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Old 08-12-2017, 01:05 PM   #101
Atom D&D
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Awesome work!:D Do you have Your own cnc mill?
CNC router. 24"x36". Not as accurate as a mill, but accurate enough for 95% of what I need for my projects.
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Old 08-12-2017, 03:32 PM   #102
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Can you share more about assumptions for the runner length calculations - did it solve for peak torque rpm or did you input that number? Seems higher than I would imagine....of course I'm making up all of it....
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Old 08-12-2017, 04:00 PM   #103
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Can you share more about assumptions for the runner length calculations - did it solve for peak torque rpm or did you input that number? Seems higher than I would imagine....of course I'm making up all of it....
It first has a formula to calculate peak RPM. I used the runner area where it enters the head as that seems to be a fairly consistent cross section. It probably is higher than actual value, but I figured if I use their calculator for each step the end result should be close. I know that other E30 ITB kits use around a 12" length valve to runner end

http://www.wallaceracing.com/runnertorquecalc.php
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Old 08-12-2017, 05:34 PM   #104
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Thx for link - I've used a number of those Wallace Racing calculators.
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Old 08-16-2017, 10:46 PM   #105
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Been going to work early, and getting home late these days. That plus family weekend obligations, and I haven't gotten much sheet metal work done on the chassis. I did pick up some Amazon roof skin panels to help with some transitions last weekend. I did play around a little more with the ITBs though. Everything is getting closer. Relocating the battery to the trunk as well.



Still need to make the throttle body mounts, the fuel rail mounts, the vacuum collector/chamber and blend the transitions a little.
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Old 08-19-2017, 02:45 PM   #106
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I'm switching out the engine harness to upgrade to Motronic1.3. The factory loom gets brittle and cracks so I decided to recover it, but I wanted a vintage look. I buy a bunch of different diameter ropes because you can pull the middle out and just use the outside as loom.

First I mark the plug and take pictures of the wire positions



Then I de-pin the plug, fold the wires back on themselves (in different levels to keep the diameter small) and tape them up to pull the boots off



I get different sizes of rope in the same colorway (thanks Amazon) and cut the rope to length matching the runs of wire, pull the middle out and heat seal the ends



Then simply slide the sleeve over the wire and use real Tesa Tape at the junction like OEM



Then I tape the cut end of a ziptie in the end of the loom



Dunk the boot in soapy water and pull it over the ziptie/sleeve



I typically don't put the plugs back on until I'm completely done in case I need to change something or run them through another loom. When I'm all done I spray it with this goodness just to be sure



Sorry some of my pictures are blurry, my phone has been doing that just recently and I forget to check each pic, then I get waaaaaay past that step and it's too late to retake it
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Old 08-19-2017, 11:36 PM   #107
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Back to the ITBs. Using the calculator from before, I know the length of runner (velocity stack) I need, but after lots of searching, they're just too expensive to buy. I'm going to make my own from composite. I started building the plug to make a mold. I went longer than the calculations called for A) because that should bring peak torque a bit lower in the RPM range and B) because I figure it's a lot easier to shorten the stacks than it would be to lengthen them. I started by drawing the stacks in CAD, cutting some chunks on the router, gluing them together, marking the final radius and sanding the half down



A while back I made myself a "Hot Work Station" that I use for vacu-forming and powdercoating. I used the old oven from my house when we remodeled, a clamp frame made of plywood, a shop vac triggered by a switch when you push the frame down and a board with vacuum channels in it


Then I heated up some ABS and vacu-formed two halves for the plug



(again with the blurry pics. Sorry)

Then I glued the two halves together and filled with casting urethane resin from TAP Plastics



I split the halves of ABS off, drilled a hole through the middle and added some threaded rod to act as a "poor man's lathe" (since I'm broke and don't have a lathe)



Then I added some filler, sanded and primered. I probably will start the mold process next week, so that's it for now

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Old 08-19-2017, 11:37 PM   #108
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The rope idea. So awesome.
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Old 08-19-2017, 11:51 PM   #109
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Cool watching you make shlt from scratch with tools/equipment you made yourself.
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Old 08-21-2017, 12:23 PM   #110
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Amazing as always, Adam!
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:12 PM   #111
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Impressive!
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Old 08-21-2017, 06:53 PM   #112
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So fun to watch your mind and hands create!
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Old 08-25-2017, 12:49 AM   #113
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Still doing boring stuff. Got the fuel filler completely modded, painted and in place. Been working on filler panels still. You can make some decent filler panels with just a few tools from Harbor Freight.





Also powder coated the ITBs chrome with a copper candy topcoat (it just looks orange LOL).
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Old 08-27-2017, 09:55 PM   #114
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This week/weekend's accomplishments include getting the fuel filler modified/installed (no decent pictures), smoothing the driver's side sill/transition and spraying satin black, getting the back half of the car (including both wheel wells) stuck together and Raptor lined. I use the Raptor in the back and in the wheel wells like undercoat. Only more durable and "encapsulating".

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Old 08-28-2017, 01:05 PM   #115
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If you know what an Amazon door sill should look like, it makes you look hard to see the differences. Incredibly clean work as always, this is awesome.
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Old 09-05-2017, 11:11 AM   #116
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I need to make a decision on interior color. Originally I really wanted to do like a blood red-burgundy type color, but I realized that maybe why I like that combo so much is that it would basically wind up like the Voxx Amazon



Not that it's a bad thing, but I don't want to completely rip him off. So now I'm leaning towards a Volvo OEM color like Atacama or something



Of course the dash and other parts will be black/charcoal, but I'm not a fan of tan and full black/charcoal

Oh, made myself some front coilovers this weekend too.



Still need to make some upper spring perches and top plates. That's it for now besides incremental progress on stitching together and metal prep
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Old 09-05-2017, 09:54 PM   #117
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You can make some decent filler panels with just a few tools from Harbor Freight..
I'm building a Ute and it has involved making a ton of pieces, my favorite new tool is the $49 electric shears. Work really damn well and will actually cut 14gauge steel! Also bought their flanging tool which has been handy.
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Old 09-08-2017, 10:25 PM   #118
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Picking out interior colors.
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Old 09-09-2017, 12:42 AM   #119
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This is like listening to Norman Rockwell as he puts paint to canvas. Incredible project!
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Old 09-16-2017, 09:52 PM   #120
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Since the taillight is on a hinged panel now I started making my own LED taillights. Middle and top red lens will be 50% rows for parking light and all rows for brake light. Bottom clear lens will be two rows white LEDs for reverse and three rows red LEDs for turn signal.

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Old 09-17-2017, 12:07 AM   #121
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fuk yeah... those looks awesome.

Make some to sell or at least the insert
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:39 PM   #122
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I changed departments at work so I've been crazy busy there and the kids have eaten up a bunch of time so there hasn't been a ton of progress. I'm trying to get some stuff buttoned up so I can get to sealing the car up for winter. Painted the back half of the interior sheet metal in black and prepped to spray bedliner in the convertible tub. Turning my attention to the seats since those'll come in short order. Broke out my trusty machine "Betsy"



and started messing with stitch patterns. I need more practice before my top stitch lines will be straight, but it's never gonna be a Riddler winner, so I'm not too concerned. I tried single top stitch, double top stitch: one side and straight double top stitch (French stitch)



The problem I'll run into is patterning. My cloth rear seat is so destroyed that there's literally cloth just missing.
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Old 09-25-2017, 12:40 AM   #123
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I really like the last two patterns, whatever they're called. Lines look straight enough to me.

Side question: do you have any interest in that roof rack ? We never finished the transaction and I'm getting ready to sell it to buy a heavy duty one that will handle 50-70 lbs of bikes gracefully.
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Old 09-25-2017, 02:52 PM   #124
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I really like the last two patterns, whatever they're called. Lines look straight enough to me.

Side question: do you have any interest in that roof rack ? We never finished the transaction and I'm getting ready to sell it to buy a heavy duty one that will handle 50-70 lbs of bikes gracefully.
I'm fairly broke these days. I need to hold off. Sorry.
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Old 09-25-2017, 04:04 PM   #125
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No worries. Funds are being put to a good use right now.
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