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Old 11-23-2010, 05:30 PM   #26
jungledorifuto
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annnd yes more detail on front/rear suspension you're running. I smell drifting
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:23 PM   #27
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5x115,he redrilled the hubs as he stated. looks like we have a decent welder/fab guy on our hands.. because it's still a cheap build!! FTW
Ah, makes more sense now, I originally read that as the brake rotors being redrilled to 5X108
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:27 PM   #28
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Nice work. The crossmember looks damn nice.
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Old 11-23-2010, 07:45 PM   #29
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Looks like you're doing it right. Why did you bush those arms off the crossmember?
Because leaf spring bushings are better and cheaper than motor mounts, and solid is a bit painful in a street car?
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:27 PM   #30
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Looks good! This thing will be a beast! But those brakes don't look that much bigger?
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:01 AM   #31
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Impressive work!! Look forward to seeing the finished product
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:03 AM   #32
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Quote:
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Looks good! This thing will be a beast! But those brakes don't look that much bigger?
That much bigger than what? I believe they're 13 inch rotors.


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Awesome. The pan looks a bit of a hazard with how low it is.
I think he's planning on shortening the pan. In the end, it won't hang lower than the crossmember.


55superbeetle is the guy who built my dad's Subaru WRX powered 914. This Volvo is going to be awesome.
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:53 AM   #33
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Thanks guys, I really didnt expect this reaction to it. It really is just going to be a slammed pile with a V8 drivetrain. I'm not really building it to do anything great, just want a fast, fun street car that my wife can drive too. For the suspension I used saab inserts, shortened the strut tubes, and slid on some old carrera sleeves my buddy let me have. I will figure out the rear when I get there but I see cut springs in my future.

As Thomas said the pan is going to get chopped so its a 1/4" higher than the cross member. I'm going to add kickouts so it will still hold the same amount of oil. As stated the bushings are just a cheap alternative to to buying engine mounts especially since I stole them from my friends rotting camaro project...

I finished up narrowing the ford rear tonight. After dickin around trying to figure out the best way to do it and even calling a few rear end shops I just decided to make it happen the free way. I just wacked a section out at the end of the tube, beveled it, and then made 3 tig passes around it. I really wanted to use a mandrel to keep it all straight but I did the best I could with a tape measure and a straight edge. I'm going to pick n pull this weekend to get another short axle and then I can put it back together. I was also able to borrow a friends plasma cutter so I will make quick work of transfering all the volvo brackets over.






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Old 11-24-2010, 04:29 AM   #34
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Hell yeah, making it happen!


That rear end is a perfect choice. It's way stronger than the Volvo one, has disk brakes stock, LSD stock, and after narrowing the long side (the diff is not centered in the rear end, so one axle tube is longer than the other) you end up with a slightly wider track than the stock Volvo rear end. Which eliminates the need for spacers on the back to get the wheels to sit right. Very smart!
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Old 11-24-2010, 08:20 AM   #35
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The rotors and discs look the same as a 940 front, without an open spoke wheel to compare it with, I can't really say otherwise. Why would a non SRT charger have 13inch brakes though? Seems overkill.
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Old 11-24-2010, 12:31 PM   #36
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The rotors and discs look the same as a 940 front, without an open spoke wheel to compare it with, I can't really say otherwise. Why would a non SRT charger have 13inch brakes though? Seems overkill.
Probably because the cars are really heavy. And maybe because Dodge knows people are going to put 150lb. 26" wheels on them, and so they need big brakes to slow all the rotating mass! haha I did a quick google search and came up with two rotor diamters, 12.6 or 13.6 inch for the R/T. That's probably why these cars came with those 17 inch steel wheels. Anything smaller wouldn't clear the calipers.
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Old 11-24-2010, 05:42 PM   #37
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sweet build, im assuming you couldnt get the engine any higher without chopping the transmission tunnel? just going to limit your slamage a little with the dropped cross member. those sure are some pretty welds.
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Old 11-24-2010, 07:02 PM   #38
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Yeah, most new large RWD cars run 12" rotors and 16" wheels on the standard spec brakes, so it does make sense, it's odd how they don't look that big though! That being said, the brakes that size on Commodores and Falcons aren't known for being super performance quality brakes unless you retro fit them to an old car that weighs a bit less, which doesn't make much sense as they aren't really a performance brake, just a good standard duty brake, much like putting 940 jumbo's on a 740.
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:42 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Volvo244GLE View Post
sweet build, im assuming you couldnt get the engine any higher without chopping the transmission tunnel? just going to limit your slamage a little with the dropped cross member. those sure are some pretty welds.
Yea thats pretty much what set the engine height. I could have made a new tunnel and got it up higher or made a complete new oil pan but I'm trying not to reinvent the wheel with this project.

Thanks for the weld compliment, I'm decent but still not great.

Last edited by 55superbeetle; 11-26-2010 at 07:06 PM..
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:54 PM   #40
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Looks excellent, I'm glad to see that this car is getting some much deserved attention. Props for getting s**t done.
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Old 11-28-2010, 01:44 AM   #41
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Looks excellent, I'm glad to see that this car is getting some much deserved attention. Props for getting s**t done.
Thanks dude, I'm just glad I got a solid car to build off of!

Got the rear end all done, just need te reassemble and put it back in the car. Who has the best deal for adjustable torque arms?




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Old 11-28-2010, 02:07 AM   #42
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Thanks dude, I'm just glad I got a solid car to build off of!

Got the rear end all done, just need te reassemble and put it back in the car. Who has the best deal for adjustable torque arms?
You do via welding on some threads, but IPD sells them premade(and with poly).
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Old 11-28-2010, 02:19 AM   #43
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Believe me I thought about that but the bushings are wasted and the cost of replacements makes it cost prohibitive. I guess I could just get some swaged rods and 5/8 heims.
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Old 11-28-2010, 03:07 AM   #44
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with all this, why not a 4spd auto so you can have some mileage in your new family car/baby hauler? BTW: If you are the guy I think you are, you have a very nice Subaru-powered 914 in the family, don't you? Or is that your buddy's father's car? In any case, looks like a clean crossmember setup. How much lower will this car sit in front/back when you are thru? As others have said, please post lots of pics
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Old 11-28-2010, 03:12 AM   #45
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Will this car have a/c?
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Old 11-28-2010, 10:17 AM   #46
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If you go Heim, do please inform me of the cost out of curiosity?
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:46 PM   #47
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Nice build! These cars are fun to daily with a v8. What tire are you using in the rear?

The ipd torque arms are kind of lame because they are only adjustable on one side and kind of crude. I would build my own if I were you. There are a couple other guys that build some if you want to make it easy.

Could you be a pal and tell me how much room you have from the front of the cylinder head to the front grill?
Thanks!
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Old 11-29-2010, 03:19 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by 55superbeetle View Post
Believe me I thought about that but the bushings are wasted and the cost of replacements makes it cost prohibitive. I guess I could just get some swaged rods and 5/8 heims.
http://www.yoshifab.com/store/index....od&productId=4

http://www.kaplhenke.com/index.php?o...d=41&Itemid=32

I added up the cost of making my own its around 100 bucks without the spacers for the heim joints. And idk how i would make those.

Josh's (yoshifab) are an awesome deal. I personally know two people running them and love them. They are light too.
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Old 11-30-2010, 01:55 AM   #49
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Got the raer end all put back together and installed. Came out pretty good and the pinion angle is right where it needs to be even with the stock torque rods.

Quote:
with all this, why not a 4spd auto so you can have some mileage in your new family car/baby hauler? BTW: If you are the guy I think you are, you have a very nice Subaru-powered 914 in the family, don't you? Or is that your buddy's father's car? In any case, looks like a clean crossmember setup. How much lower will this car sit in front/back when you are thru? As others have said, please post lots of pics
A four speed would have been really nice but just wasnt going to happen for my horsepower and budget goals. The only cheap option would have been a 4L80E but they are HUGE and would have required the use of a stock computer. Also the cost of a decent converter for it would have broke the bank. I got the built th400 for 400 bucks so it fit my goals.

I built the 914 for my friends father, by far the best project I have been a part of!

Quote:
Will this car have a/c?
Would be nice but no, maybe in the future.

Pics,



Some crappy pics of measurements for Bigbegum69,



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Old 11-30-2010, 12:18 PM   #50
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I'm going to come over with my fancy new camera and take some fancy pictures this weekend. That is, if I can figure out how to use it.

Can't wait to see the rear wheels bolted up. I'm dying to see how they sit against the fender lips.
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