home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-31-2015, 10:47 PM   #26
Ansel+
Bolbo Spotted
 
Ansel+'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
Default

That sounds like a CPR issue for sure.
__________________
Ansel+ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2015, 02:25 PM   #27
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

A small update...figured out my "missing" issue, it was an underperforming tank pump. I replaced it with the ipd upgrade pump and it is running strong now. If you want to read through the process of figuring it out, see this thread: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=170882

Since fixing that I've been putting miles on it and fixing some minor interior electrical annoyances. I've also been giving it the "Goof Off" treatment and removing the black spray paint. It will need wet sanding and buffing as well as some repainting of some spots, but to me, it's better red than black.


Also, I have a growing collection of parts in my basement for a LH2.2/EZK/+T swap over the winter.
__________________
-Mike
1998 V70 T5
1979 242 DL+T |Project Thread| |Feedback|
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2015, 02:49 PM   #28
Harlard
Pro Sneaker Peddler
 
Harlard's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: PDX
Default

*like*
__________________


Herr Harlard am Erstens

1979 242 DL

Quote:
Originally Posted by t8fanning View Post
My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
Harlard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2015, 03:00 PM   #29
Coupid
Board Member
 
Coupid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Default

That red is going to look so much better!
__________________
1972 142S Project Thread: http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=311926

1991 780 Sold
1979 244DL Sold
1986 740+T Sold
1983 242T Sold
Coupid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2015, 03:18 PM   #30
Mark
sex lights
 
Mark's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Vancouver
Default

What's the opposite of 'murdering out' a car? 'Community servicing?' I dunno. Great job, nonetheless!

M.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack View Post
stuck in 2004 like this website
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkKratoz View Post
Incorrect, the Frigidaire is Mark's 86 745. It's in appliance white and it is Best Car.
'76 265 wagon with Megasquirted 350 chevy- T56 swap in progress AT LAST!
The Fridge; '86 745 DD-with full '94 LH2.4 swap. Now with M90!
'78 Honda GL1000- naked Goldwing.
Mark is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2015, 09:10 PM   #31
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Started the +T process...

Removed Kjet components


Turbo-length exhaust studs installed. Had a heck of a time getting one of the old ones out, snapped off about 1/4" above the head...thankfully my Titan stud removal tool came to the rescue and worked the stud out w/ plenty of PB Blaster.


N/A vs Turbo exhaust stud lengths for reference.


When removing the radiator hoses, part of the upper hose barb decided to stay in the hose...doh! I think I will just run the radiator like this for now and keep an eye out for a replacement.


I modified the bottom rubber support pieces for the radiator/intercooler. I believe they are 700 mounts, but seem like they will be ok for 240 use.



It took some trial and error to find the right left-right position for the radiator/intercooler stack. Based on all the pictures I found online, the new upper support brackets should go back in the same threaded hole that they came out of, however in my case the pass side bracket lined up better with the left-most threaded hole in the slam panel. The fan shroud was pretty close to centered around the fan in this case. I will need to notch my battery tray to allow the oil cooler to fit. As it is now, the cooler gets pinched between the tray and the intercooler. I will make some simple spacers and get longer bolts for the upper brackets.


I have also been working on the LH and EZK harnesses and have most of the modifications complete.

One of the next things I will do is remove the oil pan to have the turbo return line welded to it and a drain for my catch can (my B21 does not have the PCV oil drain in the block like B23/B230s do). Not really looking forward to the pan removal...seems like an annoying task.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2015, 07:40 PM   #32
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

It was a good day...the +T runs!

Need to do some shakedown runs before I get into the boost too much, but it is running smoothly so far.

Need a new radiator b/c of the broken hose barb pictured earlier...but other than that no leaks!
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2015, 07:45 PM   #33
Duder
His Dudeness, El Duderino
 
Duder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Default

Glad to see the goof off is working out for you! Much better red than rattle can black.
Duder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2015, 07:58 PM   #34
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duder View Post
Glad to see the goof off is working out for you! Much better red than rattle can black.
Thanks! It is quite time consuming, but it does the job. I'd rather have so-so red paint than the black.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2015, 08:05 PM   #35
Duder
His Dudeness, El Duderino
 
Duder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Torrance, CA
Default

Gentle wet sanding and a full clay bar / buff / polish job should work wonders for the old single stage paint, especially on a darker color like this red. After repainting the areas that need it of course.
Duder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2015, 10:24 AM   #36
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Here are some more details of the +T process...

The turbo is a Mitsubishi 13C.


Yoshifab fuel pump vent crankcase vent plate.


Ebay catch can and routing (drain hose is not yet attached).



21mm freeze plugs installed to plug the kjet injector holes.


8AN fitting welded to the oil pan for the catch can drain and a 10AN fitting for the turbo oil drain as well as a new coat of paint for the oil pan (it is really red, looks pink in the pic).


6AN fitting welded to the fuel rail and 850T injectors.



940T downpipe adapted to the 240T exhaust I already had installed.


One of the more annoying parts of the swap...making an adapter for the LH temp sensor. I used the kjet thermal time switch port (M14) and used a generic oil pressure sensor adapter and drilled/tapped for M12. Since M14 and M12 threads are so close in diameter I could only tap the hex portion of the adapter and then stacked crush washers to take up the extra space between the adapter and the sensor base.


Passenger motor mount was starting to separate so I replaced with a 240 Diesel mount.


LH and EZK computers installed in the passenger's footwell.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2015, 08:25 PM   #37
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

A craigslist radiator fixed my coolant leak and a new fitting fixed a leak at the turbo oil feed. (FYI: PepBoys sells Russell AN fittings for decent prices and can have them next day) Overall the car has been a lot more fun to drive even with the wastegate actuator set with zero preload. I have an intercooled 240T turbo gauge (w/ larger yellow band) at the moment, so I don't know the exact psi the turbo is running, but it goes to 1/2-2/3 of the yellow band. I am keeping my eye out for a deal on a calibrated VDO boost gauge and a wideband O2 sensor before I turn up the boost.

A few things I've noticed so far...

An exhaust leak between the turbo and manifold, the condensation area can be seen on cold starts. Any thoughts on this? I may not have the nuts torqued to spec here...it is difficult to get a torque wrench on the nuts and I went by feel, but they may be a bit shy of where they should be. (Reference: 32ft-lbs + 45deg)


There sure is a lot of junk that gets blown into my catch can...this is after ~200 miles.


Also, on decel I have noticed some decent smoke from the tailpipe...guess with an unknown mileage turbo, I shouldn't be surprised.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2015, 09:14 PM   #38
daruu
Board Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Norway!
Default

Looks nice!
Shouldn't the bolts be tightened a bit more after running until its heated up a few times?
__________________
1997 945 Turbo - Daily driver
1989 744 GL - Neverending project
1977 244 DL - Turbo sleeper
daruu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-30-2015, 10:37 AM   #39
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by daruu View Post
Looks nice!
Shouldn't the bolts be tightened a bit more after running until its heated up a few times?
Good point, I will give them another tightening.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2015, 10:51 PM   #40
Old Iron
I Roll
 
Old Iron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Dela-Where?
Default

Glad to see the car coming together. Nice that the black spray paint actually came off, can't imagine the elbow grease that went into that!
__________________
Turbobricked
Old Iron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2015, 03:04 PM   #41
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

I realized that having zero preload on the wastegate actuator was drastically conservative, so I adjusted it to be 1/2 the diameter of the actuator pin and wow, what a difference, haha!

Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 12-06-2015 at 04:52 PM..
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2016, 09:54 PM   #42
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Got an AEM wideband and pieced together a Grainger MBC to turn up the boost a little...right now boost is stock 7psi and creeps to 8-9 by redline...my goal is to bump it up to 10-12psi, but we'll see once I get the wideband installed. I'm also keeping my eye out for a decent M46 and 3.73 diff to make cruising more enjoyable. My 3.91 / M45 combo is torquey but I quickly run out of gears. I know a T5 is another option but seems like an OEM combo would be more cost effective and will withstand "stockish" power.

oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2016, 03:46 PM   #43
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Removed the downpipe today to have the wideband bung welded in and also tried locating the source of an oil leak around the turbo. When I went to ensure the oil drain flange bolts were snug, one of them ended up stripping in the cartridge...must have been on it's way out to begin with as I did not put much torque on it before it gave out. Only one bolt on the drain flange isn't going help stop leaks...looks like I need to find another 13C.

Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 01-09-2016 at 04:14 PM..
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2016, 07:34 PM   #44
Harlard
Pro Sneaker Peddler
 
Harlard's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: PDX
Default

May as well make it a 15G
Harlard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2016, 05:39 AM   #45
JW240
Your current user title
 
JW240's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: The Netherlands, Europe
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post

An exhaust leak between the turbo and manifold, the condensation area can be seen on cold starts. Any thoughts on this? I may not have the nuts torqued to spec here...it is difficult to get a torque wrench on the nuts and I went by feel, but they may be a bit shy of where they should be. (Reference: 32ft-lbs + 45deg)
Maybe try this gasket:
http://www.skandix.de/de/fahrzeug-te...lader/1021401/

Used it on more +T's and it helps to seal that connection a bit better. Standard on S60/V70 turbo.

White sludge is not so much a turbo problem, maybe the engine is running a bit cold or only being used for short trips?

Nice swap/+T BTW! Always liked this car and excellent to see it getting the attention it deserves!
__________________
240 | 1991 | 324 KKm | B230F+T | Cossie T3 60/63 | M90 | Toyo R1R/Polaris
Amazon/121 | 1968 | finished 2020+? (for sale)
760 | 1984 | B6284T swap | 2x13T | finished 201?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Redwood Chair View Post
Don't forget about properly seasoning it on HF jackstands for a couple years whilst dreaming about big powah 'goals'.
JW240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2016, 04:17 PM   #46
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Time for a brief update...

Put poly bushings in the panhard rod and rear trailing arms plus a fresh coat of paint and also replaced the rear trailing arm bushings in the axle. I used SuperPro poly bushings and Lemforder axle bushings. The torque rods already had poly installed, but could use a coat of paint...maybe some other time.







Homebrew tool in use.


Old vs. new.


New TAB installed!



I followed the "homebrew tool" method for removing the rear TABs. After multiple soakings with PB Blaster, this job really wasn't as bad as I had expected, but I did need to add 2x 1.25" (2.75" OD) washers to aid in the installation of the new bushings. Otherwise the "pusher" part of the TAB tool was very hard to get centered on the new bushings and would want to push on the rubber instead of the metal shell or deform the metal shell...with the large washers installation was easy.

"remove mode"


"install mode"
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-23-2016, 11:29 PM   #47
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

The car is almost ready to come out of winter hibernation...time for another update.

New shifter cage bushings (p/n 1232158). These are the stiffest of the 3x different bushing p/n's available for 240s.


Replaced the large stock steering wheel with a 14.5" diameter wheel and put in an SAM short shifter.


While the car was running fine with the stock "B" cam, I wanted to change to something with less overlap now that it is turbocharged. I was able to find a "V" cam and swapped that in and reset the valve lash to .015-.016". I needed to replace all but one of the valve shims. I am anxious to get the car out on the road to see how the car drives with the "V" cam. It started up and ran fine in the garage. I replaced the cam seal, valve cover gasket, timing belt and tensioner while I had it apart. I must have bumped the aux shaft when installing the timing belt b/c the ignition timing was very advanced when I started it again, but that was an easy fix, just needed to rotate the distributor a bit.

Also, here is an OEM cam spec reference chart that I found useful and just for kicks, I made a chart to be able to better visualize the differences between some of the more common cams.





Simple tool for tightening the cam gear.


I also decided to try a set of Kaplhenke torque rods. Installation was straightforward, the hardest part was keeping the spacers from falling out while aligning the rod ends at the body and axle attachments.


Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 04-23-2016 at 11:45 PM..
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2016, 02:42 AM   #48
Finnish240
Board Member
 
Finnish240's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Finland
Default

Whats happening with that red panhard rod end secure spacer thing? Is it me or is it out of the line some how?
__________________
Volvo 240 GL - not so low, but yes.... it is slow
Finnish240 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-24-2016, 08:35 AM   #49
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnish240 View Post
Whats happening with that red panhard rod end secure spacer thing? Is it me or is it out of the line some how?
The nut isn't fully tightened in the picture so the spacer is hanging loosely.
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2016, 10:41 PM   #50
oldschoolvolvo
Board Member
 
oldschoolvolvo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Lancaster, PA
Default

Removed the atmospheric vent (filter) on my catch can and routed a line to the pre-turbo hose b/c catch can vapors smell nasty!



I pieced together a cheap boost leak tester and found a few leaky charge pipe connections that sealed up with a few more turns of the hose clamp.


I also replaced the water pump which had begun to leak after a few startups in the garage. A new Hepu pump fixed that issue.

I also got to get out and drive today and get a feel for how the "V" cam behaves. It is very smooth, revs easily and the power comes on around 4k. Compared to the "B" cam that was in there before, I think the most noticable differences are that the "V" is smoother and more free revving.


I was expecting that having all new bushings in the rear end would solve the "clunking" when starting in 1st gear but unfortunately it is still there. I will double check that everything is tight after driving it for a bit more, but I'm assuming it is the U-joints in the driveshaft that are making the noise.

Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 04-30-2016 at 11:18 PM.. Reason: moar pics
oldschoolvolvo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:02 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.