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Old 01-16-2018, 11:50 PM   #26
PromiseRing
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Never mind owner is lazy and useless and won’t get anything done. Car will sit broken in his garage until he decides to scrap it. Thank you guys for your help.
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Old 01-17-2018, 03:04 PM   #27
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Can you adjust ignition timing via the distributor on a Regina car? There seems to be a slot for adjustment.
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Old 01-17-2018, 03:43 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Can you adjust ignition timing via the distributor on a Regina car?
CPS's position determines timing...getting distributor cap off weakens spark, or if far enough off, send spark to wrong cylinder.
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Old 01-17-2018, 05:36 PM   #29
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CPS's position determines timing...getting distributor cap off weakens spark, or if far enough off, send spark to wrong cylinder.
Can’t the CPS only go on one way? On lh i just removes and replaced when it failed and never bothered with timing.
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Old 01-17-2018, 06:33 PM   #30
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Can you adjust ignition timing via the distributor on a Regina car? There seems to be a slot for adjustment.
No. Computer controls it. It knows where the crank is. Dist mount hall effect sensors do not, therefore those are adjustable manually.
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Old 01-20-2018, 05:23 PM   #31
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I had a Regina 940 for ~20 years, always starts in 0 F weather. Did you check fuel pressure, pump may run but not put out enough oomph. Going on memory you need 35 psi, when blipping throttle it should go up to 43 psi, again going on memory. Car will start with 20 or 25 psi, but hesitate when you want to accelerate. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel manifold, rig up a cheap gauge and check FP.
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Old 01-20-2018, 05:47 PM   #32
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I had a Regina 940 for ~20 years, always starts in 0 F weather. Did you check fuel pressure, pump may run but not put out enough oomph. Going on memory you need 35 psi, when blipping throttle it should go up to 43 psi, again going on memory. Car will start with 20 or 25 psi, but hesitate when you want to accelerate. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel manifold, rig up a cheap gauge and check FP.
Schrader valve wasn’t until 93+ i believe. Even if it wasn’t getting fuel that wouldn’t explain why it wouldn’t start on starting fluid.
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Old 01-23-2018, 02:52 PM   #33
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I was joking that the no start conditon and intermittent tach are indicative that you have a Regina car, because it’s less robust than the comparable Bosch system.

Biggest. falsehood. ever.
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Old 01-23-2018, 02:55 PM   #34
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If you have fuel and spark, and it still won't start with a little throttle pressure to bypass the IAC, odds are that it's the MAP sensor. It's a $30 GM part. They go bad once every 300K miles.

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Old 05-26-2018, 06:28 PM   #35
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If you have fuel and spark, and it still won't start with a little throttle pressure to bypass the IAC, odds are that it's the MAP sensor. It's a $30 GM part. They go bad once every 300K miles.

-Ryan
Would a bad map sensor cause a no start though? Maybe I can grab one from the JY and parts swap. Bet they’re cheap cheap.

Heading to Springfield tomorrow to mess with the car again. Plan to bring some real starting fluid and also swap out a spare CPS I have.
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Old 05-27-2018, 02:10 PM   #36
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So I drove there today, reinstalled the dist, and it started right up. Runs like absolute garbage. Any ideas? Smells very rich. It was in time last time I checked. Adjusting the dist does nothing as expected. Unplugging the map or iat (whatever the thing is that’s located in the amm position) also does nothing at all.
https://youtu.be/pvCQQKBsJ7w
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Old 05-27-2018, 05:17 PM   #37
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Car has spark and kind of runs off of ether but not really. I made a triple jumper to jump the FPR (pump and RSR) and still nothing. Any ideas? Injectors not firing? I’m 100% sure the pump works and pumps a LOT of fuel.

Plugs are dry after pulling them.
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Old 05-27-2018, 07:13 PM   #38
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Smells extremely rich. Got it running on its own. Timed correctly I’m 100% sure. Barely idles but sometimes idles very smoothly. I can hear injectors clicking. Doesn’t respond to throttle at all except for idling even worse and maybe stalling/backfiring. Wtf
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Old 05-27-2018, 10:15 PM   #39
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Car is for sale at $10 firm local pickup only in Springfield, MO. Friends don’t let friends drive 7/9 cars.
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Old 05-28-2018, 02:16 AM   #40
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Unplugging the map or iat (whatever the thing is that’s located in the amm position) also does nothing at all.
The one in the air hose is the intake air temp sensor. The MAP sensor is in the left rear corner, hanging off the diagonal strut brace. Needs electrical and vacuum line hooked up. They work together to tell the computer how much air is getting in. Coolant temp sensor for the computer is under the manifold, by intake runner #4. Bad connection or bad sensor might be telling the system that it's -40 degrees. Or +450 degrees.
http://www3.telus.net/neatcrap/volvo/sensors.gif

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Smells extremely rich. Barely idles but sometimes idles very smoothly. Doesn’t respond to throttle at all except for idling even worse and maybe stalling/backfiring.
Check the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose (pull it off while pressurized) for gas leaking from a torn diaphragm. Check the idle switch on the throttle body for proper adjustment. Should click just as the throttle starts to move. Check everywhere else for vacuum leaks.

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Car is for sale at $10 firm local pickup only in Springfield, MO. Friends don’t let friends drive 7/9 cars.
Maybe it would run better if you stopped "texting and driving while blaring your music", then running into innocent hobos in trash cans?
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Old 05-28-2018, 08:42 AM   #41
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Doesn’t Regina not care about vacuum leaks because it’s map based? But either way I fixed some vacuum leaks. Also i swapped in another MAP sensor and IAT sensor and no difference. CTS is new, crank sensor is new. I don’t think an IAC would stop the car from running either, especially when i give it gas.

The owner of this car used it as a trail rig essentially so who knows what has gotten wet...

Guess I could check the fuel pressure regulator.
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Old 05-28-2018, 02:03 PM   #42
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Quote:
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Smells extremely rich. Got it running on its own.
Where is distributor located...in the head or the block? If block distributor, and it was twisted about, one has screwed the pooch, most likely.

Smells rich suggests you got the wrong CTS, or spark is weak, but you claimed plugs were dry, which suggests a misdiagnoses.

Disconnect CTS....in warm weather, Regina will assume its upto temperature.

What year?
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Old 05-29-2018, 09:52 AM   #43
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Where is distributor located...in the head or the block? If block distributor, and it was twisted about, one has screwed the pooch, most likely.

Smells rich suggests you got the wrong CTS, or spark is weak, but you claimed plugs were dry, which suggests a misdiagnoses.

Disconnect CTS....in warm weather, Regina will assume its upto temperature.

What year?
1991. He’s replaced the CTS with a new unit from iPd. They’re the same as lh2.4 right?
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Old 05-29-2018, 11:52 PM   #44
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1991. He’s replaced the CTS with a new unit from iPd. They’re the same as lh2.4 right?
I said unplug it on a warm day, then drive on. See how it runs when engine temp is at operational temp.


I'd have to check, but I think CTS is different on Regina
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Old 05-30-2018, 12:27 AM   #45
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Volvo Part # 1 346 030-8

Bosch 0280130069
Bosch 0280130032
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