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941g 16v turbo build

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before I make an official post, Ill get a pic of the beat up chamber, butits minimul and Ill weld it and clean it a little. But more or less for the cost of adjustable gears, the performance cams and the valvetrain parts Ill send you the whole head for you to work with. Its been ported and flows like 262/251. Ive got my intake too, but itll only work in a 7/9 vert setup, which I have motor mounts for too.

Really anything, just ask. The 16v timing setup is sold, pending the crank gear too.
 
affirmative on th 200 bolts. I seriously think it cracked the sleeved bore and hydrolocked...broke the rod and took out the aux shaft, which broke the second rod. pistons 3 and 4 still move freely.
 
Bummer to reach for, and get, the brass ring and still get O-Yeah'ed. Condolences, that must have been a pricey experience.

I started adding up the carnage, and quit. I may have started crying! The good news is tho, I have enough in parts to buy the 2j.
 
:-(

Damn that sucks- Glad I got to see it/you at IPD...

Ima vote LS, just cause you're part way there with T56 already. Where you love the inline sound, I love the sound of V8s- especially the LS motors- I wish my SBC sounded like that- at best they sound like a old school bus. :oops:

Coffee table! dooo eeet...
 
:-(

Damn that sucks- Glad I got to see it/you at IPD...

Ima vote LS, just cause you're part way there with T56 already. Where you love the inline sound, I love the sound of V8s- especially the LS motors- I wish my SBC sounded like that- at best they sound like a old school bus. :oops:

Coffee table! dooo eeet...

I hear ya, bigger clutches with less pedal effort too

man that sucks.

seems kind of weird that the bore would break though.

It was a pressed in sleeve. The bore that broke, still has the connecting rod on the crank.
 
It was a pressed in sleeve. The bore that broke, still has the connecting rod on the crank.

maybe i'm missing something, but just one of your cylinders took a crap right? non of the other 3 were effected?

so you conclusion was that the bore broke (or pressed in sleeve) which caused the motor to hydro lock.

from the carnage picture I can see half the bore missing, but can't make out whats going on in the picture
 
So it didn't have a half concrete block like other cars over 500hp seem to?

Sucks your giving up on the volvo motor and going with a common 2jz, the fact you call it a daily is something that amazes me since it always seems to be in bits, what do you do when it's broken? Use the real daily? :p
 
maybe i'm missing something, but just one of your cylinders took a crap right? non of the other 3 were effected?

so you conclusion was that the bore broke (or pressed in sleeve) which caused the motor to hydro lock.

from the carnage picture I can see half the bore missing, but can't make out whats going on in the picture


Ill get a better pic later on the bore. There is no cylinder left. And thats only my speculation. Well never know what the first failure point was, but with the rod being pressed out like it is and the other of half still connected to the crank, and the black smoke like a diesel truck my son described coming out the tail pipe just before, that leads me to beleive that it cracked (wall was like .115) and sucked in water at 28psi.

So it didn't have a half concrete block like other cars over 500hp seem to?

Sucks your giving up on the volvo motor and going with a common 2jz, the fact you call it a daily is something that amazes me since it always seems to be in bits, what do you do when it's broken? Use the real daily? :p

The block was filled half way, clear to the freeze plugs. You can see it in the pics.

2jz might be an easy way out, but so is the T5 when the volvo trannys dont hold up, or the 8.8 when rearends start to go. The money needed to make the engine back to where it was is just as much as doing the whole 2j swap. At that point, Ill know Ill have a 500whp gasoline and a 600whp ethynol motor that will giggle at them power them levels. Much more and the street tires wont handle it, and anymore than the track tune and Ill have to cage it.

This car is my DD, I bought it when I had my daughter so I could have a car too, to get my family around in. I just tend to go overboard. Even with the volvo motor, it was very tame to drive and got around 30mpg on the freeway and in town near 20 when I kept my foot out of it. I like the whole body lines of the car, and not many other rwd, turbo's, 4 door family cars out there.

When this thing is down (the fisrt time is was the 16v build, the second time the cam roll pins sheared, and the thrid time I broke a pressure plate from to much launch controlling it, i turned it into a huge project myself this time around, I could have swapped clutches and carried on but I wanted a 6 speed and quicker spool) I have a 4 runner that is meant for the trail, its on beadlocks, dual cases, lifted and soft suspension. Has a 7mge in it and gets like 18mpg, but its a pits to drive on a daily basis. Then I have my tow rig, big ol 10mpg suburban. great to drive, needs shocks, but it blows in the fuel department.

So I have a few intakes to get done, then Ill start the swap. Dont look like it will be very hard. The exhaust is already ran, the fuel system is already plumbed. I need the t56 adapter and bolt it to the tranny, build motor mounts. I may have to move the tranny back a touch, so shorten the first driveline. Ill ebay a header and intake, bolt on my 6262 and finsih out the dp, and hook up the intercooler piping. No motor work is needed. And with the aem ecu, Ill be able to run launch, traction controls, run different closed loop idle and cruise, along with all the nutty datalogging that comes with it oo.
 
I'm totally behind ya on the 2JZ man. It really is everything you want, more power less hassle and less $.

When my (yet to be completed) 16vT redblock blows I'm not doing another Volvo motor either.

I'm sorry that you didn't get to have some more fun with this current build.
 
I need the t56 adapter and bolt it to the tranny, build motor mounts. I may have to move the tranny back a touch, so shorten the first driveline.

Depending on how you do this, and if you're willing to duplicate, I'd be interested in that adapter. I have a T56 that I can't give away and would be better suited in my car that's on its 3rd supra tt auto trans.
 
IMG_20120623_150408.jpg

Kinda strange how gnar'd up the top of the piston is, it looks like it cycled several hundred times with something in there before letting go. Possibly a piece of cylinder wall?

Just for comparison here's Rob's failed cylinder wall (understand this is just one case and things can fail different ways).

enginefail009.jpg
 
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