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removing rear springs lower bolt

mark244turbo

New member
Joined
Sep 18, 2010
Location
Netherlands
I want to lower my volvo 240 a bit so i bought a set of lesjofors lowering springs and adjustable gaz struts and shocks. I've completed the front end and are now working on the back.

The bolt thats holding the rear spring in place at the lower end is causing me problems.

I managed to break the nut loose with an impact gun, but the nut won't come of the nut. I can see about 3 mm of thread and rotate the spring seat, but there's no way i can hold the bolt to keep it from spinning when i am trying to remove the nut.

The bolt has a round head, so i can't use a wrench or socket to hold it in place. I've tried to fixate the bolt by putting a screw driver under the seat and put some pressure on it, but it doesn't generate enough friction to hold the bolt in place.

Does anybody have tips for my on how to remove the bolts from the lower spring seats?
 
I just had this problem when lowering my 240. As said above, using a prybar or a big screwdriver, put pressure on the stud and then impact the nut loose. It sounds like you're going to have to replace the stud with a bolt, which is what I had to do.
 
I just had this problem when lowering my 240. As said above, using a prybar or a big screwdriver, put pressure on the stud and then impact the nut loose. It sounds like you're going to have to replace the stud with a bolt, which is what I had to do.

That's what I do too, but I also re-install with the same technique or tack weld the stud in place.
 
I just had this problem when lowering my 240. As said above, using a prybar or a big screwdriver, put pressure on the stud and then impact the nut loose. It sounds like you're going to have to replace the stud with a bolt, which is what I had to do.

I first tried vice trips, but couldn't get enough grip on the bolt head. Then I tried to put pressure on the strut using a huge screw driver, while using the impact gun, but that didn't work either. Then I tried to press the retainer plate to the bolt while impacting. That also failed.

The retainer plate is damaged and needs to be replaced. I guess i'll just split the nuts on both sides and order new retainer plates and nuts from Volvo and replace the bolts with a regular hex bolt.

Splitting the nuts seems to be the easiest way to separate the nut from the bolt.
 
Which vice grips did you use? The kind with the rounded jaws doesn't seem to grip, but the kind with longer straight jaws seem to do OKish. FWIW if the plates aren't too spent (which sounds like it's not the case here) the reason I've found they let the studs spin is that they get bent out, perhaps from over-tightening. When I put mine back together, lightly pounding the plate back flat lets the splines on the plate reengage with the stud and hold it still for retightening.

IPD has replacements pretty cheap. The Volvo ones come with the stud
OE https://www.ipdusa.com/products/10309/121668-rear-spring-retaining-plate-240-260
aftermarket https://www.ipdusa.com/products/10287/121270-rear-spring-retaining-plate-240-260
 
Which vice grips did you use? The kind with the rounded jaws doesn't seem to grip, but the kind with longer straight jaws seem to do OKish. FWIW if the plates aren't too spent (which sounds like it's not the case here) the reason I've found they let the studs spin is that they get bent out, perhaps from over-tightening. When I put mine back together, lightly pounding the plate back flat lets the splines on the plate reengage with the stud and hold it still for retightening.

IPD has replacements pretty cheap. The Volvo ones come with the stud
OE https://www.ipdusa.com/products/10309/121668-rear-spring-retaining-plate-240-260
aftermarket https://www.ipdusa.com/products/10287/121270-rear-spring-retaining-plate-240-260


These are what I have used.
Sorry. I meant to embed an image, but am having some technical difficulties at the moment.
 
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milwaukee-all-trades-needle-nose-pliers-48-22-3506-64_1000.jpg
 
And of course I used a vice grip with a rounded mouth.:pow:

One plate is severely damaged by the many attempts to pry and impact the bolt off.

I ordered a new set of plates and lock nuts from the local Volvo dealer for ?€15 each. They will be delivered on friday, so I should be able tot finish the rear suspension on friday.

In the mean time i fabricated two taxi braces (from strut tot bulkhead) from tubing of an old bike carrier. The 1 mm thick steel tubing with bent flat ends with a bolt hole was ideal for this. I only had to cut the tubes to the right lenght and weld them back together. Together with the strut bar and lower chassis brace that should make the front pretty solid.

I can't wait to drive my 240 with all the chassis braces, Poly bushings (front), lesjofors and gas struts and shocks installed.
 
While you have the lower bolt plates off the car. Weld the top of those little bolts to the plate. Also be careful to observe the torque rating on the nuts. I think it's something really low like 10-12lb ft.
 
Thanks for the tips!

I will certainly tack weld the bolt to the plate, to keep it from spinning the next time I try to remove them.
And use a torque wrench to not overtighten the nut.
 
Well, i managed to remove both retainer plates. I had to cut through the bolt with a nut splitter, dremel, grinder, iron saw blade and finally a chisel and hamer. And of course brutal force.

On the other side i cleaned the tar of the bolt thread, clamped the retainer plate with a welding clamp so it couldn't spin and used a long breaker bar to break the nut free. No impact gun, no brute force, no grinder, chisel etc.

The nut came of without problems within a few minutes.

Tip of the day. Clamp the retainer plate firmly in place and gently pry the nut loose with a socket and long bar.
 
Well, i managed to remove both retainer plates. I had to cut through the bolt with a nut splitter, dremel, grinder, iron saw blade and finally a chisel and hamer. And of course brutal force.

On the other side i cleaned the tar of the bolt thread, clamped the retainer plate with a welding clamp so it couldn't spin and used a long breaker bar to break the nut free. No impact gun, no brute force, no grinder, chisel etc.

The nut came of without problems within a few minutes.

Tip of the day. Clamp the retainer plate firmly in place and gently pry the nut loose with a socket and long bar.

Maybe you should upgrade from the Grease Monkey Barbie impact wrench?
 
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