petebee
Member
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2012
- Location
- Back in NC again...
I just picked up this pretty clean 1991 240 wagon for my youngest son to drive:
I found it on CL in Charlotte listed originally for $850 (which caught my eye), but learned the seller had increased the selling price to $1100 as he was able to get it inspected. Figured I should check it out anyway, drove the car and offered him $960. It was his son's car for the last 4 years, and he didn't need it any more. The son had done some maintenance including brakes F/R, timing belt, accessory belts, shocks/struts (Sachs), crappy tires and water pump. Since the garage that inspected it needed to change the fuel filter to get it to run properly, I deduced that it would need fuel pumps since the old filter was pretty plugged up. The only other issue was a clunk in the driver's front end, and a shimmy in the steering wheel (which I fixed by tightening the driver inner tie rod which was about 1/2-in loose and then adjusting the toe...yikes!).
So I got the car home and ordered two fuel pumps and ball joints from Rockauto. I also found a folder with the car's maintenance history from the first two owners and 205K miles (it currently has about 270K). It was a well cared for car and was serviced at the same shop in Salisbury, NC up to the 205K mark.
Fuel pumps fixed the stalling problem, and I cleaned out the old fuel by dropping the tank as well. I put in a j/y fuel sender that cured the non functional gas gauge.
I then installed the ball joints, and afterward the front was still clunking. I figured it was the control arm bushings, ordered some poly from FCP, and went to install them. Upon removal of the driver side control arm, it was very apparent that both front and rear bushings had been replaced recently (plus both had Made in Sweden markings, so maybe decent parts). I then popped the tie rod end, and both inner and outer tie rods are tight and good. I checked the brake pad clips and they are in place, but it is missing one of the small clips that hold the brake pins in place, but all other parts are there. The strut bearing looks newer, and I assume it was replaced when the new struts went on. I bounced the car and the bushing didn't deflect much at all. I also snugged the gland nut on the strut, but it was pretty tight. The nut on the top of the strut mount also looks well-seated.
I am at a loss as to what could be causing the knock. It happens when you hit a pothole or manhole cover. Does the Volvo strut assembly contain a spacer or washer in the strut mount assembly (I can't recall)? I know that MK1 VWs have a spacer that if missing, will cause a horrible clunk in the front end.
Other than that it runs well. Paint is dead on hood and roof, but no rust. I picked up the Virgos with decent Goodyear tires (mfg'd in 2015) at pull-a-part for $35 each, and a set of tan cloth seats as well.
I found it on CL in Charlotte listed originally for $850 (which caught my eye), but learned the seller had increased the selling price to $1100 as he was able to get it inspected. Figured I should check it out anyway, drove the car and offered him $960. It was his son's car for the last 4 years, and he didn't need it any more. The son had done some maintenance including brakes F/R, timing belt, accessory belts, shocks/struts (Sachs), crappy tires and water pump. Since the garage that inspected it needed to change the fuel filter to get it to run properly, I deduced that it would need fuel pumps since the old filter was pretty plugged up. The only other issue was a clunk in the driver's front end, and a shimmy in the steering wheel (which I fixed by tightening the driver inner tie rod which was about 1/2-in loose and then adjusting the toe...yikes!).
So I got the car home and ordered two fuel pumps and ball joints from Rockauto. I also found a folder with the car's maintenance history from the first two owners and 205K miles (it currently has about 270K). It was a well cared for car and was serviced at the same shop in Salisbury, NC up to the 205K mark.
Fuel pumps fixed the stalling problem, and I cleaned out the old fuel by dropping the tank as well. I put in a j/y fuel sender that cured the non functional gas gauge.
I then installed the ball joints, and afterward the front was still clunking. I figured it was the control arm bushings, ordered some poly from FCP, and went to install them. Upon removal of the driver side control arm, it was very apparent that both front and rear bushings had been replaced recently (plus both had Made in Sweden markings, so maybe decent parts). I then popped the tie rod end, and both inner and outer tie rods are tight and good. I checked the brake pad clips and they are in place, but it is missing one of the small clips that hold the brake pins in place, but all other parts are there. The strut bearing looks newer, and I assume it was replaced when the new struts went on. I bounced the car and the bushing didn't deflect much at all. I also snugged the gland nut on the strut, but it was pretty tight. The nut on the top of the strut mount also looks well-seated.
I am at a loss as to what could be causing the knock. It happens when you hit a pothole or manhole cover. Does the Volvo strut assembly contain a spacer or washer in the strut mount assembly (I can't recall)? I know that MK1 VWs have a spacer that if missing, will cause a horrible clunk in the front end.
Other than that it runs well. Paint is dead on hood and roof, but no rust. I picked up the Virgos with decent Goodyear tires (mfg'd in 2015) at pull-a-part for $35 each, and a set of tan cloth seats as well.