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Old 12-19-2016, 04:47 PM   #51
rallydallas
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Although it isn't the season to ask, did you get the Air Conditioner sorted? I'm constantly surprised how simple the Volvo stuff is--you should be able to leave all the Volvo stock stuff and run a 12V wire off the Volvo compressor on circuit to the GM PCM's "A/C request in" to have the fan forced on and the idle bumped. At least that's what some of my research indicates.

Edit: Hmm, in retrospect perhaps this doesn't apply?

Last edited by rallydallas; 12-19-2016 at 05:00 PM..
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Old 12-19-2016, 05:05 PM   #52
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My research is - if you have an early 512KB/red-blue ECU, or a 1MB/green-blue ECU from an S10 or Express van, you have the necessary circuit to do that (most of the DBW green-blue ECUs would not), but would still need to ground out the pin for the low pressure sensor, and either disable the DTC for the AC relay not existing, or just go ahead and use the relay to fire the compressor. More unverified research suggests that none of the GMs that had 12V AC request used electric fans though, so the firmware doesn't have a code for that, and will need the pressure sensor to trigger fans. The amount of unverified/mis-information on the topic is pretty staggering, though, so I decided to table it until the car is running and driving and I can do my own verification - it's easy enough to pull the belt to put an AC belt on, later, and not having the condenser in place will let me do a cam swap if I feel the need, and I've got bigger fish until the car's on the road.

That being said, I did wire everything to the ECU like an Express van through the '91-'93 hi/low switches, got an AC hose crimper, and -8 crimp end with the appropriate port for the pressure sensor. Whether or not that was a good idea...
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ - if the ECU and I don't get along, it won't be that hard to move the low and high switches to my relay, and use it directly without idle intervention. Or get crazy and use the AC idle booster from my '80 K-jet car ... or just let the DBW compensate on its own.
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Old 04-14-2017, 01:36 AM   #53
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Been quiet here the last few months, but I have made some pretty heavy progress.

My father and I had three straightforward Truetrac installations under our belts before we tackled this one - #4 is where it got interesting! I put too many shims on for the first test-fit, and ended up needing a case spreader to remove the carrier again (despite it popping in with a rubber mallet). Then, after restarting the shimming process, getting it in spec, and putting the lock plate and real bearings on, our measurements got unrepeatable - tracked the cause down to the bolt lock plate not centering on the neck of the carrier. All said, it ended up taking about 3 months to do a carrier swap (with a few weekends off for cold weather, working/driving track/autocross events, visiting friends out of town, maintenance on the real cars, etc) for something I hope I replace with an 8.8 before I break it, so I can use it on the stockish 4-cyl DD -

During all that, I've thrown a bit of time at getting the trailer light/brake wiring finished up so it'll have taillights, popping the rear quarterpanel out (actually went pretty smoothly, and it was the $400 question of whether the shell was worth that), cleaning the carpet so it shouldn't have to come out for a while, assembling front suspension (yay parts from Kaplhenke and IPD!) and ATS brakes, and finally the rear axle back in last weekend.

This Saturday, a TIG-welder-equipped friend and I are tackling the exhaust! I won't promise a "first drive" video, since that'll almost definitely jinx it, but there's not a lot I know about before it's ready for that...

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Old 04-15-2017, 11:05 PM   #54
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It lives! :D

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Old 04-16-2017, 10:24 AM   #55
M.H. Yount
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There ya go...
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Old 06-25-2017, 02:53 AM   #56
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Not pictured in the video from April: 0 oil pressure. At some point between its undocumented test-fire (2016/11) and the video (2017/04), the pump decided it didn't like slurping up oil anymore. To really throw salt in the wound, we needed a different 240V plug and some flanges we couldn't get in town, so the trip to the lift for exhaust work was a wash anyways.

Spent a week or two doing diagnostics to confirm that it didn't just need priming, tore it all down, pulled the engine out, put in a Melling mild upgrade pump with the pump and transfer tube packed full of assembly lube, rebuilt the car around it, and all is well mechanically now - 40psi on just the starter!

And two months later... my TIG-welder-equipped friend and I circled back up, and we built this!


Such stainless. Very exhaust. Woooooow :D

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Old 06-25-2017, 09:51 AM   #57
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Hopefully that fixed the issue, I had clobbered cam bearings and a bad cam retainer plate gasket and rear cover gasket.
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Old 07-21-2017, 01:55 AM   #58
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Over the weekend... my TIG-welder-equipped-friend and I finished the exhaust and got it test-fit and leak tested. Success!


That was the last piece of the puzzle preventing me from taking a test drive, to realize my intake was inadequately designed (it'll pinch the 90 degree elbow before the throttle body shut, throwing a MAF and DBW code, and putting the car into limp), clutch master was inadequately sized (some combination of broken math and bad internet research had me use a 5/8" CMC where 3/4 is the largest available AFAICT), and my ECU was inadequately tuned (a torque management parameter I missed prevented the engine from revving over 1600rpm, but that was an easy fix).

No progress for the next two weekends, SCCA AX and NASA TT back to back. Aaagh! Time to find some seats...

But ****, does it sound awesome!
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Old 07-21-2017, 04:10 AM   #59
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Look forward to hearing it....congrats on the progress. FWIW, I used 4" aluminum tubing and elbow on my intake. No problems with collapsing the elbow - however, be sure you get an air tight seal on all fittings/couplings between the maf sensor and the throttle body or that will throw a code/light the CEL as well. I had to chase that down on mine as part of the start up de-bugging.
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Old 08-15-2017, 12:22 AM   #60
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*Whew* - the past week and weekends have been a bit of a whirlwind. Also, first post with a blue username :D

Before last weekend:
Was drooling over BRZ seats, got a friend who has one to let me do a test fit of his in my '80... then promptly succumbed to project car fatigue and too-much-money syndrome, said a hearty "YOLO," and bought a set of Corbeau GTSIIs.

Last weekend:
Swapped the clutch master out for a bigger (3/4") one, and it worked perfectly! Didn't need a pedal stop, engages perfectly, good feel. Success!

Acquired a cobra-style intake (taking inspiration from the B234F+T parts bin I got from JohnMC when I bought his head and intake so many years ago), reworked my intake, and now it looks cleaner and as a bonus, doesn't get slurped in on throttle movement:


Impulse bought one of Runslikeapenguin's nickle VSS blockoff plates, since I wasn't using the sensor in my diff cover:


Over the last week:
Test drove, success! Used it as my exclusive daily driver for a week to get some break-in miles in, got 20mpg on some old gas and seafoam in mixed highway / city / light city hooning. Did a bunch of interior/trim work, and put my GTS2s in, and a set of Wagonmeister/DavidSamuels snowcap repops, taking it another step away from a sub-$500 ****box, towards being... whatever a step below pro-touring is - amateur-touring?

This past weekend:
Saturday, I got my break-in miles finished, and changed many fluids per procedure for both new part break-in and junkyard part reuse. Sunday, the SCCA Targa Southland multi-mode-rally terminated at my home track, and I went, primarily as an event worker for the local SCCA region. Worked a flag station for their lapping sessions, took Randy Pobst on a parts run (), did timing and scoring for their light-cone autocross ("track-cross")... and after the work was done, I got to play myself!



... 1.5 "track-cross" runs later, the car spit out the driveshaft. This is the part where everyone glares at me for not having a GoPro. But **** was it fun before that, and everything else worked as planned. Should have some action stills of the car later this week, as my mother is the track photog and pretty much guaranteed to have been paying attention

Yeah, what? The transmission yoke and axle flange are still on the car. Body contact at the back of the tunnel causing the U-joint's crossbar to punch out a circlip and encap? My father and I tried to play CSI: Turbobricks at the track, and couldn't come up with a definitive answer. I can say with certainty that the STS mount LSx+621 bellhousing+TKO combination puts the output shaft higher than the Redblock+Avalanche adapter+Mustang T5 - complicating driveshaft sizing issues, especially in a lowered car.

Drivetrain issues aside, it's:
1. Actually a pretty balanced power-to-weight-to-grip combination. Seriously, it's easy to quickly drive up to the limit of grip, but without going too far if I don't want to. On my first run, only driving in "feeling out a new and unfamiliar car" mode, I set a quicker time than a friend's reasonably well-prepped Miata, and more a few of the Targa participants. It also has the exact amount of extra oomph that I found lacking from my B234+15G combination in the '80.
2. Great to have a Kaplhenke-suspension-equipped 240 again. Properly adjusted Koni Race shock/struts are the bomb, and although I didn't shout about it much on the un-build-threaded '80, QSRCs are the missing link to lowered 240s feeling and handling awesome.
3. Also, the mopar318-kit ATS-V brake setup works magically with the ABS master cylinder, Wilwood proportioning valve, stock rear calipers, and Hawk HP+ pads all around.

Oh well, time to look for someone to make a 2pc driveshaft. To quote Randy Pobst - "Development!"
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Old 08-15-2017, 12:42 AM   #61
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Awesome...stop by my place anytime the too-much-money-itis is bothering you...

Nice work, glad you had some fun
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Old 08-15-2017, 12:53 AM   #62
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I'm good now, nice seats cure that disease
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Old 08-15-2017, 01:07 AM   #63
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Nice job - always a treat to see another one on the road.
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:26 AM   #64
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Postmortem on the carnage from the Targa Southland:
  • A torque rod bolt came loose
  • All four transmission-to-bellhousing bolts were loose. I used SAE bolts, of essentially correct thread, that were the correct size for some years of BBC, but were half a size small, where the LSx-adjusted reproduction 621 bellhousings... are apparently metric. The bolts you get with 240 lower ball joints (which I have a million of for some reason) are in fact, correct.
  • Either of those could have caused or been caused by (at least exacerbated) the driveshaft hitting the body under weight transfer
Holy fawk, I'm firing my mechanic (plot twist: it's me).

Don't have a pic (I always have my phone on the stereo playing music instead of ready to shoot pictures...) - but a stock M46 front section is exactly the right length for the TKO in this configuration, so I got the yoke adapted on, and it's held up in the last two weeks of extremely mixed DDing.

Got a late Mustang spare, and moved the roadside kit over from my wrecked '74.
Planning on working on adding a basic stereo some evening this week.

I plan on breaking it at the ARSCCA AX in Blytheville this coming weekend!

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Old 12-06-2017, 01:38 AM   #65
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Last few months of updates:
  • Took it to Blytheville and AXed it. Pretty fun. 400/250 isn't enough spring for this car, and that's way more apparent with the V8's power than it was with my budget B234FT setup.
  • Had problems with the car making a neighborhood-covering smoke cloud on startup, so I swapped the early truck valley cover for the LS6 arrangement (which is an upgrade to the PCV system), replaced the valve stem seals, and did a trunnion bearing upgrade kit at the advice of a friend who had experience racing LSxes. The oil consumption problem was fixed (likely from the PCV setup, as the stem seals weren't that bad, and the oil level in the intake was quite high), and it honestly made more power and had better tip-in throttle response (from not, y'know, slurping oil constantly). Seriously, if you've got an early LSx, do the LS6 valley cover ASAP.
  • Put a stereo in (2 way Pioneer speakers in the front HT-204/5 housings, and 3-ways in Retrosound housings in the back. For reference, their 2 ways fit in the shorter 204 housing, and the 3 ways won't fit even in the taller 205 housing), wired up the cruise control (which didn't work, and despite continued diagnosis, still won't), and put in a fuel pump check valve so I wouldn't have to regularly prime the pump 4 times to get the system pressurized.
  • Added a Car Chemistry exhaust baffle (they sell them at the National Corvette Museum track if you blow sound, and I impulse bought one while I was there with my Spec Miata) to take the edge off for highway driving. Doesn't spoil the perfect exhaust note from the Magnaflow, and does a perfect amount of sound deadening for highway cruising.
  • Painted and installed (using homemade spacers, long bolts from fastenal, and some miscellaneous HW from Home Depot) the trailer hitch I got with Spoon's 242, and put it on so I'd have a rear tie down if I needed to make a 450 mile flatbed ride, for some reason.
  • Took it to the Tail Of The Dragon with my local BMWCCA chapter (we do a yearly drive, and Memphis is far enough you really need to go as a group and make a long weekend out of it). Pretty good fun there, too. Got 24mpg @ ~75mph in typical annoying non-constant-speed traffic on the way there.
  • Towards the end of the day, smelled a hint of fuel but figured it was just sloshed out of the filler cap (which seems to happen with aftermarket caps). I /had/ been doing some cornering, after all.
  • Nope! The next morning, a fuel injector O-ring had split and shot out. I figured I had just nicked it during assembly, and having the check valve in the system just pushed it over the edge. Got a buddy to drive me into town (An 1hr30m round trip! I owed him big-time.) to get a pack of replacement ones. Drove home, all seemed well.
  • Took it to work in DD mode the following week. Nope! The ****ing wood-screw-into-plastic fuel rail mounting arrangement Dorman spec'ed for their replacement intakes stripped out, and the rail lifted itself clean off the engine. I think that pretty much kills any recommendation of it from me - if you're going to use one, get EZ-lok threaded inserts to use machine screws, don't even bother trying to use their mounting arrangement, unless you want a car-b-que. The problem didn't manifest itself until I had the check valve holding near-constant pressure on them while the car was off, and I owe the Flying Spaghetti Monster a case of beer for it not failing spectacularly while everything was at temperature.
  • Got a used LS6 intake. Observations: the throttle body section is a few MM further back, adding some clearance between the intake elbow and the radiator/e-fan. The nipple for the canister purge has no clearance issues, as the Dorman one had. The truck MAP sensor didn't really sit right or clear the intake even with the forward clip cut off, where it did with the Dorman, so I got a real LS1 MAP sensor.
  • I figured I'd switch to the used LS6 injectors that came with my intake, so I picked up some wiring adapters (ICT Billet) to try them out before permanently modifying my harness. Nope! The car ran extremely rough and threw injector control codes. I pulled 8 Orangetops out of storage and tried them (their flow rating is actually a margin of error away from LS6 injectors!), and it ran slightly better, but had the same code and still wasn't quite right. Checked the polarity of the wiring adapters - nope! All 8 are wired backwards (I'm guessing the earlier injector design of the Orangetops is less sensitive to that). So that's a hard fail on ICT Billet for that.
  • Because I hedged my bets on the used injectors being bad, I also got a set of ICT Billet injector spacers at the same time. Those are actually perfect. The common formula for using truck injectors in LS1/6 intakes involves popping off the plastic caps on the bottom, and putting normal Bosch-sized O-rings on the bottom. This works on many LS1/6 intakes (including my Dorman), but some people's LS1/6 intakes (including mine) can't seat them in this configuration. I swapped on a set of the smaller truck-specific O-rings, and they seated, and sealed perfectly. ICT Billet gets a win for that, where their wiring adapters didn't.
  • Win! Car is back in DD trim, ready for the winter with fresh A/S tires on Mach 1 wheels (235/45R17 fit, and 245/40R17 should as well come next tire purchase), and waiting on the next track / spirited driving event, to find the next failure...

Last edited by vertigosity; 12-06-2017 at 02:21 AM.. Reason: Mostly grammar.
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:04 AM   #66
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Nice update...thanks for the reliability tips on the LS!
Enjoy
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