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Old 11-25-2019, 07:55 PM   #26
Lankku
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I think breaking the bolt has something to do with time and heat cycles and the place of the bolt. On some cases there has been dried oil in the bolthole while others are clean. But all stumps have come out easily. I've never broken bolts on an engine which has had the head off. I've even used same bolts two or three times and they have been fine. Just measure that they haven't stretched.

I know of a couple of engines which have also had the bolt snap, and those have also been unopened before. Seen a pic of one low mileage B6284T bolt which had the thread still keeping it together Looked like it had been over torqued on assembly.

And, it doesn't seem to matter if you open that bolt first or last, or if the engine is warm or cold. It'll break if it's going to. Got to start trying to give it a couple of good whacks.
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Old 11-25-2019, 08:36 PM   #27
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All whiteblocks make that terrible groaning sound when you're breaking them free. I've taken apart a least a dozen or more whiteblocks and never had a bolt snap. The cheater bar is the key to breaking them free. It's even worse when you have to torque them down and then do the final angle torque. So be prepared for that. Just take your time and you'll be fine.

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Old 11-25-2019, 09:01 PM   #28
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Also a good impact socket helps. It's a tight opening most 1/2 drive sockets won't fit and you'll absolutely break a 3/8 drive one. I finally found a good hard impact socket that would fit and stopped having issues.
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Old 11-25-2019, 09:30 PM   #29
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I've removed the head from two B6284Ts in the junkyard, and only had one bolt break. I guess I got lucky.
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Old 12-20-2019, 05:34 PM   #30
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Haven't been posting updates because progress has been in fits and starts, the end of the year had me needing to finish up a couple of work projects that kept me pretty busy.

The head went off to the machine shop to get pressure tested, ground, hot tanked, decked and the valve seals replaced. The shop mentioned it looking pretty sludgy but also said that they barely needed to take anything off to get it cleaned up:



They also tanked the valve cover for me because even after using gasket remove the anaerobic sealant was holding on. It *still* had left over sealant on it when it came back, but it came up really easily with another application of gasket remover and a plastic razor blade this time:



My pile of cleaned and painted parts is getting nearer to where it should be as well:



Up until very recently, I was completely unaware that you could disassemble and clean hydraulic lifters, so thanks Youtube.



About half of my lifters would collapse completely when squeezed when I took the engine apart, but I'm going to rehab all 24 of them. They're as sludgy as the rest of the top end, it's no wonder the check valves inside have gotten stuck. I've been soaking them overnight, two at a time, in one of those scary/stinky parts cleaner cans from NAPA, rinsing them in lacquer thinner, wiping any remaining crud out with a pair of forceps and bits of shop towel, rinsing again, then re-assembling with a bit of synthetic and the air bled out. It's pretty easy to tell they'll hold pressure.

I've also been sitting down with printed copies of the S90 and 240 wiring diagrams and filling out a master spreadsheet to figure out which wires are getting cut and spliced together. I have a 47-pin Deutsch bulkhead fitting I'd like to use, but it's only got five positions that can take 14-16awg wires.

In an attempt to make my life easier and keep a working temp gauge, I bought a thermostat housing from a 1999 V70 that has two threaded holes in it instead of the single one in the S90 housing. Broke4speed did the same, but I realized after I got it that in his case, he's using a VW NTC sensor for the gauge, and he calibrated his ECU to use a GM LS sensor. I tried screwing the stock S90 sensor into the housing, and of course it's too long. From what I've been able to find on the Internet, it seems like the resistance curve on the S90 sensor is very similar to a standard sensor that got used on a lot of VW/Audi/BMW stuff that should also have the right threading.

Last edited by thatcher.hubbard; 12-20-2019 at 06:36 PM.. Reason: typo
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Old 01-29-2020, 01:14 AM   #31
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I've been working on boring and not picture-worthy engine rebuild stuff and also doing a lot of reading of wiring diagrams and ordering of parts to get everything buttoned back up properly. The plan is to pull the B230F this Friday and get after it, and I've got a friend coming in from out of town to help so I can't punk out.

Getting the wiring harness taken apart hasn't been terrible, but it does take time. A lot of the stuff in the harness is twisted in two or three-wire groups, which I assume is to reduce cross-talk without having to resort to shielded cables. I've been pulling and labeling pins at the fusebox end.




I trace stuff back to the main ECU connector where I have a pretty comprehensive pin map built to reference:



On the list of "crap I didn't think about that might screw my schedule", I figured out that the fuel system on the S90 is returnless. I knew that was a thing, I just thought it didn't become common until more recently. Not sure what options I have around that. Aftermarket ($$$) fuel rail and FPR so it has a return path? It looks like Alex Buchka's swap originally used the OEM rail, but I can't tell from the pictures if he welded a return fitting on it or not.
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Old 01-29-2020, 09:49 AM   #32
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Just get a fuel filter with the regulator in it. That's how the OE's do it . There's a Corvette one that is popular these days.
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Old 01-29-2020, 11:09 AM   #33
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Something like this?

https://tinyurl.com/t8ye2ny
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Old 01-29-2020, 12:32 PM   #34
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...or I'm just being stupid.

Here's the FPR:



Clearly, the bottom line is a return, and I'm pretty confident it is because I put my caliper in it and it measures out at 5/16". So it's a "non-return" system, but it returns from just outside the rail.

So I just have to figure out what to do on the upper threaded feed fitting. Threads measure out at 5/8", with an I.D. of 5/16". The original fitting was a hard line I don't have any more (again with the stupid, I could have flared and clamped it into the existing fuel line).
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Old 01-29-2020, 06:04 PM   #35
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Yep, that's the return .
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Old 01-29-2020, 06:53 PM   #36
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Any ideas what size the banjo fitting that goes over that thing is supposed to be? There's a 94 960 at the JY near me, I guess I could always go pay for a part I already had on my own parts car .
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Old 01-30-2020, 09:01 AM   #37
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Banjo? It looks like it's the same as the fitting that goes to the rail. It'll be a flare nut of some sort, but I don't know about size :(.
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Old 01-30-2020, 10:28 AM   #38
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It's some sort of flare fitting. I used the original line from the S90 as it fit my 740 perfectly. I guess that doesn't help you now?
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Old 01-30-2020, 02:44 PM   #39
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Yeah, I saw some Volvo parts that came up when I Googled it that had a banjo on one end, but it's just a flare nut.

I *think* it's actually 5/18-18, because everything I can find says that an O.D. of 5/8-18 is for a nominal I.D. of 3/8" with an actual of more like 5/16". Which is what my calipers measured it as. One of these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-640610?rrec=true

..and then maybe a -6AN to barb adapter might work. But I'll probably just run to the JY and see if the 960 still has fuel lines.

Is it weird that a car built in Sweden in 1997 still had a ****load of SAE fittings on it?
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Old 01-31-2020, 01:04 PM   #40
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Maybe a couple of other reasons to prefer a '97 as a donor car over a '98:

- The 1998 S90 has a fuel pressure sensor toward the back of the car that's wired to the ECU. I can't find any clearer description of what it does, but it doesn't appear to be a simple switch, it's got a separate power feed and then two wires that run back to individual pins on the ECU. Rock Auto has a part, but the picture looks nothing like the diagram in the green book, though it does at least have the right number of pins. I'll almost certainly try to start the engine without it, we'll see what happens.

- The 1998 S90 also has an EGT probe. The function diagram in the manual makes it appear to simply turn on a warning light when the EGT is over 850 degrees C, but the manual also suggests it's somehow linked to the EGR system. It looks like this part is still available, but it's spendy.

- The S90 has an external air temp sensor wired to the ECU. This one isn't so bad, as it's part of the main engine harness, and the part is still available relatively cheaply.

Obviously, if you were doing a whiteblock swap and going aftermarket, you could ignore all of this stuff or use it as made sense. With the OEM Motronic 4.4 we'll see if any of this stuff is limp-home inducing, or if just turns the CEL on.

Last edited by thatcher.hubbard; 01-31-2020 at 01:05 PM.. Reason: unclear
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Old 01-31-2020, 01:12 PM   #41
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All of those -98 changes seem to be US-stuff if it's true(?). Euro models do not have those.
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Old 01-31-2020, 01:58 PM   #42
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Right. The green book has two entirely different sets of diagrams for USA/Canada and then everybody else. It looks like maybe they'd been putting the EGT sensor on Japanese export models.

The description of the fuel pressure sensor indicates that it's supposed to detect a leak in the fuel system, not sure how true that it, but hopefully if it's not hooked up it won't be a no-start situation.
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Old 02-01-2020, 02:47 AM   #43
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Okay, time to stop daydreaming, collecting parts and Internet researching. The garage got cleaned up (sort of) last night, so I pulled the car into the garage around 2:00 this afternoon and got started.

The engine bay on this thing has always been pretty dirty:



A couple of hours (and dealing with a rounded off bumper nut) later, I had this:



I'd never pulled the front clip on a 240 before, so I found a Youtube video which was helpful, except for telling me that the nuts were 17mm. They're actually 16mm kids, and I happened to start on one that was already a little borked.

I ended finishing up around 10pm, this was the last pic I took though I got a little further:



I took the whole fuel rail off because I couldn't get the flare nut loose on in, not even with two large crescent wrenches. I also got all of the wiring and hose loose so I should be able to work on lifting it out of the engine bay right away tomorrow.

Last edited by thatcher.hubbard; 02-01-2020 at 11:17 AM.. Reason: typo
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Old 02-01-2020, 11:00 AM   #44
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Huzzah progress! :D
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Old 02-03-2020, 12:28 AM   #45
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It was a long weekend, was in the garage till 10 a couple of nights, but the engine is in the car. It's not quite ready to stay there permanently, but it fits and I'm happy with the motor mount clearance on the driver's side.

Getting the old B230 out took a little more doing that I would have thought, ended up taking most of the morning on Saturday, but it eventually came out:



As I said before, the engine bay was really nasty, especially down between the cross member and the steering rack. We got after it with some purple degreaser, a brush and a power washer and things are clean enough for me to live with:



A friend of mine is a former professional welder, he tacked the Homer mounts up for me on Saturday afternoon and then did the full job on them today after we'd test fit the engine into the bay. They do *require* some grinding/cutting on the back end of the driver's side mount so the steering u-joint bolt will clear, and in the case of my '92 with ABS, also required a tiny bevel on the back edge towards the outside of the car to clear the brake lines as they run along the frame rail. However, they were perfect in terms of the other dimensions and the engine basically sat right down in them with no drama:



It's not clear in the picture, but the transmission is on the back of the motor there. I need to tilt the driver's side mount ever so slightly in towards the center line of the car, mark and drill holes for the inner engine mount bolts in the cross member, then pull everything out so I can prime and paint the mounts.

There is a ton left to do, but just knowing I can get the engine into the car properly is a load off, and a lot of this is stuff I can pick away at a few hours at time.
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Old 02-16-2020, 06:43 PM   #46
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I've been making slow progress on this because I've had to take it easy due to a bruised rib. I'd been working on getting the interior disassembled and figuring out the what and where of a supplementary fuse/relay panel in the interim. I also manage to snap this off of Craigslist for $500:



It's a Hobart 210 MVP, which ticked all of my boxes:
  • 120V and 240V input
  • Came with a bottle (but it's argon)
  • American-made so my welder friends don't give me any more sh*t

It even came with the spool gun for aluminum!

This will make solving the questions of exhaust and a transmission mount a lot easier to handle on my own.

I felt good enough today to get after finalizing the location of the engine mounts and I'm kind of stumped. It seems safe to assume that the center of the crankshaft should measure out at the same distance to either frame rail. Mine is off by 4-6mm towards the driver's side of the car. I've adjusted the passenger side mount towards the rail about as far as it can go, but it hasn't helped, so I assume it's the driver's side mount. I've already ground a fair amount off the back of that mount to clear the lower u-joint on the steering column, what appears to be about as much as other people using the Homer mounts have done. I may have to relieve it even more and maybe weld another reinforcing plate inside the mount when I've got it to fit.
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Old 02-22-2020, 01:57 PM   #47
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The question of centering the engine in the bay got sorted out with just a tiny bit more grinding, less than I'd feared. I was able to drill the inner mounting hole on each from the front, but I need to find a stubby 1/2" bit to get into the back, the distance between the cross member and the rear control arm mount is just a little too tight for my drill. Engine mounts got a bit of flap wheeling, self-etching primer and a couple of coats of paint, so they're ready to go in permanently:



Earlier in the thread I was trying to find a fitting to attach to the OEM fuel pressure regulator and was talking about it looking like a 5/8"-18 SAE thread. That was wrong. It's a 16mm, and if for some reason you want to hook onto one and convert it to -AN, this is your part:



It's a 16mmx1.5mm o-ring (or inverse flare) female to 6AN male. It was out-of-stock with the usual suspects (Jegs, Summit), so I ended up getting it off of eBay. I already had gotten a 6AN to 5/16" barb fitting, the combination of the two should make it possible to adapt to the OEM 240 fuel lines.

I also finished getting the dashboard out of the car. Removing the dash has always resulted in some interesting findings with my previous project cars, and this one was no different. There is like an entire lawn and garden bag's full of pine needles and leaves stuffed behind the heater core:



Nasty, but at least they're all bone dry. Somebody also did a hack job on getting the aftermarket stereo installed that included deciding that the best way to secure a bracket to the dash was to use a friggin' drywall screw, which made getting the stereo out quite a chore.
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Old 09-09-2020, 08:09 PM   #48
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I have actually made some tentative progress on this project, though not a lot of it is picture-worthy and thus I haven't been posting.

I'll summarize as best as I can:

- The head is back on the engine and it's been timed:



- I have unwired the engine bay as far as I believe I need to at this point, and can start adding things back, starting with the use of the S90 main fusebox which I'll locate between the driver's strut tower and the ABS unit:



- I've got the dash/center console/heater unit mostly removed:



- I found an ordered the terminals I need to wire all of the new and existing power draws into the main fusebox once I have it mounted:



- I finished separating out what I need to retain from the S90 ECU/TCU harness:



- I trimmed the ECU tray from the S90 down so I can mount it to an ABS panel in the passenger footwell:



And finally, in a stunning display of doing a thing I said I wasn't going to do, I bought this of Craigslist for $100:



I had decided a couple of months ago that the effort to retain the AW30-40 with the TCU didn't make sense anymore because this is now my third vehicle and thus I can make it a manual if I want. At that point, my plan was T5 all the way, but they ended up being harder to find and more expensive than I wanted for something that a few people I trust said would feel "Meh".

Hence the Toyota W55. The ratios actually make good sense to me in a 3000lb. car with ~180hp. There are a couple of choices for adapters, and I already got my hands on a manual pedal box and a whiteblock single-mass flywheel.
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Old 09-09-2020, 09:47 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatcher.hubbard View Post
And finally, in a stunning display of doing a thing I said I wasn't going to do, I bought this of Craigslist for $100:

(picture)

I had decided a couple of months ago that the effort to retain the AW30-40 with the TCU didn't make sense anymore because this is now my third vehicle and thus I can make it a manual if I want. At that point, my plan was T5 all the way, but they ended up being harder to find and more expensive than I wanted for something that a few people I trust said would feel "Meh".

Hence the Toyota W55. The ratios actually make good sense to me in a 3000lb. car with ~180hp. There are a couple of choices for adapters, and I already got my hands on a manual pedal box and a whiteblock single-mass flywheel.

I'm guessing you don't need me to keep my eyes peeled for a T5 anymore, then?

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