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91 240 positive battery cable wire to bus

durk80

durk80

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2015
Location
South GA
After reading some horror stories about old battery/ alternator cables starting fires, I decided to begin replacing the wires.

I wanted to make my own battery cable for my daily driver after paying $30 to replace one on my buddy's car.

My only problem is the connector that goes to the bus in the battery distribution box on the fender. The original one that is on there is much larger and longer than a standard female disconnect spade connector.

Is it possible to source these larger connectors to make a proper connection, or should I just buy a pre-made cable and be done with it?

Thanks in advance :-)
 
The terminal at either end of the power distribution junction is 7/16" (.4375). I didn't see any terminals that large on Dave's site. *

I have the 7/16" terminals in stock, but they have a tab so they'll lock into an insulator. The tab can be bent down flush so it's out of the way.

* correction: the terminals are 3/8", not 7/16". They are available on Dave's site. http://www.240turbo.com/blackvinyl.html#.375inchterminals

I also have the heavy duty crimp tools and polarity specific battery terminals, terminal covers, glue lined heat shrink and cable lugs with ?", 5/16" and 3/8" holes for 2, 1 and 0 gauge wire.

This 1800 has 2 gauge cable.

OdysseyBattery1800b.jpg


Notice the P and N on the terminals denoting polarity. They're actually different sizes, not universal like most of the junk you find in the auto parts stores.

OdysseyBattery1800a.jpg


I used 1 gauge on my 142E. For comparison, the 'smaller' red wire going to the distribution block is 2 gauge.

OdysseyBattery142.jpg


I can either slip an 8 gauge wire for the distribution junction in the crimp with the main cable or provide a tap like the one pictured below and a heavier 6 gauge or possibly larger wire to the distribution junction. It depends on how large of a wire will fit in the 7/16" terminal.

41DQiQ-lX6L.jpg


Of course, it'll cost more than $30 for a custom heavy duty cable.
 
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Anybody have links to good crimp tools? I need a professional pair for doing factory level terminal crimps of different sizes. I'm currently borrowing a set of Blue Point ones that work great, but not the biggest fan of Blue Point stuff; it can be hit or miss.

I'm looking for the kind that bends the metal tabs over in on themselves, not just pinches those crappy blue and yellow butt connectors down. Savvy?
 
I have an iwiss ratching crimper kit with a bunch of different dies from Amazon for < $30. It's pretty good quality and works well for normal wiring, up to 10ga, with insulated and non-insulated connectors. It doesn't do weatherpack, and it's not factory quality ($150 per style), but it is a huge improvement over the flimsy non-ratcheting crimp/strip/cut $2 checkout specials.
 
KeizerBrickGuy said:
I use this kit at work, does great for insulated and non-insulated connectors:ToolAid 18920
Click to expand...


I enjoy my ratcheting crimpers too! However, they are not the correct tool for what I, and the OP, may be after.

I am trying to crimp Delphi terminals.
https://goo.gl/images/WLvYbQ

DELPHI crimp tool! Ooh that's what I need. Adding that word into the search yielded great results!!!

https://goo.gl/images/MX5q47

Back to OP, which kind of crimper tool is good for male terminals on our Volvos? Just pinching it down isn't good enough. The pliers I use fold the tabs in on themselves and down into the wire. I need to find a pic.....

Here, like this, https://goo.gl/images/Xnevi4

The rookie move is to use thus junk on your car, and just smash it down with standard crimpers.

https://goo.gl/images/LUPQn7
 
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hiperfauto said:
The terminal at either end of the power distribution junction is 7/16" (.4375). I didn't see any terminals that large on Dave's site.
Click to expand...

Did they change them for 1991 cars? This terminal block below, right?

Never seen one with a 7/16 inch terminal before. The ones one my cars have always been 3/8 inch.
Dave B

harness16.jpg
 
dbarton said:
harness16.jpg
Click to expand...


See, the proper tool is needed to make this ^^^^ style of crimp. Can't just go in there with a set of cheap stripper/crimper pliers and expect a good connection. I need to get myself a set....which ones you guys linked will do that! ^^^
 
ZVOLV said:
See, the proper tool is needed to make this ^^^^ style of crimp. Can't just go in there with a set of cheap stripper/crimper pliers and expect a good connection. I need to get myself a set....which ones you guys linked will do that! ^^^
Click to expand...

Takes some practice to make them look like factory crimps, but I use a simple Thomas & Betts 9 inch one like this for 95% of my crimps. About $40. That little spike does well to push deep, strong crimps.

272x193_pli-thomas-betts-wt112m.jpg


There are cheaper knock offs on fleabay for half that price that look just fine:
https://www.ebay.com/p/Eclipse-Tools-Pro-Kit-Crimper-Pliers-9-5-Wire-Cutter-Crimping-Non-insulated/7008153974
Dave B.
 
In regard to post #13:
That is referred to as an "F crimp". It is used for lugs (as shown in the photos of this thread), Weatherpack, Metripack, Molex connectors, and others.

I've used these for that type of crimp and they work well.
 
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Rusty_ratchet said:
I've used these for that type of crimp and they work well.
Click to expand...

Yes! That's exactly what I have been using recently and they make the shape that I want in the pic. My links sucked, but the key word in yours and mine was DELPHI!! Im gonna get me a set asap. Thanks for the help guys.

Sounds like the OP should get some good terminals and a pair of Delphi pliers for about $20 for a cheap pair.
 
dbarton said:
Did they change them for 1991 cars? This terminal block below, right?

Never seen one with a 7/16 inch terminal before. The ones one my cars have always been 3/8 inch.
Dave B

harness16.jpg
Click to expand...

No, you're correct. I didn't measure them. I assumed the larger headlight terminals I have were 3/8" and the even larger ones that fit the terminal block were 7/16".
 
I use the wratcheting crimp tool that gets both crimps in one squeeze of the tool. Makes for crimps as nice as OEM. I've purchased them from the Snap-On dealer and the Mac Tool dealer.

Dave... The tool you are using does not make the nice crimps!

Guys... No aluminum connectors! No stereo store sh!t butt connectors. They always fail.
 
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