home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-15-2012, 05:24 PM   #26
Wilford Brimley
enjoys the beetus
 
Wilford Brimley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Lake stevens, wa
Default

Good read! I don't know how I missed this one.
__________________
(Insert Photobucket pic here)
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=316428 91'744T .57 t3/t4, big ic, greddy type s, 55lb/hr injectors, bosch 044, tloa ecu/ezk, 3"amm, rsi stg 3 cam, ttr cam gear, top mount header, 3" exhaust, kevlar tbelt, e-fan, 22 psi, intrax springs, cherry turbo brace, ipd rear sway, dual front sway bars, bilstein struts, camber mod, accum mod
Wilford Brimley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2012, 10:27 AM   #27
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default Fighting against the lean.....

Well apparently this issue is "endemic" as per the Brickboard, the side-to-side "lean" of the 7/9 series cars. With the new suspension (springs & Bils HD, conical "stay bushings", etc) my car is sitting +0.75mm higher on the passenger side, above the driver side. Understanding that the drivers side already has been penalized with the battery weight, ABS unit, fuel tank, and of course my weight, it will be even worse when I'm driving. A couple old suspension sages suggested putting 1K miles on the car before passing judgment, so that is what I will do.

However, a couple things were still bugging me. My JY supplied IPD sways were one of them. The rear bar didn't fit well when I installed it....I would say it was a bit of a fight to get the 4th bolt in position, and I knew that wasn't right. Decided to pull it back off to see if the stress had been relieved (it was installed sans drivetrain). When I loosened all bolts it immediately twisted like a pretzel, and bound up one of the short FLAT head bolts at the rear triangle mounts. I decided it was coming off....many folks think the rear 25mm bar does not let the rear suspension articulate properly, so I cleaned up the 19mm bar off my donor 945 and installed it instead.....lined up perfectly at all 4 connections! Then I had another look at that front bar, since the rear IPD was tweaked. The front 25mm was much closer, but still there was a difference from DR to PA sides. I reached back into my bag of tricks and installed these:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

I picked these up lightly used, believe they are the Kaplhenke adjustable end links for the 7/9's. With the heavy duty all thread and jam nuts, you can adjust each side so you have zero preload on the IPD front bar when sitting at ride height, which is what I did. The difference in left to right height? None, still sitting right at + 0.75 inches higher on the PASS side of the car! Oh well, the only option left is swapping the front springs side to side, and I'm not going there until the first thousand miles are on the beast. The Bils HD have a reputation of doing some strange things until a bit of break-in is performed.

Now that I've jumped to suspension, I'll retreat back to installation of the drivetrain.
__________________
Project "cheap thrills" build thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...67#post4211467

Feedback thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=198746
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2012, 05:59 PM   #28
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default

OK, back into the actual sequence...installing the AW71, freshly improved with the accumulator modification. When your time comes to marry together the redblock and the AW71, great care must be taken to align the torque converter properly prior to bolting the bellhousing flange to the back of your B230. I thought I had my converter properly seated on the trans. input shaft, twice, and it turned out it STILL was not properly engaged with the internal dogs in the trans. and the slots inside the converter. This is important enough, that for the record I'm quoting from the 7/9 Maint. pages on the Brickboard, as how to do it properly:

Torque Converter Alignment on Transmission Reinstallation. [Inquiry] Why is the shaft on the torque converter that goes into the transmission slotted on both sides of the end of the shaft?

[Response: Chris Herbst] Those slots have to be aligned with the oil pump on the inside (they fit over the extrusions or dogs inside the trans). If you don't line them up you'll chew up the torque converter and the drive gear inside the transmission, which basically means getting another transmission. In addition, your oil pump will not engage. In other words, alignment on reinstallation is very important. See also the notes on alignment related to engine rear seal installation.

[Jerry Andersch] When the torque converter is properly seated it should sit 1/2" below the bell housing flange. If it's flush with it, it's not seated all the way. With the tranny slightly angled up (bell housing higher than the tail)work the TC back and forth until it seats, sliding down 1/2" of so below the bell housing flange. When installing the tranny make sure the BH is slightly higher as you move the box into place, so the TC does not slide forward and out of place. Bolting the autobox into place with the TC not properly seated can damage the transmission.


There also is a "proper alignment" (stackup) of the plates which bolt to the output flange of the crankshaft, then the flex plate. I had marked all of my pieces for sanity, and the correct stackup of the thick plate, flexplate, and thin plate is shown in the Volvo Greenbook as well as in my Bentley manual for a 240. It is also of the UTMOST importance that the LH2.4 flex plate (60 holes, 2 spaces) be properly indexed for angular position on the crank for LH2.4 to know where TDC is at. As I recall, when the crank is at TDC of #1 piston after the intake stroke with #1 ready to fire, the "2 blank spaces" on your flex plate (or flywheel) must be in the starter hole of the redblock. It is fun to torque those crank grade 12.9 bolts to the correct torque; I used my son to hold back on the harmonic balancer center bolt, while I torqued those flexplate bolts into the crank. Once the flex plate is properly attached, you can assemble the redblock and the AW71.....requires a few hands to keep indexing the engine until the bolts between the converter and the flex plate (4 total, I think) can all be installed and torqued. Here is the finished product, resting and waiting for installation into the beast:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

If you look close on the floor you will see my ATP Ultimate Wastegate & actuator for the T3....I was trying to convince myself at the last minute if I should go ahead and install, which then would have required me to buy/build a 3" downpipe. The final decider was that the ATP wastegate actuator that I have will interfere with my T3 oil drain, so that made the decision....we go in with the stock downpipe (2.63 inches) and the stock wastegate assembly. The 3 inch setup will have to wait until I recover from all this work!

At long last, it is time to hoist the old school RAMCO cherry picker and place the powerplant into the 940. As you see in the pics, I have the distributor installed, along with wiring for the plugs....as it turned out, the distributor was smashed against the firewall, and I had a hell of a time twisting the whole thing to try and get the engine shoe horned down into place without destroying the inside of my intercooler. DON"T install the distributor prior to install, and you'll have much more room to work. I should also note that I made many, many test lifts with my cherry picker chain, U-shackles, trying to find the right locations to pick the assembly from to get the right engine & trans angle for lifting and placing.....YMMV, but I'm anal that way and tested until I found the G-spot before the final lift (measure twice, cut once). So here we go placing the goods:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

It takes some jostling around to get the balance right, I was finally able to get one motor mount in position/rough bolted, then used a floor jack and a chunk of a 2x10 beneath the AW71 oil pan, to help get the attitude of the assembly tipped up "more horizontal", and the trans weight picked up a bit with the floor jack, then swivel the front of the engine to get that last front motor mount lined up properly. It would be a struggle for one person, this being my first redblock/trans install, maybe the next one will get easier . As it all turned out, my "assistant" did provide some timely help to get things into position. With everything bolted in and sitting on all 3 mounting points, here it is:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Notice my brand new BOSCH reman. starter (eBay score ) installed; not going to all this trouble with an unknown used started, buried under that intake mess! Also here you can see the distributor and plug wires all PRE-installed... actually it lines up fairly easy with the engine installed in the car; a bit of a back strainer for us old guys, but not that bad. Now with the powerplant back in the beast, it is time to begin reconnecting the drivers side wiring harnesses, fuel lines, cables for throttle & kickdown, etc. etc. Lots more to do, but a really big step has been completed. Now where's that cold beer?

Last edited by DET17; 06-23-2012 at 08:06 AM.. Reason: spelling, grammar
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2012, 11:39 AM   #29
YellowT5-r
Board Member
 
YellowT5-r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Default

OK, so you were shooting for a high degree of difficulty engine install by leaving the dizzy on and your intercooler/radiator in....I can appreciate not wanting things to be easy on yourself...where's the challenge in that...am I right?

Bummer that your dizzy had a Greg Louganis moment with your firewall though. The judge from SW Portland gives your engine's dive an 8 after the deduction for non-vertical entry and inappropriate touching.
__________________
Project 755
YellowT5-r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2012, 03:15 PM   #30
Wilford Brimley
enjoys the beetus
 
Wilford Brimley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Lake stevens, wa
Default

It's such a pain to put motors in without being able to adjust their angle
Wilford Brimley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2012, 03:56 PM   #31
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by YellowT5-r View Post
OK, so you were shooting for a high degree of difficulty engine install by leaving the dizzy on and your intercooler/radiator in....I can appreciate not wanting things to be easy on yourself...where's the challenge in that...am I right?

Bummer that your dizzy had a Greg Louganis moment with your firewall though. The judge from SW Portland gives your engine's dive an 8 after the deduction for non-vertical entry and inappropriate touching.
I had the good sense to leave the radiator out....but the IC/condensor was still intact, as my AC was thought to be still charged (per the PO). Upon startup, I've got no AC so my low side pressure is obviously too low.

I put a harmonic balancer thru my Malibu radiator some rears ago, so I have (at least) learned from that burn.

And yes, those angle adjusting gizmos would indeed have utility putting the powerplant in place. Many of those Chinese pickers come with those standard....but I went old school made in the USA for my picker.....I'm sentimental for the good old days.....
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2012, 04:15 PM   #32
smokeyfan1000
Guest
 
Default

You should use adjustble end links with the front IPD sway bar & IPD lowering springs. The stock ones tend to break with the IPD bar. I've broken 2.

I'm now using Kaplehenke Racing Adj End Links and are doing fine.
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2012, 08:11 PM   #33
Curt_pnw
Board Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Edmonds, Wa
Default

I'm bookmarking this thread for reference when I dig into my engine build. You do a real good job at explaining things, so many things make much more sense to me now! Thanks. I look forward to more progress!
__________________

GARAGE | 85 245
Curt_pnw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2012, 08:48 AM   #34
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeyfan1000 View Post
You should use adjustble end links with the front IPD sway bar & IPD lowering springs. The stock ones tend to break with the IPD bar. I've broken 2.

I'm now using Kaplehenke Racing Adj End Links and are doing fine.
Roger that, they are in now (see the post for details). No doubt, the Volvo endlink threaded rod is significantly smaller than the Kaplhenke pcs, which are hell for stout. I'm concerned about the ball swivel end getting mucked up with road debris, but I greased mine up to provide a "filth barrier". Good tip, Smokey!
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2012, 01:19 PM   #35
smokeyfan1000
Guest
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
Roger that, they are in now (see the post for details). No doubt, the Volvo endlink threaded rod is significantly smaller than the Kaplhenke pcs, which are hell for stout. I'm concerned about the ball swivel end getting mucked up with road debris, but I greased mine up to provide a "filth barrier". Good tip, Smokey!
And FWIW, I have no problem with the spherical ball end of them. And I never hear them either, like I thought I would.

When I had OEM Volvo end link break it was quite a hairy experience, but luckily I had room on shoulder of road to correct the car.(both times) My OEM unit broke during excessively hard cornering
Would be a bad thing to happen in congested area /in town though for sure
  Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2012, 06:07 PM   #36
Roy 940
Board Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Under the hood...
Default

Personally, I don't want to use again the Uniball end link...It broke after 6 months of use (and abuse) on my car...
__________________
project Blue is Better

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=247082

Last edited by Roy 940; 06-25-2012 at 03:46 AM..
Roy 940 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2012, 07:02 PM   #37
diponyou
Board Member
 
diponyou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Tempe, Az
Default

Very nice man, I think a lot of these guys could benefit from this thread. Quite meticulous to say the least.
__________________
Brandon B.
1993 240+T ms2v3, 96#s, e85, T5
1984 242ti Hi-Comp b23 N/A, m46. Work in progress

93's Build Threadhttp://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=264885
84 242 Hi-Comp N/A Build Thread
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=290023
diponyou is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2012, 06:18 PM   #38
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default

Let's keep this rolling and get the redblock reassembled. Installed my freshly cleaned up and spit shined B230 Intake with brand new Elhring gasket (don't go cheap on that gasket, a PITA to replace later). Beneath the intake are MANY electrical devices requiring connection: AIC valve, starter & solenoid wiring, knock sensor, 2 temp. senders in the head....to name a few. Back against the firewall are the heater hoses and heater control valve to open the HOT line for the heater when in need. Plan on spending some quality time down there, and confirm WHICH hose goes WHERE on the firewall (it does matter according to the BrickBoard). After the intake and all driver side electrical terminations were completed I worked on the front end of the engine and installed all 3 belt driven accessories: 100A Bosch alternator, AC compressor, and the PS pump. Belts from Volvo and only 1 Conti Belt (Volvo is preferred IMO). Looked just like this:

[IMG][/IMG]

With the intake manifold installed and torqued, I fed the injector wiring harness and ground wires up thru the center opening, just a "rough in". Notice the blue ground wire coming from the 100A alternator, connecting to the intake support stay:

[IMG][/IMG]

Now from the pass. side view you can see the PS Pump installed and belt tensioned (this setup requires 3 different bolts/nuts to be loosened BEFORE you can tension it; be patient and figure out where they are and it tensions easily). Also in this view you can see the AW71 trans oil lines running to/from the big wagon radiator. My lines were bent up badly by previous hack work....had to get the steel tubing benders and a lot of "tweaking" but I finally got them to resemble OEM:

[IMG][/IMG]

Finally it was time to install the fuel rail with my freshly cleaned & flowed 36#/hour Ford browntops, low Z. All injector leads are reinstalled (they were carefully labeled so not to confuse them!). Here she is:

[IMG][/IMG]

There are injector "ground wires" which must be very carefully attached, one front and one rear. I followed the advice from the 7/9 Maint. Pages on the BB, and used special aluminum grounding paste as these grounds land into the intake.....research it; these must be right or you will have injector issues. Now here is a better view from forward of the engine showing the Browntops and the new Bosch 3 Bar FPR:

[IMG][/IMG]

There are a lot of misc. connections which must be made...cruise control, AW71 kickdown cables, vacuum lines to climate controls, fuel supply & return lines. I don't have pics of each step, but it all makes sense when you tackle one task at a time. Looking at the empty engine bay, the snakepit of hoses & wires is daunting, but have faith. You can eat an elephant....one piece at a time

Last edited by DET17; 07-01-2012 at 03:06 PM..
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2012, 06:04 PM   #39
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default

My air intake box was in bad shape, typical of the 7/9's. Most of the snap-spring latches had snapped off....that 20 year old plastic hinge point fails, and many times a small chunk of plastic is gone. Well having considered a cone filter, but from research and inspection, the Volvo unit actually looks very well done by the Swedes if you study the airflow....and web legend says it will support maybe 300 HP, so I decided to clean, repair, reuse. Found a nice writeup on the BB 7/9 pages (sounding like a broken record, but MANY good tips and advice to be found there) about how to retrofit some McMaster-Carr spring latches. I bought these, less than $5 a piece shipped to my door:

[IMG][/IMG]

Then got out my old school Craftsman rivet tool, 1/8" rivets, and measured carefully to determine WHERE I wanted to attach these new clips. Actually I cheated..I had an old junk air box since I had 2 cars, so I guessed the location and test drilled, verified the amount of squeeze that I wanted. Remember to test "squeeze" with a filter installed, or you will be TOO TIGHT. By the 3rd trial I had it nailed (don't ask me how far, but these pics will give you an idea). Here is the first hinge spring clip installed:

[IMG][/IMG]

If you look close, you will see some small washers under the rivet; actually outside and inside the airbox. When I tested my junk box, the first rivet pulled right through the plastic before the center snapped off. The plastic is TOO weak to carry the stress under the head of the rivet. To enable a proper squeeze, I put small washers on both sides of the 1/4 inch rivet.....take yours to the washer bin, and find some (think mine were 3mm, but not sure). Then I synched down the rivet with my rivet gun, but DID NOT break off the shank. Instead, when I had the proper clamp and squeeze on the box, I took my dremel and cutoff wheel and sawed off the rivet shank. Finished units installed, like this:

[IMG][/IMG]

All new spring latches installed, and the finished air box installed. Look pretty good, and work "better than new" :

[IMG][/IMG]

With the finished intake air box installed, it was time to complete the intake piping and hot side IC piping. All my pieces cleaned up (OCD ) and then put into position. Amazingly, all pipes which came off the Mitsu turbo, lined right up with the Garrett T3; obviously they are dimensionally "very close" for interconnection piping and the downpipe as well. Here are a couple shots of the induction to the Turbo:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

The suction hose from the AMM to the compressor inlet aligned perfect, no issues again. Here you see it:

[IMG][/IMG]

While I was rolling, I went ahead and followed the flow to the cold side of the IC. All my hardpipes and hoses cleaned up, clamps oriented, I installed the cold side system between the IC exit and the TPS inlet to the intake. You can also see here my new top radiator hose (NAPA or Volvo, skip the cheap junk hoses, they will break your heart). Howsabout those brand new ABA hose clamps with that shiny blue paint?

[IMG][/IMG]

Now that the induction system piping, from airbox to intake manifold was complete, I next installed the oil breather hose. This connects the redblock crankcase breather to the turbo inlet hose, recycling those "blow by gases & oil" from the B230. Reused the old hose, bought a new 45* fitting (Volvo) off eBay, and "repurposed" one of those Volvo wiring harness tie-down straps to hold this hose, like this:

[IMG][/IMG]

The 7/9 apparently use a 12V solenoid valve to open/close this oil fume passage....just reconnected the factory parts.

Last for this installment, the fine details on the intake side vacuum hoses. I used the "one way" check valves to keep BOOST from feeding back into everything, except of course, the BOOST gauge line. If you like close, you will see the small check valve on the braided line which draws from the breather box when idling:

[IMG][/IMG]

Hooking up the spools for the throttle cable, AW71, and cruise control, I relied completely on info. from my Bentley manual and the rest from the BB 7/9 pages. I found that the ball-joint swivel link was badly misadjusted by some previous hack....I could not get my AW71 kickdown cable to install per specs; had to readjust this ball link, and everything was fine on the kickdown cable....just like the Swedes designed it!
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2012, 07:18 PM   #40
stylngle2003
Board Member
 
stylngle2003's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Two Up, Two Down
Default

Nice attention to detail, Duane. Really liking your execution.

The electrical connector on the breather hose is a heater
__________________
-Billy
Volvoless for the first time since 1990...
2002 Toyota Avalon XLS (comfy gradma car)
1996 Chevrolet Tahoe LS 2WD (hauls ass)
1990 Mazda Miata (track toy)
stylngle2003 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2012, 08:21 PM   #41
Harlard
Pro Sneaker Peddler
 
Harlard's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: PDX
Default

Loving the detail to your work! Best way to prevent having to chase down bugs that somehow love to pop up after work is "finished."
__________________


Herr Harlard am Erstens

1979 242 DL

Quote:
Originally Posted by t8fanning View Post
My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
Harlard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2012, 08:24 AM   #42
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stylngle2003 View Post
Nice attention to detail, Duane. Really liking your execution.
Thanks Billy, Harald! I wish sometimes I could just "put it together", but the OCD has the final say. Hope the belly splash pan will protect most of my work, but I'm sure a nice layer of filth will beset upon this DD. "Cheap Thrills" is just a practice run for the 242 Project to come...now scheduled to commence in 2013, sometime.
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2012, 08:28 AM   #43
Roy 940
Board Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Under the hood...
Default

Is your car running now?
Roy 940 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2012, 11:46 AM   #44
M.H. Yount
Board Member
 
M.H. Yount's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Default

I've been quietly following along - nice work!
__________________
'82 242 6.2L; '17 Mazda3; '16 CrossTrek
M.H. Yount is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2012, 12:50 PM   #45
smokeyfan1000
Guest
 
Default

Looking good DET17 !
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2012, 07:27 AM   #46
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy 940 View Post
Is your car running now?
Running! Actually driving to work today for the first time. Spent the last couple days finishing the AC; had to install a new MCC and then add a ground wire to my SEIKI compressor, so now she's blowing ice cubes......with 97F scheduled here today. I'll try and get this build thread caught up to date
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2012, 02:09 PM   #47
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default

Installed a Hallman Manual Boost Controller (MBC) on the project car. I went Flintstone simple, bought the ES version which I think retails now under $50. Nice folks, spoke to the owner/tech support guy, who recommended this silicone hose for connecting the MBC to the T3 and wastegate:

http://hosetechniques.com/index.php?...ex&cPath=104_1

My old Garrett T3 has fittings on the compressor which are 1/4" hose barbs....the MBC has fittings which are 3/16". I bought the reducer fittings from Hose Techniques, so I could step my lines down to make the connections. Look close, and you will see the small "spring steel" hose clamps at the reducer fittings. I've read that the Silicone lines, while great at resisting oil swelling, can squirm off of their connectors. If you tear down a couple redblocks, and remove ALL the vacuum lines, you will have a pretty nice collection of these simple clamps.

I installed the MBC by tapping with an M8 tap, the engine bay side of a "weld nut" which is used to mount from the inner fender side, those plastic fender liners. I took a bottoming tap, and was able to tap around 5~6 threads from the engine bay, enough to bolt down my Hallman MBC. Here it is, right below the coolant fill tank on the passenger side (RH side):

[IMG][/IMG]

Here is a couple shots of the compressor side of the T3. You can see the transition of the 1/4" hose to the 3/16" smaller lines to the MBC. It is a bit congested with coolant lines, but it fits without issues:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

The above pic also shows my water return lines from the T3 CHRA. The 940 has a "T" hose coming out of the suction line between radiator and the waterpump....unfortunately, none of the steel Banjo fittings I had for the Garrett T3 would get anywhere near the hose, nor would they clear the 0.52 A/R compressor housing. I managed to find one steel fitting that flipped the line back over to the outside, so I butt spliced a piece of NAPA 3/8" heater hose, directly to the 10mm suction hose from Volvo. You can NOT see it in that picture, but the butt splice is directly below the inlet hose to the compressor.
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2012, 05:47 PM   #48
M.H. Yount
Board Member
 
M.H. Yount's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Default

I have NO IDEA what's going on --- but it looks and sounds good!!!
M.H. Yount is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2012, 07:54 PM   #49
DET17
Reformed SAABaholic
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: NW Georgia
Default

TME Exhaust.

Seems these systems, once upon a time available from IPD, have good performance for a "CAT back" system. The TME website claims the backpressure is reduced by 65~70% over the stock dual muffler setup; those TBers who have run these have remarked that they have a sweet sound. Well another TBer was parting a 7 series car out on the left coast, and I bought this almost complete system from him (needed new clamps). The TME setup uses approx. 63mm OD 400 stainless pipes, and a single "high flow" muffler at the rear. I decided to run the factory downpipe for a while, and this recycled system was available for half the price of the 3" setups. Hopefully this will be adequate when I eventually install the 3 inch downpipe. It installed without a lot of drama....just a few tweaks to get her installed.

The final product, looking like-a-theese:

[IMG][/IMG]

The TME muffler hangs nicely from their custom support strap, using the rear hanger points. Here is an overall shot of the setup:

[IMG][/IMG]

I was able to rework the old "front muffler" support bracket/hanger, add a tweaked 2.5" muffler clamp, and that took car of support the long pipe just infront of the axle. Here is another shot showing the muffler just behind the axle:

[IMG][/IMG]

And last but not least, the custom IPD stainless exhaust tip:

[IMG][/IMG]

Now having test driven the car a couple hundred miles, the TME setup is reasonably quiet, and you can hear just enough when the throttle is wide open. I like it, and recommend them.....these come up a couple times a year in the FOR SALE pages. Actually, one former TBer up in the NE ran mid 13's with his 940T....then upgraded to a full 3" downpipe & back system.....and still ran mid 13's. I'll need some proof to believe the 3" back makes a difference for a DD. For now, I'll run the TME.

Edit: While my son and I were making our shake down runs in the 'hood' one evening, we pulled the car back into my basement shop to check some things underhood. I had a minor antifreeze leak, so I dropped down to take a look and see if more had gathered. To my surprise, I saw this under the back of the car:

[IMG][/IMG]

This guy had walked in thru the open garage door while we worked....neither of us saw him. Luckily, we spotted him before we fired the car and avoided running him down. Here he is checking out my Bils HD on the rear:

[IMG][/IMG]

I'm hoping this isn't a sign of the acceleration potential of the 940T! For the record, no Eastern Box Turtles (Terrapene carolina) were injured in the taking of these photos.....released unharmed.

Last edited by DET17; 07-06-2012 at 05:32 PM..
DET17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2012, 08:45 PM   #50
Harlard
Pro Sneaker Peddler
 
Harlard's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: PDX
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DET17 View Post
I'll need some proof to believe the 3" back makes a difference for a DD. For now, I'll run the TME.
+1. Running an OBX 2.5" from the downpipe back, and I'm hard pressed to feel a difference between this and a 3" system (from experience driving other cars with big exhaust). Unless you ever plan on having lofty power goals, a 2.5" mandrel bent system with stock downpipe is more than plenty.
Harlard is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:43 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.