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Old 07-20-2020, 12:53 PM   #76
IansPlatinum
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Originally Posted by volvowagoon View Post
OH ****!

I did not see that coming! If you really want to do the engine bay correctly, this is certainly the best way. What transmission are you considering?
It's a AW71 from roy (2manyturbos). Stronger than the AW70, and from cool weather PNW so less likely to be burnt up from heat.

I'll be installing a new filter, seals, TC seal, and kickdown cable on it.

Driveshaft is getting a new position #1 U-joint (it's partially seized), and new STS carrier bearing.

Engine is getting a new harness from Dave Barton, and STS stainless coolant pipe + silicone heater hoses, CPS, block paint, and possibly relocation of alternator with 940 accessory brackets (alternator on top driver side, compressor in normal spot, PS pump on passenger side). Also non-EGR manifolds

Also redoing AC system. Parallel flow condenser, new compressor (not sure if I'm going with nissens or sanden yet), custom hoses.

Playing with idea of stainless exhaust, but it's not an immediate need.

Beefed up #2 & #0 AWG battery harnesses.

Kinda want to convert to 940 coolant reservoir.

There's a LOT that I've been wanting to do, and now I have the time to do it. A bunch of the things would have been a PITA to do individually, but now with the engine & transmission out, I can do them all easily.

Also a big reason for this was definitely the transmission, and the fiancee won't let me drop the transmission from underneath the car. Mainly because I had a car fall on me when I was 16 I've learned a lot since then. Can't put a price on safety.

So the under-car activities I'm allowed to do are limited, and when I do them I triple check my vehicle support method
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Old 07-20-2020, 01:25 PM   #77
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Lots of excellent ideas here. I need to connect you with a local Dallasite who converted to R134 with the sanden compressor and reused his original condenser after stripping it with an industrial AC cleaner. His puts out some insanely cool AC on an 87 244 with 400K+ miles even in our 100 degree heat.

Always a good idea to pull it out from above, absolutely can't put a price on safety. Let me tell you bench pressing the AW70 down out of there was an absolute pain and I wouldn't wanna do that again.
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Old 07-20-2020, 01:34 PM   #78
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Lots of excellent ideas here. I need to connect you with a local Dallasite who converted to R134 with the sanden compressor and reused his original condenser after stripping it with an industrial AC cleaner. His puts out some insanely cool AC on an 87 244 with 400K+ miles even in our 100 degree heat.

Always a good idea to pull it out from above, absolutely can't put a price on safety. Let me tell you bench pressing the AW70 down out of there was an absolute pain and I wouldn't wanna do that again.
I'm thinking about continuing to use envirosafe (same as duracool) as the refrigerant.

I really enjoyed being able to just let the refrigerant vent (it's just propane/butane, very little environmental impact) without having to pay a tech to recover it. Makes working on the system easier if I ever have to crack it open again. Can't do that with 134a without giving the kangaroos skin cancer.

As much as I'd like to keep the OE Volvo fin & tube condenser , it just is no match from an engineering standpoint to the parallel flow. I redid the AC system in my 850, and now it's unbearably cold. It's pretty hilarious when its 100F outside and people ask me to turn down the AC.

And agreed with the AW70. It's already a pain working on the floor. Combined with haggling with a transmission, no bueno. Plus I would not have been able to do the other things I needed to do.
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Old 07-20-2020, 02:05 PM   #79
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Is envirosafe made to be compatible with R12 or R134 systems? What's the molecule size compared to traditional refrigerants? I completely agree on being able to vent it freely though, always a pain to have to involve a shop for these types of things. I've heard that the only real downside to the parallel flow condensers is that once they clog, they're pretty much ruined and unflushable due to the smaller passages.

The M46 wasn't terrible to press back in as it was much lighter, but man, what a pain to get it lined up with the trans tunnel in the way along with getting the input shaft lined up while rotating and then to thread in bolts.
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Old 07-20-2020, 02:55 PM   #80
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Is envirosafe made to be compatible with R12 or R134 systems? What's the molecule size compared to traditional refrigerants?
Yep, & much smaller. Propane/butane blend, about 75%/25%. I guess the main concern is flammability, but there's not a whole lot of mass in the system, and I've also read that even though r134a isn't flammable, aerosolized PAG oil is. PLUS, it's insane how hard it is sometimes to ignite a jet of propane. Try taking a propane torch and holding a small flame to it or getting spark near the stream. The propane puts out the fire unless you do a spark at the base of the jet. I also keep a halotron fire extinguisher in the car.

If I get 5-10 years out of my condenser, I'll be fine with that. My parallel flow condenser in my 850 is original, so 25 years old. Never been flushed. And the 850 is uncomfortably cold. No tinting on the windows either

The universal ones aren't that expensive either.

https://coldhose.com/parallel-flow-c...condenser.html
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Old 07-25-2020, 01:18 AM   #81
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Old 07-25-2020, 01:36 AM   #82
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Decided to drain the trans fluid from the old trans. Chocolate brown. I had done a 12 qt flush only a year ago. Definitely on its last legs, as this fluid should still be red.



Donor trans from roy looked nice on the inside. I installed a new filter and pan gasket. I was going to change the kickdown cable to a NOS one but it actually looks really good.



I also cleaned up the outside. Not sure if I want to spray it with some engine clear or not.

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Old 07-25-2020, 02:43 AM   #83
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Nice goin, you also do accumulator mod?
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Old 07-25-2020, 09:23 AM   #84
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Nice goin, you also do accumulator mod?
Nah, community said I shouldn't need to because I'm staying NA.
Plus I don't want to mess up the comfy ride
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Old 07-26-2020, 05:05 PM   #85
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AW71 is already plenty of beef for an NA. I wouldn't sacrifice the smooth shifts either. Nice work!
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Old 07-30-2020, 09:11 PM   #86
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EDIT:

I'm just gonna draw it out.



Green are components I'm keeping stock.

Last edited by IansPlatinum; 07-31-2020 at 12:23 AM..
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Old 08-11-2020, 02:17 AM   #87
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If you send me $20$14.99, I'll send you a how-to explaining how to make $20$14.99 from people on the internet.

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Old 08-14-2020, 12:24 PM   #88
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Working on some custom low-deflection bushings





And finally getting around to cleaning up that acid spill





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Old 08-14-2020, 12:29 PM   #89
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Did you buy ipd color matched 189 spray paint? I've used it before for small repair jobs like that and it works great. You can blend repair pretty well.
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Old 08-14-2020, 12:29 PM   #90
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Nice work! I'm jealous of the Texas metal. lol
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Old 08-14-2020, 12:41 PM   #91
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Did you buy ipd color matched 189 spray paint? I've used it before for small repair jobs like that and it works great. You can blend repair pretty well.
Yep. It looks pretty good. Still need to wet sand it and buff it a bit

I will say though, I bought 2 cans and the nozzles are very disappointing. The color is great but man those cans are rough to use. Lots of gargling and spatter. I thought I just got a defective one, but the 2nd one I opened up had the exact same issue. It's under the battery tray so it's not gonna be very visible. Still thankful that a company even makes color matched beater-volvo rattlecans, so I guess beggars can't be choosers

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Nice work! I'm jealous of the Texas metal. lol
I'm very thankful. My daily is from Pennsylvania had lots of little rust spots hiding. Once I got them where they could drain/dry, they have not gotten worse at all. Cars here never seem to advance past surface rust really...

Here's a good example. Bare steel out here just does this, it takes forever to get crumbly. The sun does a good job of baking out any trapped water.

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Old 08-14-2020, 12:49 PM   #92
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I will say though, I bought 2 cans and the nozzles are very disappointing. The color is great but man those cans are rough to use. Lots of gargling and spatter. I thought I just got a defective one, but the 2nd one I opened up had the exact same issue. It's under the battery tray so it's not gonna be very visible. Still thankful that a company even makes color matched beater-volvo rattlecans, so I guess beggars can't be choosers
I wonder if they changed suppliers that use a different nozzle. All the ones I bought work incredibly well for a spray can when compared to products like dupli-color.
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Old 08-14-2020, 12:57 PM   #93
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Nice work! I'm jealous of the Texas metal. lol
Usually 89-93 cars are pretty solid. You get that typical surface rust in the engine bay and random places. Anything before 89, it will have some sort of rust. Not from salt but usually for windshield leak(they leaked from the factory!) or heater valve leak. One of my 242s has the typical butt check rust(not too bad really), the other 242 has no butt cheek rust but is rotted along the rear tail light panel(which is common on 242s and 240s of that ear). Main point being, the rust we do get is manageable and not overwhelming.
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Old 08-18-2020, 01:15 AM   #94
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"5 New 195/75R14 Goodyear Wrangler AT tires, powdercoated OE 14" steelies" -- How do you like those tires as compared to regular passenger car tires? Do they make a lot of noise? Do you know if they do any better in snow than regular tires?
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Old 08-18-2020, 10:37 AM   #95
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"5 New 195/75R14 Goodyear Wrangler AT tires, powdercoated OE 14" steelies" -- How do you like those tires as compared to regular passenger car tires? Do they make a lot of noise? Do you know if they do any better in snow than regular tires?
They are not a whisper louder than the Michelin defenders they replaced. Extremely quiet for a AT tire.

They did great in 1ft+ of snow, up to ~1.5 ft of snow on untraveled trails. Did get stuck once though when I accidentally found the shoulder of the trail and got in the ditch.

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Old 09-06-2020, 10:48 PM   #96
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Been a little lazy on updates... engine's in (thanks for the help @aharres), took it on a test drive, all's good, just getting AC dialed in... tried weighing out the refrigerant but the hose that i used to add it in leaked so my measurements went out the window.

For my AC, I made two last minute decisions:
-r134a
-fixed orifice tube

I guess if I can't get a good temp at idle I'll try out either the envirosafe refrigerant or a variable
orifice tube.

Also trying to find a good place to mount my trans cooler... anyway, lots of updates coming soon, but we're back up & running at least

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