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Old 05-12-2016, 07:09 PM   #26
Trevor57
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This is going to be a very tough project to complete with ****ty tools. I wish you the best of luck.
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Old 05-15-2016, 12:07 PM   #27
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 05-15-2016, 12:33 PM   #28
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Take a $650 car in decent shape, cut it up in pieces, spend maybe $3000-$5000 to put it back together to then drift/wreck it. Great plan. May be better to keep cutting and sell patch panels on here and start with another car. This time don't cut it up.
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Old 05-15-2016, 03:18 PM   #29
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Everyone is bogus as hell automatically jumping to him crushing it. Lol

Dont understand why you are going with a S chassis crossmember if you can just buy ford v8 mounts from members here, don't remember who, or make them yourself.

Also the coilover conversion doesn't make much sense either, I don't personally own kaplhenke coilovers but they are raved over and are the same price as any worthwhile coilover for an s13/14.
Actually cheaper if you send your core in and stick with your stock struts. Bouncy but if you're on a budget it will work. $740 IIRC, not bad imo.

If by angle you mean while turning, not sure if the s12 and 13 share a rack but my 945 has better turning radius than my s12. The 945 also feels a lot more confident in the corners than the 12, my wagon is on chopped springs(bumpstops up front), stock struts and iPd sways.

That's just 0.02 so take it with a grain of salt and good luck with your build.
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Old 05-15-2016, 04:11 PM   #30
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I support you. Do whatever the hell you want, just do it to the absolute best of your abilities. Take the time to make sure the details are right and then drive the hell out of it.
Marc "manfoot" Huxley built a similar setup using s chasis suspension for similar reasons: http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/12/...ing-to-infamy/

Last edited by Mr.bigTurboMan; 05-15-2016 at 04:23 PM..
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Old 05-18-2016, 09:52 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.bigTurboMan View Post
I support you. Do whatever the hell you want, just do it to the absolute best of your abilities. Take the time to make sure the details are right and then drive the hell out of it.
Marc "manfoot" Huxley built a similar setup using s chasis suspension for similar reasons: http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/12/...ing-to-infamy/
Great idea, this highschool kid in his friend's dad's dirt floor garage with a Harbor Freight flux MIG will totally achieve what a legitimate speed shop owner in England can do!

And that guy didn't even have the 'abilities' to cut the rear frame rails, our boy here will for sure prove the haters wrong!
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Old 05-18-2016, 10:17 PM   #32
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lol
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Old 05-18-2016, 10:46 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84.242 View Post
Great idea, this highschool kid in his friend's dad's dirt floor garage with a Harbor Freight flux MIG will totally achieve what a legitimate speed shop owner in England can do!

And that guy didn't even have the 'abilities' to cut the rear frame rails, our boy here will for sure prove the haters wrong!
What are you so angry about?
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Old 05-19-2016, 01:36 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 84.242 View Post
Great idea, this highschool kid in his friend's dad's dirt floor garage with a Harbor Freight flux MIG will totally achieve what a legitimate speed shop owner in England can do!

And that guy didn't even have the 'abilities' to cut the rear frame rails, our boy here will for sure prove the haters wrong!
Maybe the car will run again, maybe it will meet the crusher.
Maybe it will do some sweet drifts first.

You don't learn this stuff by trolling tbricks, you learn by
getting your hands dirty in your friend's dad's dirt-floor
garage.

I left behind a trail of broken motorcycle parts and grease
stains in my youth, and I expect that speed shop owner in England
had a similar history.
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:00 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sim View Post
Maybe the car will run again, maybe it will meet the crusher.
Maybe it will do some sweet drifts first.

You don't learn this stuff by trolling tbricks, you learn by
getting your hands dirty in your friend's dad's dirt-floor
garage.

I left behind a trail of broken motorcycle parts and grease
stains in my youth, and I expect that speed shop owner in England
had a similar history.
This isn't learning. He had a running driving vehicle that could already drift with a bit of work, and hacked it up because...?

That speed shop owner never left a 'trail' of broken parts, I'd imagine he was much more organized than that, and didn't create his S13 swapped 240 Vo until, you know, he owned a speed shop.

OP is trying to jump straight to step RACECAR with no tools or prior experience or apparently anyone who can help him.

He's cut up the frame on a unibody car with NO plan for what comes next, because hey those are usually the next pictures SpeedHunters posts on Instagram after they buy a car!

You're all cheering him on and calling anyone who suggests he pump the brakes a bit a hater.

It's getting crushed not because LOLUMADBRO #haterade, it's getting crushed because thats the only place this build can now go. He needs a new car, that runs and drives, and doesn't have a salvage title.
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:13 PM   #36
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5 star thread
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Old 05-21-2016, 08:22 PM   #37
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Why don't more of all y'all do this:


Nice simple towers and then you can do such nice coilover kits correctly.
Why not?
40 year old design..
Am confuse.
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Old 05-22-2016, 12:35 AM   #38
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Cut the guy some slack. There are worse things a 16 year could occupy his time with. Help him make this a good experience.
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Old 01-10-2017, 09:40 PM   #39
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Alright so i havent posted on this thread in a while, had a huge pause in the build, between working a crappy job with little pay and now im trying to go back to school its gonna be even longer for this thing to truly get worked on. But i do have someone willing to help out, my brother-in-law, which has plenty enough experience (built b5 s4 w/750whp, 14' coyote 600whp on a hot humid day), and he knows a welder so if i need things made ill tack weld it with the H.F. welder and he'll finish it up.. So with that help it should definitely start moving in the right direction. I picked up a e46 front crossmember at a jy to see if it would be a close fit, with modifications it could work.

Volvo left. E46 right.
L: 36 1/4in. L: 34 3/4in
Bolt Gap: 89.49mm/3.5235in Bolt Gap: 151.62mm/5.9690in (used ****ty digital caliper)


The engine i got was the 302 which was pulled from an explorer that got t-boned.

I think it had 70k miles but cant remember (i have horrible memory). Anyway, i didnt quite plan on it but i threw it on a stand to take the heads off, and ended up tearing it down to the bare block, dumb move i know but im thinking of having it bored 0.03, for a 306 but cant decide to stay 306 or turn it to a 331, with this being said i still plan to keep it pretty low powered. My goal is, give or take 300whp. I need to send the block to a machine shop to get it cleaned manly but bored, and honed also. The heads look fine, i took a wire brush to them and they look fine enough to me.


Before

After



Btw i picked up a truck, 87 ford 150 with i6 300, 4 speed 4x4.

Its nice besides something keeps happening to it every week it seems like, (I know im rambling on, but this is all for me for the most part, since half the people i talk to about this build is doubtful of it, who cares tho). So again there has been alot of delay of this build, but its still going just is gonna take a while until i can get more time and money. I have to move it from my buddys garage so i got a carport with a heater for these cold days. I havent got it here since i need to find a trailer. But hopefully within a week or so i can get it here.

Well thats it, again, for now.
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240's are front wheel drive you can't drift them?
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Old 01-12-2017, 07:37 PM   #40
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My wife's box is disappoint.
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:55 PM   #41
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A stock 5.slow is more than enough to drift with. The 5.slow in the 244 I have just bit the dust after a season of drifting with blown head gaskets to start with. If you want more power, toss on some cheap aluminum heads (bump the compression while you're at it), and toss in a fun camshaft.
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Old 01-12-2017, 11:01 PM   #42
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My wife's box is disappoint.
Don't let her read that, you will die.
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Old 01-12-2017, 11:56 PM   #43
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Good lord, He is a 16 year old kid trying something. Working his ass off on an old car, not sitting in front of a PC or phone, and learning something while doing so.

Kid, ignore the buttheads that give you a hard time. 99% of the people here are good folks and will gladly help you, the others have nothing better to do than scrutinize in a non helpful way. I found that out real quick here, but the 99% have made my project much easier with their information and suggestions.

So stay on your project and keep asking questions. The amount of knowledge in the post and the members here is staggering when it comes to old Volvos.
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:02 AM   #44
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So i got the volvo to my house and my handy dandy dolly i made worked, besides the tow truck driver didnt lay the bed to the ground which caused the front two caster wheels fall off but i fixed them the next day. i then cut the radiator support to slide the motor in the engine bay to save some space, plus kinda see what im working with.



Well once i got it in i decided to deal with the sound deadening crap, read up dry ice works but didnt want to spend the money on it so i used a torch which i figured it would be nasty and make it sticky but actually came up really easy, spent about an hour with a hammer and chisel and took off less than quarter of it off on the tunnel but with the torch spent a good 15 minutes and got ALL of the sound deadening in the whole car. So note to self (or anyone else in which this could help): If you need to get off sound deadening, use a torch if dry ice isnt easy to come by. But from scrapping all that off i took off a full ten pounds on the dot.

And heres the final result.


I started to lighten the doors, so i took the windows out and cut off the "skeleton" (what im going to call it) and let me tell you, they are a **** ton lighter. To be exact, i actually cut the weight in half in each door, the rears weighed 50 pounds cut them down to 25, the front doors were 60 pounds and cut those to 30 pounds so a total of 110 pounds of the doors alone. 17 Pounds were from the rubber seals. Well heres a photo of the before and close to finish, youll notice the crash bar is still in the door but i actually took them all off since i plan on having the rollcage go into the door, if that make sense. Sorta like a nascar cage.


I also swiss cheesed the bumper, and got a front lip off of a newer 240 i found at the junkyard. And i like it ALOT. Another thing is that when i was at the junkyard i got my whole front end from a few e46s, i already had the crossmember, so i got the knuckles, crontrol arms, a spare knuckle (to practice cutting and welding them), and a passenger side strut.


Like i had mentioned on my last update i am short on money at the moment, but thank god for tax returns. So im getting a whopping $700, wooo, not really but its something. And here is where i think i might need some help. Deciding what i should do with that money, my options are to either get coilovers, finish my body work completely (as in finish the rear strut towers, and tunnel), build the motor, or what my brother-in-law is suggesting, which is to get the transmission so that i can line up the motor/tranny. But heres my thoughts, to finish the body work, so i can then have a rolling shell again, but if i do that ill need the coilovers, but if i only buy those, i wont have money to get anything else, and if i get the tranny (which i can find one for like 200 bucks) and then spend rest on body work.. idk im in a rut right now.. But well see when i get it to decide what ill do, unless someone is willing to give some helpful advice.
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:15 AM   #45
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Why the BMW crossmember? Making motor mounts to fit the 302 to the stock Volvo mounts is easy peasy.
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Old 02-09-2017, 12:30 PM   #46
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Why the BMW crossmember? Making motor mounts to fit the 302 to the stock Volvo mounts is easy peasy.
Because i wanted to run true coilovers all around and no one makes true rear coilovers since theres no tower. So i chose BMW since there are alot more options when it comes to suspension parts. Plus i got all those for free at my junkyard, so worse case scenario is i wasted a day there.
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Old 02-09-2017, 02:51 PM   #47
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What do you mean by "true coilovers"?
And that's a front cross member and you're talking about rear coilovers? So confused.
And Ben makes a coilover setup for the rear (740 I think). You can also make your own. Easy peasy with the tools you have.
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:25 PM   #48
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What do you mean by "true coilovers"?
And that's a front cross member and you're talking about rear coilovers? So confused.
And Ben makes a coilover setup for the rear (740 I think). You can also make your own. Easy peasy with the tools you have.
"True coilovers" as in Macpherson struts all around, and not a trailing arm setup. Which would require me to build my own towers in the rear, i know. 740s and 940s are the same, having a trailing arm suspension. So they dont have the "true" coilovers that im looking for.

For the front crossmember, i want to use bmw suspension and they use a pinch clamp on the knuckle for the struts, whereas the 240s, the strut is connected with the knuckle (i dont believe you can separate the two). Therefore i cant use the 240 struts since they dont have the pinch clamp, and since im not using the strut that means i would have to modify the control arms to fit the bmws knuckle, but with all that work, i figured to just use the whole front end off of the e46 and just make adjustments for that.

I get im making alot more work for myself, and at this point i do wish i wouldve just kept it a rolling chassis and did the motor swap and some suspension upgrades and call it a day. But i since im at this point, i might as well do the extreme and what many others havent done. I like uniqueness, and i like to make things difficult for myself. I mean i like volvos so that alone should say something.
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:32 PM   #49
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You'll find that the BMW front towers are in another area code compared to the Volvo 240.
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Old 02-09-2017, 03:40 PM   #50
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You'll find that the BMW front towers are in another area code compared to the Volvo 240.
Area code, as in different mounting points? If so, i know this. My plans were to use the mounting perch? or mounting insulator? Whatever you like to call them, from the 240. If that doesnt work ill redrill the mounting holes.
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