• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

HUB's 1968 122s Wagon Project

Thanks for the support guys. These are new copper washers. I did snug them up a little more the other day and will check them tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I'll try heating them... I wonder if work will let me run them through the furnace. Haha. I apologize for the late response. I'm trying to pull a cwdodson88 and buy a home.

Thanks,
 
HUB said:
Thanks for the support guys. These are new copper washers. I did snug them up a little more the other day and will check them tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I'll try heating them... I wonder if work will let me run them through the furnace. Haha. I apologize for the late response. I'm trying to pull a cwdodson88 and buy a home.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Good stuff! you just want them orange/red hot, not white, thats too far. Sometimes, just the sandpaper will do enough to seal them.

Good luck on the house!
 
cwdodson88 said:
NO WATER! Quenching them will tempter... air cool to anneal.
Click to expand...

Either way will work, have been using water for years, and my machinists handbook recommends water and so don't all the tool and die makers and machinists in my family.

I repair and have to straighten out dents in a lot of brass and copper parts on early cars that come thru the shop. Have been heating the materials until you can just see the first of the red color in the dark then quench with warm or cold water. It may temper it a bit but the material is more stable that way and less likely to crack, but it is still remains quite soft.

As I mentioned earlier it works well for me on copper gaskets.

A friend repairs and restores brass musicians horns and he has been doing it for 50-years and uses the same method. People send horns from around the world and he has never had any of the repaired areas crack.

Happy home buying - buy something if you can that does not need work as it cuts into your garage fun time.
 
Last edited:
cwdodson88 said:
Good stuff! you just want them orange/red hot, not white, thats too far. Sometimes, just the sandpaper will do enough to seal them.

Good luck on the house!
Click to expand...

Thanks. Look forward to posting pictures of the garage for everyone. Finished off with heat and AC :zeeall:
 
Good Evening,

Got the new diff cover in. Installed and filled the rear end.
GaWFcNpl.jpg


Old cover:
ohhI9iCl.jpg


New cover installed:
vc5odRhl.jpg


Thanks,
 
Last edited:
Good Evening,

Worked on the rear lines today. I appreciate everyone's help. Will find out if it worked tomorrow... Not much to report... Still working on little things. Still need to find carpet and different seats for the front.

Thanks,
 
Could care less about the build.

Sorry to see you lost a Newfie. We lost our landseer way to early but have another blackie to take over the couch.

Good luck with car also.
 
Morning everyone,

Appears the fix for the rear brakes worked. Had a small leak at the junction box by the firewall. Fixed that. Seems good now.

Thanks,
 
Last edited:
Evening everyone,

Ordered a rim the other day to see if it would work for my setup. It appears the ford 8.8 rear shafts me again. lol. Don't know what I want to do. Finally find a rim a like, but I need a different offset for the rear. The front has one spacer on it (7.9mm). I really don't want to have a different offset for the rear.
Bfb8XnWl.jpg


SP3gdX8l.jpg


MNk8TvXl.jpg


tGM5X4El.jpg


27K5dErl.jpg


mDbNXpcl.jpg


Thanks,
 
Last edited:
You sort of have to have a different offset for the rear. Unless you just use some high offset wheels and use a spacer in the front. That's what I'll have to do.
 
Short of narrowing the axle, only option is to get the lower offset. They look good though. Don't go crazy with spacers to match up the front... You get into a lot of trouble that way with scrub and whatnot
 
You have tricky rear fenders to pull/ roll. There's a spot at the rearmost corner of the backdoor that has 3 panels coming together that you'd need to grind/cut in order to pull/roll them out.
 
I was going to use ford 17" police interceptor wheels on my 1st 122 project. Not sure what the offset was but they seemed to fit pretty good. I traded that set to Andrew. Don't know if he ever tried them with his 8.8 set up

133200727.jpg
 


That's to bad, those are nice looking wheels.

This may help a bit - the 7" wide rear wheel on my wagon w/a stock rear end has 4-inches of back spacing and 3-inches of offset. The very outer edge of the rim is 5/8" inside of the inner edge of the fender opening.

With a 205 tire the very widest portion of the side wall is 5/8" inside of the outer edge of the fender at the top of the wheel and there is no rubbing w/out rolling the fenders with original springs sagged about 1.5-2" from when new.

Assuming you like this look measure the width of the stock rear end and subtract it from the width of the Ford rear end and the divide by two. Add that amount to the 4" back spacing of the wheel above to find out what your back spacing measurement will need to be, which will also give you less offset. Look here to see where the wheel and tire sit on the car.

Easier to go to here, and work everything off of your hub flange to get your wheels exactly where you want them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top