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Old 07-07-2011, 12:21 AM   #126
Texas240
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saved finally... "hitting forehead with palm of hand"

And I'll take that head off your hands and the 8v-16v exhaust adapter
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Old 07-07-2011, 01:33 PM   #127
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John, if you are having trouble finding lash caps affordably, give Fidel a pm.
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Old 07-08-2011, 12:03 AM   #128
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OK, got shamed into working on the car this evening. Really, it was just pouring outside, nothing better to do.

Got lazy and didn't go under the car to jack the trans up, I just pulled off the longest studs on the head (the center 5 were too short to get two nuts on for removal), bashed a seam on the firewall over for about an inch's span, and had *just* enough room to get that upper head section off.

Pistons look great, cylinder walls look great. Looks like a tiny speck of metal (aluminum?) got into #1 at some point, there are a handful (literally, 4 or 5) tiny, tiny pock marks in the piston. Luckily it was small and made its way on out before doing any real harm.

Now - to wait for the lash caps and do the valve shimming on the bench, or go ahead and install the head and cam carrier now. I'm guessing the install - it's not that hard to shim on the car.
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Old 07-08-2011, 12:03 AM   #129
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Quote:
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saved finally... "hitting forehead with palm of hand"

And I'll take that head off your hands and the 8v-16v exhaust adapter
You need a head? And there's no exhaust adapter - it's on the intake side. The log manifold is native 16V flanged.
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Old 07-08-2011, 12:08 AM   #130
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Your timing belt looks broken! Can you test fit the head and istall the intake. Im curious how badly the intake hit the power steering resavoir and if the pump can be lowered for other members cars.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:02 AM   #131
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Broken timing belt, is that a problem??? Heh, I just slid it off the cam gears and let it flop. I've got a spiffy blue kevlar belt to go on it when it goes back together, with a steel keyed timing gear and a spiffy underdrive pulley that's spaced to account for a 16V timing gear on a B230.

I sort of test fit the intake before I took the head off - it hit the dipstick tube, the A/C return line, and the reservoir lid.

- dipstick tube - just needs to be bent over some more.

- A/C return line - I was planning on re-routing that anyhow - instead of draping over the motor, running it forward from the compressor , around the front of the radiator, relocating the filter/drier/receiver/accumulator/whatever that big silver can is to the RF corner of the engine bay to get it away from the downpipe area, then running a line through the strut tower gap back to the evaporator outlet. But in any case, I'd need to remove the line as it currently sits to get the intake to set down any further.

- Power steering reservoir - with the manifold sitting on the dipstick tube and A/C line, it was an inch or two from sitting in the proper place - but it looks as though the throttle body will be *right* on top of the lid, if it doesn't actually touch it (which it might). Thus eliminating the ability to add power steering fluid. Not that I've ever needed to add power steering fluid the whole time I've had the car (scratch that - when I rebuilt the motor I had taken it off and rained it, and refilled it), but still not a good plan. I'm just planning on going by the PnP and getting a remote reservoir style pump and sticking the reservoir over on the side where the battery used to be.

I might bring the battery back up to the front from the butt cheek too, since I got the tiny, tiny Braille battery there's not much of a reason to have it in the back any more.

I can take that A/C line off, bend the dipstick tube, set the lower head back on, and show you the fit vs. the reservoir for you though.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:19 AM   #132
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Dang John, taking it yet again to the next level. Sonofa. Do work. Hopefully we'll get a chance to meet up so I can check the beast out with all the new go fast bits.
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:07 AM   #133
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sam might trade you power steering setups, he has the reservoir style and wants the one you've got.
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:23 PM   #134
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Quote:
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You need a head? And there's no exhaust adapter - it's on the intake side. The log manifold is native 16V flanged.
Be nice to have another for the next project down the road
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Old 07-08-2011, 01:42 PM   #135
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I'll probably get around to making a FS thread with the head, the intake, and the short distributor at some point. A nice bolt on for a 240.

I guess the log mani too, it's got the larger runners, but it's a log. With a T28 flange on it.

I'm still not sure if I want to stick that GT3076R knockoff back on or not. I'm sort of out of 'mad money' to spend on it for now, I might leave a nicer turbo for next year. I've still got the whole flywheel (JohnV) and pressure plate situation (Saab 9000/Spec?) to deal with after I get the engine running. I have a T3-T28 adapter sitting in a box somewhere. Or maybe a $150 eBay T3, but what size? I'm somewhat clueless when it comes to sizing a turbo.
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:51 PM   #136
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Intake mani fit with the integral reservoir:



It's not able to sit down quite all the way - it's resting on the cap.

Also I'm starting to have my doubts on the exhaust manifold. At the very least the WG pipe will have to go:


Way too snug on the evaporator pipes - even with the receiver drier out of the way. Also, I don't think I have room for the compressor outlet piping, it needs to go up, but it's underneath the front half of that pretty rams horn pattern. Hmmmm.......
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:52 PM   #137
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Intake mani fit with the integral reservoir:



It's not able to sit down quite all the way - it's resting on the cap.

Also I'm starting to have my doubts on the exhaust manifold. At the very least the WG pipe will have to go:


Way too snug on the evaporator pipes - even with the receiver drier out of the way. Also, I don't think I have room for the compressor outlet piping, it needs to go up, but it's underneath the front half of that pretty rams horn pattern. Hmmmm.......
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:54 PM   #138
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hmm, time to flip the intercooler? get an external reservoir setup mang
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:56 PM   #139
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Oh, and a pic of the little Braille battery hanging out in the butt cheek. It made more sense to put the battery there when it was a 40 lb lead chunk (it made a noticeable improvement in open-diff launches - went from 90% right tire fire to more like 50/50, with more double lines), but I might as well put it back up front now that it weighs 10 lbs or something close.

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Old 07-08-2011, 07:59 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNAsEqUeNcE View Post
hmm, time to flip the intercooler? get an external reservoir setup mang
Yeah, I was going to hit the PnP this weekend to get a remote reservoir pump (Kenny - I'll def hang onto my internal one if Sam needs it).

My log manifold had been sounding a little chuffly again, I assumed it was another manifold gasket gone bad, but no, it was my crappy welding on the output flange. Cracked a good percentage of the radius where it's welded to the log. I don't think my crappy cheap MIG has enough power to adequately weld heavy metal like that.
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:04 PM   #141
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nope. Mig only puts the heat on that small area. you need something like a Tig and some thick welding rod to make it work. A higher amperage mig might work just fine, but I would'nt risk it (but I have access to that stuff anyway thankfully so)
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Old 07-08-2011, 09:59 PM   #142
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MIght just reweld the bugger and put it back on, revisit the whole exhaust side of the engine next year...
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:01 PM   #143
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I dunno man, that surge sounded nasty.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:11 PM   #144
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Thanks for the pics John......is there anyway to lower the PS pump by rebuilding the mount?
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:31 PM   #145
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Quote:
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Thanks for the pics John......is there anyway to lower the PS pump by rebuilding the mount?
not really. it sits on top of a 'shelf'. Easiest thing to do is convert to the remote reservoir pump, shouldn't be that much of a hassle (I mean hey.. them's the knocks ;) ), both are pretty common in the jy's.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:46 PM   #146
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Quote:
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nope. Mig only puts the heat on that small area. you need something like a Tig and some thick welding rod to make it work. A higher amperage mig might work just fine, but I would'nt risk it (but I have access to that stuff anyway thankfully so)
I feel differently about that. My mig penetrates just dandy and then some. Well hell, welds through 1/2" steel just fine.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:51 PM   #147
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not really. it sits on top of a 'shelf'. Easiest thing to do is convert to the remote reservoir pump, shouldn't be that much of a hassle (I mean hey.. them's the knocks ;) ), both are pretty common in the jy's.
I saw them all over the place last time. I'm going tomorrow, now suitable jinxed I won't see a single one.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:58 PM   #148
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Quote:
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I feel differently about that. My mig penetrates just dandy and then some. Well hell, welds through 1/2" steel just fine.
Mine's some cheap Campbell Hausfeld. It's done a fine job of keeping the PV in one piece over the years, it can do sheet metal. But headers, maybe a little over it's pay rate. Although it did hang together for 2 years.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:58 PM   #149
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I only ask, because this is a problem on an 8v motor as well. And I have 2 members that want to keep the integral resvoir pump. So Im being sent a setup to either redesign a couple one off plenums, or lower the pump if theres room to whats under it.
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Old 07-08-2011, 11:13 PM   #150
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I think there's a *little* bit of room under there before it would hit the a/c compressor. But you'd need a fair amount of room to actually make the lid removable - it has that dipstick attachment underneath.
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