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Old 04-24-2012, 06:55 PM   #76
crandandall
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Very cool. You took the idea I had for my 245 to the extreme, but I love it. Any clue what gas mileage you see with it in its current state? Does it drive/track decent on the highway?
I was getting ~18mpg when it was n/a, that was to and from work 30 miles on two lane canyon roads. I hope it gets a bit better now that it's boosted since I won't have to have my foot to the floor with the thing revving to the moon all the time. It drives pretty well on the highway, it doglegs down the road a bit because I haven't changed the length of the panhard bar, but I cant see that from the driver's seat.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:27 AM   #77
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Finally posting some pics of the finished turbo setup, exhaust, torque rods, etc. Gotta keep the thread from being lost in the depths.

The turbo setup, it's apparently a 13T with an 18T compressor wheel and the comp housing machined to fit. Got it for $100, so I'm not complaining. I used an actuator from a Saab 9-3, had to whip up a simple bracket the drill and tap two holes on the tag pad of the compressor housing. Worked out pretty well I think. You can also see the v-banded turbine housing and downpipe back there. Stove bright "charcoal" on the manifold and turbine housing.



Drain line setup, I used a pre made -8an hose and drain flange from ebay. For the return line fitting, I used a tapered drift punch to slowly punched a hole into the pan then tapped it to 3/8" npt. 3/8npt to -8an fitting and we're in business. No, the fitting in the pan isn't leaking, the valve cover gasket was and oil ran down the whole side of the motor making a pretty big mess as you'll see in the upcoming exhaust pics.



Ebay intercooler that I got second hand for cheap. 740 cold side pipes cut up to make fit. AMM on the cold side.



Hot side, you can see the K&N filter down there, 740 cold side pipes have all the right bends and the IAC fitting which I used for my catch can. I like the look of the later style square coolant tank, so that's what I used.

[/img]http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/544991_401010433262808_100000615636342_1222273_178 6322599_n.jpg[img]

Another shot, showing the intercooler/radiator setup. Using a 940 fan with the factory relay. Low speed is triggered by an adjustable switch and the high speed is triggered by the radiator switch. I need to redo the wiring on it because looking at it makes me angry. Also note that the A/C system is intact and functional.



Just showing the filter stuffed down there next to the washer bottle.



Exhaust from the old car, cut, rewelded, and wire wheeled.



Exhaust after a coat of Stove Bright "Pewter"



Exhaust fitment, I got it tucked up there pretty tight with a v-band in the middle to make installation/removal a bit easier. Might be able to see the sensor for the AEM wideband up there next to the transmission.



6" body Magnaflow, not too loud, sounds pretty ok in my opinion. You can also see the 3/4" heim torque rods.



Over the axle, took the springs out and jacked the axle up to the bump stops to make sure there was clearance, this thing does get airborne from time to time.



Exit behind the right rear wheel.



Heim joint torque rods.



Bought chippable boxes from jerd with a couple different EZK chips. I already had one of the BuchkaSpark boards, so I got crackin on that project. I used a Molex panel mount connector to get the connections for the coil pack and launch control out of the EZK box.







So that's where the project stands now, I'm still only running 5-6psi. I had to send my boost gauge to AEM because it was reading 2 in/hg without the engine running. I have a Vibrant MBC i'll be using to make some adjustments when that comes back. It's running pretty well, I abused the **** out of it at the Davis autocross, it'll get sideways on the asphalt without too much effort which surprised me. The Spec stg.3 clutch is handling the abuse like a champ. All in all, not too bad for a +t at 265k.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:36 AM   #78
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This thing is ****ing sick.

Cant wait to ride in it at ipd.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:44 AM   #79
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This car is cool, I like this car.
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Old 05-09-2012, 02:51 AM   #80
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i like where this is going. can't wait to see it in 1.5 weeks!
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Old 05-10-2012, 12:18 PM   #81
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This car rules. What did you do to make the torque rods?
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:18 AM   #82
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Torque rods are made from DOM tube, weld bungs, heims, and high misalignment spacers all sourced from QS Components. I went with the kevlar lined chromoly heims that were a whopping $21 each. The tube sections ended up being cut at 10" to make the whole rods the same length as the stockers.

On another note, got the thing running on waste spark tonight, pics and maybe video when I get the launch control wired up and working.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:37 AM   #83
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Making it to rsi tonight?
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:44 AM   #84
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Nope, got hit by a bunch of stuff lately, so I'm not gonna be able to make it up for the meet this year either, super bummed, but such is life. I'm going to try to make it up some time during the summer for a long weekend of hooliganism though.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:10 AM   #85
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I'm going to try to make it up some time during the summer for a long weekend of hooliganism though.
Nice.
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Old 07-02-2012, 03:39 AM   #86
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Update this Dan!
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Old 07-06-2012, 02:10 AM   #87
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Progress? Whats broken?
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Old 07-07-2012, 01:48 AM   #88
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awesome thread!
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:52 AM   #89
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Nothing's broken anymore, had a bit of a mishap that led ti the coilovers finally bei.g built and installed. New tires too, Cooper Discoverer ATR's. I'll try to get an update with some pics posted some time this weekend.
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Old 07-07-2012, 12:31 PM   #90
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Oh please do!

Huge difference with the coilovers? And what size tire?

Edit: and what did you do that caused you to need new tires and suspension lol
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Old 07-07-2012, 12:55 PM   #91
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Amazing difference with the coilovers, I actually have some droop now. Tires are the same size 235/75/15. I was blasting up my normal gravel back road on the way home, got the rear end into a ditch which pulled the left front over, up the 3 foot embankment and into a stump. One control arm, inner and outer tie rod, wheel, tire, bumper and new struts is all it took to get it back in action . Going commando up front until I get a tube bumper built.

On a side note, my ignition ECU is toast due to water intrusion during the torrential downpours we had a month or so ago. Had the waste spark running tits for a couple weeks, stupid rust holes
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:03 PM   #92
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Oh man that really sucks!
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:48 PM   #93
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Finally got out and took some pics today.

Here's a couple of the front struts before they were installed. Springs are 14" 300lb with coleman 8" sleeves and adjusters, inserts are Feal Suspension 220mm travel 40mm diameter single adjustable monotubes, the tubes have been extended 3" to achieve the desired ride height.




What they look like in their home.



Tire clearance.



Ride height



Full droop for the brotruck lulz



Ride height



Droop



The original Goodyear Wrangler's that I had were hammered and they weren't the best tire in the world anyway, I got these Cooper's for a pretty good deal. I've installed them on quite a few customer's vehicles at work with good results so I figured I'd give them a shot. I like them because they're nice and square, could be a bit wider, but they don't have a 245 or 255 width tire that would fit.





So that's how it sits as of today. I'm waiting on some metric to -an fittings in the mail so that I can install an rx7 oil cooler this coming weekend. I'm planning on switching to 12" 250 or 275 front springs on top of some Eibach progressive tender springs. The 300's are a bit stiff for my taste, but I had them already.
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Old 07-09-2012, 11:23 PM   #94
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With that much ride height you could make some extra long control arms for extra suspension travel.
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:36 AM   #95
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Super legit! Very nice man.
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Old 07-10-2012, 01:18 AM   #96
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With that much ride height you could make some extra long control arms for extra suspension travel.
I think the control arms are about as long as they can be already at 1.5" over stock. The balljoint and tie rod end articulation is maxed out at full droop. I have an idea for some tubular arms that use uniballs in place of the stock balljoints for more articulation. I'll probably go with heim joints in place of the tie rod ends.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:04 AM   #97
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Have you hooked up the two-step/flat shift?
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:10 AM   #98
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Have you hooked up the two-step/flat shift?
Yep, had it all up and running, but my ignition ECU got ruined by water intrusion. I used a ford EDIS coil with the 960 igniter that you suggested. I'm on the lookout for another chippable ecu so that I can get it all running again. The two step/flatshift/launch control seemed to work pretty well. I could build ~3psi in neutral with it set at 3500rpm. It could cut the revs a bit harder between shifts IMO, but all in all it worked like it should. I never launched the car really hard using it because my trailing arm bushings are pretty bad.
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Old 07-10-2012, 11:14 AM   #99
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Cool. Fwiw, you can transplant the little board with the chippable socket to any EZK.

My board turns spark off completely. There's no way to cut harder than that.
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:00 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by Karl Buchka View Post
Cool. Fwiw, you can transplant the little board with the chippable socket to any EZK.

My board turns spark off completely. There's no way to cut harder than that.
Looks like I have some more soldering to do....

It just seemed like it took a while for the engine to wind down when the clutch switch was engaged, I had the rev limit set at 3500 and was shifting around 5500. I've never messed around with any of this stuff before so I don't really know how it's supposed to act. I mainly wanted the waste spark benefits. It ran a whole lot smoother without any popping out of the tailpipe when it was running waste spark, so that made me happy.
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