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tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

Hello Tfrasca, where did you find this downpipe flange TD0$ -> 3" ?
Thank you, very nice car. Regards, Kay


So, here's the radiator solution I came up with. I kept with the overkill theme. I'm super happy with the way the mounting system came out. I just copied the stock set up, but had to move the whole thing forward a couple inches for fan clearance. It uses all the stock 140 bushings, so vibration shouldn't be an issue. Noah's welds are great, and it was rad to watch that happen.



This is what I ended up doing for the alternator bracket. It's bolted to an M12 stud that I tapped into the block, and the tensioner is made from a combination of B20 parts and a generic curved arm from the local parts store. It's pretty tight between the idler arm mount and the alternator, but I'll have to wait and see how much engine movement there is.



Here's the beginning of the 3" downpipe. You can also see the repair I had to do to the exhaust housing stud when it snapped off yesterday. I ended up having to drill it out completely and cut a shoulder on the backside to use a bolt. Pretty lame, but it'll work.



Pretty slow progress, but now that the radiator is mounted I can work my way forward with the intercooler and oil cooler, and things should progress pretty quickly from there.

 
Going back a few posts but I also found my aeroquip drain hose cooked through during an engine pull. Actually mine was cooked THROUGH underneath a DEI heat sleeve, I can only assume it didn't leak because it was on top of the hose at a bend.

I replaced my hose with same and put it on the consumable list. My hose cooked through despite being wrapped in DEI heat sleeve then sprial wrapped in DEI heat tape. I just don't think any rubber hose is going to survive surrounded by a header. The braiding won't hurt, but I would plan on keeping an eye on that hose all the same.
 
Going back a few posts but I also found my aeroquip drain hose cooked through during an engine pull. Actually mine was cooked THROUGH underneath a DEI heat sleeve, I can only assume it didn't leak because it was on top of the hose at a bend.

I replaced my hose with same and put it on the consumable list. My hose cooked through despite being wrapped in DEI heat sleeve then sprial wrapped in DEI heat tape. I just don't think any rubber hose is going to survive surrounded by a header. The braiding won't hurt, but I would plan on keeping an eye on that hose all the same.

Yeah, I'll keep an eye on the braided hose. I know that's the highest heat area in the whole engine bay, but I was still surprised to see the Aeroquip hose in such bad shape after only a couple thousand miles.

The cool thing about the braided hose is that between the adapter and the threaded fitting, the actual hose is a couple inches further from the exhaust housing than before. Hoping that helps.
 
Well, the car's been running great and I've been putting some miles on it. So obviously, it's time to take it apart again. I pulled the M41 out and got the T5 mocked up yesterday. I got a 240 trans tunnel from Hiperfauto, which makes fitting it in the car much easier.

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It sits a bit rotated to the left with the DeeWorks adapter on the "upright" setting, but I think I can massage the tunnel some more and it'll be fine.

This is what I'm thinking for the trans mount:

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The reason I want to do this and not the stock mustang mount is to get a wider footprint and hopefully reduce engine rotation. I figure if I can use two mounts further apart, they can be softer and still offer some stability.

Ideally, I'd angle the mounts forward to mimic the stock setup. I always thought it was weird how T5 swaps use vertical mounts when the motor mounts are tilted back. But everyone does it, so I'm sure it's great. We'll see how much effort I want to put into angling these two mounts.

Any input on that?
 
Ideally, I'd angle the mounts forward to mimic the stock setup. I always thought it was weird how T5 swaps use vertical mounts when the motor mounts are tilted back. But everyone does it, so I'm sure it's great. We'll see how much effort I want to put into angling these two mounts.

Any input on that?

Dave Barton Changed his mounts to match the stock style. I checked his website but couldn't find anything. It must have been in a thread here somewhere. He had diagrams of everything also.
 
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Chipping away at the T5 swap. I ended up making a pretty ridiculous looking crossmember and trans mount bracket, but I mocked it up and it works great. My goal was to use mounts at the same angle as stock, to push against the motor mount angle. I also wanted to have as wide a footprint as possible to reduce engine rock while still being able to use soft mounts.

And yes, I've barely figured out how to use my welder. Luckily, I know my way around a can of black spray paint.

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I dropped my drive shaft off today, so that should be ready this week. Then it's just a matter of pulling the trans out to put the clutch in, and welding up the tunnel.
 
I bought a new welder over the summer. I struggled and struggled with it. Hated it. Then I figured out I had the polarity wrong for welding with gas. :oops:
Works great now. :lol:

Ha! I got mine from a friend who'd been using it successfully for big furniture projects, so I know the polarity is correct. I double checked it, too.

Equipment-wise, my main issues are the daisy chain of extension cords and power strips that is powering the welder, and the tank being full of straight CO2. I think that with C25 and a more direct power source, it would work better.

That said, I can lay down a perfect bead on a nice exposed lap joint. But once I get into the weird corners and angles, it falls apart.
 
Just read this front to back and I’m blown away with your cleanliness and engine bay/build. You and I were cut from the same cloth as far as that stuff goes! Looks incredible.

Subscribed!
 
I had nothing but trouble with my pro 5.0 shifter

I like my ebay knock off. Only issue was having to disassemble, clean, and reassemble using locktite on everything, and grease the ball seat.

I was wondering about this shifter. It came on the trans, so I was planning on using it. Jack, what were your troubles?

I did plan on taking it apart and greasing the ball more. It seems to have trouble self centering from 5th. The springs are adjusted properly, it just feels like it hangs up coming back to neutral.

I think I'd prefer the feel of a stock shifter, but I've read that the stock shift stops aren't accurate and you can 'over shift' and bend shift forks, etc. Any truth in that?
 
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