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Old 11-06-2010, 07:36 PM   #76
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VEry noice build ther.
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Old 03-06-2011, 03:53 PM   #77
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No updates since June of 2009??? Come on John, I need updates. Fill me in!
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:07 PM   #78
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Not much has really changed from then to now.

I put on some bigger front brakes (11.25 960 rotors, Mazda RX7 calipers, Josh's adapter):


It laid down 304 whp/29someting tq at SE 9.0 (no pics of the dyno charts, should have snapped one from the screen).

Phase 2.0 is taking shape currently.
- Nathan 16V intake
- Kenny is porting a new 16V head
- different cams of some sort and solid lifters
- MS1 V2.2 is making way for MS3 - MS3X (MS3X is a daughter card for MS3 with a ridiculous number of outputs: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/hardw...ml#wiring-ms3x )
- LH 2.4 crank sensor and distributor are coming out, to be replaced with Josh's DSM CAS adapter
- Still up in the air, but something needs to happen with the flywheel and clutch. The Clutchnet red PP and Kevlar T5 disc seems to be at the end of its rope at 300 hp, and with the occasional dished flywheel explosion happening I'd like something safer. And lighter. And I won't need sensor holes any more.

That's about as much money as I want to toss at it this spring. Next year I'll do something with the log exhaust manifold and chinaBay GT30R.
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:13 PM   #79
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Cool cool. How much boost on the dyno pulls? Curves would've been nice, but hey. There's always this year.

Sounds like the new version is going to be super bad ass. Not that the original wasn't.

How's the PV mount holding up, still just using one of those and a diesel mount on the passenger side? Nothing else helping keep the engine stable? Chinabay turbo's still in good shape after a year and a half and how many miles?

Regarding the flywheel, I hear ya. Just don't do any WOT shifting or abuse it off the line and it should be ok as long as it's not slipping.
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:21 PM   #80
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what is wrong with one of RSI's lightened flat flywheels?
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Old 03-06-2011, 06:39 PM   #81
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I really like tis car, John.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 03-06-2011, 06:42 PM   #82
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The dyno pull was in the low 20's, 22, 24 psi, somewhere in there.

PV/diesel mounts are still fine, but I've had a ratchet strap on it the whole time. There's just no way rubber mounts can survive those narrow angled 240 bracket positioning without a 3rd point of support to help handle the torque.

Chinabay turbo is fine, it's probably been around 15K miles, more or less?

Clutch just isn't quite up to the task of clamping down on a spinning clutch disc and hauling it down to speed against the 300 hp. It doesn't slip once engaged, but I've been having to be a little more careful and slow on the shifts under power to make sure the clutch is settled before stepping on the gas again. I tried flat shifting it once, got lots of slip, and stopped that right away. That'll just lead to a dead clutch disc right away at best, and an exploded flywheel at worst.

I'm still pondering the options on the flywheel/clutch thing. I was hoping something would come of the steel flywheel thread, but so far nada.
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Old 03-06-2011, 06:44 PM   #83
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I tried their flywheel....lost to much low end torque. I had to pedal it way to much off idle and letting the clutch out. I really like just the stock flat wheel.

Intakes are coming shortly......my cars almost out of the garage. I have lots of parts prebuilt for them too.
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Old 03-06-2011, 06:56 PM   #84
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How many lbs are the stock flat flywheels? I think the dished's something like 29 lbs. Oof.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:02 PM   #85
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I weighed them.....just over 18lbs to rsi's 13
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:04 PM   #86
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My RSI one was 15.5lbs. Slightly more weight/inertia does help getting off the line and smooth the car out, overall, I'm sure. The lighter stuff is better suited for a more track oriented car.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:26 PM   #87
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And I was getting myself psyched up for something steel and multiplate ($$$$). I guess I really don't need it, though. What's a good 400 hp clutch for the flat flywheel?
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:28 PM   #88
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I'm using a dual diaphram and organic disc from clutchnet. Still stock 215mm and holding fine. Pp is a little stiff....but nothing bad. If I remember right mine said 13.5lbs.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:35 PM   #89
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Oh yeah, and some other parts going on this go around I forgot to mention:
- Toyota COP's (should be easy as pie with MS3X)
- Josh's steel keyed 16V timing gear (a little peace of mind for the valves)
- Aluminum underdrive pulley (special height to accomodate B230 accessories when stacked on top of a wider 16V timing gear)
- finally found the blue kevlar timing belt from the group buy, it had been hiding in plain sight for months. (derp)
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:36 PM   #90
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Quote:
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And I was getting myself psyched up for something steel and multiplate ($$$$). I guess I really don't need it, though. What's a good 400 hp clutch for the flat flywheel?
The dual diaphragm/stock 2.3 mustang disk holds 430ftlb in my 242. It feels a little "soft" on the 1-2 shift on slicks but that may be tire squirm playing with my senses.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:41 PM   #91
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Sounds like that's what I need to do. Mildly lightened flat flywheel, dual diaphragm pressure plate, mustang disc.

Up next - I break the rear axle! Heh, although I'll probably avoid that by keeping street tires on it. And wooooorking for that 1.9 60' time.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:59 PM   #92
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Quote:
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Up next - I break the rear axle! Heh, although I'll probably avoid that by keeping street tires on it. And wooooorking for that 1.9 60' time.
I cut low 1.6s in the 242 and am still on the original rearend/moded g80. Don't go out of your way to abuse it and it should last you quite a few passes.
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:13 PM   #93
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I've got a G80 in it, but frankly I can't really tell that it's doing much. I need to pull it out, do the flyweight mod (don't know why I didn't when I first put it in), and inspect the clutch discs. On slithery rainy wet roads it will still spin one tire.
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:16 PM   #94
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do a massive burnout, you will know right away if it's doing much. i can tell the g80 is back there on all of my cars. in some cases it even gets stuck and hops around corners until i go reverse-forward a few times.
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:16 PM   #95
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My g80 is quite noticeable. With the open diff it stays straight, with the g80 you can feel it lock and want to get sideways. Does not make a huge difference in traction but its way more fun and the diff does not break.
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:06 PM   #96
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how did you get the 850 Tb to the b230 intake?
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:27 PM   #97
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Quote:
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how did you get the 850 Tb to the b230 intake?
Sort of a minor hack. The engine was in the car and I was getting tired of little crap issues popping up and delaying it from being complete and running. With the adapter on the head, the 8V throttle body was still just a little too close for comfort to the brake master cylinder. Far better than it would have been with the 16V manifold, but still, no room for an elbow.





So I needed an inch or two more room. And I probably needed a bigger throttle anyhow. So off to the junkyard and got an N/A 850 throttle body (bigger than the turbo 850, and bigger is better, surely ). And held it up to the 240 manifold. 2 of the holes in the TB - in the right spots. Matched up to 2 of the 3 240 studs. Other stud - waaaaay off. So I removed that one. Needed to add two more studs to the intake, but one spot was blocked by something, I forget what. The other bolt hole in the TB faced a nice vertical (but fairly thin) section of the plenum, so I drilled a hole, fit a bolt through, and sealed it in place with (TB classic) some JB Weld.

So it's a bit shade tree hackish - on with 3 bolts, one of them kludged on. But it's worked perfectly for 2 years so far.


Oh, almost forgot to mention, I had to open up the hole in the 8V manifold to make it match the TB's size - the throttle plate had no room to open otherwise...
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:53 PM   #98
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nice im trying to decided if a 3inch tb will be worth my time or not...
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Old 03-06-2011, 10:14 PM   #99
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Well, it was (psychologically) nice to not have to have an entire intake system from turbo to TB be 3", then neck down to a smaller TB. Now it's all 3". And it mounts a real TPS naturally. I don't really think it's the bottleneck on most cars, though.

Forgot - the 850 throttle arm (in the last picture) went *right* in front of one of the vac line fittings, so I had to block that off and not use it, routed whatever went there to one of the other ports.
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:08 PM   #100
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Parts are starting to gather:

MS3X and pigtails:


VW solid lifters, Ford valve springs, keepers:


Reground cams:



B230/16V underdrive pulley, steel timing 16V timing gear with key, Kevlar t-belt:


Josh's DSM CAS adaptor, gruncy CAS that needs to be cleaned, hi-def sensor wheel, Toyota COP's:

Last edited by JohnMc; 03-11-2011 at 12:50 PM..
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