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740 Service R12 or convert to R134-a

2manyturbos said:
That's what I just answered. You can get them from Volvo. They are ~ $5 each. The seals that come in those generic o-ring kits are not the right size for those two connections..
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So when I replaced the drier, I think I saw a larger black seal but it seemed to sit at the tapered part of the hardline, rather than slip over the threads. I obviously should?ve paid closer attention. The seal was not an o ring shape, but rather a tapered seal similar to the top waterpump seal. Have you ever encountered this?

Really kicking myself in the ass for not paying closer attention. Live and learn.
 
So in order to maintain a proper seal at the larger connections on the drier, do I need to get the parts from Volvo? Is it okay to assume that all of the smaller orings are acceptable?

Just called the dealer, they have those larger seals for $9 a piece (wow). I can grab a generic pack of orings for the rest of the system if those will be sufficient.
 
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Quick emergency question. Is this threaded portion supposed to move indepently of the piece it?s surrounding? I would think so. As is, I cannot turn the whole unit far enough to the correct position to create a seal, it just stops. Perhaps rust has fused it together?

Jg6TehB_d.jpg
 
1 month update. AC is still good, gets quite cold on the highway.

I have a concern. At idle, the ac sucks. The mechanical puller works well and the electric pusher comes on any time it idles with the AC on, so I believe there is sufficient airflow over the core.

What could cause poor performance at idle? The orifice tube is new and clean, and the system is charged with the 'correct' amount of ES12A. It takes a few minutes to get cold but once on the highway vent temps vary from 38F-45F. At idle,I've seen them as warm as 65F-70F, far too warm.

I've noticed that at a stop if I rev the engine to about 2250rpm, temps will drop to 60F or so.

So, she is satisfied with the AC, I am not. What can we do, parallel flow condenser, adjustable expansion valve rather than orifice tube, or perhaps more refrigerant?
 
Hey

I have a 960 and it cycled fast with no cold from the ECC, one 32oz can of A/C pro fixed all these problems. I have a 1993 940 with the ECC out, once that is repaired the A/C pro will probably fix it too, if it even needs Freon.
 
MichaelZLindsay said:
Hey

I have a 960 and it cycled fast with no cold from the ECC, one 32oz can of A/C pro fixed all these problems. I have a 1993 940 with the ECC out, once that is repaired the A/C pro will probably fix it too, if it even needs Freon.
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R134a is not Freon. I opted against using r134a refrigerant, though I?m sure it would work okay. It is less efficient than r12 or another refrigerant.
 
PromiseRing said:
1 month update. AC is still good, gets quite cold on the highway.

I have a concern. At idle, the ac sucks. The mechanical puller works well and the electric pusher comes on any time it idles with the AC on, so I believe there is sufficient airflow over the core.

What could cause poor performance at idle? The orifice tube is new and clean, and the system is charged with the 'correct' amount of ES12A. It takes a few minutes to get cold but once on the highway vent temps vary from 38F-45F. At idle,I've seen them as warm as 65F-70F, far too warm.

I've noticed that at a stop if I rev the engine to about 2250rpm, temps will drop to 60F or so.

So, she is satisfied with the AC, I am not. What can we do, parallel flow condenser, adjustable expansion valve rather than orifice tube, or perhaps more refrigerant?
Click to expand...

Add a little more you can alway take it out. The pressure charts are just a ballpark. Ive done some car that needed more and some that worked best on the lowend.
 
still blowing cold, just takes its dear sweet time getting there. Noticed that the bottom side of the compressor is covered in green refrigerant/oil and noticed a few drops on the ground. Guess is, this has been slowly leaking for a while and is low on ES12A.

If it leaks slow enough I'm not going to replace the compressor if I don't have to. Can I replace the compressor shaft seal on a 1990 740, and what else on the compessor can leak?

I'm half tempted to get a custom line made with a high side service port.
 
Save up over the winter for a new compressor and just get it over with in the spring.

Get a new line made up with the a service port on the discharge hose.

No reason to chase your tail, just do iiiiit.
 
KeizerBrickGuy said:
Save up over the winter for a new compressor and just get it over with in the spring.

Get a new line made up with the a service port on the discharge hose.

No reason to chase your tail, just do iiiiit.
Click to expand...

This vehicle had a new compressor installed in the mid 2000s, fully documented, Volvo dealer receipts. Part of me wonders if it?s actually an oring leak on the back of the compressor. I will have to check when I get the time.
 
Ok, but how long did it sit without a charge or being cycled? Because if it doesn't get used and have oil flowing around the seals, they will shrink and fail. Look into the excessive oil, but price it out just to CYA.
 
KeizerBrickGuy said:
Ok, but how long did it sit without a charge or being cycled? Because if it doesn't get used and have oil flowing around the seals, they will shrink and fail. Look into the excessive oil, but price it out just to CYA.
Click to expand...

Can't remember if it had any charge at all when I bought it, I think it did.

If the AC works as is, she's not going to want to replace the compressor entirely. However I'd much rather replace the compressor than to sling the black death that comes from a dead compressor! Wish I could get a high side reading to gauge the health of the compressor..

Besides, even these aftermarket compressors on RockAuto look like they're about $220+ :omg:
 
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