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Old 11-25-2016, 08:56 PM   #101
GreatDaneShane
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4" out the back dumped under the trunk with the stock pipe welded to the turndown so it looks stock ;)
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Old 11-25-2016, 09:14 PM   #102
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efi source is awesome. i have the microsquirt setup from them
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Old 11-25-2016, 09:49 PM   #103
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It may be a bit pricier, but I recommend this:

https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/msp...ine-harnesses/
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Old 11-25-2016, 10:42 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by DNAsEqUeNcE View Post
It may be a bit pricier, but I recommend this:

https://www.diyautotune.com/shop/msp...ine-harnesses/
The gold box isn't even remotely water resistant but it has 4l80e control and bump capability. The diy pro box is smaller and water resistant, but no trans control.

Because I am running the SS camaro exhaust manifolds backwards the stock GM dipstick tube doesn't fit, and I destroyed it trying to make it work… eventually I after spending hours screwing around with it and then giving up, I cut it in three pieces, threw away the middle, and spliced in some ⅜ x .035 wall 304 stainless tube and bending it around the outside of the exhaust. Good grief… normally I am not OCD about ****, but this got out of control…





And the current status of the engine bay.


I also got a set of single round headlights from a guy in katy, they look like they may work with some careful cutting, but the grill he had is busted up pretty bad so that isn't a done deal yet, and I would have to find a flat hood in order to run the single headlights so… $$$ :(

I am not sure if this is going to be better than round quad's with the inner blocked off, if it is, I am still going to need a grill and a flat hood….




A little help on this: (also posted in general)
Is the core support different on an 84 vs cars with single round headlights?

I am trying to figure out a headlight setup for my car that will work with my intercooler. I thought I had a good solution, but the plastic spacer seems to be wrong, the headlight sticks out past the bezel by about an inch.

Do other single round "bezel" designs move the headlight out about an inch, or is the core support different?

Moving the headlight forward will help my situation a lot, installing it without the spacer will require cutting off one of the retaining clips.


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Last edited by babbit bearings; 11-27-2016 at 09:38 PM..
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Old 11-26-2016, 11:15 PM   #105
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This is stupid and I love it.
If you want a free (+shipping) flathood grille you can have mine, it's missing half the slash, and not in great shape, but would match the car perfectly.

Then just chop the front off the coffin hood to make it a semi-flat hood, sorta cowl induction-ish.

It would work
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build thread; http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=251729
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http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=292524
'92 245. 601 red, stock, awesome.
'90 244. blue, tall, ghetto, fabulous.
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Old 12-05-2016, 10:55 PM   #106
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A small update.

Got a made in USA tail pipe!


Got a genuine (used) Dana 44 1350 Spicer yoke for $55 shipped off eBay, originally from some sort of Jeep. I wasn't 100% sure it was going to work, but it fit perfect.






Unfortunately I think i am going to need to buy a set of u-joint straps, I am pretty sure this isn't right.



I am going to order a 3" dia. steel 46.5" C-C driveshaft off eBay tomorrow for $200 shipped. The critical speed on a shaft that short is high enough I don't think I will ever have any issue with it so I am not too worried about going cheap on it.
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Old 12-06-2016, 01:07 AM   #107
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If you have the 8.8 diff a foxbody shaft fits perfect. I added an aluminum f150 lift kit spacer on the diff flange for a tad more engagement on the trans it's also 3"
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Old 12-11-2016, 09:58 AM   #108
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Got some 2" v-bands and some sweet mandrel 2" aluminized tubing from Vibrant Racing pleasantly surprised that it was from Canada!


Used it to finish up my exhaust system. I wish I had done the passenger side motor mount differently my brace going to the body made it much more complicated to fit the exhaust pipe, but in the end it will work and has the same ground clearance as the transmission pan.



Any suggestions on a 4" electric cutout that is not made in China?
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Old 12-11-2016, 06:25 PM   #109
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This is epic. Friend of mine is looking to move to Houston in an air traffic control position, he needs a wagon like this!
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:26 PM   #110
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I found an eBay seller "drivelinesource" located in Houston selling any length 3" driveshafts with 1350 joints for $200, I was a bit skeptical, but it turns out they are actually a real full service Spicer Driveline Shop, I called yesterday, they had it ready at noon today. I am really happy with how fast Gary got it finished, and it appears to be very good quality workmanship.



A few days ago I ordered the correct genuine Spicer P/N 3-70-28X straps & small hex head bolts for the Dana 44 1350 rear yoke from a place in North Carolina… and of course they sent me made in China u bolts for a Ford instead... so I can't install my new driveshaft.
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Old 12-13-2016, 11:04 PM   #111
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After the USPS sort of lost it for a few days, another fairly small item that cost way more than car arrived today.


In case anyone is considering this system, this is what you get:

ECU with three main connections, plus a port for a USB cable and an SD Card port for data logging. (the harness also has an RCA connection for connecting with a serial port)

The memory stick has the basic installation instructions for the engine harness, trans harness, basic startup tunes for 24 tooth & 58 tooth, and basic transmission tunes.


complete harness with basic fuse block and main relay, including the harness for the 4L80e (Note: It only hooks up to one of the transmission shaft speed sensors, so it can not monitor internal transmission slipping).



The harness is pretty nice, every wire is clearly marked every 6", the terminals crimps look very good.


It would be nice if they would use split loom with a higher temp range, but other than that it is pretty good quality. (way better than the stuff we install on forklifts at work..)

They also include a bunch labeled wires with the terminal crimped for the ECU end for the less common options that the ECU can use: 1st stage Nitrous In & Out, 2nd Stage Nitrous In & Out, 2 step, boost control, VVT control, Data Log Start/Stop, etc…
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Old 12-24-2016, 11:39 PM   #112
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Molex would have been much cheaper but these are not from China, so I guess it is ok.



And I picked a spot to mount the MS3.

Last edited by babbit bearings; 12-25-2016 at 11:04 PM..
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Old 03-05-2017, 06:26 PM   #113
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Small update, sorry no photos since none of it is really particularly interesting.

Transmission harness cut, pinned and installed.
Engine harness cut, pinned, and installed
Fuel Pressure & Oil pressure sensor wiring installed
14.7 Spartan wide band installed.
450 walbro, corvette filter/regulator & fittings on the way.

Still need to decide on injectors, the vette regulator will be at 58 psi, so the cheap deka 80 injectors may be a bit big for this mild of an engine. I am thinking about 60's instead...

Also trying to convince myself to buy a racepak IQ for the dash, but I have never driven a car with one before so I can't decide if it is really worth the money...
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Old 03-05-2017, 06:38 PM   #114
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I'm in the same boat. I'm thinking about an iq3s but just not sure. It's nice that it'll show everything the stock dash will and more. I like the street functionally over the normal iq3.

http://iq3s.racepak.com
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Old 03-05-2017, 06:46 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babbit bearings View Post
Small update, sorry no photos since none of it is really particularly interesting.

Transmission harness cut, pinned and installed.
Engine harness cut, pinned, and installed
Fuel Pressure & Oil pressure sensor wiring installed
14.7 Spartan wide band installed.
450 walbro, corvette filter/regulator & fittings on the way.

Still need to decide on injectors, the vette regulator will be at 58 psi, so the cheap deka 80 injectors may be a bit big for this mild of an engine. I am thinking about 60's instead...

Also trying to convince myself to buy a racepak IQ for the dash, but I have never driven a car with one before so I can't decide if it is really worth the money...
You are gonna wanna return that Corvette regulator and convert to a boost referenced return style fuel system
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Old 03-05-2017, 06:47 PM   #116
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Also uncapped truck injectors work great. That's what I have, I had them flowed and they were at 75lbs across the board
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Old 03-05-2017, 07:35 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosbySweater View Post
You are gonna wanna return that Corvette regulator and convert to a boost referenced return style fuel system
This setup will run out of compressor wheel at less than 750 whp so the fuel rail is unlikely to be the limit.
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Old 03-05-2017, 08:29 PM   #118
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Fuel rail isn't the issue, heat and consistent pressure is the issue
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:05 AM   #119
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Those decka 80's will be fine. I can max my wideband full lean at idle with them.
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:07 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosbySweater View Post
You are gonna wanna return that Corvette regulator and convert to a boost referenced return style fuel system
+1 you will see massive fuel pressure drops as boost pressure increases. Your going to want a rising rate boost referenced regulator.
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Old 03-24-2017, 06:41 PM   #121
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Sorry about the lack of progress. After a total of 10 years working for Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, I decided to accept a position with a company that was much closer to me when I was growing up in MN.... I will be moving to Racine Wisconsin to work for Case IH as soon as I can find a buyer for my moderately sized house in a nice golf course suburb with a 4 car air conditioned garage.

If by chance any of you need a house on the NW side of Houston that includes a big garage with a 2 post lift and A/C let me know.

On the bright side, now it won't matter if I never get the AC working in the wagon.
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:46 PM   #122
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You wont be far from me!!!! Id love to meet up!
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Old 05-14-2017, 10:42 PM   #123
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Not much progress due to lots of travel for my new job.

IAT installed
Fuel pump, filter, and lines done
Transmission cooler lines done
Battery box, disconnect, battery cables done
main power breaker & alternator wiring done.

Remaining before first startup:
cooling fan wiring
wiring for oil pressure, fuel pressure, and wide band.
remove the front cover and add a drain for the turbo
buy and install wastegate(s)
install wastegate controller
decide on what shifter to buy, probably PPP from California.





A bit later, somewhat anticlimactic

https://youtu.be/HlX4dg9H-0Q




And after a few changes to the IAC and cranking fuel it starts a bit better.

I ordered a 50mm JGS wastegate. Still need to buy a shifter & bigger injectors, and get some better seats, and replace a bunch of worn out suspension parts.


Last edited by babbit bearings; 06-08-2017 at 12:57 AM..
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Old 06-10-2017, 02:54 PM   #124
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I know I should have installed the turbo drain, wastegate & shifter before starting it, but I was needing a little motivation, so I cheated a bit...

Next part just showed up. Made in Oregon.




Took the timing cover off and added a #10 AN port for the drain








Got this fixed too:




 photo B166E64A-F0F2-4306-BCEE-4BB39992DF2F_zps4zydcxp3.jpg



It is a bit close, but will work.

 photo A7674986-E5BA-44D4-90E2-EAD5AFCF41E6_zpssg1gooj5.jpg















back together.




4 port Mac boost solenoid




Last edited by babbit bearings; 06-25-2017 at 07:21 PM.. Reason: addded some pics
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Old 07-01-2017, 10:09 PM   #125
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Sorry, but I made a mistake and used Photobucket for photo hosting.

Aparrently they have decided that they need $399 per year for this service , about $378 more than I currently pay... so I will be canceling my account with them in the very near future... probably about the same time as they try to take more money from me.

Sorry.
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