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Old 08-06-2014, 06:56 PM   #1
nate2k5
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Default Another exciter wire thread

Car is a 1989 Volvo 240 w/ 2.4

I had this issue in the past where the alternator was ok but it would not charge. After a new alternator and running a new wire from the exciter stud to the red wire on the firewall i was homefree. After nearly a year of no issues its back with a vengeance. I recently did the tep board bypass so I don't know if that is related. On my way home last night lights dimmed, radio cut out and by the time I got home it wouldn't start again. Took it to advance to charge the battery today and it was perfectly fine.

So I have no charge and the alternator and battery are known good. After the initial key turn the idiot lights were all there. After starting and letting it run ****tily for a bit and shutting it off it no longer had any of the other lights except for oil pressure. I need this fixed asap, what can i do to get it working at least temp. I tried jumping it from the battery and coil to no avail. It will not self excite. Voltage is 12.54 and holding on battery while running but will not go higher.

I am not very good at electrical stuff so break down what i need to do please.
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:21 PM   #2
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ok just checked. dash lights come on when the exciter is grounded but after removing and retightening they do not come on when reattached to the alternator
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Old 08-06-2014, 07:54 PM   #3
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sounds like a bad ground. Maybe try running another new wire from the ground point to bare metal on the block. That wire should be a decent gauge if you leave it and forget.
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Old 08-06-2014, 08:00 PM   #4
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I think the ground circuit for the warning lights depends on both the brushes and regulator. Check the brushes. They may have warn down since the alternator was tested. Is this an internal regulator?
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Old 08-06-2014, 08:14 PM   #5
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the alternator is a reman i installed 10 months ago

i am pulling it now to be tested and to redo the ground wire, its a little shoddy but it worked until now. i hope the china alt just **** out and i can get it warranted, although i really wish i could have gotten it fixed tonight.
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Old 08-06-2014, 08:20 PM   #6
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will a strap like this be adequate?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=98830_0_0_
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Old 08-06-2014, 08:20 PM   #7
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How is the ground wire for the body of the alternator? What is the voltage on the charging light circuit wire at the alternator? It should have battery voltage on it with the key on but engine off. Then you monitor it after starting it should equal B+ and stay there.
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Old 08-06-2014, 08:44 PM   #8
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What is the voltage at the alternator?
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Old 08-06-2014, 09:15 PM   #9
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i didn't get that checked. it was obvious it wasn't doing a damn thing and the battery was slowly losing voltage. i pulled it out and am going to have it bench tested tomorrow and buy a new ground strap. is there anything else it could be? the exciter circuit seems strong and healthy.
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Old 08-07-2014, 02:19 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate2k5 View Post
i pulled it out
Well, that will make it easier for you to remove the 2 screws and pull out the voltage regulator. As "johfraser" said, check the brushes. If they're worn down to little nubs, then you've found the problem. Just because it's "newish" doesn't mean it's any good.

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Old 08-07-2014, 10:38 AM   #11
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I had this exact problem. The wire looked and ohm tested good to the battery connection, but it was all corroded inside the crimp and had green crap where the wire was supposed to exist.

I replaced all the wiring and problem solved.
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:59 AM   #12
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you replaced the alternator to starter wire and starter wire to battery? i dropped the alternator off at autozone to have them check it before work and picked up a wire kit to remake the ground.
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:33 PM   #13
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Before pulling things off the car you should run the proper tests.

What is your battery voltage key off, engine off?

What is the voltage at the connection on the alternator key off, engine off?

Check your grounds. The ground from the alternator to the block and from the block to the battery.

What is the voltage voltage at the exciter wire in key ON, engine off?

You say things like the alternator is "known good" but you haven't performed basic testing. How do you know it's good?
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Old 08-07-2014, 05:28 PM   #14
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just got back form autozone. the alternator tested bad and was warrantied.

i haven't had many newer parts go bad this quickly.
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Old 08-07-2014, 05:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
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just got back form autozone. the alternator tested bad and was warrantied.

i haven't had many newer parts go bad this quickly.
It's probably their fault.

I just found out they don't really do to much to the cores they reuse. Sometimes they aren't even cleaned, so if there's corrosion in the coil but it meets specs while half ass testing them, they just pop on a shiny case and probably new diode board and resell it for top dollar.
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Old 08-07-2014, 05:52 PM   #16
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Yea my dad went through 3 alternators in a row,all bad until he got a good one,that was a while back but still..

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Old 08-07-2014, 09:37 PM   #17
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There are so many shortcuts taken I their rebuilds that I'm surprised they don't have more issues.
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:11 PM   #18
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I don't use the exciter, you don't need it with a $9 Chrysler regulator. :^)
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Old 08-08-2014, 02:04 AM   #19
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Dirty Rick, then how do you know when you have a charging system failure?
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Old 08-08-2014, 08:11 AM   #20
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Many wouldn't care, the $50 they saved will keep their pipe filled for half a week!
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Old 08-08-2014, 11:54 AM   #21
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it seems to be good now, my cigarette lighter volt gauge is showing 13.8-14.1 whereas after i installed the last one it rarely went above 13.0.
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Old 08-08-2014, 12:17 PM   #22
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Crappy rebuilt alternators from the parts store. Doesn't surprise me. One reason I always get mine rebuilt locally.
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Old 08-08-2014, 09:54 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nate2k5 View Post
just got back form autozone. the alternator tested bad and was warrantied.

i haven't had many newer parts go bad this quickly.
Went through 3 bad alternators at O'reilly. One tested okay but on my car it was not working. Being an electrical engineer type, went back to observe the test, and there were issues with the tester and the nice kid behind the counter and his training. I did not expect much though and it was not the kids fault.

Headed two miles to the You Pull and Pay and grabbed one, and it is still in my ride today. Got a spare out of another car sitting on the shelf. I am never buying anything electric from O'Reillys, NAPA or Vatozone again.
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Old 10-18-2014, 02:57 PM   #24
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Wow! Similar issue here with my 740 b230f, got the car 3 weeks ago for $400 and had a spray painted 80amp denso. Was fine for a day then driving the lights in dash would come on when I let off the gas, and radio went out and batt would go dead. swapped out 2 boshe and same thing...
I have no working speedo to..
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Old 10-19-2014, 11:08 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldGrandpaTune View Post
Went through 3 bad alternators at O'reilly. One tested okay but on my car it was not working. Being an electrical engineer type, went back to observe the test, and there were issues with the tester and the nice kid behind the counter and his training. I did not expect much though and it was not the kids fault.

Headed two miles to the You Pull and Pay and grabbed one, and it is still in my ride today. Got a spare out of another car sitting on the shelf. I am never buying anything electric from O'Reillys, NAPA or Vatozone again.
That's it man,that's it.
If a starter/alternator ever fails on one of my bricks I'm heading to the PnP and finding the cleanest/lowest mile Bosch/OE and taking it home.

We limits O' Jokers to just belts and misc small bits now...
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