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Old 11-06-2017, 08:03 PM   #26
M.H. Yount
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Congrats Ian! Put a timing light on it after you get the vacuum leaks nailed down. If you can get it to 10-12 BTDC without the TFI plug contacting anything don't bother re-stabbing it.
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Old 11-27-2017, 08:52 PM   #27
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Now we're cooking with gas...

Got the inline pump bypassed and fixed a leak in the return line. Eventually I got to replace both lines tank to rail. I got the driveshaft situated and now im able to start it up and actually drive it into the shop on its own lol. The trans still works at least in 1st and reverse it does! ITS THE LITTLE THINGS PEOPLE!!

Got a huge list of crap to do but this is a long term project and also a learning experience for me.




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Old 11-27-2017, 08:59 PM   #28
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Looks like it could use a coil or two cut off the rear springs.
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Old 11-27-2017, 09:30 PM   #29
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Looks like it could use a coil or two cut off the rear springs.
absolutely no plans on taking this thing in the woods
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Old 12-16-2017, 07:21 PM   #30
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Havent done a damn thing to this bucket but did fire it up real quick to make sure it still runs....

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Old 12-16-2017, 07:36 PM   #31
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Needs more locker/lsd.
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Old 12-16-2017, 08:16 PM   #32
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Nah - he's been waitin' a long time to smoke the "tire" -- no need to screw it up with more traction!
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Old 12-16-2017, 09:40 PM   #33
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Nah - he's been waitin' a long time to smoke the "tire" -- no need to screw it up with more traction!
lol more traction less fun...I def do wanna open up the diff and go threw it sometime this upcoming year.
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Old 12-16-2017, 09:41 PM   #34
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Needs more locker/lsd.
Def agree sometime this year it should happen...until then the occasional one leggers will have to do
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Old 03-02-2018, 09:19 AM   #35
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So old rusty is getting a brain transplant this weekend. I decided to not worry about the body for now and focus on the drive train.

I found a used megasquirt ecu thats a drop in replacement on 80's Fords. I had one in my last car so im semi familiar with it. I also found another one for my buddy whos going to run it in his 88 ThunderBird Turbo Coupe. Should be a fun summer once I get it all squared away. The car runs decent for not having any O2 sensors but should smooth out after some tuning is done.

Ill have to ditch one of the dash gauges for the AEM wideband as well. Pretty simple install overall.



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Old 03-10-2018, 09:20 AM   #36
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First AEMX series wideband was no good out of the box. It was sending a full 4.50 volts from the controller no matter what. Which would tell the PIMP ecu that it was full Lean all the time. Swapped out gauge/controller and issue has been fixed. Got it sit pretty nicely in the stock gauge cluster which I love because it doesnt stick out.







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Old 03-10-2018, 08:58 PM   #37
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About 55 psig and up around 14.6-.7V -- looking good. A/F looks good too.
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:23 AM   #38
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About 55 psig and up around 14.6-.7V -- looking good. A/F looks good too.
Not too shabby right lol? The car is running off a base tune at the moment and dealing with practically no exhaust the WB reading might not be 100% exact. After fixing a throttle body leak the car runs pretty damn good now.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nn...w373-h662-k-no



Replaced all of the ceramic fuses with ones from IPD along with cleaning the terminals and squeezing the metal contacts. Car seems to be happy so far.

Still have a bunch of stuff to work on:

-Tach not working when headlights are on
-Gas gauge might have issues, replaced the sender with a used OEM one a few months ago not sure if its that or the gauge itself
-brakes need to be re done
-fuel line needs to be replaced from the tank to engine
-replace fuel filter under the hood
-suspension and bushing are shot
-Need full exhaust
-Speedo needed is broken/missing and it doesnt move when the car drives
-Find 1 virgo or replace all 4 wheels with something else
-Lower the ass end to level it out
-Small power steering pump leak (might be hose to pump o ring)
-Body needs lots of love (might wait till next winter to tackle that job)
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Old 03-14-2018, 10:29 PM   #39
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Can't wait for a driverless Volvo wagon, I suppose its the best configuration
Renault has demonstrated one on Geneva motor show.
I'd rather sell my house in Athens and live in the wagon :-)

Last edited by Shiftner; 04-09-2018 at 09:33 PM..
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Old 03-20-2018, 09:07 AM   #40
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Took the pig for its first ever test drive on the road a few days ago. Had a pretty bad shifted belt on the front tire that was on a spare rim (I only have 3 virgos on it). Ditched the one spare and the other virgo for a matching set of dracos, so now its dracos in the front virgos in the back (im sure theres some sort of mullet joke in there).

After driving it for a tiny bit I realized the AOD trans wasnt kicking down, I found the kickdown cable near the TB not hooked up for whatever reason, didnt try hooking it up as it was getting late.

While on the road we started to try to tune it a bit for drive-ability but considering its basically open header we couldnt push it, living in a small neighborhood an all.

With the exception of the speedo needle not working the car wasnt too full of surprises while driving it. Feels like I have either a hanging caliper or frozen sliders.

The exhaust is a very tricky one with the swap cars im learning, the manifolds on it now are big and bulky. I would like to find some stock fox body manifolds or bbk shorties and take a BFH to the tubes if need be. Then next would be figuring out where and how to route the rest of the exhaust.

Not quite sure where to start honestly.... Brakes, exhaust, suspension, body work lol??? Either way I feel pretty accomplished considering my lack of time/cashflow in how far ive gotten in less than a year.
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Old 03-20-2018, 09:22 AM   #41
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Quote:
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I would like to find some stock fox body manifolds or bbk shorties and take a BFH to the tubes if need be.
The issue I had with the headers was the header coupling bracket touching the frame. While I dented the frame a bit a simpler solution is to grind off the bracket, turn it 90 degrees and weld it back on.

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Old 03-20-2018, 09:36 AM   #42
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The issue I had with the headers was the header coupling bracket touching the frame. While I dented the frame a bit a simpler solution is to grind off the bracket, turn it 90 degrees and weld it back on.

Good call, I saw how tight it was this past weekend. Def gonna need to do some trial and error. Do you think blockhugger style manifolds would be better? Im sure ill still have to modify them and possibly the frame itself.
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Old 03-20-2018, 09:50 AM   #43
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I used the Ford Racing headers for the 302 engine ($250). Fit without issue after the bracket trick. The frame didn't even need denting (much) after that.

Tight on the steering column but was solved by raising engine a half inch from the initial position.

Exhaust thread:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250576

Last edited by TestPoint; 03-20-2018 at 09:57 AM..
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Old 03-20-2018, 12:56 PM   #44
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Like testpoint - FRPP shorties on mine but both sides needed adjusting. No sliders on the calipers - fixed 2 piston rear/4 piston front. Safety first - tires and brakes.
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