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Old 07-10-2012, 12:06 PM   #101
Harlard
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Originally Posted by crandandall View Post
I think the control arms are about as long as they can be already at 1.5" over stock. The balljoint and tie rod end articulation is maxed out at full droop. I have an idea for some tubular arms that use uniballs in place of the stock balljoints for more articulation. I'll probably go with heim joints in place of the tie rod ends.
Sexy. It looks like there is enough space under there to make mounts below and inwards. Looking forward to ride in it someday!
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:25 PM   #102
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Sexy. It looks like there is enough space under there to make mounts below and inwards. Looking forward to ride in it someday!
The space is there, but if I did that I'd have to figure out some sort of shorter steering rack or I'd run into bump steer issues. Tie rod end pivots need to be on the same arc as the control arm pivots.
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:33 PM   #103
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The space is there, but if I did that I'd have to figure out some sort of shorter steering rack or I'd run into bump steer issues. Tie rod end pivots need to be on the same arc as the control arm pivots.
True, didn't think of that...so crossmember spacers? Redneck it up yo
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Old 07-10-2012, 12:46 PM   #104
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True, didn't think of that...so crossmember spacers? Redneck it up yo
It's not a Subaru hahaha. I think some 1" or 3/4" uniballs with misalignment spacers will suffice, something like 64 degrees of articulation.
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:53 AM   #105
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how is the ride in bumpy terrain? are you running sway bars? This is so sick!!!!
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:56 PM   #106
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I haven't beat on it too much offroad since I did the coilovers because I've been battling some cooling system issues, think I need to replace the radiator. Night and day difference on the street though. I'm running the stock sway bars.
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:18 PM   #107
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[/QUOTE]I'm planning on switching to 12" 250 or 275 front springs on top of some Eibach progressive tender springs. The 300's are a bit stiff for my taste, but I had them already.[/QUOTE]

i'm running the 12 inch 250# barrel springs off ebay because i noticed that over time my old springs wore away the threaded sleeves of my coilovers. I like them very much But i was wondering most about those struts. Did you custom order them? Valving ect? collapsed and extended length? also i noticed you had the of the lower spring perch adjusted differently before you put them on the car and after. What kind of preload are you putting on those springs? I'm currently trying to dial in a similar setup on my car right now and my off the shelf billy hds suck with these springs.

Last edited by kendog11; 07-24-2012 at 08:19 PM.. Reason: QUOTE WRONG
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Old 07-25-2012, 06:01 PM   #108
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i'm running the 12 inch 250# barrel springs off ebay because i noticed that over time my old springs wore away the threaded sleeves of my coilovers. I like them very much But i was wondering most about those struts. Did you custom order them? Valving ect? collapsed and extended length? also i noticed you had the of the lower spring perch adjusted differently before you put them on the car and after. What kind of preload are you putting on those springs? I'm currently trying to dial in a similar setup on my car right now and my off the shelf billy hds suck with these springs.
I'm actually having the same problem with the springs rubbing the sleeves. The struts are custom ordered from Feal Suspension. They're an insert that they build for Subaru WRX's. These are typically used in the rear of a WRX and have 220mm of travel, I forget the extended and collapsed lengths. They are 40mm monotube, single adjustable (adjust comp and rebound at the same time), and have 40 settings. I called Feal and had them valve a set of rear inserts to their front valving since the front corner weight and suspension geometry is pretty close to a WRX. Right now I have them 17 clicks in because when I had them at 20 (the middle) it seemed a bit over dampened. I have zero preload on the springs right now, the springs actually come off the seats about an inch at full droop. With the adjusters where they are now, I have about 5" of droop from ride height.
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Old 08-24-2012, 04:03 PM   #109
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Updates Sir?
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Old 08-25-2012, 03:08 PM   #110
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Hmm, updates. I installed an rx-7 oil cooler the other day. Blew 2nd gear out of the transmission last night. I'll have to get some pics up here at some point, I'm a slacker....
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:58 AM   #111
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****ing m47s...
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:47 PM   #112
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****ing m47s...
Hahaha, tell me about it. I had to pay 200 god damn dollars for another one too. To be honest, it lasted longer than it should have, I have not been nice to it at all.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:52 PM   #113
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To be honest, it lasted longer than it should have, I have not been nice to it at all.
I was shocked it put up with what it did at WM. You were not exactly trying to make it live.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:41 PM   #114
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With all the M47s you have blown up you could have been running a Getrag by now
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:41 PM   #115
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I'm actually having the same problem with the springs rubbing the sleeves.
In the rally car, we split some of that black PVC pipe (think it's sch 40, but don't recall) and slipped it in between the spring and the coil over neck where the threads are. Worked great and the car sees a ton of up and down suspension travel. Just cut one vertical slit the length of the pipe (making it a C) and you've got a variable-sized spacer.
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:12 PM   #116
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I was shocked it put up with what it did at WM. You were not exactly trying to make it live.
That was before the +T
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Old 08-31-2012, 03:13 PM   #117
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With all the M47s you have blown up you could have been running a Getrag by now
Meh, Getrags blow up in bimmers more than you'd think, they're pretty crappy, especially when they're abused. Might have a line on a TKO still, that should handle some hooliganism.
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:39 AM   #118
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Snapped some pics of the oil cooler setup. Not necessarily the most ideal placement, but there isn't really any really great place to keep it out of harm's way. Tube bumper and skidplate are in the works. I was going to swap to a 100amp Denso alt, but it's too big to fit in there with the oil filter where it is. I'll have to go to a remote mount filter when that time comes.







This one shows the volvo cooler adapter/thermostat and some of the line routing. I'm planning on using some sort of heat sleeve around the lines.



More line routing, I used summit brand push lock hose and fittings because I got it all for cheap from Homer. The brackets are severely overbuilt because all I had laying around was 3/16 plate.


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Old 11-19-2012, 09:13 PM   #119
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Welp, here's the end of another one of my project threads.

This is what a 245 looks like after it's rolled down this:













I'm guessing 3.5 or 4.5 complete revolutions until it hit those small trees in the center of the first pic, upside down. Yet another one of my cars destroyed, not by me. Watch for this one in the junkyard boys, there's some good stuff bolted to it.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:34 PM   #120
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i can has 19t and downpipe?
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:40 PM   #121
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Not a 19t, but you can have whatever you want if you come down and get it off the car once it goes to pick n pull. I don't have the $1300 or so it's gonna cost to get it out of hock.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:52 PM   #122
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What do you mean, "out of Hock"!

Do all five doors open and close?
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:32 PM   #123
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What do you mean, "out of Hock"!

Do all five doors open and close?
Recovery and storage is around $1300, I'll have to come up with that to get it out of the tow yard. Apparently it was pretty fun getting it out.

All five doors open and close, only broken windows are the big side windows.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:08 PM   #124
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Shiiiiiiiit. Story?
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:15 AM   #125
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This car can't go bye bye
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