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Crunchy BNE mounts.

FezMonki

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2015
Location
Italy
So I just finished swapping struts and mounts with Kaplhenke's, and somethings crunchy on the passenger side (it's a spring rubbing).

I didn't have any instructions so I followed the pic in another post, and installed them with BNE facing the engine, using the outmost countersunk hole, and the holes closest to the engine of each group.

Cut 2 coils, placed the aluminium hat bushing between spring perch and the strut mount (there's nothing else that's supposed to go in between there right?)

hEHOxBz.jpg


I can't seem to get the adjustment neither all the way in (which is how it was set up by P.O.) neither all the way out as I think the mount is banging on the dome at that point.

Someone tell me how I royally effed up please.
 
Sounds like its setup correctly.

If you are adjusted all the way out and you still have spring clearance issues you can swap the mounts left to right ( it moves the adjustment outwards ) .
 
Sounds like its setup correctly.

If you are adjusted all the way out and you still have spring clearance issues you can swap the mounts left to right ( it moves the adjustment outwards ) .

I read that comment of yours in another thread, but quite frankly, this was my first suspension work ever and I'm really not looking forward to pulling it all out again.

Is it supposed to be able to go all the way out set up like this? Maybe I just didn't bang on it enough.
 
Take the 2 bolts with the kidney shaped plate off. if the bolts are bottomed out against the end of the slot, banging wont make a difference.

If you want to fix it by banging, you can try to create some clearance in the strut tower for the big springs.
 
Take the 2 bolts with the kidney shaped plate off. if the bolts are bottomed out against the end of the slot, banging wont make a difference.

If you want to fix it by banging, you can try to create some clearance in the strut tower for the big springs.

Oh no, I mean they didn't get there at all as I think the mount was already at the dome edge. But I'll check again tomorrow.
 
If you're using stock diameter springs there is very little room to play. It's not going to match previous marks either because in any position they start with more caster and camber. I matched the plates to the old strut mounts and got everything in fine, mounting holes are in different spots than originally but the actual strut is very close but with a tad more camber and caster.
 
If you're using stock diameter springs there is very little room to play. It's not going to match previous marks either because in any position they start with more caster and camber. I matched the plates to the old strut mounts and got everything in fine, mounting holes are in different spots than originally but the actual strut is very close but with a tad more camber and caster.

Do you recall if you had to set the mounts all the way "outwards" by any chance?
 
Sounds like you got it correct. I had to "massage" my passenger inner strut tower to keep the spring from rubbing and catching. There was also a good amount of undercoating in that area as well. As a note in regards to BNEs properly fitting,after getting into my engine swap, I found that the front end had been bumped some time during its life as the radiator support showed a bit of crinkle. Not saying yours is that case, but age can and will tweak things. Everything still aligned properly, no rubbing, and no noises. The mounts are very much worth your efforts.
 
I'm dealing with the same issue, any sort of negative camber with these plates and my spring rubs on the driver's side. I'll probably go in there with a wood block and hammer. Interested to see how yours pans out.
 
Keep in mind that the mounts have "negative" camber built in. I was able to set my camber at ~1.4* with stock diameter springs and no rub. (Measured with an iPhone app and a piece of wood)
 
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Thought I had a better pic from before install.

I used these holes. They won't fit with stock springs if you use any of the other holes, unless the strut tower gets massaged......a bunch. The most rearward and inboard sets of holes, effectively pushing the mount as far forward and outward as possible.

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This is what it looks like in the car. If you look closely you can see four black marks around the hole in the strut tower for the strut to stick through. Those four marks are marking the center line where the original strut mount located the strut. Can see that the new strut mounts set the strut inboard and rearward a bit, which is the closest I could get to the original strut location. Also can see where original adjustment location was and where the current marks are with new mounts. The center notch in the alignment plate normally points to the dimple in the strut tower, she's way out now and still negative camber. Haven't had the car aligned yet so not sure what the actual specs are but I'm doubting the strut will really move in any direction without the spring hitting something.

It seems like you may be one set of holes off either pushing the mount to far rearward or perhaps too far inboard.

Also though, I had to adjust mine way out, almost to the max, just to get them to fit and still achieving more negative camber than stock.
 
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This may be easier to see though flash jacks it up.

With stock springs you would want the most rearward holes and the most inward holes.
 
no, -1.4*


:nod:

I got (-0.8) degrees measured on a laser hunter. 1.4 seems pretty high on stock springs if my search memory serves me well. Was the block of wood only touching the wheel or touching the tire? Sounds as if the tire bulge at the ground added some angle that would not exist with an alignment head.

A block of wood is not going to budge that material inside the strut towers. It took many blows with a ball peen hammer to get mine there.

-Rob
 
I used a length of wood that touched the rim only. Not saying that my method is as accurate as a professional alignment rack but I was able to get that measurement on both sides without the springs binding, which is more negative than I was able to achieve with the stock mounts. Using the same measurement method I could only get about -1* with the stock mounts.
 
I got (-0.8) degrees measured on a laser hunter. 1.4 seems pretty high on stock springs if my search memory serves me well. Was the block of wood only touching the wheel or touching the tire? Sounds as if the tire bulge at the ground added some angle that would not exist with an alignment head.

A block of wood is not going to budge that material inside the strut towers. It took many blows with a ball peen hammer to get mine there.

-Rob

That is A LOT of negative camber on stock diameter springs. Max I ever got with stock diameter springs was -1.1 As you lower it you do get a little more negative camber though.
 
This is position 1, recommended for stock diameter spring setups
 

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I was originally using my phone to try and read the angles but now I'm using an angle finder on my brake disk and I could only get ~-0.3 and I still have spring rub. Interesting to hear what you guys are saying about negative camber despite being pushed so far out. I'll take another look at mine when I get chance, maybe I've just been reading wrong, or maybe my car is just that screwed up haha never know on these old things.

I will say though, love the way these feel!
 
I molested it a lot today, but it absolutely refuses to go all the way out. I goes out a little further on the drivers side, but no go on the passenger, almost at the middle.
Re-tightened everything, tightened the top nut a bit more, hammered the spring perch back into place (it has slid away from the spring end a bit?).

After going left to right and back a couple times, it crunched and then it stopped. Seems ok on the road, no crunching, I just feel something holding the wheel when I go back from right to left, but not much.
 
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