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Old 05-10-2016, 09:43 PM   #51
oldschoolvolvo
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The smaller steering wheel and SAM shifter are big improvements for driving "feel", but the shifter buzzes quite loudly over 4k rpm, kinda annoying.

I may look at finding a stiffer spring like this member did w/ the same issue:
http://turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274604

I also installed some Yoshifab lower chassis braces and they are most noticeable under braking as they eliminated some shudder that my car had.
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Old 05-11-2016, 08:34 AM   #52
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really cool thread, and nice progress on the car. I enjoyed reading the backstory too.
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Old 05-11-2016, 10:27 PM   #53
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Thanks!

I added an actual gauge pod and got a calibrated boost gauge instead of the stock Volvo one.


Also installed my MBC tonight and bumped the boost up to ~11psi. It scoots pretty well now! Here's a quick video...the buzzing at the end is the shifter.
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Old 05-12-2016, 12:12 AM   #54
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What turbo are you running? Is that a generic pod fitted to a plastic bit where the center grill is on the dash? I have the old dash too.
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:26 AM   #55
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What turbo are you running? Is that a generic pod fitted to a plastic bit where the center grill is on the dash? I have the old dash too.
Turbo is a Mitsubishi 13C.

You are correct...the gauge pod is a universal one from eBay and I cut a piece of plastic sheet to replace the speaker grille in the middle of the dash.
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Old 05-15-2016, 09:58 PM   #56
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Got the rear of the car up on ramps today to see if something was loose and causing the clunking sounds...I rechecked the pinion angle and realized it was off a few degrees, so I readjusted the torque rods and now a majority of the clunks are gone. I guess something was binding and causing the noise.
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Old 05-31-2016, 10:19 PM   #57
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After some high rpm runs, I've been noticing some coolant burping out of the reservoir...something to keep an eye on I guess. I just installed a new Hepu water pump w/ the cast impeller which isn't supposed to cavitate. Also, cooling system pressure seems high after high rpm runs as well (judged by squeezing the upper rad hose). Pressure seems to come back down after driving normally for a while. Maybe this is nothing to worry about, but just some observations.

Made some progress on the appearance-side of things. I have 98% of the black paint stripped via Goof Off and some spots needed to be repainted. The red paint on the car is not the original shade of red (seems like it was repainted once or twice in it's lifetime) and I was able to find a shade of Rustoleum at Home Depot that is a close enough match (Regal Red) to do some touch up. The areas below the beltline trim were in the worst shape so I taped it off there and repainted below that line.

Before:
*front fender was already painted in this shot


After:


I also tested out some rubbing compound on the hood and was pleasantly surprised w/ the results...besides a lot of elbow grease, I think the paint will look ok when all is said and done. I may need to find a random orbital buffer to make this an easier process, but it is a good workout.


Last edited by oldschoolvolvo; 06-01-2016 at 09:02 AM..
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Old 05-31-2016, 10:41 PM   #58
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Looks good. DEFINITELY get a orbital. My white was just as oxidized as your red, and the orbital made it easy work!
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:57 AM   #59
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Nice work! That paint should really buff up nicely. +1 on an orbital.
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Old 06-11-2016, 11:24 PM   #60
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I'm getting a bit annoyed by the gearing in the car. It currently has an M45 with a 3.91 rear and with the +T the gears just feel very short. I'm going to seriously consider a T5 trans swap as I've been reading positive things about the ratios being a good match for the turbo engine.

I've also been following a few other build threads to observe the best way to piece together the swap and it seems relatively straight forward. I'd be doing this on the "budget" side of the spectrum so I'd just modify the existing x-member, keep the cable clutch and prob just do the Yoshifab clutch disc and a 240T pressure plate. Not sure if I'd do the Mustang driveshaft or modify what I have...will ultimately come down to cost and what I can find most easily.
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:21 PM   #61
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Minor update...

I decided to improve upon the deteriorating rubber hose between the turbo and the MAF and replaced it with a 60mm silicone 45* elbow and a 60-70mm silicone reducer from eBay and a section of 45* 2" schedule 40 electrical conduit elbow from Home Depot. I drilled a hole in the conduit section to accept the vent hose from the catch can.




I also seem to have resolved the coolant overpressure issue I was having. I think the root of it was that my radiator cap was on too tight. I have it just "snug" now and the system seems to be working fine. I also decided to replace the thermostat with an 82C unit just because. Interestingly the temp gauge reads noticeably lower than with the 87C unit I took out (about 8:00 instead of 9:00).

I decided to also try a "T" cam instead of the "V" and decided that I like the powerband of the "T" better. It does not pull as hard as the "V" but for the type of driving I do and the engine setup I have, I think the "T" is the right choice. I sold the "V" cam to a fellow Tbricker so hopefully it can be put to good use.

I made a little timelapse of removing the cam just for kicks.
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Old 07-03-2016, 07:50 PM   #62
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Been having an intermittent issue where the engine will cut out and die under acceleration. I am thinking that the issue lies in the ignition system b/c when the engine will cut out, the tach will go to 0 but the engine will still be rotating (still in gear). Also when trying to restart the car, the tach won't move while cranking. Previously the issue was more like a hiccup where it would cut out for a moment and then restart itself while the car was moving, but today it cut out and did not want to restart right away (it cranked fine tho). I sat along the road for maybe 10-15 min and then the car started up and I went on my way. Another thing I noticed was that while on the highway my AFR was down around 10-11:1 where it is normally around 14.5. Not sure if it is related, or if the computer went into "limp-home" mode b/c it detected a fault...I don't have a way to check if any codes are being triggered.


My initial theory is this:
The tach in my car is driven off of the "-" terminal on the coil, so for the tach to stop working the coil had to stop triggering which means that either the coil is going bad or the power stage is faulty. After some digging I realized that the EZK117 ignition system is meant to use a different coil with lower resistance primary windings. Since I still have the original coil from the breakerless ignition system, it seems logical to start with swapping in the correct coil.
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Old 07-03-2016, 11:36 PM   #63
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Love this car. Good Luck with the stall issue.
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Old 07-04-2016, 05:21 PM   #64
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Thanks!

I changed the oil yesterday and realized that the bolt that holds the alternator adjuster bracket to the block had broken off and the alternator belts were really loose as well as the negative battery cable . I tightened the battery cable and replaced the broken bolt and the car seemed to be running well today...maybe that's all the issue was. AFRs were back to normal as well. I've still got my eye out for a different coil to complete the EZK ignition swap.
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Old 07-04-2016, 09:36 PM   #65
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Excellent!
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 07-10-2016, 09:38 PM   #66
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I replaced the breakerless coil (Bosch 0221122006) with an EZK coil (Bosch 0221122334) and surprisingly the engine runs smoother now, especially under high-load situations. There was a bit of "choppyness" when accelerating in 3rd or 4th gear from ~2000 rpm which is now gone. I figured it was driveline vibration, but seems like it was spark-related.




My flasher relay has started acting up. It will work ok for the first few minutes of driving and then be very intermittent (see below video). It will do the same thing with both turn signals and the hazards. I'll try cleaning the relay and see what happens.


Also, just a shot from cruising around the other night. I still need to borrow a friend's buffer and get after the paint. I also am keeping my eye out for another set of wheels. I like the look of the gold/red, but 14" wheels aren't doing me any favors in the handling department. My brother has a set of Virgos that he may trade me, but I'd really love to pick up a set of Geminis. However, they are out of my budget at this point.

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Old 07-11-2016, 02:12 PM   #67
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I want your tach dash.

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Old 07-28-2016, 12:19 PM   #68
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There's something about this car that I really appreciate, It seems honest. Keep up the good work!
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:27 PM   #69
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Quote:
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I want your tach dash.

I have a couple spare early tachs.
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turn the ignition timing up til it's faster than eamon's miata, then replace the shortblock #wootenthings

My Project (It's a 1979 244DL...sort of.)
K-Jet to Megasquirt Article

The Departed: 1981 245, 1983 245 Turbo, 1983 244 Turbo, 1983 242 Turbo, 1984 244, 1985 245 Turbo,
1989 244, 1989 765, 1990 245 Turbo, 1991 244, 1992 245, 1997 855
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Old 07-28-2016, 12:35 PM   #70
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Whoa, I hadn't checked this thread in a while. Dude, this is awesome work. It's neat that you got your car back, but the work that you've put into this to get it back to form *and then some*, is really something. Great job!
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Old 07-28-2016, 01:55 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruspeed View Post
There's something about this car that I really appreciate, It seems honest. Keep up the good work!
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Whoa, I hadn't checked this thread in a while. Dude, this is awesome work. It's neat that you got your car back, but the work that you've put into this to get it back to form *and then some*, is really something. Great job!
Thanks for the compliments!

I fixed the turn signal issue by taking out the flasher relay, removing the plastic cover and soaking the whole assembly in rubbing alcohol for a bit. Turn signals work great now.

A couple other electrical gremlins have been appearing, but I "think" I have the causes identified...

#1) I've still had the engine randomly shut off while driving. It will always crank strongly but not start. Like I mentioned in an earlier post the tach doesn't move while cranking during these situations so that points me to the ignition system. Most recently, I reseated the powerstage connector and then the car started. Once I got the car home I took out the powerstage, cleaned the contacts thoroughly as well as the connector, applied some dielectric grease and reinstalled.

#2) One morning the car was running rough, AFR was full rich all the time and had no power. Reseating the MAF sensor connector fixed that issue, so I also took the time to thoroughly clean that connector & contacts and apply dielectric grease.

While I was cleaning contacts, I also cleaned and retightened all ground connections in the engine bay for good measure. I haven't put many miles on the car since doing this so the jury is still out on if I truly fixed the issues or not.
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Old 07-28-2016, 08:46 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by oldschoolvolvo View Post
Thanks for the compliments!

I fixed the turn signal issue by taking out the flasher relay, removing the plastic cover and soaking the whole assembly in rubbing alcohol for a bit. Turn signals work great now.

A couple other electrical gremlins have been appearing, but I "think" I have the causes identified...

#1) I've still had the engine randomly shut off while driving. It will always crank strongly but not start. Like I mentioned in an earlier post the tach doesn't move while cranking during these situations so that points me to the ignition system. Most recently, I reseated the powerstage connector and then the car started. Once I got the car home I took out the powerstage, cleaned the contacts thoroughly as well as the connector, applied some dielectric grease and reinstalled.

#2) One morning the car was running rough, AFR was full rich all the time and had no power. Reseating the MAF sensor connector fixed that issue, so I also took the time to thoroughly clean that connector & contacts and apply dielectric grease.

While I was cleaning contacts, I also cleaned and retightened all ground connections in the engine bay for good measure. I haven't put many miles on the car since doing this so the jury is still out on if I truly fixed the issues or not.
Gotta love our electrical gremlins, on the way home from work today, I was stopped at a light glanced down, and noticed my tach was stuck at 2k. I jabbed the throttle and it didn't move, I quickly turned the car off, tach went to 0, fired it back up, and it's worked perfectly since. I don't even.
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Old 08-14-2016, 10:22 PM   #73
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Something I've been noticing is that my car sits higher in the front than the rear. It's lower than it was originally, but I wish it was dropped a bit more in the front. The springs are the old black ipd springs (no marking, but that's how they were described when I bought them). I do have 15A's strut plates in the front. However the car does not have power steering or a/c which may be the reason...idk. I don't really want to take apart the struts again, but maybe cutting the dead coils off of the front springs would drop it down a bit.

Old side profile pic for reference:
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Old 08-20-2016, 10:04 PM   #74
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Borrowed a friend's orbital buffer and cleaned up the paint. It still has some areas with deep scratches but it's a big improvement over what it was, I'm content.

I also swapped on some Virgos.



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Old 08-20-2016, 11:08 PM   #75
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YES YES YES
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