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Old 09-11-2011, 10:03 PM   #201
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:03 PM   #202
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Drove it around for a while with autotune on (it seems to actually work properly in Tunerstudio, it never worked right in Megatune). After a little bit I noticed that the MAP never went below about 80. I hadn't noticed that while doing 'idle tuning' in the garage, because it idles at about that KPa (ahem), but let off on the throttle and the gauge showed lots of vac, the MAP readout stuck around .8. Went back home and found a loose fitting on the manifold for the MS map line. Fixed it - yes, now it reads lower KPa's.

Not running that bad now. I drove it for about 20 minutes, there are still some nasty lean spots in my map. Might as well have been starting out with a scratch map as starting out with the map from the stock head/cam. The old head seemed to have a very flat VE curve, the new setup drops off like a cliff at low rpms (sort of expected) and there's a considerable degree of slope between there and high RPM's.

I barely got into boost, I revved to about 5000, at the most. Got to get rid of those scurry lean spots first.
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:33 PM   #203
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Fixed the vac line, drove it about 50 miles yesterday, getting the fuel map in shape. Feels good, you can tell the pwoer has moved on up the RPM range. And, well, I might not be working the 7K+ RPM range until I get around to replacing the dogdish flywheel with the new SoopAr Bitching 15 lb JohnV steel guy.

One worrisome development - was only about 80, 85 degrees yesterday. I took it on the highway for some easy 65-75 mph cruising, and went up some long hills (on 44, just south of St. L county). And the temp gauge jumped up a little. Did it on several of the hills, I had to turn on the heat. MS's temp gauge confirmed, running up to 215, 225 degrees. This was at highway speeds, so fan running or not (it was) shuoldn't matter. Didn't have the belly pan on though. Not sure why that is happening. I might have to check the coolant system for CO. Hope it's not a HG leak. Shouldn't be a major deal to pull it and check if it seems to be the case. Might just be something a bit off with the timing too?
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:39 PM   #204
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could be timing (low timing). how's the t-stat?
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:46 PM   #205
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T-stat is a fairly new (used 6 months?) low temp version - 170 degrees, was working fine prior to having it apart for a month and a half.

I'll re-verify timing tonight, I spent a while making sure it seemed OK on Saturday.

Cameron - I tried my timing light ont he low tension wire bundle going to COP #1 - and it worked. It simply never occured to me to even try it. Certainly a lot easier than messing around with a 'jumper' spark plug wire.
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:22 PM   #206
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Cameron - I tried my timing light ont he low tension wire bundle going to COP #1 - and it worked. It simply never occured to me to even try it. Certainly a lot easier than messing around with a 'jumper' spark plug wire.
Sweet - glad to hear it
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:16 PM   #207
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Low timing you say? as in not enough advance?
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Old 09-14-2011, 12:30 AM   #208
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do you mind taking a detour to pick me up in a month?
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:06 AM   #209
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You mean Brett, hopefully. That would be one gigantic detour for me.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:47 PM   #210
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you mean brett, hopefully. That would be one gigantic detour for me.
no i do not!!!!!! Mean brett
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:54 PM   #211
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Boost control doesn't seem to be working. Which is OK for the moment, it feels pretty good at 8 psi.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:59 PM   #212
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Excellent work.
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Old 09-16-2011, 03:49 PM   #213
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Got boost control working. At first I was a bit WTF, because it did go up - but only to about 15 psi. And rather mushily and slowly. Pulled over - ahah - the BOV hose popped off. I got a bunch of those slim hard plastic vac lines from various whiteblock cars in the JY, with the little rubber connectors on the end, I guess they're not really holding that well without hose clamps, I need to redo that.

But with the BOV hooked back up (it needs manifold pressure to hold it shut against boost pressure) yahoo - it hit 20 - 22 psi, about what I had it set to go to. Only did the a few times.

So far it doesn't particularly *feel* fast, because what feels fast is torque. It might actually *be* faster though, since it's making that torque higher up in the RPM range. I've been mostly keeping it under 7000 rpm so far though, I don't want to exploderize my 32 lb dog dish flywheel, I need to start working on getting a Saab 9000 pressure plate and 9.5" T5 splined disc, and putting that 15 lb JohnV steel flywheel in.
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Old 09-16-2011, 03:49 PM   #214
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dupes for greater post countage!
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Old 09-16-2011, 04:15 PM   #215
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I've been mostly keeping it under 7000 rpm so far though, I don't want to exploderize my 32 lb dog dish flywheel, I need to start working on getting a Saab 9000 pressure plate and 9.5" T5 splined disc, and putting that 15 lb JohnV steel flywheel in.
Only badly lightened dog dishes asplode. If it's bog standard you will be a-ok as long as long as you use a full faced clutch disc not a pucked racing one that creates hot spots and cracks the **** out of iron.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 09-16-2011, 04:24 PM   #216
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It's certainly not bog-standard, I think stock clutches handle 220 - 230 hp at the most?

It's got a full-faced Kevlar Clutchnet disc in it now. I don't think it's too harsh.

I'm still not going to rev the 32 lb dog dish to 8000.

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Old 09-17-2011, 07:07 PM   #217
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It's certainly not bog-standard, I think stock clutches handle 220 - 230 hp at the most?

It's got a full-faced Kevlar Clutchnet disc in it now. I don't think it's too harsh.

I'm still not going to rev the 32 lb dog dish to 8000.
Im still running that Volvo Special Flywheel w/ a 6 puck metal master spec clutch
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:04 AM   #218
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It's certainly not bog-standard, I think stock clutches handle 220 - 230 hp at the most?

It's got a full-faced Kevlar Clutchnet disc in it now. I don't think it's too harsh.

I'm still not going to rev the 32 lb dog dish to 8000.
Probably all wasted effort to run a heavy one that fast. Stock 740 turbo clutches handle more than enough power to kill M46s so I'm guessing 260+ ft-lbs of torque.

In any case, you can see the reason Simon's flywheel exploded (I'm too lazy to look for the picture) because of the sharp angles that the raised edge had been cut at, leaving "pedestals" of material. Now I'm no fluid mechanics master but I would say that sharp edges/corners/angles create stress points in solid metal structures

Safest means of testing would be revving the living piss out of one of these and seeing what kinds of angular velocity/acceleration will kill the thing.

Still, the extra surface area is a nice bonus over a flat flywheel.
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:51 PM   #219
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Some quick work on the JohnV flywheel.

Found a brand new Volvo flywheel gear on eBay, $45 shipped. I went to the PnP a couple of times, but never saw a Volvo with the trans pulled, and it's not worth the effort to pull one just for the ring gear. Most other places I saw them seemed pretty pricey though.


Into the oven it goes! Wife was skeptical (I've done this with other things and made oily smells), but this was new, not stinky at all. Set the oven to 550 degrees.


I put the flywheel in the deep freeze this morning. Chilling out at slightly below 0 degrees F with the frozen foods and garden veggies.


Set myself up a little work area outside. Some boards to set the flywheel on. Some welding gloves to handle the hot/cold objects, and an assortment of hammers (from tap to WHAP!) if needed.


First up - the frosty flywheel. It's heavier, will change temp less while I get the gear.


After 10 minutes or so (after the oven hit 550), it's ready. And smells faintly of burnt pizza?


And!!!! And.... and... somewhat of a anticlimactic mating of gear and flywheel. I was envisioning a snug fit, and some frantic tapping as the ring gear quickly contracted down onto the frigid flywheel. But the thing just slipped right on. Plenty of clearance. Spun it around a little just to make sure it was fully seated. It was.


After about 20 seconds, the flywheel sucked enough heat out of the ring gear to lock it into place.


OK, that last picture sucks, I'm no Ansel Adams.

But deep freeze and 550 degrees - apparently a slight bit of overkill. But better than it shrinking on an locking into place before you get it tapped all the way on.
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:18 PM   #220
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That is so awesome.
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:04 PM   #221
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Awesome prep overkill!
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:49 PM   #222
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Nice work on the ring gear. i remember heating my coil sleeves and the wife coming home.....she had that sniff, sniff look and just like you Im sure....that awful glare!
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:46 PM   #223
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now im hungry for some pizza... Interesting, round flywheel in Freezer, Pizza flavor ring gear in oven and frozen pizza in freezer.

THESE ARE SIGNS FROM VOLVO.. or im going crazy again
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Old 10-01-2011, 02:10 PM   #224
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Dupe post!!! No wai!!!

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Old 10-01-2011, 02:10 PM   #225
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No food involved this morning, just about an hour of deconstruction. T5's come out so much more easily than Volvo transmissions, for the sole reason that you can remove the 4 bolts holding it to the bellhousing adapter. Plus it's a lot lighter.

Car up in the air on 4 jack stands.


Boring interlude where I take stuff apart...

Cut to the chase. I know it's been slipping a little under certain circumstances - not really under full throttle, but if I get on the gas a little too soon in a shift. Anyhow, the flywheel shows some abuse. Not the ULTRA SKURRY long cracks that meant my feet were about to get chopped up, but lots of very small surface checking, and a nice blue color.


Pressure plate (red Clutchnet) shows some bluing, but no surface cracking:


Kevlar CN disc still looks fairly decent. It's got some wear on it, but it's not fried or chewed up really:



Nice to see the RMS still staying pretty dry.

Oh, and took the opportunity to take the crank sensor and bracket out too.

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