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1971 142S "I'll keep this one"

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So damn excited to have this thing running 85% now. Need to do a full tune up eventually and re-gap the plugs. Valves were set at .024 prior to cam break it to leave plenty of room for things to close/open up as needed. Tomorrow should be fresh long brake lines and bleeding as well as finishing up the fuel system.
 
this is looking so nice! I only got to see it in the dark last week. I have that rear sway if you think it will fit.
 
this is looking so nice! I only got to see it in the dark last week. I have that rear sway if you think it will fit.

Can you let me know what the width is on the outside from square bar to square bar? I'll ask RWC what it's correct for.


No real pictures or substantial update today. Mostly screwed around with choke adjustment, carb tuning to dial in idle speed and mixture, and getting the rest of the engine put back together.

Major work included re-installing the fuel tank, new rubber fuel hose, new sender and gasket, and replaced the long brake lines under the car. I also determined I need new rubber hoses on all four corners and already ordered them- they'll be here Tuesday.
 
I tagged and insured the car yesterday- that was expensive.

Replaced the rear soft lines and got a good pedal. I took the car out for a quick 5-minute test drive and discovered that most of the time, the car runs like dog **** and runs on 2 or 3 cylinders. Occasionally, it cleans up and has some power, but nothing like what it should be.

I'm going to guess there's no oil/wrong oil in the dashpots or crud in the float bowl. I adjusted the mixture to where I could lift the cylinder and the idle didn't change and I set the idle to ~900 RPM.

The rear brakes bled great and the pedal felt good. Drove the car, and decided I wanted to bleed the fronts. I promptly discovered mediocre fluid flow up front. I decided to replace the front rubber lines and then broke the short steel line that runs into the caliper. I need to make two new ones (one for each side because the other one was bad too) out of NiCopp tomorrow afternoon/evening.
 
Dropped the Virgos off at a local used tire place and got a set of good but mixed 195/65R15's mounted. Three still have the little nubs and the other one looks like new. $35 a wheel mounted and balanced with sticky weights is hard to beat until I nail down what to do with wheels exactly.

I made new short caliper lines, went to re-bleed the system, had no pedal, and then promptly broke 4 of the 6 front bleeders. Hopefully Eric at HiPerfAuto can ship me rebuilt units tomorrow and I can get them on this weekend.

For the most part, I resolved the running like dog **** issue. There was no oil in the dashpots. I am going to re-tune the car this weekend, and I also bought a set of plugs to eliminate the possibility of crappy old plugs. I should probably check the points gap too :omg:

Enjoy some single muffler B20 D cam revs too!

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Looking good dude! Nothing wrong with a set of Virgos. I might have some spare center caps if you're interested.
 
The 142 is looking good on Virgos! Congrats on getting it on the road and good luck with the troubleshooting & tuning process.
 
The 142 is looking good on Virgos! Congrats on getting it on the road and good luck with the troubleshooting & tuning process.

Technically, we aren?t on the road yet. I?ve only driven it a mile on the road and then ****ed the brakes up. Hopefully Saturday will end in a long, spirited drive in the car.

Thanks! I like the silver/green contrast pf the wheels and body. They almost look correct for the car. It?ll look better once its buffed and waxed.
 
Today was a win, a fail (or four), and then another win.

Got outside at ~10ish, hacked off the remains of the old muffler and welded up some stuff to quiet down the now straight piped B20.
Rebuilt front calipers from HiPerf rolled in at 11:30 and had a good pedal by 1:00. My brother and I took the car 2 miles to the gas station and back and still had an intermittent misfire under load. I also determined that I certainly had some sort of coolant/heat management issue because 40mph on light throttle was almost pegging the temp gauge and the car was pretty sensitive temp-wise. After coming back from an excursion with the boss to a closing junkyard, I determined the issue was a combination of a collapsing upper hose and the tube disconnected from the coolant bottle.

Fresh plugs helped the misfire under load.

I'll get better pictures tomorrow.
 
Can you let me know what the width is on the outside from square bar to square bar? I'll ask RWC what it's correct for.


I got in touch with IPD, they confirmed it is for a 122 by checking it against the one that sits in there showroom. I can get you exact dims later.

We will have to get together one afternoon for a drive. I cant wait to see this thing on the road!
 
I got in touch with IPD, they confirmed it is for a 122 by checking it against the one that sits in there showroom. I can get you exact dims later.

We will have to get together one afternoon for a drive. I can't wait to see this thing on the road!

That explains why it looked narrow under the car! It definitely won't fit this thing then.

Absolutely!
 
I miss spoke.. I meant to say it?s for a 142, and not the 122.. :oops:

Hmmmm. Ok. Shoot me a text so we can talk turkey on that thing.

I guess I should post a real update on this thread.

Saturday was the first real drive in this car and I've been trying to force it into daily driver status since. The exhaust setup is pretty ****ty right now. I am using the stock header/downpipe (2" OD) with an adapter stepping it up into a 3" Thrush welded muffler, and then a 5' piece of 3" pipe. It's quieter inside than the original single blown out muffler, but outside the car is pretty obnoxious. I really don't want to shell out the extra dough for a full 2" setup. Would a resonator or glasspack quiet things down a little?

I am fighting a deceleration pop/backfire as well as an occasional partial throttle misfire. Under WOT, the car runs well on all 4 and pulls hard enough. I supposed I need to do a full tune up and pull the carbs down and clean them.

Last night, I tightened the fuel pump as I am currently missing the shim to limit fuel pressure as oil was leaking out. The pressure became so high that fuel would push past the float valve and shoot out of the float bowl vent on the front carb when running. I need to order one from VP tonight.

I'm not really thrilled with the brakes at the moment. The car stops really well when there is a high vacuum from the engine. Otherwise, the pedal is hard and there's almost no vacuum assist. The brake pedal is hard all the time, which I like. I suspect a different pad compound instead of the OE pads may also help this. What do I do? Add a one-way valve and vacuum ball from another car to improve the vacuum retention?

I started playing with this tonight:
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The OE brake compound is more than sufficient for a stock set up.
I'm almost positive there should be a check valve in the vacuum hose, there is on my 73. Do you have this?
Or, the booster could be leaking around the elbow fitting on the booster.
Your throttle shafts could be leaking and require bushings to be installed. It's been over 30 years since I've messed with any though, so I can't offer too much assistance.
Steve
 
The OE brake compound is more than sufficient for a stock set up.
I'm almost positive there should be a check valve in the vacuum hose, there is on my 73. Do you have this?
Or, the booster could be leaking around the elbow fitting on the booster.
Your throttle shafts could be leaking and require bushings to be installed. It's been over 30 years since I've messed with any though, so I can't offer too much assistance.
Steve

I'm sure the carbs could use a re-bush at this point, though I doubt that's solely responsible for my shoddy braking or "rabble rabble brap tat" on decel. I believe the stock check valve lives in the elbow. It's likely that rubber seal is leaking or the whole elbow is shot.
 
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