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Old 07-25-2016, 04:12 AM   #26
2fast242gt
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Very cool! I'm using tko 600 as well. I'm using a Ford tko.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:45 AM   #27
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Woohoo! Pedals: sorted.
Ground a bit off the backside of the clutch pedal's tab so my yoke could rotate (https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10262, for the curious), and painted it. Everything else was just assembly :D
Beyond that, still slogging through little wiring details and figuring out the fuel system (decided to put the Corvette filter/regulator in the location usually occupied by the Bosch filter, and run the requisite 8ft of AN6 up to the engine), but I haven't had much shop time in the last few weeks.




It's worth noting: with the steering column mounted to the pedal hanger, the column assumes an angle that pushes it away from the manifold, giving it plenty of clearance, so I was worried about that ... for no reason.
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Old 08-08-2016, 02:39 AM   #28
2fast242gt
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I just finished my tko600 swap, it shifts amazing. Remember to dial indicate the bellhousing!
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Old 08-08-2016, 02:42 AM   #29
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Yup, did that. Once you've got the engine and transmission installed, it's a little late for that, lol.

Edit: Well, that's owing mainly to my hydraulic slave cylinder that requires the trans+bell to be installed together, YMMV.
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:49 AM   #30
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Are you sticking with the stock pumps or changing to a higher pressure? These engine require 60psi to the fuel rail.
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:16 PM   #31
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I'm starting out with 740TI pumps; the transfer pump should be sufficient, and if the main pump isn't, it should be a straight swap to an -044.
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Old 08-08-2016, 02:56 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vertigosity View Post
Yup, did that. Once you've got the engine and transmission installed, it's a little late for that, lol.

Edit: Well, that's owing mainly to my hydraulic slave cylinder that requires the trans+bell to be installed together, YMMV.
Well hopefully it doesn't cause issues like it does for many, it can ruin your input shaft bearings and cause shifting problems. Your only allowed .005
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Old 08-08-2016, 03:29 PM   #33
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i did a corvette regulator and im running a single walbro 255 and i got solid pressure at the rail. just make sure if you do a single intank pump that you relay it and run bigger wiring to it, i ripped out all the stock wiring and relays and i have megasquirt controling the fp relay with a fused 10g wire off the power block by the battery
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Old 09-07-2016, 06:37 PM   #34
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Bought and installed a single-piece driveshaft... one more piece in place. With the TKO on an M46 crossmember + STSmachining adaptor + Energy poly bushing, you will realistically need a 1310-sized Yoke (of which, a Neapco N2-3-15631X is basically the only available option), and use AW70 drop spacers. 46" yoke-to-yoke, 3" tubing, and aluminum because why not.

Still hacking through interior integration + instrumentation wiring... some random shots:
Fuel pump:

Instrument cluster set in place to get the wire lengths right:


Should be a pretty quick run-up to a test-fire, assuming I don't spend too much time being anal about wire lengths and making pretty Metripack connections
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:34 PM   #35
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Have fun with the 740ti pump.... Be careful at fuller throttle with that
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:44 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vertigosity View Post
Bought and installed a single-piece driveshaft... one more piece in place. With the TKO on an M46 crossmember + STSmachining adaptor + Energy poly bushing, you will realistically need a 1310-sized Yoke (of which, a Neapco N2-3-15631X is basically the only available option), and use AW70 drop spacers. 46" yoke-to-yoke, 3" tubing, and aluminum because why not.

Still hacking through interior integration + instrumentation wiring... some random shots:
Fuel pump:

Instrument cluster set in place to get the wire lengths right:


Should be a pretty quick run-up to a test-fire, assuming I don't spend too much time being anal about wire lengths and making pretty Metripack connections
Why are using a stock Volvo pump, Why not get rid of that and use a walbro intank pump?
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:38 PM   #37
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Already had one around as a spare for the '80, they're pretty easy to find in junkyards, and seem to last forever. Figured if it proved insufficient, it'd be a direct swap to an -044.

Actually, I'm pretty sure I got an -044 with Spoon's 242 (which I got this past weekend), might go ahead and do that shortly.
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:05 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vertigosity View Post
Already had one around as a spare for the '80, they're pretty easy to find in junkyards, and seem to last forever. Figured if it proved insufficient, it'd be a direct swap to an -044.

Actually, I'm pretty sure I got an -044 with Spoon's 242 (which I got this past weekend), might go ahead and do that shortly.
They flow less and this setup needs a constant 60psi of fuel pressure
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Old 09-08-2016, 11:09 PM   #39
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Quote:
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They flow less and this setup needs a constant 60psi of fuel pressure
Mine runs a 50 psi after before the rail after the fuel pressure regular. No problems
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Old 09-08-2016, 11:24 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 77volvo245 View Post
Mine runs a 50 psi after before the rail after the fuel pressure regular. No problems
I was having problem with the stock lh2.4 intake and 044. Replaced with walbro 255 cured higher throttle issues.
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Old 09-08-2016, 11:31 PM   #41
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Quote:
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They flow less and this setup needs a constant 60psi of fuel pressure
They = the 740TI pump, or they = 740TI as well as the -044?

The NA 240 in-tank pump from my '80 was inadequate for an 8VT... I was planning on starting with a 740TI in-tank ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Old 09-09-2016, 10:13 AM   #42
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fun thread. how ya liking the dorman intake besides the evap issue?
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Old 09-09-2016, 11:53 AM   #43
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There was a drought of LS1/6 takeoffs on LS1tech when I got it. Not a bad part for the price, although I did (won't say /have/ to, but wanted to) deburr the ports a bit with a pocketknife when I got it. The one thing that's a bit sketchy: fuel rails, MAP, and EGR blockoff mount with wood screws into the nylon. Seems mounted well enough, but that's probably enough to keep it in the territory of "good for a stock replacement, good for a Turbobricker's s***ty semi-budget build, etc."
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Old 10-11-2016, 01:11 AM   #44
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After a few hours of final assembly and weekends of wiring, I went for a test-fire this past weekend. Aaaaand... the 8A tank pump fuse pops, and somehow pops my fuseblock's 20A fuse doing it... It's probably a stupid ground fault somewhere; more like likely I screwed something up when I swapped the tank pump, and will need to go back into the tank. (insert all the expletives here)

On the bright side, the computer communicates, the DBW throttle functions, and it fires on ether, so I've got that going for me :D

Time to start collecting stuff for restomodding the shell, and shaking Kaplhenke down for suspension parts!

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Old 11-17-2016, 03:07 AM   #45
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Pulled the tank pump because my voltmeter read low resistance for it, but that was a red herring, a quick internet search said they're supposed to be. As it would be, a fuel pump I pulled from my '80 and put in a zip-lock bag while diagnosing something that turned out not to be a fuel pump a long time ago... was now actually bad. Fortunately, I had a Porsche 928S K-jet pump, with the right fittings, already on hand in the boxes of stuff I got with Spoon4364's 242! Also, I was trying to trigger the system relay off fuse #13, which is hot in crank and run on K-Jet, LH2.0, and LH2.2 cars, but not on LH2.4 cars; switched that to fuse #5, which is the only fuse hot in crank and run I could find on LH2.4 cars. It also has the advantage of already being listed as "fuel injection" on my fuseblock, and should maintain the 240-specific behavior of the engine dying on road trips after using a turn signal without having rotated the fuse for a while

So, multiple levels of fail, saying "go figure..." to myself, but ultimately, success! Achieved a self-sustaining reaction! These engines sound truly glorious with no exhaust on... and now that I've actually test-fired, my project planning Trello board is riddled with stuff to do next (that was either blocked by or being procrastinated on until I got to see it run).
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Old 11-17-2016, 10:09 AM   #46
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Awesome. Let's get some video.
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Old 11-18-2016, 02:13 AM   #47
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Yeah, but that means I'm either shooting over the dashboard through a windshield that's been sitting in a dusty room for two years as I crank, or I've gotta find somebody else to shoot. And nobody wants to see the "fifth start where I've got all the bugs worked out but still haven't made up an exhaust," video, anyways ;)
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Old 11-22-2016, 12:14 AM   #48
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Spent pretty much all of Saturday wrapping and looming wiring, and making it look ... pretty presentable, actually.

Sunday, I got the core support back on, and tried test-fitting the late 940 radiator/E-fan combo. Once again, I've deviated too far from "keep everything Truck" for everything to just work - the intake elbow and 5G-Camaro-style front-exit radiator hoses both want to be in the fan. I'll try to figure out how much extra clearance I need, see if I can swap to something like a Spal fan, or if I'm going to need to resection the core support to move the radiator forward, next time on !

(and yeah, get a test-fire video at some point where I've got enough stuff stabilized again, but I'd love to have coolant and an exhaust for the sake of the engine, and other people in my shop who aren't wearing fancy earmuffs, like the guy who'll have to stand there with a phone)
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Old 12-15-2016, 12:10 AM   #49
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Still no dramatically staged test-re-fire, but I did get to a checkpoint on engine bay stuff, with pretty much everything I wanted to do there, done:
  • Spal 16" medium profile fan mounted to a barely modified 940NA shroud
  • LS3 Corvette upper radiator hose
  • V6 01-07 Caravan upper radiator hose... trimmed, and used as a lower hose.
  • Heater hose run from the heater core, around the engine, to the water pump
  • Piecemealed Spectre intake: 90 degree coupler, 3" long tube segment, universal mount zig-zag-mounted to the back of the water pump, 30 degree coupler, air mass meter, to the (roughly 11") cone filter from a Silverado 9900 kit.
  • ECU mount moved to the inner fender
  • Relay bar from my wrecked '74 used to hold a 70's GM wiper bottle and the 240's original pumps

With everything in the engine bay in place, and the E-codes and grille in, it almost looks like a car (and not a piece of badly planned abstract art)!

Got suspension stuff ordered from Kaplhenke, and my fingers crossed that I'm near the top of his queue!
Next up: Piddling around with the dash and interior, and then probably not much of anything, it's gonna be 20 degrees outside this weekend
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Old 12-15-2016, 12:46 AM   #50
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Nice work man!
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