• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

92 240 AC Rebuild

Just swap your old switch over to the new accumulator. Use a new o-ring if you have one.
 
ZVOLV i got the low pressure adapter worked out on the R/D.

I apparently got one for a 93 240 where the switch wasnt on the R/D. After this new R/D comes in I will be set to go.
 
I will take that as a "no".

On my 1990 240 I just added a R134 adapter on the back of the compressor, vacuumed it down, added the proper weight of refrigerant and some Ester oil and enjoyed the cold A/C. Don't even worry about the high side. I do my work thru the low side.

I just got a really nice oil injector. Its a hand screw type. I just vac down the car, screw in the oil, charge and go. If you don't have a tool, you can just open a line and pour the oil in.

picture.php
 
Last edited:
Yea i have seen that tool around or something similar.

I have a question about the R/D hard line. The hose line going to the compressor came off easy but the hardline going to firewall acts a bit of a pain.

Will I be able to take it off while other end is still attached to firewall? How does removal work for this hardline?
 
If you screw up you may be doing an evaporator! I forget if the lines connect right to it.( No other connections) Be careful. These aluminum threads are easy to strip or crossthread.

Its a good practice to replace the drier because the dessicant gets saturated with moisture, but on old cars I may just avoid it because I don't wanna break anything. I had to do a 3 day evaporator swap last year because I damaged a fitting going the the firewall. The same caution applies to heater core fittings.
 
Last edited:
I broke one of the aluminum connectors to the condenser being ever so careful. Some are just not going to come apart.

If it is part of the R/D and you don't want to screw it up just vacuum for a couple hours. That will have affect on moisture in the R/D but replacing it is always better.
 
xDread92x said:
Yea i have seen that tool around or something similar.

I have a question about the R/D hard line. The hose line going to the compressor came off easy but the hardline going to firewall acts a bit of a pain.

Will I be able to take it off while other end is still attached to firewall? How does removal work for this hardline?
Click to expand...

Yes you can take it off just use TWO pair of very nice gripping pliers. Hold the evaporator portion very still (helps to have a friend) and loosen the nut/fitting. Might need a breaker bar or something. Another option is the hit your wrench with a hammer, similar to how an impact wrench works. I?ve had to do that before.
 
Hey All,

So some updates.

I got the receiver/dryer and orifice tube replaced. I bough the $20 vacuum pump from harbor freight that you use with a compressor. The compressor is rated at 150 psi. I do not have a high side port anywhere that I have been able to find. With it being a 1992 and R12 i guess its safe to assume it doesn't have one??

Anyway, I pulled a vacuum for about an hour and a half. The low pressure vacuum reading wouldn't go above 15. I read the inner part of green vacuum gauge as I believe thats the right one to read. After letting the vacuum off it seemed to stay at 15. I could have a leak in the condenser, compressor, or compressor hose? I know I could still get it to cool but it wont cool efficiently. I am going to try and run another vacuum test and see if its similar.
 
Last edited:
Those air compressor driven vacuum pumps are never going to get to the -30psi target but are probably much better than my first effort at recharging a dead AC system.

I fed a couple cans of $0.89 (Kmart on sale) R12 through the low pressure side until it came out the high pressure side and then a little more.

Worked just fine.
 
My rinky dink pneumatic vacuum pump can get down to about -27psi. I bet your air compressor just cant keep up, try letting your compressor fill up then connect it and keep an eye on the gauge.
 
Go rent a vacuum pump and a set of gauges from auto zone. You get your money back when you return the tools. If you want your ac to work properly, you're going to need to get the proper tools and replace all seals and clean out the system. And if you need cans of R12 I have 36 12oz cans sitting in my garage.
 
I do have a proper gauge set up and the vacuum pump although compressor driven has been used by many others with success re-cooling their AC.

Can anyone tell me more about the high pressure side if the 92 240 has one? Again, I have converted this to R134a.

If its holding the vacuum it is showing then I think I may be okay as far as leaks are concerned, atleast majorly.
 
Texas240 said:
Go rent a vacuum pump and a set of gauges from auto zone. You get your money back when you return the tools.
Click to expand...
+1 man. It will pull all the vacuum you need. I bought the harbor freight one for like $99 and it pulls a damn near perfect vacuum on most cars.

xDread92x said:
Can anyone tell me more about the high pressure side if the 92 240 has one? Again, I have converted this to R134a.

If its holding the vacuum it is showing then I think I may be okay as far as leaks are concerned, atleast majorly.
Click to expand...

No high at all. I mean maybe there’s an r12 high side access on the compressor but good luck reaching it effectively.

Here’s what you do:
1. Rent vacuum pump, vacuum for 30+ minutes from the low side only. It will achieve over 28"Hg and boil off moisture.
2. Fill with 80% of the original r12 weight (if using r134a). Also fill with correct amount of oil if you haven’t already.
3. Enjoy AC.

It is literally that easy. And make sure your pusher fan works.
 
So without a high side pressure reading I wont really know what the health of the compressor is etc.

I guess really what I am doing here is vacuum and then just charging it to see if it holds/stays cold and for how long.
 
This thread is too long. Vacuum, squirt in 2 oz ester oil, recharge with the proper weight, go.
 
xDread92x said:
So without a high side pressure reading I wont really know what the health of the compressor is etc.

I guess really what I am doing here is vacuum and then just charging it to see if it holds/stays cold and for how long.
Click to expand...

Welcome to owning volvos. It?s a stupid design but it is what it is.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top