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Old 10-24-2017, 11:21 PM   #151
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I replied to a local Craigslist ad a while back selling an s60r that was missing various parts. The group buy for 7/9 s60r caliper adapters was gaining traction so I inquired about the calipers on the car. He didn't want to part the car at the time. But today, out of the blue, he texted me and the part out is on. He wants $300 for the four calipers which I know is a good deal, but now the group buy seems to have lost said traction.

The best news of all of this is he has the green giant injectors that are more of a priority to me right now. $40 seems like a no brainier. I'm gonna pick them up tomorrow. They have 93k miles on them. What do you all suggest, if anything, for refreshing these injectors. New o rings I assume. I own an ultrasonic machine..

Also, is there anything else useful I should ask about in the part out?
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Old 10-24-2017, 11:32 PM   #152
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Buy the calipers anyways. Good deal.

Doesn't lmr make adapters if that GB does fail?
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Old 10-24-2017, 11:47 PM   #153
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Buy the calipers anyways. Good deal.

Doesn't lmr make adapters if that GB does fail?
I don't think the lmr ones work with kaplhenke's roll correctors. Also a matter of dollars.
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Old 10-25-2017, 10:34 PM   #154
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Tonight, I pulled apart the stock igniter and stole the heatsink. I used my tap and die set to tap the first hole in my life. It worked surprisingly well and my j702t igniter now bolts down perfectly and will look factory. Thanks supreme940 for the info.

I got my wires loosely laid out and twisted all my connections together. I checked everything twice. Turned the key and I could tell it wanted to fire up but didn't. I've read several times during my research that 1-4 and 2-3 may need switched. I pulled apart my temporary connections and made the swap. It fired up immediately and nice and smoothly. Another local friend also had to swap those two connections, in case anyone else has that issue.

This was all quite exciting. It was really my first dive into wiring anything. Tomorrow, I'm going to hopefully hard mount everything. I've got to pick up some heat shrink and heatsink paste still. But then I'm going to get some more soldering experience and finalize all the connections. I'm excited to finish this small project.

Last edited by soclosenotnear; 10-27-2017 at 09:48 AM.. Reason: Grammar
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Old 10-26-2017, 12:37 PM   #155
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Nice work! Both of the Buchaspark boards I've wired had the outputs swapped, despite their claims that problem doesn't exist! I wire nutted mine together for a neighborhood test drive..... just don't leave it that way, or the first time it rains you will be walking. If you can make it look "factory" and not "TB style", you will have outperformed the average!
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Old 10-26-2017, 05:48 PM   #156
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Originally Posted by soclosenotnear View Post
I don't think the lmr ones work with kaplhenke's roll correctors. Also a matter of dollars.
https://www.stsmachininginc.com/prod...embo-s60r-v70r

Whether those conflict with the BNE QSRCs is unknown to me.
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Old 10-26-2017, 08:38 PM   #157
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https://www.stsmachininginc.com/prod...embo-s60r-v70r

Whether those conflict with the BNE QSRCs is unknown to me.
Per the group buy, this first design does not work with them. Also, it says only up to 1994 for some reason. No bueno for me.
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Old 10-26-2017, 10:15 PM   #158
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Nice work! Both of the Buchaspark boards I've wired had the outputs swapped, despite their claims that problem doesn't exist! I wire nutted mine together for a neighborhood test drive..... just don't leave it that way, or the first time it rains you will be walking. If you can make it look "factory" and not "TB style", you will have outperformed the average!
The swapped output thing has been acknowledged. I believe it was a firmware issue. I added a note to my product page for the board, and as far as I know, it affects the entire batch.
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:18 PM   #159
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This is what $40 gets me. Seem legit with the right part number off an '05 s60r. O rings seem fine to me so I guess just run them? I still have to find/buy an 012 amm to go with them.

I got my solders done and heat shrinked for the wasted spark setup. I could not find heatsink paste of any kind at any of the auto parts near me. Google says Walmart and best buy, so should be fine tomorrow. Really the main thing left is making a bracket to hold the coil. Oh! Another question, I got the 702 igniter for the tach driver. Do I connect that to... Which wire to regain my tach? Will read on it.

I'm looking forward to taking my distributor off. To plug the hole, is it really just that cap thing? I have one of those plates to hold the cap in place also.
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Old 10-29-2017, 08:19 PM   #160
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So, I will not complete my project on this vacation (5 days in a row off). What can I say, I work slow. I got some quality time in with the fam and helped my brother a bit with his car. So, that took priority.

I searched all through town for some sort of heatsink paste. AutoZone, advance Auto, O'Reilly's and Walmart turned up nothing in stock. Best buy had this. It ought to do the trick.



It said apply directly on to the surface so this is what I came up with.



Put it all together and it bolts to the inner fender like the factory unit. How far do people go as far as removing the stock igniter wiring and connector? I can't imagine ever reverting.



I haven't tested yet, but to answer my own question, it seems connecting the red/white wire from the stock igniter harness to the tach out on this j702t igniter *should* give me a working tach. We'll see soon enough.

I will say i am not so sure of myself making a nice pretty bracket to mount the coil on where I want it. I seem to had forgotten my metal working skills and tools are near nil. I made a couple rough drafts but even in card board, they weren't what I want them to be. I may reevaluate this but I really want it where a 240 distributor lives.
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Old 10-30-2017, 02:17 PM   #161
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This is what $40 gets me. Seem legit with the right part number off an '05 s60r. O rings seem fine to me so I guess just run them? I still have to find/buy an 012 amm to go with them.......

.....I'm looking forward to taking my distributor off. To plug the hole, is it really just that cap thing? I have one of those plates to hold the cap in place also.
Those injectors look legit; the rip offs won't have the VOLVO PN on the opposite side, and they have multiple slots at the rail end connection (yours have only one, Volvo fuel rail only). Fuelinjectorconnection in ATL will clean them & flow them for $12 each, plus shipping. Of course, you can run "as is" without the peace of mind. Your wallet will decide.

Re. the distributor less mods, you need (1) the 15A plate to cover and hold (2) the sealing plug, which is pressed into the end of the #5 cam bearing. I think I put anaerobic sealant around that plug before I installed the cover plate. I've honestly forgotten, but details are in my thread. There is an OE PN for the plug you need.
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Old 10-30-2017, 02:52 PM   #162
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I appreciate you always coming through with the info I need. I have both the plug and plate to block the distributor, just wasn't sure if I were missing anything else.

I am going to work on getting this coil bracket made, but don't be surprised if I don't come hounding you for a detailed list of what you used for your bracket. I know it's all in your build thread, but I'm still unclear.

And as far as the injectors, I'll likely just run them. $12 per seems reasonable, but would more than double the cost of them.

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Old 10-30-2017, 03:42 PM   #163
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That ignition module looks almost identical to mine. Sorry i didnt get a pic, slipped my mind.
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Old 11-12-2017, 08:31 PM   #164
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Welp, my car is officially running and driving again. I pulled the distributor cap and then distributor off. I used an ipd (or similar) blocking plate behind the cam seal. Surprising how heavy the coil is. And it is nice having space behind the head.



My bracket design changed several times before I settled on this. It came out ok and will hopefully hold up forever. But my weld is poor and it vibrates as much as the engine does. Only time will tell. Here's some pictures of the process.



This rudimentary outline turned into this.






The idea was to be able to use 240 wires and that worked ok. Add some new plug wires to the list though as these are unknown mileage/condition. The zip ties will eventually be bolts. And I will buy a sheath to cover the wiring. Then it'll be hard to tell anything is too out of the ordinary. The red/white wire from the factory igniter connected to the yellow/blue of my Miata j702t iginter gave me a working tach, so no relay or anything needed.

The immediate to do list is still just getting boost dialed in perfectly again. It hits 7 psi and rises to about 12 psi by the end of the rev range. Gotta fiddle with the wastegate actuator and/or mbc I imagine.
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Old 11-17-2017, 04:07 PM   #165
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I got my first real drive time in today on the way to work. I raised the MBC shooting for a stable 15 psi. But now, it seems to lose spark above 10 psi. That's what it feels like anyways. I can ride the gear out longer and get it a little higher than 10 psi but it still loses power eventually.

The plug wires are oe Volvo but unknown condition. Plugs were fine (unknown origin, installed by previous owner) before the wasted spark swap but a buddy said some spark plugs don't like wasted spark. I have some ngk bpr7es I can try if that might help?

Anything else that could be my issue? Or am I headed in the right direction?

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Old 11-17-2017, 04:09 PM   #166
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You will definitely need the 7ESs. I'd gap them to .025-.028".
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Old 11-19-2017, 06:37 PM   #167
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I think my problem was just the wires not making good contract against the coil pack. Very typical of myself to not notice. I think I will eventually remake/move my bracket to use the 940 plug wires again. But I had to crimp the fittings a bit on the 240 wires to make them snap in to place, as well as adjust the boots further up. I used some dielectric grease and swapped in the bpr7es plugs anyways. It now pulls smoothly to 16 psi. Afrs look good to boot with stock injectors so far. Gonna try and log some miles now.

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Old 11-20-2017, 05:49 PM   #168
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PSA

It is cold outside. Check your tire pressure! All four of mine were low, some lower than others. And I could sure use new tires. Lots more sitting than miles on these.

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Old 12-06-2017, 12:14 PM   #169
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I'm trying to order parts for my 3" amm/heat shield/green giant injectors install.

I'm working with a do88 3" inlet hose and a bsr heat shield that I'll have to cut to accept a 3" amm.

I feel like I've read the factory 90° bend between the filter and amm is needed to create some sort of air swirl. Is their any truth to that or did I make that up? I've had an air filter stuck on the end of my amm for a couple thousand miles now but am trying to make a permanent solution. Can anyone comment on if I should try and work that 90° bend into my air box or just plop the filter right on the end of the amm?
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Old 12-06-2017, 01:43 PM   #170
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I'm trying to order parts for my 3" amm/heat shield/green giant injectors install.

I'm working with a do88 3" inlet hose and a bsr heat shield that I'll have to cut to accept a 3" amm.

I feel like I've read the factory 90° bend between the filter and amm is needed to create some sort of air swirl. Is their any truth to that or did I make that up? I've had an air filter stuck on the end of my amm for a couple thousand miles now but am trying to make a permanent solution. Can anyone comment on if I should try and work that 90° bend into my air box or just plop the filter right on the end of the amm?
I've never heard of the 90* bend air swirl thing. Been running the do88 3" inlet hose on my 945T for years with no noticeable issues. Fitment for the BSR heat shield might be an issue, though, as it pushes the air filter closer to the fender. I can't find a picture of mine, but I can share one later.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:29 PM   #171
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I feel like I've read the factory 90° bend between the filter and amm is needed to create some sort of air swirl. Is their any truth to that or did I make that up? I've had an air filter stuck on the end of my amm for a couple thousand miles now but am trying to make a permanent solution. Can anyone comment on if I should try and work that 90° bend into my air box or just plop the filter right on the end of the amm?
The only recommendation I've read was that a certain length of "straight flow" be put in front of the AMM. You might search BOSCH data (there is no magic here unique to Volvo) to see..... I'm thinking it was essentially 1 to 1.5 diameter(s) of straight pipe in front of the AMM. I believe they are avoiding flow "converging" from open space to the AMM. From my old engineering days, they may want "laminar flow" I suspect passing across the AMM instrument. I'm betting BOSCH has an application guide or similar, online which will show you the light.

Most likely, you can IGNORE what you read on TB, regarding this subject...... more urban legend I would expect.
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:47 AM   #172
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Alright, will likely go with only a filter attached to the amm. Here are some pictures of my newly received bsr heat shield since I couldn't find any when I was considering ordering. At least I couldn't find any that showed how it mounted, etc.









Apparently my heat shield is only good for 300hp
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:55 AM   #173
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That looks like a dead wringer for my EuroSport Tuning air box. Despite common belief, this wouldn't be easy to fab. "from cardboard templates" due to the complicated geometry at the wheel well sheet metal. Is that one sized for a 3" AMM? Mine fits only the 2.5" AMM.

FWIW, I was fit checking my 19t yesterday and do88 inlet (suction) hose. I didn't check the factory hose, but the do88 (sized for the 3" AMM) didn't match up well with the stock location of the AMM hole. I'm going to be fabbing an add on plate with the 3" mount for the AMM, custom located to work with the larger hose. I don't recall now if do88 offered a different hose for the Garrett and MITSU; regardless I'm going to make what I have work.

What cone type filter are you using? I'm going to look by K&N and see if I can find a dry element MANN type filter. I have a spare K&N with another 3" AMM, but I'm going to try and not use it. If you have interest in that one, shoot me a PM.

Last edited by DET17; 12-10-2017 at 11:02 AM..
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Old 12-10-2017, 07:50 PM   #174
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I had literally ten minutes to tinker on the car before the family loaded up to go to the local Christmas parade. I shoved it in there. To fit perfectly, the do88 house would need trimmed. This is with the 2.5" hose/amm. Also, the filter(at least this one) needs to be angled slightly to not hit the wall of the air box, like the setup bsr offers. I haven't had the factory air box installed in some time, so maybe there is a part I could use so that the bottom mount of the air box bolts in. As of now, I only used one bolt to lock the new air box in place.





This last picture shows the top mount used and the lack of the bottom mount. Hopefully I just need to dig out my factory air box and see if their is something reused.


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Old 12-10-2017, 08:00 PM   #175
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That looks like a dead wringer for my EuroSport Tuning air box. Despite common belief, this wouldn't be easy to fab. "from cardboard templates" due to the complicated geometry at the wheel well sheet metal. Is that one sized for a 3" AMM? Mine fits only the 2.5" AMM.

FWIW, I was fit checking my 19t yesterday and do88 inlet (suction) hose. I didn't check the factory hose, but the do88 (sized for the 3" AMM) didn't match up well with the stock location of the AMM hole. I'm going to be fabbing an add on plate with the 3" mount for the AMM, custom located to work with the larger hose. I don't recall now if do88 offered a different hose for the Garrett and MITSU; regardless I'm going to make what I have work.

What cone type filter are you using? I'm going to look by K&N and see if I can find a dry element MANN type filter. I have a spare K&N with another 3" AMM, but I'm going to try and not use it. If you have interest in that one, shoot me a PM.
No, this one is only for the 2.5" amm. It will need cut. I am going to move the hole as much inward as possible and might trim a smidge off the 3" do88 hose since my fitment was similar to yours.

I think I might pm you when funds allow since I still haven't found my 012 amm that I knew I had. Otherwise, I haven't looked much into filters. It looks like this cheap, old and broken filter I have right now can open up to fit the 3" amm if I had to.
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