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Old 10-15-2017, 12:04 AM   #76
Andrewhans
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Made some good progress on the crossover and wastegate setup. The crossover is 100% reused exhaust that came off the car. Turned out pretty good IMO.





Thats all for now.
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Old 10-16-2017, 04:52 PM   #77
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Got it put back together making sure everything still is happy.



Now to hammer the trans tunnel enough to clear the dual bolt pattern th350 case I have. If it were a regular GM th350 case it wouldn't need that much work.
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Old 10-19-2017, 01:22 PM   #78
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Did you use sch 40 on that manifold? I'm looking to do a similar setup on the new car I'm building
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Old 10-19-2017, 01:53 PM   #79
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Did you use sch 40 on that manifold? I'm looking to do a similar setup on the new car I'm building
I did. It was surprisingly easy to work with.
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Old 10-19-2017, 02:11 PM   #80
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Yea the Chevy manifolds are super easy to weld on. What diameter did you use? Did you do a 90 and a straight section? Sewer pipe? Lol
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Old 10-19-2017, 04:30 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by cosbySweater View Post
Yea the Chevy manifolds are super easy to weld on. What diameter did you use? Did you do a 90 and a straight section? Sewer pipe? Lol
No sewer pipe haha
The straight piece I got off a random metal shop for $5. I think I got 15" of sched 40 2" ID for that. The other pieces were a 90 2" sched 40 and a 2.5" sched 40 90.





That's every pic I have of the manifold build.

Last edited by Andrewhans; 10-19-2017 at 04:36 PM..
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Old 11-02-2017, 12:56 PM   #82
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If it doesnt clear after all this Im just going to cut the tunnel out and weld in some sheet metal.
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Old 11-02-2017, 02:08 PM   #83
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Wait... The th350 doesn't fit???
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Old 11-02-2017, 03:35 PM   #84
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The dual bolt pattern BOP/GM TH350 does not fit. No TC or flywheel and I was still an inch away from the dowels
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Old 11-02-2017, 03:59 PM   #85
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I put mine in as a single unit, you may have better luck that way.
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Old 11-02-2017, 04:00 PM   #86
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and that's also to say: I'm fairly positive I *cannot* remove the transmission from my car without also removing the engine.
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Old 11-02-2017, 05:33 PM   #87
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Did you make your own mounts?
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Old 11-02-2017, 10:16 PM   #88
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I put mine in as a single unit, you may have better luck that way.
I may try that but the first time I tried I was nowhere near clearing the crossmember without notching it heavily. That would be my preference is to be able to install it as one unit.

If the trans doesnt go in with what I've done I'm going to notch the subframe so I can instal/remove as a unit.

Last edited by Andrewhans; 11-03-2017 at 12:31 AM..
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Old 11-03-2017, 01:29 AM   #89
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I thought the th350 is smaller then the 4l60e?
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Old 11-03-2017, 01:57 AM   #90
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Im sure it is but the dual bolt pattern case on my TH350 is bigger in all the wrong areas near the 240 firewall. Im sure I would not have even needed to touch the fire wall with a standard case TH350.
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:46 AM   #91
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it's probably not a whole lot smaller. the 60e is likely a bit longer, but a lot of the internal junk is similar/same. At least you don't have a removable sfi bell housing, those things are miserable to clearance.


anyway, with mine, I ended up putting a jack under the tail of the trans, and as I rolled everything in, I started pitching the assembly up, push back, lift up, push back, etc until it all went in.
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Old 11-03-2017, 10:58 AM   #92
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Do you have the sts mounts?
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Old 11-03-2017, 11:00 AM   #93
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Yup. STS mounts on the eng and trans.
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Old 11-03-2017, 12:58 PM   #94
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At least you don't have a removable sfi bell housing, those things are miserable to clearance.
Mine has a steel/SFI Quicktime bell housing -- absolutely zero clearance issues; in fact, it's not even what I would call 'close'. But I picked a pan/fab'd my own mounts to set the motor as low and far back as possible. Even a smaller bell/auto-tranny housing can cause problems if the engine sits high enough and/or further back. FWIW....
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Old 11-03-2017, 01:33 PM   #95
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JW ultra bell on a th350 is a massive thing.
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Old 11-03-2017, 03:57 PM   #96
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Had to clearance it a bit more in the circled areas in red. I was finally able to get it up onto the dowels. Huge pain in the ass.


Now onto a technical question. How much gap between flexplate and converter? I currently have exactly 1/4"


This is where the bastard was hitting the worst.

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Old 11-04-2017, 02:53 PM   #97
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Did the ol' notch and flip today. The Holley pan I bought(302-2) is a bit longer at the base of the pan and I needed a little more clearance down there.


I may even have enough clearance to install as a unit. We'll see.

Last edited by Andrewhans; 11-04-2017 at 03:43 PM..
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:57 AM   #98
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1/4 is a lot I think?
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:58 AM   #99
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fake edit, found this online (I'm sure you have too)
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Originally Posted by Vince @ FLT View Post
If gap distance is between .060" and .187" it is OK to bolt up the torque converter. If the gap is greater than .187" install a .060" flat washer between the torque converter and flexplate.
from this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...installed.html
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Old 11-06-2017, 08:50 PM   #100
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fake edit, found this online (I'm sure you have too)


from this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...installed.html
So I was just going to install a single washer to just bring it under the 1/4" measurement I had. I will measure again and make sure I'm under the .187". If needed I will grab some spacers or something to close up the gap a little.
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