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Old 07-08-2016, 11:49 PM   #51
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The fit up of the air inlet pipe and air cleaner is not going to be as good as I had planned. My initial estimate made it look like a 4" silicone 90 degree bend would barely fit inside the inner fender with a simple 5.25" diameter hole…


.


yeah, that isn't happening. a 4" diameter 16 ga. metal tube wouldn't even fit, so the hole started growing.




Now I have a hole big enough for the silicone 90, but the large cone air filter I want to run is still going to be almost impossible to fit inside the fender… I may have to use another 90 and turn it towards the inside of the front bumper. :(



Update:

The hole in the inner fender got even bigger, and a few painfully expensive but made in USA parts should help sort out the air cleaner problem.





I am going to cut about ⅜" more off of the turbo end so the hose doesn't push so hard on the fender and then use the cast 90 to get the air cleaner pointed towards the bumper. I think a 6" x 12" long round K&N will fit, but I am going to make some sort of cardboard mock up before I buy one.

The inner fender is going to have to get put back in at least on this side to protect the air filter…

Last edited by babbit bearings; 07-12-2016 at 12:41 AM..
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Old 07-09-2016, 01:10 AM   #52
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This is a pretty interesting build. I am looking forward to seeing it completed.
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:01 PM   #53
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i got the exact same radiator. any pics of it sitting in there?
Starting on it now.

A while ago I cut the sides of the core support so that the radiator could move forward. I just overlapped the pieces and used some rivets to hold it together I will be adding some ½" thick soft foam to seal off the sides when it is finished.








Yesterday I went to the LKQ and got four of these from some late 90's Crown Victorias.


With so much of the core support cut off, I decided to mount the radiator a little different than normal, it looks like it is going to work out ok.

I apologize for the poor aluminum welds, I can do better if I go slow, but I was trying to move as fast as possible so the epoxy on tubes wouldn't get damaged. The tanks pretty thin, so I added a reinforcement, out of ⅛" material, then a thin wall ¾" OD tube 2" long.


I cut the Crown Vic brackets down a bit, put a notch in the sides so I could bend them a little bit more, and then welded up the notch.

Note: I would not recommend using these, They are painted black by Ford, but they also have a pretty heavy zinc coating under the paint, and welding on zinc coated steel is not good for you.






And I got one of these from LKQ in Houston. Pretty expensive from them, but it came with the twin relay, etc. I wish I had known about these a long time ago, it appears to be a really good air mover, and the mounting design will make it easy to fit onto an aftermarket radiator.

Last edited by babbit bearings; 07-11-2016 at 08:42 PM..
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Old 07-16-2016, 04:08 PM   #54
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A little progress.
I got a "really good deal" on some 4" 90 degree aluminized elbows on 4" center line radius off of Amazon, but I think they are actually blem's because they are a bit distorted on one end, but for this project I think they will work ok. I was happy to see they are Made in USA.


and ended up with this.

I still need to finish the lower radiator supports, that will pull the radiator about ½" forward on the bottom and provide additional clearance, but even like this I think it will be fine.

The alternator has about ¾" clearance, so I will be putting a few layers of fiberglass wrap in that area, the Power steering res is going to have to move, but I pretty much expected that anyway.



At one time on my old ford I had 4" dual exhaust with a blown 496 chevy, in order to quiet it down for street driving I slide a 28" long 2.5" glass pack inside the exhaust pipe and secured it in place with a weld nut and a small hole in the 4" tube, it did an amazing job of controlling the exhaust noise, and only took a couple minutes to remove at the track. I may try the same setup on this, combined with the turbo I think it should end up pretty quite.





I was surprised how much tire clearance this setup ended up with…



Because I pushed the engine back and the radiator forward, I should have plenty of room to fit a decent radiator shroud over about ¾ of the core on the passenger side, the 4" cross pipe is pretty much below the core and shouldn't really restrict the shape of the shroud.



with the exhaust painted black and the car back on the ground I don't think the exhaust will be too noticeable.

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Old 07-21-2016, 12:16 AM   #55
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The air cleaner headache may be resolved.






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Old 07-21-2016, 12:20 AM   #56
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And sadly I purchased a part sold by Mr. Gasket that is made in China… I am sure I will (and deserve to) burn in hell for it, but I couldn't find any made in USA 45 degree swivel base LS thermostat housings…

I am sorry. I feel like a failure. I will probably throw it away later… it doesn't help that it is ding-dong cheap chrome… :(

If anyone knows of a Not Made in China company who sells this part please please please let me know….





A friend of mine has a manual brake at his shop that I used to make a metal fan shroud, it isn't going to be as big as I hoped because the down pipe from the turbo is too close, but this fan seems to move a lot of air, and the core is pretty big, so this should still work. Depending on the final clearance available behind the intercooler, I may put a small pusher fan on the front of the A/C condenser.







Even with the corvette accessory drive and pushing the radiator forward more than 1", it still doesn't leave very much room for the down pipe off the turbo.






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Old 07-24-2016, 05:24 PM   #57
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I got the old A/C condenser installed in front of the new radiator and wanted to see how well this combination moved air… I am really impressed by the Volvo fan, it is much quieter than any of the cheap flex lite fans I have used before, and my gut feeling is that it is moving lots of air. I plan to borrow the air speed tester from work and get an "installed" cfm number, but I am confident now that this volvo fan is a good choice, especially since I haven't sealed up the 1" open air gap at the bottom & top between the a/c condenser and the radiator core, and it still is pulling a lot of air through the a/c condenser.



low



high
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Old 07-24-2016, 06:45 PM   #58
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Just read through the thread. Great work man! Can't wait to see it after you finish up the rest of the swap and start driving it. Hopefully your shop is air conditioned. I am coming out to Houston for work next week and I just checked the weather... 95 and raining the whole time. I don't know how you accomplish anything in that kind of weather!
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Old 07-24-2016, 11:03 PM   #59
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I am coming out to Houston for work next week...
I am sorry… it sucks here June - mid Sept. Late July & early August are the worst…
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Old 07-25-2016, 09:18 AM   #60
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I am coming out to Houston
Come to Austin!
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:41 PM   #61
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I haven't found any really performance curves listed for automotive aftermarket charge air coolers, so I don't really have any way to judge how well this will work in my application. I suppose I could try to rig up some sort of test stand with a propane heater, air flow meters, etc, but I think I am going to just be lazy and install it. At least it is made in USA. It is a tube & fin type, rather than the (more common)??? bar type, but I don't really have any data to really judge the real performance of either version.



I am not thrilled about it, but the front bumper is probably going to get some extra holes added..

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Old 07-27-2016, 09:31 AM   #62
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Can you not flip it upside down and stuff the bottom of the core up further?
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:48 PM   #63
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Quote:
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Can you not flip it upside down and stuff the bottom of the core up further?
I was just thinking this. I think you will fit it perfectly in there. Its what I ended up doing.

Nice build and very inspiring! Thanks for sharing with us.
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:52 PM   #64
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just a fyi, the stock 940 fan and shroud fits on the c4 vette radiators with a little trimming
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Old 07-29-2016, 09:31 AM   #65
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Once the intercooler is painted flat black I think it will be ok. I am not sure how it will look with the inner lights replaced with wire mesh... I'm afraid it is going to look sort of ghetto.

I also need to beat the dented edge of the hood back up so it doesn't mess up the grill. Bodywork is absolutely impossible for me to do well, so the results will probably be fairly hideous...

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Old 07-29-2016, 11:33 AM   #66
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You could always do what they do on drag cars and paint up a solid cover to look like a light. From a distance they often look pretty realistic.
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Old 07-29-2016, 04:18 PM   #67
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You could always do what they do on drag cars and paint up a solid cover to look like a light. From a distance they often look pretty realistic.
They make stickers. Places like Summit and Jegs sell them.

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Old 07-29-2016, 08:10 PM   #68
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I bet they don't make Mitsi Lancer stickers, but that's good to know!
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Old 07-31-2016, 06:11 AM   #69
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Old 08-02-2016, 08:56 PM   #70
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So after paying $200 for the intercooler… I cut it up. :(

But despite my poor welding ability and dirty casting end tanks, it appears that it will work out ok. I need to decide on how to mount it next.





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Old 08-02-2016, 10:49 PM   #71
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Welding looks great to me!
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:23 PM   #72
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Lifted up as high as I can without hitting the hood latch (actually it touched, so I bent the safety latch up a bit…)


and my welding isn't getting any better, but it should be good enough… I am still not sure why every time I weld ⅛" aluminum I end up with a ¼" weld bead…



I should have the bottom mounts done tomorrow.
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Old 08-06-2016, 05:11 PM   #73
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A few weeks ago at LKQ I found these for the radiator on a 97 Dodge Dakota, they are pretty soft and should work pretty good.


I cut a short piece of 1x2x1/8 rect. tubing and ripped it the long way then added some holes.



Because I raised the intercooler up so much I needed a riser for the bottom mounts. This is what I came up with.




This will allow a few inches of weld on the tank, rather than on the thin strip of metal on the bottom of the intercooler.


The tanks taper at the bottom, so I had to bend the ½" aluminum rod a bit to match the angle of the tank, but after a bunch of frustration with the dirty casting and the large gap between the rod & the tank I ended up with this:




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Old 08-07-2016, 04:59 AM   #74
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Very nice! Keep up the good work I'm always checking your updates!
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:01 AM   #75
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You sure do go out of your way to make things fit! I just throw it in there the best I can lol. Great engineering my friend.
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