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Old 03-23-2010, 07:17 PM   #1
Flying Jester
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Default B230 Dual Carburetion from Marine Engine

Anyone with a B230 tried converting to dual single barrels from a marine engine? I'm seriously considering it, as my car's fuel tank is full of crap, my injectors are old and worn, my engine idle is the worst I've ever heard, the fuel pump is not so good, and I have a few marine AQ141 engines with totally compatible heads sitting around.

I'm really considering using the whole head, it seems to have bigger valves, and I like the feel of marine cams.
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:29 PM   #2
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Do any of the manifolds you have use dual su carbs?
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:30 PM   #3
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Oh yeah, the marine manifolds do. It appears to be a bolt on affair, except that I need to convert the fuel system away from EFI...thinking either a new self regulated electric pump, or a regulator and keep the return line.
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Old 03-23-2010, 07:45 PM   #4
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You should only need the in tank pump. It puts out more than enough for carbs. Just need a fuel pressure reg to drop the pressure

What i was asking is do any of the manifolds have 2 of these bolted on:

I am curious if there ever was a manifold for these carbs and the b21/23/230 engines, I know they were made for the b20.
If they do, i want one.

Marine and cars use the same cams, and they list is in the articles page on this site. You are just more likely to find a bumpier cam in a marine engine.
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:47 PM   #5
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No, they are for non side-draft solexes. They have a small round bore, and a pattern of four bolts in a square pattern.
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Old 03-23-2010, 08:50 PM   #6
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:12 PM   #7
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OP, those dual solexes are not that great for power or economy. They are meant to be durable. Period. A Weber DGV is commonly available and NIB for $500 or so. It will give so-so economy and awful performance, but it will be easy. Come drive my B20F 4 speed 242 and see if you are really ready for the awe and majesty that is a 90hp 240.
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:34 PM   #8
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:08 PM   #9
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Yeah...I'm just trying desperately to keep my car moving. The fuel system is so tired it can't keep up the pressure it needs. My in-tank pump has never worked, or at least never worked very much. The carbs I have are here, right now, and already mine. I got the car for free, and I'm about twenty dollars into it after a year and a half of using it.

I ought to say back, "Come drive my B230E 5 speed 245 GL if you are ready to see the majesty of the only 240 left that idles smoothly!"

That's really all I want, a good idle. Oh, and if it started, that would also be nice.
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:00 PM   #10
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Well let me tell you. Of the people on this board, I'm probably a bigger proponent of carbs than 90% of them and I'd still hesitate at putting Solexes on a road car. You will get idle, you will get WOT. You will have very little in between. Not much reward for your efforts.

I understand you are trying to do this on the cheap. I would seriously consider swapping some of the boat parts for a Weber mani and use a DGV, or prefferably a 38/38 DGAS. Both are considered performance and economy upgrades in the marine community (and a penalty box in the car community).

Keep in mind that no matter what you do, you still need to drop the tank and clean it. You will need a new pump, and you will have to do something with the lines. They are probably full of crap too. If you thought junk in the fuel system screwed up efi, wait til you see what it does to a carb. The proper thing to do would be to run a new line. You will also need to sort out the ignition since it will no longer have an ecu to communicate with. Now are you sure that you want to do all that work and end up with a balky motor that work like a light switch? I would really look at a Weber if you are going to do this at all.

P.S. you're in Alaska, why not talk to your Canadian neighbors and find a single carb mani (or whole motor) from the early B21s?
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Old 03-24-2010, 12:11 PM   #11
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Wait a minute here, you said you got some good heads lying around? Are they 531? More info on these motors? I am interested in them. and i got or can get all the parts you need here......trades.....



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Old 03-25-2010, 01:18 AM   #12
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Might be worth trying but with different carbs, might see if you can adapt some solex/brosol 44mm carbs like aftermarket VWs run sometimes, some of the better 1bbl carbs. look on www.lowbugget.com
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Old 03-25-2010, 07:07 PM   #13
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Old 03-25-2010, 07:50 PM   #14
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are the coil packs zip tied to the window frame for cooling? I would think that would limit your hood choices.
I want to put a pair of sus on my 79. Its got one already. I just need the manifold. I know, I know webers are better, cooler etc, Im not going for terribly fast, just peppier and period looking under the hood.
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Old 03-25-2010, 08:38 PM   #15
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Nope I just hadn't made the mounts for them at that point
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:50 PM   #16
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Here's a lesson kids.

Don't whittle a wrench out of a piece of wood because its lighter and you have it on hand.
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Old 03-25-2010, 11:08 PM   #17
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I don't get the metaphor.
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Old 03-26-2010, 08:36 AM   #18
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I don't get the metaphor.
I was lost too, good thing im not the only one.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:40 AM   #19
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I don't get the metaphor.
Don't work with what you have, just because you have it, because most times, it will be ****ty.
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Old 03-26-2010, 03:13 PM   #20
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Difference with that engine, though...it looks like it's DOHC!

This build isn't just "budget", it's "midget". It has cost me almost $0 so far...that includes that car, the parts car, and the three marine engines.

The Volvo 240 has never been quite what I wanted, but as close as you can get in Alaska (no sports cars ever make it this far north). I was drawn in by the rear wheel drive, and the 5 speed. It resembles something awesome. It's the idea, I can say honestly that I have a rear wheel drive, manual, multi-carb european car.

It's nice to see that picture, though. It tells me someone has done something like this...I'll have to assume that's one of the few, the proud 16 valv marine B230 engines.

Mostly, I'm doing this because the car isn't worth buying new carbs for.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:07 PM   #21
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Don't work with what you have, just because you have it, because most times, it will be ****ty.
this.

You seem pretty set on this. Good luck to ya. As far as near $0 budget, you are still short one fuel tank, a fuel pump, fuel lines, and a means of spark control. You can keep it cheap by trading some stuff, but you're gonna be out money in the end. To go weber, you need a cheap mani and a used DGV. You'd have to rebuild the solexes, with a DGV you only need one kit. Someone here will have a good cheap solution.
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Old 03-27-2010, 01:35 AM   #22
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I would say as far as fuel tank, just run the one you have, block the return line.

Fuel pump, it will need to be lower in pressure than an FI pump, probably like ~4-7 psi or so, get an aftermarket electric fuel pump, or if the in tank pre pump puts out roughly that you might be able to run that. You will want to connect the pump to a switch that you will have to turn on before you start the car, you wont want to run it for long without the engine running because it could blow out the seals on the carbs, you will need to turn the pump off when you turn off the car too. Most people use an old style floor mounted headlight switch to run the fuel pump off of. *You also may be able to disable your intank pump and use an aftermarket pump to pull through it.

Spark control should be easily done by finding a distributor from a canadian B21A.

And you may not have to rebuild the carbs, i would just clean them up with carb cleaner without taking them apart or adjusting anything. Hook them up and see how they run, if they run great awesome. IF NOT (this is the fun part), there is a trick you can do to clean out old dirty jets, since they will likely be clogged with old gas junk and other not so solid things (if they're clogged). What you do is get the engine running with the air filter off and stick your hand(s) over the carb(s) until the engine dies. Sounds stupid, but it works pretty well with old solex 1bbls (from the aircooled VW world anyway).

And just for clarification, what this does is increases the vacuum in the carb body and sucks the junk out of the jets.

Just some ghetto hot rodder advice for a fellow ghetto hot rodder
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Old 03-28-2010, 08:45 AM   #23
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Spark control should be easily done by finding a distributor from a canadian B21A.
Don't do that! I have one. Do you want to deal with points!!!!

I am looking to do the same thing as the OP. Mine is budget Rally-X build. Done on the cheap.
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:47 AM   #24
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You will want to connect the pump to a switch that you will have to turn on before you start the car, you wont want to run it for long without the engine running because it could blow out the seals on the carbs, you will need to turn the pump off when you turn off the car too.

Be warned, this is very dangerous.
If you get into a wreck, you may not be in a position to shut off the pump. That can lead to a big fire very quickly. Putting the pump on a switch is a short-cut solution for cars that originally had mechanical fuel pumps. You already have perfectly good wiring in place for pump control that includes a mercury switch (or other collision shut-off). Just use the stock relays, it's less work anyway.

I'm also not sure why you wouldn't want a return. They make fuel pressure regulators for carbs too and they are cheap. It's good practice so that you give the carbs just the fuel pressure they need without any 'issues.'

If you reuse the stock tank it will need to be cleaned. Sounds like this car has been sitting, and it's old to begin with. The DIY method works if you follow the instrucs exactly, but if you screw up the new liner will peel off in sheets and royally screw things up. A radiator shop can boil it out if you want it done right. Likewise, if fuel has been sitting in the lines they are full of varnish. That can plug your carbs in short order. Replace them or run an EFI filter between the lines and carb for a while. K-jet filters are badass and use compression fittings you can get from home depot. I'm putting one on the Edsel just to be sure. Carb filters are not as good.

And rebuild the damn carbs. Especially if they have been sitting. I don't know why you would open them to clean them and not do at least the seals.
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Old 03-29-2010, 03:43 PM   #25
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If I was worried about safety, I wouldn't drive an airbag-less, 25 year old rwd car with only front brakes that work.

Well, I've gotten two things to work that I didn't think would: I can get the carbs to spray using a regulator and the original fuel system, complete with return line. The regulator takes the place of the injectors. Also, I have installed a renault vacuum advanced distributor from some strange K-Car (I've had a lot, so I don't know exactly which one), using the Haynes manual to tell me that it in fact is always a Renault distributor.

Heh, and looking at the posts, I feel I need to explain rural Alaska:

No auto shops.
No home depot.
No shipping, except by PO box.

What we have here:

Old Ford trucks
Boats
Dodge Vans
Lotsa Welders
Plenty of spare parts, if originality is no concern.
Four Volvos: Two 240s, B230E, I own both. One PS1800, hasn't run since 1983. One V70, owned by crazy people, and it keeps getting wrecked!

**edit**
Now that I go back, the distributor was definitely from an old canadian volvo...Musta got my box labels crossed somewhere, It does look like a lot like the Dodge Omni distributor.

Last edited by Flying Jester; 03-29-2010 at 08:55 PM..
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