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Old 07-27-2017, 11:54 AM   #76
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Wow. Ok, I'm on board now. Nicely done.
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Old 07-27-2017, 11:59 AM   #77
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Isn't the 122 blessed with fairly generous headroom?
It's not bad with the stock pan, especially if you lower the seats, but then steering wheel height starts getting weird. After the pan swap, it'll probably still be better than the BMW.
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Old 07-27-2017, 02:14 PM   #78
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Well, the 206 decided to water my lawn, so the covers will stay on for now. I'm gonna chip away at my honey-do list until the sun comes out.
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Old 07-27-2017, 02:20 PM   #79
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I'm just going to bring the body down to where the bottom of both pinch welds line up. That should be about right. Since the firewall isn't moving in relation to the paint should "feel" OK when driving. I'm gonna get everything cleaned up and start welding it together so I can pull the bracing out. Then I'll set a seat in and see what's what. If I have to put the bracing back in and cut it back apart, so be it.
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Old 07-27-2017, 06:20 PM   #80
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I don't want to admit how long it took me to do what you just did in 3 days!

Lower pich welds lined up seems to be the best compromise. Have you considered how you are going to attach the door seal since you no longer have a pichweld to locate it? Do you even care?

I went around the car for a long time making sure that anything that was going to be easier done with the body still removable was done before I welded the two together. I rehearsed every inch of the scar to make sure I was going to be able to fabricate and weld what was required. Underdash in particular.

Question: "Was the BMW drive-able as is?"
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Old 07-27-2017, 07:18 PM   #81
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I don't want to admit how long it took me to do what you just did in 3 days!

Lower pich welds lined up seems to be the best compromise. Have you considered how you are going to attach the door seal since you no longer have a pichweld to locate it? Do you even care?

I went around the car for a long time making sure that anything that was going to be easier done with the body still removable was done before I welded the two together. I rehearsed every inch of the scar to make sure I was going to be able to fabricate and weld what was required. Underdash in particular.

Question: "Was the BMW drive-able as is?"
The 122 doesn't have a body side door seal. Just on the door.

Yup. I had to replace some parts that were sold previous to me buying it (the guy had already started the part-out process), but with minimal cost I drove it on/off the trailer to get it home and I would drive it up and down the driveway after cutting in order to clean up. As soon as the two are stuck together I'll drive it out of the way to clean up the massive amount of metal dust that needs to be cleaned up.
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Old 07-27-2017, 07:35 PM   #82
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The 122 doesn't have a body side door seal. Just on the door.
There is supposed to be a cloth wrapped "windlace" seal that starts under the sill plate, goes up and around, tucked under the headliner (you know, that really sharp bit you whack your head on when you go to get out) then down and back under the sill plate.

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Old 07-28-2017, 12:10 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by cwdodson88 View Post
There is supposed to be a cloth wrapped "windlace" seal that starts under the sill plate, goes up and around, tucked under the headliner (you know, that really sharp bit you whack your head on when you go to get out) then down and back under the sill plate.

Windlace isn't much of a seal. more impact absorption than anything.



Stuck together. Tomorrow I'll start the filler panel process. Seat height is good. I didn't live stream today since it was a late start, and still a little wet out. I'm pretty excited. Getting the inside brace out and being able to drive it around to move it makes a HUGE difference.
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Old 07-28-2017, 12:59 AM   #84
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You're awesome
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Old 07-28-2017, 05:32 AM   #85
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Nice work!
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Old 07-28-2017, 01:15 PM   #86
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Will the core support, "frame horns," and inner fenders need a ton of modification to fit the Amazon sheetmetal?
From a few of the pics it looks like the E30 is too long from the front axle forward, but maybe that's an optical illusion.
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Old 07-28-2017, 06:22 PM   #87
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Will the core support, "frame horns," and inner fenders need a ton of modification to fit the Amazon sheetmetal?
From a few of the pics it looks like the E30 is too long from the front axle forward, but maybe that's an optical illusion.
Modification, yes. A ton, not unless you consider chopping them off a ton. The radiator doesn't need to move though.



That's gonna do it for this week. I've got lots of house stuff to do this weekend. There's still a bunch to do, but the fact that it runs and drives makes it seem so much more manageable. I feel like I accomplished a ton. I wanna get a bead roller to start making the fill panels.
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Old 07-28-2017, 08:47 PM   #88
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Wife's first BMW was a 90 318is - 2dr sedan with the 4 banger. Still her favorite. Your BMV is going to be a joy to drive.
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Old 07-29-2017, 09:06 AM   #89
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Holy sh*t this is cool!

Also, wheels look pretty ace on there. I'd keep 'em.
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Old 07-29-2017, 02:23 PM   #90
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It's so cool seeing it come together. Keep up the good work
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Old 07-31-2017, 02:21 PM   #91
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Modification, yes. A ton, not unless you consider chopping them off a ton. The radiator doesn't need to move though.
Ah, that's what I figured, but was hard to visualize before those latest photos. Funny to think that there's a situation where a BMW front overhang is too long, but here you are. Keep at it.
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Old 07-31-2017, 03:06 PM   #92
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Wow.

I need to start doing stuff with my '66, this is serious motivation material.
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Old 08-01-2017, 12:57 PM   #93
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Made myself a 2" dimple die for panel work. A bead roller just isn't in my budget right now. The family and I have taken on a foster son so money will be tight for a while.

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Old 08-01-2017, 02:43 PM   #94
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Great way to economically lighten and add panel strength.
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Old 08-05-2017, 05:18 PM   #95
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Just been doing a bunch of boring stuff on the car lately. Tying the Volvo cowl inlet to the E30 cowl/fan area. Making sure there's water drainage. Tying the two cars together in the under dash area, seam sealing, etc. I'll post some pics when there's something cool to look at again.
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Old 08-08-2017, 01:44 PM   #96
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Just been doing a bunch of boring stuff on the car lately. Tying the Volvo cowl inlet to the E30 cowl/fan area. Making sure there's water drainage. Tying the two cars together in the under dash area, seam sealing, etc. I'll post some pics when there's something cool to look at again.
Take your time here as it will be very hard to remedy after the fact. And you are right, not very photogenic place to work.
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Old 08-09-2017, 12:46 AM   #97
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excellent project ... and a great combination!

any interest in making another DIY dimple die?
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Old 08-12-2017, 03:10 AM   #98
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I know I haven't posted much. A lot of the stuff I'm doing is boring and just getting a piece welded in here or there then seam sealed. That part is going to be slow going for a bit. Thanks to spiDmang over on an E30 board I was able to grab some bits to play with during "quiet time" (i.e. before work and after the time that it's not polite to make loud grinder/hammer noises at home). Also, since I know the two chassis' will fit together, I can start playing with the stuff I WANT to. Following the ITB DIY I read on that same E30 board I started building my own ITB set.

First I took a stock intake and cut most of the runners/plenum off



Then I flipped it and drew some 2D CAD of the head side (mostly in case I decided to make my own flange for the head





Then I did some 2D CAD of the cut side





I'm going to use GSXR600 throttle bodies since they're 38mm which is almost exactly the same size as the runner, they are seperatable (I don't think that's a word) so I can set the spacing and they're cheap. I bought two sets of four for +/- $70 total





Instead of using silicone couplers, I'm going to use o-rings around the bottoms and make a flange to weld to the leftover OEM intake. I'd like a solid mount instead of flexible couplers and I know it's best to have the throttle plate close to the valve



More 2D CAD





I like to mock up with MDF since it's cheap and machinable











I'm going to use the stock injector port for fuel



And the motorcycle port for vacuum accessory pull off rail



I found a calculator online to help determine length of runner for the velocity stacks. I think I'll use a second harmonic tuning length



I still need to mill the OE manifold part at an angle to kick the ITBs up at an angle and to hopefully even up the runner cross section from the middle (4) runners and the outer (2) and then cut some actual aluminum parts. For phase 1 I'm going to run a plenum on the stacks and keep the AFM in the chain similar to the E30 M3

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Old 08-12-2017, 04:57 AM   #99
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WOow, that´s all I need say ...
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Old 08-12-2017, 12:31 PM   #100
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Awesome work!:D Do you have Your own cnc mill?
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