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Old 06-10-2016, 09:27 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by t8fanning View Post
Also this should probably be a showroom thread.
I looked around for a "Build Thread" section, but considering the exterior appearance of my wagon and lack of a radio, I didn't think it belonged in the "Showroom" section...
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:13 PM   #27
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wait... where'd this come from?
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:29 PM   #28
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I looked around for a "Build Thread" section, but considering the exterior appearance of my wagon and lack of a radio, I didn't think it belonged in the "Showroom" section...
It will probably get moved here http://forums.turbobricks.com/forumdisplay.php?f=22 nice project BTW.
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:32 PM   #29
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nah man, there's a build/project subforum under showroom. Yours certainly looks no worse than any of mine. Those dekas work great with ms3, that's what I've got in my L33 turbo setup.

good work, where is cypress?
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:38 PM   #30
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Cool project!

I like the turbo placement.
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Old 06-10-2016, 03:43 PM   #31
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nah man, there's a build/project subforum under showroom. Yours certainly looks no worse than any of mine. Those dekas work great with ms3, that's what I've got in my L33 turbo setup.

good work, where is cypress?
When I broke the big block in my ford, and put the LM7 with a carb it really was underpowered. So I stole the MS3 gold & deka injectors from the wagon and used a HX55 and put it all together as a "test"

I figured it would be better learn how to tune it on the old LM7, so if I made a mistake it wouldn't be as expensive. Cypress is on the northwest side of Houston



This setup made 480 rwhp on 11.5 psi with 11 degrees of timing (87 octane) with just room temp water in the intercooler
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Old 06-10-2016, 03:53 PM   #32
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Cool build!
I wouldn't delete the ls1tech thread. I found in my build that sometimes you can gather info from both places. The LS stuff I usually searched there, the Volvo stuff I searched here and there are guys like Linuxman that are pretty sharp in both areas! He can bait em in with the turbo ls car and then thump em good with the purebred Volvo!
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:34 AM   #33
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Since the clearance for the hot side is tight in a few spots, I decided to reinstall the transmission before going any further. I originally had a newer model 80e installed, but decided to use an older one I have that has a Jake's D1 brake, and some other upgrade parts… including a billet Circle D converter that cost more that the rest of the car




The stock L33 / LM7 flex plate from a 4L60E, 4L65E, etc will not work with most 4L80e torque converters. The ring gear and converter bolts are in the right position, but the snout on the converter won't stick out far enough to engage the pilot hole in the back of the crankshaft. You could assemble it this way but the converter won't be centered right and would probably shake or eat the pump bushings in the transmission. A 4L80e specific flex plate with a spacer is required.

The incorrect flexplate:
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:35 AM   #34
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I also got a nice Griffin (Made in USA) 27 x 19 x 3 dual pass radiator with the bigger heat exchanger off eBay for $150 shipped, but when it showed up the build sticker on it shows 2006 … it looks like it was never installed, and is basically in perfect condition, hopefully it doesn't turn out to be a reject…



I chopped off 1" of the radiator support and the radiator fits pretty well. I haven't decided on what fans to use yet, I would like to use the one off the Lincoln Mark VIII but I am not sure if it will fit with a 4" down pipe or not.

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Old 06-19-2016, 09:48 AM   #35
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After searching for months for a decent used Made in USA transmission jack, I broke down and bought a cheap one from Northern Tool… that of course leaked immediately and was apparently built incorrectly with a check ball missing so it wouldn't lift… Punishment for buying a knock off of the original I suppose ... So I had to drive 40 miles to a different Northern Tool location and exchange it… the second one works, so I am about ready find out how much more transmission tunnel cutting will be required to clear the cooler lines on the "early" version of the 4l80e.



But that may have to wait… I grew up in northern MN and I can't take the combination of 80+% humidity and 90+ temps any more, I'm going to take a week or two off of car stuff and put a A/C unit in my new garage.




I had a 1.5 ton mini split in my l old garage and it was awesome, but they are almost all knock offs made in china now so this time I am going to put in a 2 ton central unit in the attic. Since Goodman is building an enormous factory about 15 miles from my house and Carrier is moving to Mexico it made my choice a lot easier.

Last edited by babbit bearings; 07-08-2016 at 12:13 AM..
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Old 06-21-2016, 11:06 AM   #36
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Are you aware of the several Volvo groups in Houston? We get together for various small and big events. There is a meet/Dyno day this Saturday. Let me know if you want to be added.

Nice build.
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Old 06-21-2016, 11:22 AM   #37
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Moved over to the Projects warehouse for ya.
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:21 PM   #38
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Are you aware of the several Volvo groups in Houston? We get together for various small and big events. There is a meet/Dyno day this Saturday. Let me know if you want to be added.

Nice build.
Sure. Eventually I am going to need tail light lenses, trim parts, etc so it would be good to meet so local people with Volvo connections. Where & when?
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:33 PM   #39
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Sure. Eventually I am going to need tail light lenses, trim parts, etc so it would be good to meet so local people with Volvo connections. Where & when?
The groups are on Facebook, if you have it. If so PM me your name and I can request to add you. The dyno/meet is on July 2nd at Eurocharged Performance on 2121 Brittmore 77043 starting around 9 AM.
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Old 06-21-2016, 01:01 PM   #40
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The groups are on Facebook, if you have it. If so PM me your name and I can request to add you. The dyno/meet is on July 2nd at Eurocharged Performance on 2121 Brittmore 77043 starting around 9 AM.
Well that is convenient, I work at MCFA.
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Old 06-21-2016, 11:00 PM   #41
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Just fyi this is the correct flywheel for the 4L80e the pilot is fully supported by the spacer.

Note that longer arp bolts 244-2902 are required to compensate for the 10 mm thick spacer.




Last edited by babbit bearings; 11-22-2016 at 10:45 AM..
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:36 PM   #42
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It rained a lot today making the temp in the garage more comfortable so I made a bit of progress. I am not particularly happy with the way the merge came out, but this is only the 3rd one I have ever made so I guess maybe if I keep trying maybe they will eventually get better… or not. I am not really sure if it is critical anyway.



And I am slowly putting the hot side together. I am not very good or very fast at tig, so it takes me a while to make much progress.



Not very good, but hopefully good enough.



I decided to add a slip joint after the 45 degree bend on the passenger side. I am pretty sure if I don't allow or some thermal growth something is either going to crack or break. 2" Sch 10 is 2.375 OD, so I ordered a foot of 2.5 x 2.375 304 stainless tube from metal supermarket. I am planning on having about 3" of overlap in the slip, but I am undecided about how much clearance is appropriate. I am guessing that .005" total or .0025 radial is enough, but honestly that is just a guess.

Suggestions?
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:41 PM   #43
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I also ended up cutting a big hole in the passenger side of the tunnel to add clearance for the transmission cooler lines.





I may have been able to just beat a dent into the tunnel, but this will allow plenty of room to get a wrench on both fittings without getting totally pissed off.

The result is pretty hideous, but it will be covered by insulation & some carpet so I suppose it is alright.



Side note: Having a 2 post lift & a real transmission jack is the only way to go for this type of project… I can't see myself ever going back to doing this on the floor.

Last edited by babbit bearings; 06-29-2016 at 10:17 AM..
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Old 07-01-2016, 11:54 PM   #44
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A bit more hotside progress. I honed the ID of the 2.5 304 tubing until it would barely slip over 2" sch 10 pipe and welded it to the 45 degree on the pass side. I am curious about how well it works out.



Brushed a bit it looks a little better, but not great.





Installed

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Old 07-02-2016, 12:58 AM   #45
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Mind if I come by and show ya some welding tricks? I'm in cypress too


** I should add that this is greatly relevant to my interests, as I have a 75 242 undergoing similar treatment.
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Old 07-03-2016, 09:56 AM   #46
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i got the exact same radiator. any pics of it sitting in there?
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:55 AM   #47
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i got the exact same radiator. any pics of it sitting in there?
I confirmed that it will easily fit with my relocated lower radiator support, but I don't have the mounts done yet. It probably will not fit under the hood if you set it on top of the standard lower radiator support.

Once i have the hotside finished I will probably start on the radiator, shroud, etc. I need to find one of the large electric fans used on the newer volvo's, not sure which one is the best/easiest to retrofit.
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Old 07-06-2016, 11:56 AM   #48
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Some more hot side test fit.


.
The Iphone camera seems to distort this photo, the turbo flange really is pretty close to level.


.


and brain fade on one flange bolt.

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Old 07-07-2016, 07:28 AM   #49
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Awesome! Love the pipe fittings!
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Old 07-08-2016, 12:32 AM   #50
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It is pretty hot out this time of year in Houston, but I am still getting a little work done every night after work.

I still need to make a decision on the waste gate(s) for this car. On my old Ford coupe I used twin TIAL 38 mm waste gate valves, even with the fairly small turbo it easily allows boost levels below 5 psi, but on this build I am thinking about just getting a single 50 mm TIAL and putting small merge together to save a bit of money since they are pretty expensive.

Some pics of the nearly finished hot side:



The 4" dia. down pipe will be moderately close to the front of the alternator, but I plan on adding some fiberglass wrap and if needed a heat shield to protect the alternator.



The 4" down pipe for reference:







No hood clearance issues.



The support for the turbo using just the drivers side manifold is surprisingly rigid, I really doubt it will have any issues supporting the weight since the lever arm is fairly short. The passenger side is still providing rotational support, and seems to be a pretty good idea so far. I really don't think this setup will have thermal expansion issues, but I certainly didn't do any modeling or FEA, so only a few thousand miles of street driving will prove the concept…




I am going to have to cut out a bit more of the drivers side inner fender, but I am going to box it back in again after sorting out the air cleaner, so I don't have any real worries about the body sagging, it really doesn't support much anyway….I suppose front impact is a different story, but that isn't really the main objective here…
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