Boosted on a budget

I dont think its dangerous... I usually try to use high quality ground washers to make sure they are flat.

They are flat washers. The alignment pin is still in the hole just not all the way in. It will be torqued evenly. I'm not too worried now knowing other people had to do the same thing.

I ended up reading and reading about installing the 240mm Saab plate and making sure the disc was not too thick. I mentioned what I was doing when I ordered the disc yet it still was made with an ~8mm thickness which is rather thick.

Erik, whenever you bolt the pressure plate down, the disc will be forced to create pressure against the plate making the fingers press in. This is not going to grab and cause the clutch to slip like crazy. Very bad engagement. So what you need to do is determine what spacing you need by tightening the plate down until the fingers are level with the top of the plate. This will allow the correct adjustment for engaging/disengaging against the flywheel.

Shane helped me with the using washers solution and how to correctly level the fingers. Helped a bunch since I couldn't find it exactly during my searches and no one replied to my cry for help lol.


So on another note, I realized why my car over boosted so much and I coul not get a steady adjustable boost pressure:



I will be porting this mug out soon. Man that is a crazy tiny hole.

And this happened

If its not one thing its another. I had two of those turbine housing bolts back out on mine.. and the wastegate actuator had become loose somehow. I thought my turbo had gotten laggier with the trans swap but it seems a snug actuator helps a lot!

Just do the weld a nut to it trick and it'll turn right out.

MrBrown said:

And this happened

Click to expand...

Nope

MrBrown said:

Nope

Click to expand...

welding a nut to it will definitly work but you need to build some material onto the broken piece like with a tig welder and then slide the nut over the filler material and weld to the nut. let it cool completely and then heat the housing up only with a little plumbers torch like a propane soldering torch.

put a washer over it first. then weld the nut on, let it cool then heat up thebhousimg with a torch

I'll try that out tonight. Thanks!

Ok Cosby. Here it is. Welded a washer on it. Filed it flat. Welded the nut on. Let it cool. Removed.



Red hot nut!!




Jean Claude Van Damn! It came out!



With that being said, the threads are f'd and will need a new tapping



Thanks for the advice about that washer. I think that was what I needed to add more mass for welding and penetration!

On to the porting!!!

MrBrown said:

Jean Claude Van Damn! It came out!

Click to expand...

MrBrown said:

Ok Cosby. Here it is. Welded a washer on it. Filed it flat. Welded the nut on. Let it cool. Removed.

Click to expand...

Interesting, never heard of welding a washer on first. I'll try that next time. I usually just keep welding nuts on there till it finally turns off. The most recent one where the alternator bushing bolt broke off in the block took about 10, but came out finally. I've taken some really gnarly rusted in bolts out of heads, blocks, tractor frames, rear ends.... the list goes on. Just turn the MIG up to 'high' and weld it up.

It's pretty crazy because I welded two nuts on that broke off prior to trying the washer idea. Maybe the extra area for fusing helps with preventing breakage.

glad it worked out for you! its a trick i learned at work pulling snapped bolts out of diesel heads

Not much for updates but I was able to bore out the turbine housing to allow adjustability. Check it out:





Not the smoothest but it will do



And for comparison- before=20.2mm, after=29.7mm




So with that being said, I should be able to prevent the boost spikes I had during the test drive and be able to tune in on the boost I want to run. I'm thinking 22-25psi but that may be more than I need. Goal is 300hp so it may take all of that and a few lbs more. We will see very soon!!!

Some more progress. I am moving very slow on getting this thing back on the road. I have had no motivation lately. I also get kind of bummed when I read other peoples rides and how fast they get their stuff together as well as how nice their stuff is.

Any who, here is what I have done so far.
Got the Flywheel back on:



Got the Pressure plate back on. I used an the old fork to align the disc:






Washers helped gap the plate allowing the fingers flush for a proper engage/disengagement:





And that is all I can do now. I am meaning literally. I have run into a problem that even hours of searching has not helped me. This is where I ask for help once more from the experts please.

So these are the only pivot balls that I have for the clutch fork. Both of my transmission bell housings were using this kind:




Here is the problem. The fork will not rest on the ball since its too short. The threads are not long enough to even add washers or spacers to help. I had an M46 fork I guess. All i know is that they are different forks but they are both cable forks. You can see below where the ball sits:



And the threads here:




What am I missing?!??! This is the last stop before the transmission goes in and I can drive this thing. Please help.

do you have a pic of the fork too? Isnt the cable style going to have the pivot ball on the passenger side with the fork extending all the way across the throw out bearing pulling the fork towards the engine?

Like this?


Or do you have a later fork that pivots over the ball on the driver side like this

MrBrown said:

I also get kind of bummed when I read other peoples rides and how fast they get their stuff together as well as how nice their stuff is.

Click to expand...

I'm the same way man. When things go good it's all good, but one bump in the road and it's easy to get discouraged. You've done more with this car than most people on the board get done and you're figuring it all out at your own pace. Not everyone is gonna pop down to their machine shop and whip up a CAD drawing and just crap out some beautiful adapter with their lathe. Enjoy what you're doing for you! There's people reading this thread thinking "man I wish I could get that done on my car", trust me.

Chris, mine does not look like either of those. My M46 had that top one but the one I have now looks like the top one but has a different look to it and has pins that hold the TOB.

Mike thanks for the remotivation. I just feel like I'm not inspired anymore by my own stuff.

But I did figure out that those two pivot balls I have are for the hatch struts ona wagon so now I am needing to find the one for the clutch fork lol. I am an idiot.

I guess I left it on the housing core I sent back to Ben. I cannot find one anywhere.