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Old 03-06-2016, 05:36 PM   #51
Tfrasca
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Where did you get the new seat foam? I don't see it on the VP website but I want to redo my front seats.
http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...tno=1401100401

I should note that when I ordered foam, they didn't have an item labeled "front foam, not GL". I ordered upper and lower foam for both front seats, but the upper ones were much too wide. I tried cutting them down, but it didn't work out for me. So, only the lower foam is new in my front seats. I'd definitely talk to Mattias at VP when you order.
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Old 03-06-2016, 05:42 PM   #52
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Lookin good. I have a m41 now I need to figure out.

Where did you yet that exhaust?
I've only had the M41 in for 12 hours now, but it's already one of the best mods I've done. Cruising at freeway speeds almost 1000 rpm lower really changes the car. The swap was really straight forward. Make sure you have the crossmember from the M41 car, as well as the speedo cable (and the 90 degree fitting, ideally), and obviously the driveshaft. I don't know what year your car is, but if it's an early one, you'll need to use the early style driveline support, as the newer one is too wide to fit the narrow tunnel.

This is my exhaust:

http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...cle&artno=071K
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:48 PM   #53
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wow nice. the exhaust looks bigger in the installed pic... mellow sound? mufflers look big.

how are you running the OD? original stalk?

my 144 is a 68. it has a 4.10 diff but everyone seems to think all early 140s came with 4.30s.... later cars had 4.10 for m40

any tips on telling the difference between a early axle and late? i know the drivelines are bigger. i could line up the 71 142e to the 68 144s


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Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
I've only had the M41 in for 12 hours now, but it's already one of the best mods I've done. Cruising at freeway speeds almost 1000 rpm lower really changes the car. The swap was really straight forward. Make sure you have the crossmember from the M41 car, as well as the speedo cable (and the 90 degree fitting, ideally), and obviously the driveshaft. I don't know what year your car is, but if it's an early one, you'll need to use the early style driveline support, as the newer one is too wide to fit the narrow tunnel.

This is my exhaust:

http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...cle&artno=071K
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:50 PM   #54
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make sure the axle vent is clear. they can clog up and blow oil when the diff heats up

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This will probably be leaking in the next couple hundred miles:
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:53 PM   #55
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142's rock.
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:04 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...tno=1401100401

I should note that when I ordered foam, they didn't have an item labeled "front foam, not GL". I ordered upper and lower foam for both front seats, but the upper ones were much too wide. I tried cutting them down, but it didn't work out for me. So, only the lower foam is new in my front seats. I'd definitely talk to Mattias at VP when you order.
Thanks for the link, I've looked through that site so many times for foam and never been able to see it. How long did the upholstery take to show up after you ordered?
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:38 PM   #57
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Thanks for the link, I've looked through that site so many times for foam and never been able to see it. How long did the upholstery take to show up after you ordered?
The covers came from Sweden, so it took a couple weeks, if I recall.
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:44 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by NO_SPRK View Post
wow nice. the exhaust looks bigger in the installed pic... mellow sound? mufflers look big.

how are you running the OD? original stalk?

my 144 is a 68. it has a 4.10 diff but everyone seems to think all early 140s came with 4.30s.... later cars had 4.10 for m40

any tips on telling the difference between a early axle and late? i know the drivelines are bigger. i could line up the 71 142e to the 68 144s
Yeah, the exhaust is really mellow. I think it's really similar to the stock fuel injected car's exhaust. It's not loud at all, but I ran it with only the front muffler the other day and it sounded much sportier.

I'm running the OD off the OE style stalk, no relay. I was going to use a different switch on the dash, but I like having it close to my hand.

The only early/late experience I have is between my 70 and my 68. On those two cars, the drivelines are the same size, but the 70 had the later style center support with the spring on the bottom. The 68 just has a rubber donut around the bearing. I was able to run the old center support and bearing on the driveline, but who knows if it was the original 1970 144 driveline.

The rear axle that came off the 70 has the newer, non-adjustable wheel bearings, but other than that it looks identical. The end play on our 1968 axles is adjustable. Also, my 1968 142 M40 also had 4.10's.
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Old 03-07-2016, 02:30 AM   #59
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And where is that? I'd love to get a crack-free dash in this thing.
Lake Stevens wa. Maybe greyhound or ups, or if you're not in a hurry, I can meet you somewhere along I5 in late June or early July.
They might crush this week though. I need to call them to make sure
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Old 04-03-2016, 11:32 AM   #60
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Not much exciting has happened with the 142 lately, as I've been taking care of Stage 0 stuff like oil leaks and massive interior rain water leakage.

One thing I did that vastly improved the night driving experience is get some lights in my GT cluster. My cluster came with no lighting or harness, so I had to wire it up and source bulb sockets. It's not as bright or nice as a Roger P. job, but I ran some warm white LED's in the stock bulb position, and I really like the result.

I like that they are still backlit, like stock - only bright enough to see now. I actually left the lower speedo bulb socket empty so it would better match the tach, and I'm definitely not missing the extra light.

Anyway, just figured I'd share, in case anyone else was looking for gauge lighting options on a budget.



Referenced with stereo deck for brightness:

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Old 04-03-2016, 03:51 PM   #61
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that looks good, your heater controls look a lot brighter than mine.
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Old 04-03-2016, 04:17 PM   #62
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that looks good, your heater controls look a lot brighter than mine.
I forgot to mention that I bypassed the rheostat entirely, so all the bulbs are getting full amperage. Maybe that's why my heater knobs are brighter?
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:53 AM   #63
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I forgot to mention that I bypassed the rheostat entirely, so all the bulbs are getting full amperage. Maybe that's why my heater knobs are brighter?
Where is that harness getting power? My GT cluster didnt have a place to pick up the power so I used the clock wiring.
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Old 04-04-2016, 02:11 PM   #64
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Where is that harness getting power? My GT cluster didnt have a place to pick up the power so I used the clock wiring.
I picked up power from the 12v pin on the back of the circuit board. I forget which one exactly, but I found the wire that was switched 12v when the lights are on, and soldered my harness to that.
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:00 AM   #65
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I picked up power from the 12v pin on the back of the circuit board. I forget which one exactly, but I found the wire that was switched 12v when the lights are on, and soldered my harness to that.
Thanks I'll look into that next time the dash is apart!
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:00 AM   #66
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This thing is badass man keep it up I'm in the eastbay if you need anything
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:43 AM   #67
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This thing is badass man keep it up I'm in the eastbay if you need anything
Thanks, man!
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Old 04-29-2016, 12:21 PM   #68
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I'm changing up the 142 a bit. I had these Ford 16x7's leftover from my 144. They're 5x114.3, so I had to run adapters on the 144 and they always poked WAY too much on that car. The fenders were aggressively rolled and they still rubbed. I always loved the wheels, though, so I had them redrilled to 5x108.



I fit them on the front, and am happy with how they are sitting. I had some rubbing at full lock, so I rolled/pinched the fender lips to give me ample clearance. During this process, I found out that the front lower half of my passenger fender is made of Bondo. Not ideal, but it looks fine from the outside. I'll get in there with some undercoating to seal it up again.





Obvious damage in this area. You can see where a respray was attempted many years ago. The fender lip has heavy scratches, but is straight. Given the paint on the rest of the car, I'm not concerned at all.



Like I said: the paint is bad. I have been cleaning/cutting/polishing it in spots and I really lie the effect. Just polishing right over all that patina is going to look good. I am going to bring it by the body shop next week to get a ballpark on what a pro job would cost. When they quote me above $500, I'll borrow a friend's DA polisher and attempt it myself.



This weekend I hope to get the rears mounted. It will take some trimming of the rear fender lips, but it should clear fine once some material is moved.
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:35 PM   #69
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Looks great! Who did the redrill and how much did it run you?

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Old 04-29-2016, 01:38 PM   #70
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California Wheels on Capitol in San Jose. It was a bit spendy at $75/wheel, but it was my best option since I already had the wheels and tires.
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:49 PM   #71
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Happy with the work they did? That seems pretty reasonable to me.
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:57 PM   #72
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$75 a wheel ain't that bad, they charged me $100 to fix an ovaled hole!

Looks great!!
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:16 PM   #73
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Ah ha! So you're the guy that I heard about driving a lowered 142 to California Wheels! Your car looks awesome on the Crown Vic wheels, BTW!

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Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
I'm changing up the 142 a bit. I had these Ford 16x7's leftover from my 144. They're 5x114.3, so I had to run adapters on the 144 and they always poked WAY too much on that car. The fenders were aggressively rolled and they still rubbed. I always loved the wheels, though, so I had them redrilled to 5x108.



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Originally Posted by Tfrasca View Post
California Wheels on Capitol in San Jose. It was a bit spendy at $75/wheel, but it was my best option since I already had the wheels and tires.
California Wheels redrilled my Style5 wheels, and they used the same conical inserts. Be sure and retorque them a few times once you drive around a bit. Mine settled, and I ended up retorquing 3 times to find a couple of slightly loosened lugnuts.



Just FYI, I got a slightly cheaper quote from ET Mags in San Leandro, at $250 to redrill all 4 wheels. That included dismounting, mounting, and balancing as well.
http://www.etmags.com/wheel_repair.html
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:19 PM   #74
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Ah ha! So you're the guy that I heard about driving a lowered 142 to California Wheels! Your car looks awesome on the Crown Vic wheels, BTW!





California Wheels redrilled my Style5 wheels, and they used the same conical inserts. Be sure and retorque them a few times once you drive around a bit. Mine settled, and I ended up retorquing 3 times to find a couple of slightly loosened lugnuts.



Just FYI, I got a slightly cheaper quote from ET Mags in San Leandro, at $250 to redrill all 4 wheels. That included dismounting, mounting, and balancing as well.
http://www.etmags.com/wheel_repair.html
Ha, yeah that was me. I also met a guy at the VW shop next door who has a 140, and a 240 with an LS swap. He told me his name on T-bricks, but I can't remember.

That price from ET Mags is good. my price didn't include dismounting or mounting- I had to strip the wheels and remount them myself.

Thanks for the heads up on the steel inserts. They definitely settled when I first torqued them, but I'll keep rechecking them.
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:19 PM   #75
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BTW, those Style 5's look REALLY good.
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