b27f spring loaded fuel screw stuck

so i am finally around to the point where i would like to get my mixture correct. only problem is the mixture screw which is a stem sticking out the top of the meter housing doesnt eant to seem to go anywhere. this is a 79 so this is before the steel ball plug. ive tried turning it with a 3mm, it's stripped out, tried vice grips and penetration lube, just burred the stem. tried hitting the center with a punch and hammer, just makes a big divet. has anyone run into a similar problem before? have you had any success in getting it to function? i was thinking of removing it and having a plugged hole like delorean guys do but i dont know if it's part of the housing or if you can remove it from the underside. experience? pointers?

Wait ! ! !

What are you doing?

The 3mm CO adjustment is stripped out ? ? ? ? ?

The idle screws are intended to not be adjusted.

The adjustment is the 3mm CO screw and the CO computer managed frequency valve based on the O2 sensor.

Are you getting correct output from the O2 sensor? Should swing around 0.45 volts. What does you dwell meter say is going on?

No dwell meter? Well . . . that is a problem.

The O2 sensors only last 25k miles. How old is yours?

Please understand the operation better before you do anything more.

it's only a year old, but every time i changed something in the fuel system i plugged the o2 sensor back in only to have it try and lambda the car to death. i have a recent accumulator, both new fuel pumps, new lines and frequency valve and injectors. i have been running and prefer running with yhe unplugged default setting so i really couldnt care less what the o2 sensor is doing (it needs to be unplugged anyways to adjust CO per the kjet manual). after installing the injectors it went from meh to super rich so it needs to happen especially before installing the custom exhaust. i also have a CO meter at work. it's just that this CO screw on the housing hasent moved in god knows when.

i asked around at work today, one of my coworkers is thinking it's a plug that i will have to extract.

It comes out of there but you will get to force it. It is supposed to mate up with the 3mm allen down in there to set CO. Get the rubber plug on a stick used for four cylinder cars to plug the large false air leak it will make.
Set open loop CO to .8 Volt on the O2 sensor in open loop at idle. If it doesn't want to idle set like that you have false air leaks, balance screws are not set right, injector(s) are junk, issue with fuel distributor...

Set CO with a sharp 3mm allen or a tool intended for it that is not worn out. The 3mm allen in there can get caked with yum-yum so clean it up with the magic spray.

Will your O2 sensor instantly make one volt when rich? If not it is junk.

thanks for the specs, i will see into them later as for now the car runs fine but im wanting to fine tune it since it has not been done in a while and always has run a tad rich durring summer. im thinking of ditching the lambda bung when i go to fab a new exhaust but if it turns out well and performs to my liking on some test drives, i may reconsider. im looking to go more towards the euro spec of CO around 1.7 to 2.

A report back from the field. after refurbishing the air meter and associated gaskets and o rings, along with the line pressure regulator. i was able to remove the plug and tune the afr over the course of the week along with perfected advance timing.

i take back my statement on the lambda probe as it helps out well with keeping a good afr across the power band. this is the best this car has probably ran since new.

the one thing i want to know now is when i go to the set of custom headers and exhaust is if i should run one lambda probe per bank (if that's even possible), have only one for the whole engine on one side or run one at the merge pipewhich will be pass the transmission.

Not sure how the control unit would deal with two input signals.

The O2 sensor is designed to operate in a specific temperature band that is affected by the distance back from the exhaust manifold. I would suggest that 'behind the transmission' is too far back. It should be located approximately the same distance back as the original design.

im guessing having it on one bank at the end of the header and tuning it from there will have to do. ive ran wideband single sensors this way on other vehicles and it seems to work fine

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Kjets On a Plane said:

Single heated sensor farther down?

Click to expand...

is there a bosch part # for one or would it be a custom application with say the heater running off of terminal 30?