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Old 09-24-2016, 06:41 PM   #51
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No pics, because it's all just junkyard parts.
Last week I was stoked because an 84 GL came into my local scrappy, so I went out and grabbed the driveshaft (AW70)...which is of course the small output flange and 44.5mm diameter. Doesn't fit my late AW71L (of course), so I was kinda miffed. I drove the wife out to Oktoberfest at a local brewery and headed off to Laval (a suburb of Montreal, for anyone familiar with Canadian geography) to the junkyard. It's 2 hours from my house...and it paid off big. Got a big driveshaft AND a salvageable tranny pan! I was able to remove the dipstick tube with no fuss, and the hole they stab into the pans to drain them was easy to weld up. The one in Laval is an 88, so it had the right driveshaft . I've also snagged a couple of hall-sender distributors for my MS conversion, so I'm pretty happy.
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Old 09-25-2016, 10:05 PM   #52
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Transmission rebuild almost done. I had a spare needle bearing...so I had to disassemble it again, sigh.
Tomorrow: accumulator mod and VB reinstall.
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Old 10-02-2016, 03:52 PM   #53
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Today I decided to start the winter project work, even though there's probably a couple more weeks I could have driven it. This way I can still work with the garage doors open, haha.

Swapped in the EFI fuel level sender with the Airtex mustang pump, and was pleasantly surprised to see that all the EFI fuel pump wiring was already there! It's not live, obviously, but I am pretty sure all I need is the factory fuel pump relay, and I'll be good to go (once it's MS'd). Hell, the fuse spot is populated, and the wires are there even . Next up will be the engine removal to clean the bay and install the AW71L.
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Old 10-03-2016, 10:48 PM   #54
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Yep still no pics in the world's most boring build thread .

Finished the transmission tonight, and made one dipstick tube out of two. I sure hope my welding is up to snuff, or it could get leaky.

I'm still trying to decide if I should mod my MS1 v2.2 for spark, or just leave it fuel-only, since I know that I won't be boosted next year.
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Old 10-04-2016, 06:47 PM   #55
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PICTURE!
I wanted a separate fuse box for the MS setup, because there's no way I am going to rely on having those silly volvo fuses on hand if something happens.
I checked out the scrappers and found that the Kia Sportage has a nice little fusebox, and it was pretty easy to sort out for universal use .

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Old 10-05-2016, 01:43 PM   #56
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MORE PICTURE!

Got the fuse box mounted, and it's a great fit .

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Old 10-07-2016, 09:06 AM   #57
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Note: When making a 'quick' harness to get 12v to your MS1 v2.2 in order to update the firmware...the 12v 'in' is pin 28.
NOT PIN 26.

If you send 12v in on pin 26, you explode a trace, and possibly damage a few other things. Sigh.

So far everything checks out, but I need a replacement C21 cap, since I broke one of the legs removing it from the board to test. The voltage reg is fine, and the 40pin socket is powered up properly, but there currently is no VCC or Vref, probably due to the missing cap. Always double check your work.
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Old 10-08-2016, 05:10 PM   #58
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...and the answer is...: dead processor.
With the processor out, every part of the board tests perfectly fine. The minute I installed the chip, the board failed everything except the batt volt ref checks. Luckily they're cheap, so there's already an order in to DIY for a replacement .

I removed the fuel level assembly again, to put clamps on the pump to sender hose (oops, forgot) and it's a good thing I did. The level sender had snapped off the return pipe! I tacked it back into place and decided to make fuel pump work 110% easier in the future. I took a grinder and cut down the hump that the factory access panel is on. I went down about two inches, and then cut across. Now it's VERY easy to take the pump in and out, and the part I cut out is now part of the access hatch. To hell with fighting with fuel pumps.
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Old 10-11-2016, 08:45 PM   #59
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A buddy happened to ask me if I wanted a set of 205/55/16s yesterday...so I said what the hell .



I'll put the caps on in the spring, and now I REALLY have to address the saggy suspension...
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Old 10-11-2016, 08:58 PM   #60
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Get some of the small Corona center caps and some chrome Virgo lugnuts... That's what I've done. On the rear suspension, a pair of wagon springs will get rid of the saggy butt syndrome. Need to do that on my 242.

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Old 10-11-2016, 09:46 PM   #61
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I popped some P80 (850/first gen 70 series) hub caps in the middle of my hydras, but I like the exposed lug look
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Old 10-15-2016, 06:44 PM   #62
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Time for the engine to come out! There's no way I want to swap the 71L in from underneath, and my engine bay desperately needs cleaning...so...


I grabbed a TPS from a 98 S70 today at the yard, and made a (very ugly) adapter.


I also plan to convert to e-fan and 100amp denso alternator while the engine is out. It will be a productive winter .
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Old 10-16-2016, 04:08 PM   #63
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Todays tasks: removed the driveshaft (have a 'big' one to go in), unbolted the downpipe, removed the transmission crossmember, disconnected the speedo cable (GPS from now on), and unbolted the engine mounts.

Supplemental tasks: cursing and swearing due to arms and face covered in Krown undercoating.

Pleasant surprise: my 84 has the second set of crossmember holes already in place, so I can mount the 71L without any fuss .

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Old 10-23-2016, 03:53 PM   #64
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Let the winter work begin!

Degrease all the things!



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Old 10-25-2016, 07:08 PM   #65
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It's out...and as clean as it can be from a can of brake cleaner and a brush. Faaaaaaaaaaaaack I hate dirty engines.
Every exhaust nut came right off, no broken studs. I'm pretty stoked about that .

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Old 10-28-2016, 09:26 AM   #66
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90+ manifold secured.

Now I'm at a crossroads. I am trying to decide if it's worth it to do the turbo stuff right now, or wait a year. All I really need in order to complete the setup is an oil pan bung, and some sort of wastegate setup, since the big 16G I have here has a T3 hotside and no internal gate. Going turbo means I'll need a bigger exhaust, which is my only real expense, but I hadn't planned on spending that much this winter. I promised my wife that this car would be a very budget-extreme-low-cost project.

Although, while typing this, I just figured out a way to do the oil return for $0 with stuff I have in the garage...hmm...
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Old 10-29-2016, 06:35 PM   #67
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Converting a canadian B21A to EFI is a giant pain in the dick.

So, the carbed manifold has coolant running through it, which comes from ports under the number 1 and number 4 intake ports. They're not tapped for anything, even though on a CIS-based car, the one under #4 is where the thermo time switch goes. So, I tapped that one for 1/4 NPT and plugged it. The port under #1 is a bit too big for a 1/4 NPT tap, so I drilled it out a bit and tapped it to 3/8. Then I had to grind the plug and the LH 2.2 manifold a bit to get it to fit flush with the head. Ugh.

I just finished welding up the cracks in the 90+ manfold. Stainless steel MIG wire is a DREAM for that stuff, although I'm not sure how long it will last. My poor little 110v Lincoln was cranked to 11, but the pre-heating seemed to help a lot. Then I peened the hell out of the weld globs to stretch it out a bit and prevent cracking.

The pulsair studs were too long and holding the manifold out, so they came out too. I'm going to make some plugs on the lathe at work and settle that soon.
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Old 10-30-2016, 03:10 PM   #68
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Pulsair ports plugged. I got impatient and found a different way. I tapped them with 1/8NPT and plugged them with some M10x1 bolts, which is a sure way to ensure they won't ever come out again, haha.

I was on the cusp of deciding against a +T swap, mainly because I don't want to spend any money this winter, and I need an external gate to use the big 16G I have here. Of course, I find a gate and flanges in my stash today, sigh. Now all I need are some oil fittings and I'm basically ready to go.
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Old 11-03-2016, 12:22 PM   #69
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F**k you, garage that did the maintenance work on this car before I got it. While trying to torque the exhaust nuts down to 22-ft/lbs, I snapped a stud. Wtf?! I tried another one, and had the exact same issue. Alright, lets take them out...
snap
snap
snap
snap
snap
yay

SERIOUSLY?! The one good one that came out must have been pure luck, because all the others required welding. Now, I'm not sure how long the stock studs are supposed to be, but the 'inside' end of these was 10mm shorter than the actual threaded part in the head, so every time I tried to tighten them, they spun deeper and deeper into the head. All the ones that snapped had sunk the unthreaded middle portion right into the head, galling the threads. The garage that did the maintenance must have replaced the studs/gaskets at some point and used incorrect length studs, or tightened them down too far initially.

They're out now, and I'm getting replacements.

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Old 11-04-2016, 04:43 PM   #70
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Bought a $55 (CAD) belt sander today, and was able to T3 my 90+. It's a Big 16G TD05 with a 9-blade turbine wheel and 8cm T3 hotside. Should be more than enough for me .

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Old 11-04-2016, 05:55 PM   #71
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Good to see a nice canadian build!
Keep it up!
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Old 11-04-2016, 06:04 PM   #72
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Thanks! I still have to come up with some sort of external gate setup, or buy a different hotside.
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Old 11-04-2016, 11:01 PM   #73
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Welded in an oil return bung tonight. FYI, Princess Auto (Canadian Harbor Freight) JIC fittings are AN fittings by a different name. I picked up a male 5/8 JIC to male 1/2 NPT fitting the other day for less than $2 CAD, which is kick ass pricing for a -10AN oil return bung .
I drilled a 13/16" hole in the pan, threaded the NPT part in, finished welded it, and then trimmed.

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Old 11-19-2016, 05:00 PM   #74
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JUNKYARD SCORE DAY!
The local yard had a "1992 Volvo 900" listed on their website, that went in on the 16th. I decided to get there early today and was first one in (yeah, I have impatience issues ;) ). It turned out to be a full-load 940 Turbo, HUZZAH! Snagged the fuel rail (all the ones I have are bent, wtf), injectors, resistor pack, ignition module, piping, turbo (13C in good, non-leaky, shape), and the manifold (cracked, but fixable). I left the ECU and EZK there, since I don't need them, but cut out the engine portion of the harness for my megasquirt conversion. I also found an early V40 turbo, and it had Seimens Deka redtops...42 lb/hr, and high-imp. Those were a pocket-item ;).

I wish I could go back for the engine, but judging by the seized wastegate rod (which is now fixed), I'm really not sure what condition it's in. The hotside is cracked too, but that's an easy fix.
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Old 11-26-2016, 05:20 PM   #75
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Making progress. Got a new MS1 v2.2, modded it for ignition and fan control, and found some pigtails. I upsized the turbo studs to M10, and thanks to a busted downpipe stud, I welded on a v-band. I tried getting the busted stud out, but it was being a pain, so I moved to plan B.




I decided to go with the high-impedance 440cc injectors from a turbo V40, which meant I needed extenders. I don't like these because they fit quite loosely, but if they don't leak, I won't mess with them.

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