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Old 11-09-2017, 07:36 AM   #326
DET17
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Working to wrap up the B21EFI intake. I was short one single vacuum connection port (I will detail what goes WHERE later), and decided to drill & tap 1/8-27 NPT in the blank boss seen in this picture.... for the turbo boost gauge. Clamped to my 35 year old work bench and ready:



The NPT taps typically require a tapered reamer so they can tap easier. I don't own those, but learned that 1/8 can be drilled with a Q drill. $9 later from Fastenal and we drill the tap hole (I used progressive sizes up, in an attempt to keep it "straight" by hand). I used the drill & tap lubricant shown. This location is thick, more than 12mm / 1/2" wall of the intake. Drilled:



Machinist forums list two suggestions for tapping NPT. First, when done proper, you should be able to finger thread 3~4 threads by hand. Next, when the tap is at the proper depth, you should have 6~7 threads of the TAP showing. Tricky work.... making tapered threads in a straight hole. Go SLOW and keep backing the tap to clean the threads cut.... I stopped every 1/4 turn max. The finished threaded hole:



and the installed fitting for my boost gauge (it "feeds" in that direction, most logical source):



Since this is a DD, I'm not spending the coin for powder coat. After a bit of study on the web, I decided to prime & paint the intake with self etching primer (recommended for Aluminium) and "cast aluminum" paint. I can provide PNs to anyone who is interested. This finish has good recommendations across all breeds of intakes.





Next I'll do the FINAL install of all vacuum connection fittings, and finalize the throttle linkage "crank arm & linkage". Looking forward to having this damn thing installed for good.
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Old 11-11-2017, 10:01 PM   #327
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Default 3" Downpipe extension & CAT

Decided to fire up the MIG and stay with it today..... I previously had the 3"DP roughed out with help of a buddy, who TIG welded the stainless flex pipe to the rigid aluminized steel DP. I don't have a TIG yet, and this guy can flat weld, so I farmed out the first step to him.

I purchased a Walker 3" High flow CAT previously, and needed to join it to the DP with a 3" V-band flange & clamp setup. I also need a new stainless bung installed for the AEM wideband sensor. I took some careful dims under the car, so I could size the 3" DP extension. I also wanted to locate the CAT under the factory heat shield, as much as possible, to make use of what was there and keep from baking my carpeting. After a couple rounds of measurements, I fired up the Metabo cutoff wheel and squared off an eleven inch piece of JEGS aluminized 1/16" wall steel exhaust pipe.

To get the V-band flanges over this 3" exhaust pipe, I had to buff off the aluminized coating on the pipe, and then tap the flanges onto the steel pipe. Once the MIG was dialed in, I welded the V-band flanges, one to the DP extension, and the other to the CAT inlet pipe.

Here is the DP extension with CAT roughed into position:





Well I'm glad now for the flex pipe extension... the 3" DP was slightly off target on the route of the exhaust pipe. You can see the slight angle change to hit to original path of the exhaust:



This last pic shows the original exhaust mount which originates near the AW71 rear mount. I don't think I'm going to use that one, as it doesn't seem substantial enough for the weight of the 3 inch DP and mating pipes with CAT. I'm considering to use one of the crossmember bolts to support a custom exhaust mount. I'll have to dimension this carefully, and next round of exhaust work I should have the custom mount to carry the weight of the CAT.

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Old 11-20-2017, 10:48 PM   #328
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Default AC condenser install

While my original '92 AC condenser didn't have any leaks in it, there was accumulated damage & blockage caused by thousands of gravel & sand bits. I searched for awhile for NOS, but couldn't locate any. I finally decided to purchase a NISSEN replacement #94165.... not an ideal solution (Taiwan), but an acceptable solution. Here is the front view of the nice new condenser installed:



The unit took some persuasion to get installed. The do88 intercooler is considerably thicker than the original unit. With the AC condenser installing back into the factory spot, I was worried there was going to be a space collision. There WAS, but I was able to overcome it.

The pass. side NISSENs mount had to be flattened (vice and hammer) so to project the mounting pin further aft. The OE setup has a W-fold in the steel mount for rigidity..... however this can't be retained and reach the original mounting holes. Have a look at these mounts, and you will see the attachment plate screw heads are in direct contact with the do88 IC.

Here is the reworked pass. side mount, and screw collisions:





Here see the drivers side mount, and screw heads in contact:



The top of the do88 IC also needed drilled to create the attachment points to the radiator. This wasn't very difficult, as the IC is made of aluminum. I'm glad to have this bit of work behind me...... and am busy rounding up all the O-rings and other bits necessary to reassemble the AC system completely.
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:24 PM   #329
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Default 3 inch DP details

Working to wrap up the new 3inch down pipe.

While most of the TB herd is busy drilling out their 90+ intakes so they can upsize with 10mm studs to carry the DP, I don't see the need for them SO LONG as you retain the original engineered solution for support of the pipe.... the BH stud mount band clamp.

I thought about sectioning the original stainless strap and welding in a plate to increase the diameter to 3". Decided it was excessive work (considering what I've got left to do), if I could just find a band clamp of the proper size.

eBay to the rescue:



These 3" band clamps are clones of the original "Accuseal" versions. Certainly Chinese copies, but they had the same design concept as the originals. I stripped out the funky custom bolt, and tried to fit the unit. Wouldn't clear the BH stud (12mm), so I had to break out the Makita die grinder and my carbide bit. Thankfully there was quite a bit of unused area in the doubled over "hoop" portion of the clamp, so I slotted her out to the safe limit. Back into position, and this time it appears it will go. Took some tricky clamping with a pair of needle nose vice grips, but it clears that mounting stud. Found a metal 12mm flanged locknut (no NYLOCK for this application) and bolted her together.

Very pleased with the outcome.... a rock solid support of the 3" DP:







With the band support complete, I pulled the DP back out so my machinist buddy can TIG weld the last section behind the flex pipe. Once done I'll thermal tape the top section of the DP to keep the heat soak off my AC lines & filter/dryer, and will mount the rascal (hopefully) for the last time.
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Old 12-03-2017, 07:00 AM   #330
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Now that is a good fix. Do you have a link, where they sell them? Just like that.
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:27 AM   #331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beachee View Post
Now that is a good fix. Do you have a link, where they sell them? Just like that.
http://www.normaamericasds.com/brand/torca

P/Ns in the PDF, eBay search will find them for you.
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:44 AM   #332
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Quote:
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Now that is a good fix. Do you have a link, where they sell them? Just like that.
Will definitely be copy/pasting this into my car also, especially since I still need a downpipe brace. Thanks again.
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:05 AM   #333
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Thank you, very much ! :-)
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:28 AM   #334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post

While most of the TB herd is busy drilling out their 90+ intakes so they can upsize with 10mm studs to carry the DP, I don't see the need for them SO LONG as you retain the original engineered solution for support of the pipe.... the BH stud mount
If you're running the standard Mitisubishi turbo, sure its fine. If you're running a T3/T4 turbo, it is wise to upgrade the studs on manifold. Have people run turbos without upgrading studs? Yes, but it doesn't mean you should. Its very simple to do. In additional to installing larger studs, you should fabricate a band/bracket so that it mounts to bell housing. Using a flex section in the down pipe also helps relieve some stress that is put on the down pipe during normal operation. Of which you have done and it looks excellent.
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:05 PM   #335
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Looks good! I did the same thing on my 16T dp and it holds up great .
(well...mine doesn't look as good...but it works, lol.)
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:00 PM   #336
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If you're running the standard Mitisubishi turbo, sure its fine. If you're running a T3/T4 turbo, it is wise to upgrade the studs on manifold. Have people run turbos without upgrading studs? Yes, but it doesn't mean you should. Its very simple to do. In additional to installing larger studs, you should fabricate a band/bracket so that it mounts to bell housing. Using a flex section in the down pipe also helps relieve some stress that is put on the down pipe during normal operation. Of which you have done and it looks excellent.
I'm not planning to run any calcs to verify their strength; certainly the cast iron is the fuse. My TD04 turbine housing came with clearance holes for M8s, not M10. I don't know how heavy the larger turbos are and don't intend to go larger on the DD. Thanks for the 7cm flat flange housing you sold me, you can see it will go to good use!
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:12 PM   #337
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Working to wrap up the new 3inch down pipe.

While most of the TB herd is busy drilling out their 90+ intakes so they can upsize with 10mm studs to carry the DP, I don't see the need for them SO LONG as you retain the original engineered solution for support of the pipe.... the BH stud mount band clamp.

I thought about sectioning the original stainless strap and welding in a plate to increase the diameter to 3". Decided it was excessive work (considering what I've got left to do), if I could just find a band clamp of the proper size.

eBay to the rescue:



These 3" band clamps are clones of the original "Accuseal" versions. Certainly Chinese copies, but they had the same design concept as the originals. I stripped out the funky custom bolt, and tried to fit the unit. Wouldn't clear the BH stud (12mm), so I had to break out the Makita die grinder and my carbide bit. Thankfully there was quite a bit of unused area in the doubled over "hoop" portion of the clamp, so I slotted her out to the safe limit. Back into position, and this time it appears it will go. Took some tricky clamping with a pair of needle nose vice grips, but it clears that mounting stud. Found a metal 12mm flanged locknut (no NYLOCK for this application) and bolted her together.

Very pleased with the outcome.... a rock solid support of the 3" DP:







With the band support complete, I pulled the DP back out so my machinist buddy can TIG weld the last section behind the flex pipe. Once done I'll thermal tape the top section of the DP to keep the heat soak off my AC lines & filter/dryer, and will mount the rascal (hopefully) for the last time.
great idea! going to use it.
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:25 PM   #338
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So, I was trying to steal your bracket idea for your Bosch coil, and I tried to buy the misumi tall hex nuts you suggested. I found them with your part number, but I have to say what a difficult website to navigate. Eventually, it told me they do not sell to the general public, and I had to be a business. I didn't have any luck finding anything similar on Google either. Any suggestions?

Last edited by soclosenotnear; 12-12-2017 at 10:32 PM..
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Old 12-15-2017, 07:41 AM   #339
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I ordered mine via our local MOTION Industries rep. (who sells Millions a year to my company). I'd suggest going with the PN to your local FASTENAL and see if they can get them for you..... betting YES, they can.
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Old 12-23-2017, 09:15 PM   #340
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Default B21EFI Intake final install; throttle body overhaul

Time for an Xmas update on the project. The throttle body overhaul was delayed as I waited on the Volvo Webstore to deliver the throttle plate attachment screws; they have an unusual feature where they are "V'd" after install, so they will not loosen/fall out. It took 4 weeks to get these screws! I'd previously cleaned the TB in my ultrasonic bath, but waited impatiently for the parts. Here is the finished TB, assembled and ready to attach:



Many thanks to DEK2688 for the tip about this throttle body: it has the smaller TB bore for crisp response, the 4 bolt pattern like the larger 3" 960/850 NA version, and also has the hose barbs for the emission control lines to burn the fumes off the fuel tank. This TB is a little obscure.... came on a 10 valve 850 sold in the UK and Europa; none I believe reached North America. I found this one online in Lithuania, and it only took about 2 weeks to get here.

The winning combination to make this TB play nice with LH2.4 is as follows:

1. the subject 850 TB
2. a B234 throttle plate shaft & throttle plate
3. tap the M4 screws for attachment of the LH2.4 TPS to the casting
4. a K-Jet 240 TB actuation lever (which I welded to the original from the 850 TB for the stop)

This assembly points the LH2.4 TPS downward, so the stock connector will reach. Your must drill & tap the M4 threads into the casting to allow adjustment so the "click" of the TPS occurs when the throttle is closed. I'll be running new hoses to the charcoal canister, as this TB points the barbs towards the firewall. A small price to pay to take care of those fumes in the tank (my tree hugger tendencies coming thru). Here some detailed pics of the components of the hybrid TB:




I reiterate: you MUST USE the K-Jet TB crank arm, in order for proper function of the linkage with the 240 K-Jet 3 drum (or single drum) spool.

For grins, here is a comparison of the 3 inch NA TB (which can support 400 HP) and the standard 2.5" Turbo TB (which supports 305HP and has crisp throttle response.... you decide):



Fully assembled you can see the throttle actuation with the 240 K-jet spool closed, then fully actuated (to the stop):




Finally, the long awaited last install of the B21EFI intake:



With the intake finally complete, I went back to the 3 inch DP, which needed heat tape wrapping the upper section to prevent heat soak into my AC lines and the dryer/receiver. I used the DEI "titanium wrap", secured with quality Swedish hose clamps. Once the DP was insulated, I connected the previously reviewed bell housing 3" band strap and the V-band up top. Here is the final installed DP, sans O2 sensor which will be installed later:



Next - I'll finalize the custom DP hanger aft of the flex joint which I built to carry the CAT; the exhaust will be roadworthy, so once "Cheap Thrills" is running I'll drive to the local exhaust shop to get a transition pipe from the exit of the CAT to the TME pipes.
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Old 12-24-2017, 03:16 PM   #341
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Much excite. Great work. I think you made the right call going with that obscure throttle body. From the little research I've done, bigger isn't always better.

And boy, does that manifold look nice in there.
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Old 12-24-2017, 09:06 PM   #342
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The good news for any who follow.... you don't need to TIG the 4 bolt flange for the 960/850 NA throttle bodies to the B21F intake (as Nathan did to mine). I fit checked a standard B230FT TB to the original bolt 3 bolt pattern on the K-Jet NA intake, and it works just fine. With the TPS indexed downward (using the B234F parts I listed), it clears the intake just fine. I've got 3 more of the B21F intakes, in case you decide to convert.

A side benefit of the B21F intake.... there's more room to access everything below it. Starter, breather box, heater control valve..... all much easier to service.

Last edited by DET17; 12-29-2017 at 08:20 AM..
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Old 12-24-2017, 10:26 PM   #343
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Mo better kaizen....
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Old 12-24-2017, 11:49 PM   #344
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A side benefit of the B21F intake.... there's more room to access everything below it. Starter, breather box, heater control valve..... all much easier to service.
I converted my b21f intake to efi and I've done many test fits and I love the fact that it isn't cluttered anymore. Here's a pic of mine powder coated(gold of course).

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Old 01-01-2018, 11:01 PM   #345
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Default Eurosport Tuning air box install

Happy 2018! Can't wait to get this project done.......

As purchased the air box was built to mount the stock 016 AMM. I'm going to run the 012 which is the larger 3" version. I considered some options to enlarge the original hole (variable speed jig saw, dremel) and decided on the latter. After fit checking my do88 intake hose, I decided to center the new larger hole on the original. Here's the air box with the larger hole roughed in:



Carefully free handing the dremel and HD cutoff discs, I got the AMM to just slide thru the steel hole. I mark the highspots in yellow wax pencil, so to finish the hole with the 120 grit mini drum sander on the dremel:



The turbo inlet hose is 3D sized for the factory 7/9 air box location, and is too long for the custom air box & mounted 012 AMM. I carefully trimmed the hose (after measuring at least twice) using a T-bolt band clamp and brand new utility knife blade lubed with soap & water (which cuts even the 4 ply hose with ease). With hose shortened to length, it's finally time to fit check between the AMM and the Mitsu 19t:



Got this smaller K&N filter onhand that I installed just for the pics; I will be purchasing a new filter with an OAL of approx. 10inches, 6 inch element OD (the limit of what will clear the sheet metal of the air box) and a 3" mounting inside diameter:



If you decide to use K&N, they have equations on their tech pages that enable you to calculate the CFM requirements of your engine, and then the filter fabric area required based on the design flow specs. I'll detail the calcs later, when I install the actual filter which will be used (K&N or other, yet TBD).

Lastly, the front mounting details of the air box. Note the aluminum cylindrical spacer which I believe was 13mm long after lathe turning. The bottom foot bolts directly thru the factory zinc plated mount for the OEM black plastic air box. Don't know who made these for EuroSport Tuning, but the fit check proves that it fits the 7/9 geometry quite nicely!

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Old 01-06-2018, 11:37 PM   #346
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Default 19t wastegate actuator KINUGAWA

Well this Saturday was destined for the wastegate mount to my 19t.

I guess it's fairly well known that the MITSU TD04 (15g or larger) family of FWD turbos don't have a commercial solution for the WG actuator mounting in the RWD application. I did a fair amount of research to see what others had done, and the most common starting point mentioned was using a later AC compressor mounting plate, in conjunction with other "bits".

I posted a thread months back about the 19t & WG porting; several suggested that the KINUGAWA actuator was a nice upgrade which fully opened the TD04 turbine wastegate (implied/inferred that the MITSU actuator doesn't fully open the gate). I found a nice 850 version which came with a mounting bracket that looked to be useful. I was recommended by ARD and others on SwedeSpeed to use ~ 4.5 psi spring in the unit for a 19t. I bought the smallest one that KINUGAWA offered which I think was near 5 psi.

Took the 850 bracket and cut off the portions I didn't need; dropped all the pieces in a muriatic acid bath to strip all the plating off and get it ready for welding. Here I'm mocking up the WG actuator pieces with a small C clamp:



Only one of the M8 threaded bosses in the 19t was of any use in the RWD application. After careful consideration, I decided the only real candidate (without TIG welding to the compressor casting) was to drill & tap the location of the serial plate. You better believe I took many measurements and drilled very carefully:



I've decided to use an M8x1.0 pitch "fine thread" in the softer aluminum, rather than the more standard M8 x 1.25 pitch thread. Will hit FASTENAL this week to get the bottom tap and the fine thread bolt. I MIG'd together my custom bracket after numerous fit checks; stopping and starting welds/tacks doesn't make for the sweetest looking welds, but it won't fall apart:



When function is 100% confirmed, I'll clean up the WG actuator mount a bit, then acid bath it again and finally electroless nickel plate it.... don't want paint on that compressor which will be plenty hot, I hope!
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:40 AM   #347
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Default AW71 oil lines reposition

With the new air box and the planned addition of an "extra oil cooler" for my AW71, the factory bent 8mm steel lines to the radiator mounted oil cooler just won't do. With a fit check of all the pertinent parts, you can see here that the return line (the upper) passes right thru the do88 turbo inlet hose:



"No Good Condition!" is what my Japanese buddies would say. Anticipating a repositioning of the lines, I'd previously purchased a 5/16" steel tubing bender. While I didn't take any action pics of the process, I'll say that if you want a professional looking result, you simply must use a tubing bender. What I did was after disconnecting both supply and return lines from the radiator, then removing the "side by side tubing clips" that come with the cars, and finally disconnecting from the trans rear connection that longest (upper) hardline, you can wrestle it forward up around the engine mount so you can perform the bending.

If you want ANAL quality bent steel tubing, then buy a 2 foot 5/16" blank from NAPA and practice. There is a real knack to the use of these benders...... but suffice to say that you can twirl the bender around the 8mm (5/16") steel line and bend OR straighten it as you like. One tricky bit is up near the hex nut, you can only get so close to the nut and perform a bend (something like 60mm from the flare to the 90* down). Bust out those geometry skills! The joy is if you screw up, you can "mend your bends" with the tool.

Since this is a DD and I'm not obsessing about perfection.... function rules the day, but I tried to make the angles as clean as possible. Here is the final result, showing the connection to the "extra oil cooler" junction block. Special thanks to HiPerfAuto who supplied me we an NOS 240 cooler for this project (with a very cool picture of a 240 pulling a camper on the box )



As you can see, you've got to "thread the needle" just a bit to get this upper oil line between the big do88 3" AMM inlet hose and the hot side do88 charge pipe. It fits, and you don't even have to reflare the factory line! This is yet another example of "measure twice, bend once".

Soon I'll document the pics of the extra oil cooler install.... will add some holes to the front radiator core support for the hoses to pass thru and grommet installation to protect those hoses. Then there's a custom mount to carry the Setrab cooler. So much yet to do.......
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Old 01-21-2018, 10:23 AM   #348
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Perfect nice work as usual !
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Old 01-21-2018, 11:23 AM   #349
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Get those pictures coming
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Double Dutch - Build and goodies thread ;P

=======================================

Volvo 945 - Blue Pearl - LPT Polar 2.3 Limited Edition
B230-FK Turbo - 90+ ported - 15G Ported - Airintake
Erland Cox Regrind - Blabla Chips - 3 inch exhaust
MBC on 0.95 - Wasted Spark - Sponsored by my wife

=======================================
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Old 01-23-2018, 11:42 AM   #350
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Duane surgical with the kaizen. Nice job, as always.
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1985 744ti | 13.8 @ 100.5 mph - Sold after 20 years.
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