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Old 07-01-2020, 08:45 PM   #26
Estateman
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Steel diff covers use a gasket. It's recommend to use a Volvo gasket. Aluminum cover uses a sealant. I've personally used the green rtv and it works well. No leaks to report.
Which years did the steel cover come on? I ordered a rubber looking diff gasket genuine Volvo.
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Old 07-01-2020, 09:32 PM   #27
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Which years did the steel cover come on? I ordered a rubber looking diff gasket genuine Volvo.
Everything up to 91 for 240 uses a steel cover. 92-93 240s are the only years that had the aluminum cover.
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Old 07-09-2020, 11:04 AM   #28
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Old 07-13-2020, 02:21 PM   #29
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I got a thing. i want to make the exhaust less obnoxious


the volvo assumed shadetree hackery position


so there is no way to just clamp on the muffler without it hitting something on my current exhaust. I ended up just pulling the whole back side of the exhaust to get some better measurements. screw working on wet gravel.


I want to put it here, where the original resonator should have went. but it will definately needs to be welded and the hangers replaced. No way the clamps would seal on the bends.


I put it on the end just to see what it'd sound like. it is definately better but i bet it'll sound better/quieter in the res spot.

Sorry for no rev video. didn't want to piss off my neighbors!
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Old 07-13-2020, 06:13 PM   #30
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Sorry for no rev video. didn't want to piss off my neighbors!


Just drive it like that!

But in all seriousness, that still sounds too loud even with the resonator. I'd be willing to bet your muffler is wasted. I didn't realize they could degrade internally until I took my old one off and looked inside. They have steel baffles inside that corrode away and eventually stop producing the acoustic effects that they were engineered to produce.

My car has no resonator and a new stock muffler. It is quieter than what I heard on your video... the only time I notice my car's exhaust it on the highway, when I hit the resonance around 2.5-2.7K RPM. Even then, it's not that loud, just could be quieter, ya know?
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Old 07-13-2020, 10:09 PM   #31
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But in all seriousness, that still sounds too loud even with the resonator. I'd be willing to bet your muffler is wasted. I didn't realize they could degrade internally until I took my old one off and looked inside. They have steel baffles inside that corrode away and eventually stop producing the acoustic effects that they were engineered to produce.

My car has no resonator and a new stock muffler. It is quieter than what I heard on your video... the only time I notice my car's exhaust it on the highway, when I hit the resonance around 2.5-2.7K RPM. Even then, it's not that loud, just could be quieter, ya know?
Itís not the stock muffler, itís a mangaflow 18x6x6 2.5Ē straight thru glass pack haha. nothing else in the exhaust. It doesnít sound horrible but it hits maximum fart cannon like you mention from 2800-3100 rpm. Sounded nice when a turbo was muffling the tractor noise but now that itís NA and the glass pack is getting worn out itís pretty obnoxious!!
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Old 08-07-2020, 02:40 PM   #32
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I got some new tires. Continental Extremecontact DWS06 high berformance all season. I'm going to try to break them in before going for some skids but braking feels 8.7 times better than the bald 14" winters I was using before. I did not realize how low I set the car as the old wheels were so much smaller. Before getting a real alignment I may bring it back up just a little.
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Old 08-09-2020, 08:07 PM   #33
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Sealed that rear differential yet?

If not:

https://www.quadratec.com/products/52416_100.htm

I used them on mostly 4wds... but it's for a Dana 30 and doesn't care what cover you have.
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Old 08-11-2020, 09:52 AM   #34
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Sealed that rear differential yet?

If not:

https://www.quadratec.com/products/52416_100.htm

I used them on mostly 4wds... but it's for a Dana 30 and doesn't care what cover you have.
I have seen and thought about that gasket. What worries me is the difference in distance from the VR sensor in the diff to the internal tone ring with a thicker gasket like that installed. When I first pulled the cover to do the locker, it was a rtv chemical gasket only, no paper.

I ordered a paper gasket a couple weeks ago and am going to try that out first. I was also thinking about getting a large piece of sandpaper and a flat surface to re-finish the sealing surface of the cover.

I got a stock panhard par and put new poly bushings into it, so I will be pulling the cover again while the bar goes in in the coming weeks.

Last edited by esmth; 08-17-2020 at 05:44 PM..
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Old 08-17-2020, 05:38 PM   #35
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Old 08-17-2020, 05:59 PM   #36
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Old 08-17-2020, 07:00 PM   #37
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How far does it go? Can we get the idle down to 0db?
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Old 08-18-2020, 10:42 AM   #38
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How far does it go? Can we get the idle down to 0db?
[IMG]https://s1.cdn.autoevolution.com/images/news/**********-lawn-mower-with-huge-muffler-shows-how-ricers-fail-88589_1.jpg[/IMG]

edit, LOL ********** is censored hahahah

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Old 08-24-2020, 03:19 PM   #39
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Replacing the panhard bar to stock with poly and this aluminum bushing siezed to the mount. It was hell to get loose. Took a trusty hack saw. Stock panhard with poly is now installed, but got no pictures of that.



While I was in there, I wanted to attempt to re seal the diff again. The last time I went overboard with the green RTV and the sucker was GLUED to the housing. I bent it pretty bad trying to pry it off. Ended up using a vicegrips and sandpaper to get it flat again.


While fixing the cover I found out why it kept leaking... there are 3 tiny pinholes. I have no idea why I didn't notice them before. Cover was never even that rusty.
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Old 08-25-2020, 06:48 PM   #40
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Two days after the diff re-seal (and rtv applied to the pinholes) without a new drip on my superfund site of a parking spot!

I didn't end up using the paper gasket I ordered, though I obtained an aluminum cover for when it inevitably starts leaking again
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Old 09-13-2020, 06:56 PM   #41
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Needed to take care of the crank housing paper gasket leak that has been bugging me for more than a year. Look at that grit build up


Removed and cleaned up


cleanest part of the car by far


glamor shot


I also replaced both the cam seals and the valve cover gasket. Hopefully all of the leaks are taken care of for now
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Old 09-13-2020, 08:21 PM   #42
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Nothing is more satisfying than fixing leaks and replacing gaskets.
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Will you do $14.99 shipped?
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please no more prying things with screwdrivers and bashing things with hammers!
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Old 09-17-2020, 01:45 PM   #43
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Nothing is more satisfying than fixing leaks and replacing gaskets.
unfortunately it is still leaking from somewhere. Albeit much slowly than it was before. Maybe one half drop hangs off the bottom bellhousing bolt after every drive. It isn't enough to make it to the pavement though, at least. It might be a RMS but I replaced that with a volvo seal when I did the clutch/flywheel job 18 or 20 months ago.
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Old 09-17-2020, 02:03 PM   #44
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The past few days I have been noticing a rare-but-getting-more-common hiccup that the engine would do when hot and driving around. I didn't notice, but the dash lights were flickering dimly when it hiccupped. I ignored it like usual so it came back to bite me last night. At 1am, the dash lit up like what happens when the alt/regulator fails. I ended up making it home though, on battery power which dipped below 11.5v. I went to bed and delt with it this morning.

At first, I noticed the ground strap from alternator case to the block was not tightened down, at all. It was my fault, I must have forgotten to tighten the bolt when I did the front crank housing seals. I thought that was it so I started driving to work. 13.7v was at the cigarette lighter socket. Half way to work, it dropped back down to 11.7v so I turned around. Revving the engine did not help and all the dash lights lit up again. I pulled the regulator and saw this:


I had installed this regulator as a "good used" one from my spare alternator ~2 months or so ago and it had decent length on the brushes so the commutator on the alt must be sloppy and eating the brushes.

Could the loose ground have any effect on this? Could that cause the brushes to get chewed out so fast?


A bought the dave adjustable regulator a bit back to install but never got around to it. It went in now.


13.75v and it got me to work with no voltage drops. fug.
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Old Yesterday, 08:36 AM   #45
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I have seen and thought about that gasket. What worries me is the difference in distance from the VR sensor in the diff to the internal tone ring with a thicker gasket like that installed. When I first pulled the cover to do the locker, it was a rtv chemical gasket only, no paper.

I ordered a paper gasket a couple weeks ago and am going to try that out first. I was also thinking about getting a large piece of sandpaper and a flat surface to re-finish the sealing surface of the cover.

I got a stock panhard par and put new poly bushings into it, so I will be pulling the cover again while the bar goes in in the coming weeks.
It won't effect the VR sensor.

Milling the mating surfaces is a great idea, too. I do that every time.
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