B20 no start issue

Back story:
this is in an Amazon that I've essentially gone through 100%. Engine is a rebuilt B20B, wiring is stock. After finding out that the original coil wasn't working, I've gone to an electronic ignition set up from Hot-Spark.



Married to this:



Here are things in the car:

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Engine turns over just fine, I get 4-5 psi of fuel pressure (electric Holley pump by the tank), coil does everything perfectly (I get pulsing, checked it while engine was being cranked by one of the kids). I tried to check for continuity between spark plug wire and plug and had nothing.

What should I check ? Should I be running a resistor, Hot-Spark says it's optional with that coil on 4 cyl engines.

What are you using for an ignition switch and where is power for the coil coming from?

Hey Ian!

It's a Standard P/N: US14. Wired properly (I think), I copied what I had done on the 4 door. But that car has a regular points ignition.

Here is a horrible picture of the back of it. Center portion of switch is what feeds the + side of the coil.

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I did just notice that I'm running P/N 3BOS4C2 from Hot Spark on a 003 distributor, which is not listed as compatible with it. I am cleaning up an 002 distributor to run instead, it will make a solid contact with the base of the ignition module. The 003 doesn't make good contact due to ridges being in the way.

Here is a better picture of the switch. Ignition is where the coil feeds from.

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No dice on the distributor. If I do what's shown below, the test light never lights up.

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OK, the ignition switch looks like it's wired correctly.

Is the distributor drive gear installed the right way? If you installed when the marks are lined up on the timing gears, it'll be 180? off. When the marks on the timing gears are lined up, the engine is at TDC for cylinder #4, not #1.

You can swap the wires around on the cap to see if that's the problem if they'll reach.

I'll try that. I did flip it 180 this morning since I wasn't getting the rotor to line up with wire #1. I'll try flipping it back, I'm tired enough to have probably made a silly mistake.

No go.

How can I check that my spark plugs are getting power ? Is what I showed below the proper way to test them ? I'm starting to wonder if the ignition module isn't fried, I have checked and double checked everything else since I knew how to check those parts.

Webers are getting fuel, I removed both jet inspection covers and could smell gas.

Get a spare spark plug, connect a wire and set it on the valve cover. It should make a spark when cranked. If not, try grounding the plug with a jumper wire.

I don't think you can test a high voltage spark with a test light. It'll probably blow the bulb.

hiperfauto said:

Get a spare spark plug, connect a wire and set it on the valve cover. It should make a spark when cranked. If not, try grounding the plug with a jumper wire.

I don't think you can test a high voltage spark with a test light. It'll probably blow the bulb.

Click to expand...

Thanks again Ian. It looks like the ignition module is bad, I am not getting spark but the coil is definitely working (it charges at 12.3 volts).

Is it possible to run a regular points and condenser set up with that Bosch coil ? How would I wire it ?

Sure, just connect the wire from the points/condenser to the negative side of the coil.

hiperfauto said:

Sure, just connect the wire from the points/condenser to the negative side of the coil.

Click to expand...

Cool, and leave the + side disconnected ? I have enough spare distributors that this seems like a cheap, quick fix for now. I'm supposed to drive the thing down to get the headliner installed tomorrow morning.

Leave the wire from the ignition switch on the positive terminal.

I think you should check power at your coil. You said the center lead is going to the +coil? I'm pretty sure that the center lead on that switch is the start position, and coil should be on the ign spot.

I'll double check tomorrow. I'm not getting any luck with the regular distributor, I could very well have wired something incorrectly.

Coil is getting power from the ignition post.

So you should have a wire from the car that has 12V+ on one side of the coil, whenever the key is on.

And the negative terminal on the coil should go to the distributor, where it is grounded to charge the coil, and ungrounded to fire the coil. The distributor is supposed to make an on and off again connection to ground the coil.

You can test the low tension side of things out with a multimeter. Just check that the positive side (leading to the ignition switch) has 12V+. Then check that the other side is getting grounded and ungrounded - use the ohmmeter setting to check for continuity to ground.

If you're getting the low tension side right, then check to see if the coil itself is firing. I'd start with the coil wire itself, to rule out weird things happening with the rotor/cap/etc. Just pull the coil wire off the distributor cap, stick an old spark plug in it (doesn't matter if it fits snugly) and place it on a metal surface, and crank the motor around. If you're not getting sparks at that point, you might have a bad coil.

Fun fact - there's certainly no dwell protection on an old mechanical point distributor coil. If you leave the ignition key on with the engine not running, it's possible that the points are closed and the coil could be 'on' continuously. They're not designed for that, they're supposed to only be on maybe half the time, maybe less. If left on like that they'll overheat and fail, it only takes a few minutes sometimes to kill one.

Did a bunch of tests as recommended by Hot Spark, all checked out. Coil seems to be fine:

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I tried a different ignition switch (exact same model) and things went weird:
No more On position, the engine cranks when I try the On position and nothing happens in the Run position.

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Am I crazy for wanting to try this switch ? Could I run the accessories with the ignition components ?
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you can run accessories with ign stuff, but it makes for hard starts if everything is drawing while the starter is trying to go. I would try it, leaving all the accessories off until you verify that something else is not causing your issues.

No dice: I'm going to have to get it to a shop and let them figure it out. I lack the proper understanding of ignition systems and wiring to get to the bottom of this quickly and I can't give up too many more hours to get this car up and running.

The good thing is, it is one of just 3 items keeping it from daily duties. One caliper is seized and the bushings need to be replaced in the rear end. I'll do that this weekend.

Thanks again for the input.

All has been said, but did you follow all the leads?
Try hot wire the coil with a feed straith from the battery + to eliminate faulty switches, connections or any malfunctions in the electric system of the car.
Crank and check coil output by plugging a sparkplug and give it a ferm ground. (don't hold cables by hand)
If that is ok then reconnect distributor and check one of the four distributor outputs the same way.
Preform these test quickly and disconct the power from coil right after for reasons also mentioned above.
Did you turn the dist. 180 degrees? Are you sure you got the firing order correct for the plug cables (1-3-4-2)

I had a hotspark in my PV and it worked very well.
Good luck!

Edit: Hope you got the hotspark wired corectly
hot-spark/Installing.pdf