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Old 08-22-2007, 02:13 PM   #1
the poi
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Default 960 IRS II Rear Coilovers Part 1: Boy, I sure hope this works

Step one: Buy two QA1 Proma Stars. One DR5855B, and one DR5855BP. They're 5" stroke, single adjustable. It may be possible to fit a longer shock--I can't get a perfect measurement, but compressed height is somewhere around 12", so I went shorter to be on the safe side. Get some CO springs. The narrower the better, the only sketchy thing about all this is the spring clearance.

Step two: Buy 0.006 thick (or whatever) brass shim stock. Buy two 80mm M12x1.75 bolts (8.8 at least, obviously). Buy two nice thick fender washers that either come with a ~11.8mm hole in the middle, or one small enough you can drill out to that size. And that's it!

You're buying one poly version and one bearing version because you're gonna have to do some swapping. Swap around the bushings until you have bearings at the top, and bushings on the bottom. At this point, it should like kinda like this:



At this point, you may be wondering why the top looks so hot hot hot. Well I'll tell you.

Your poly-bushing shock came with some steel bushings. Cut the 1/2" hole ones in half. Sand/grind/use magic, to shorten them as needed.

Shim stock time. Cut a strip about 54.8mm wide, and "long enough". About 3" is what you need if you're using 0.006 shim stock. Roll it up around a 1/4" extension. Then, slide it into the upper bearing mount. If you haven't figured it out by now, we're killing two birds with one stone: bushing 1/2" hole out to the M12 mounting bolt, as well as making a continuous cylinder that we can fit our spacers on.

So now, slide your spacers onto the shim stock. Grind/sand/conjure demons until the total length of your fancy looking upper mount is "big enough". 54.8m worked for me pretty well. Now, it'll look like this:





Yay!

This is pretty much all you would have to do, if you had 2"OD springs. But since we're rolling on 3.5" springs, pull out some vice grips, and angle grinder, and The Convincer brand BFH.

Drop the subframe (it's 4 bolts, quit whining). Remove the front subframe perch things. They look like this, before going nuts with the angle grinder:



You want it to look like this:



And work on the inner lip of the spring perch to get more clearance. You could probably lop the entire spring perch off, but it makes it a little stronger connecting to those two rear bolts. And anyway, it's now completely out of the way. The other problem is the car.

Which I forgot to take pictures of. Oops! Anyway, flare the unibody pinch out a bit in the area of the shock well (this will make sense when looking at it). Then, hammer the living **** out of the "lip" in the shock well thats closest to the outside of the car. Again, this makes sense looking at it. We're making spring clearance on the outside side.

Now, go nuts. Oo, forgot a step. At some point, remove the swaybar. Impossible to load the shocks otherwise. So ya, shove em up there, bolt in the top. Put a jack under the control arm, and jack it up until you can slide the shock onto the lower mount. Slide in the 80mm bolt you got with the fender washer, and crank it down. The cranking makes the 3/4" hole a snug fit on the 18mm stub. I have no idea if this is either wise or safe. Looks like this though:



When you're done, it all looks like this:



Badical!


On 80lb 12in springs, "snugged" at free length (about an inch above the the end of the threads), ride height is:



Bout an inch and a half clearance from bump stops (). So I'll crank it up an inch and let you guys know if any of this worked.

Last edited by the poi; 02-15-2008 at 02:28 AM..
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Old 08-22-2007, 02:21 PM   #2
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You must be failing school if you have time to do this
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Old 08-22-2007, 02:23 PM   #3
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You must be failing school if you have time to do this
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Old 08-22-2007, 02:32 PM   #4
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80#? Jesus that's soft.

Should plant the rears pretty well though!
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Old 08-22-2007, 02:41 PM   #5
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Nice! Though why such insanely soft springs? Looking at it, because the shock is forward of the axle shaft (which is approximately the center line of the wheel), the wheel rate of those springs is probably like 60lbs. Though I'll laugh if stock is softer.
Looks like a decent compromise of travel while keeping the nice flat wagon floor, which looks to be the whole point of the MK2 IRS.

Edit: Why is everything so crusty? My cali 81 240 is just greasy, but not rusty at all.
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Old 08-22-2007, 03:12 PM   #6
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80#? Jesus that's soft.

Should plant the rears pretty well though!
OHHHHH. I kinda forgot about that slightly important detail.

This may "only work" on Nivo cars! The composite leaf is still in place, with it's nebulus spring rate (which I could, for the life of me, not determine). The 80lb spring is in addition to the normal spring.

For non nivo cars, the spring will maintain the stock ride height. Increasing the spring rate would reqire raising the car with the CO springs enough so the spring rate doesn't suddenly change on droop.

I don't think it'd be wise to remove the stock leaf ever--the "front springs" are mounted inside the lever arm, and only in single shear on the bottom, and a sheet-metal "cup" at the top. I'm pretty sure a high rate spring and no leaf would annihilate something.


In any event.

Highly ****ing mother**** the car doesn't handle like a tugboat any more sweet jesus christ.



edit:// The crust: the back end of this car was under-water at some point in it's life. The CD changer in the back "pocket" had mud in it. The interior is fine, so I think they drove through 18" or so of water or something.
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Old 08-22-2007, 03:57 PM   #7
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Sweet, well that makes more sense. Glad to hear they are working well. How much did the shocks set you back?
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Old 08-22-2007, 04:07 PM   #8
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nice mod.
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Old 08-22-2007, 04:20 PM   #9
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nice mod.
+1, this is TB

are you sure the lower shock bolt is strong enough? its only at single shear load, not ideal.
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Old 08-22-2007, 04:56 PM   #10
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+1, this is TB

are you sure the lower shock bolt is strong enough? its only at single shear load, not ideal.
Well, it is only holding a little bit of weight. And I didn't picture it very well--the lower mount is an 18mm OD protrusion out of the arm (which in turn, is a fully welded cylinder). The bolt just holds the shock onto the protrusion. It's as strong as you're going to get in single shear. It's probably just as strong as the 12mm double shear in sheetmetal up top.

Shocks and springs were $430. Coulda saved about $60 if I went with heavier springs.

In any case, made it to LA without flinging it off a cliff, and it's fantastic. I really need to do the front now so i can start tuning it.
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Old 09-05-2007, 01:43 AM   #11
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Finally took pictures of the "lip" inside. You can theoretically hammer them flat, but my 170lb springs (upgrading from the 80s...) are a little close, so I just buzzed the lip off completely with my angle grinder.





Everything looks good after about... 1000 miles on em?
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Old 09-05-2007, 02:00 AM   #12
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hows it handle? and ride?
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Old 09-05-2007, 02:03 AM   #13
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hows it handle? and ride?
poor on both accounts the fronts are not stiff enough and the struts are just not valved for the cut springs I have in there. It was an enormous improvement over the blown Nivos that I had before. I'll have Koni sports to install in the front this weekend, as well as coleman sleeves and 450s. That up front and the 170s in the back should get me off to a good start in the handling department...
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Old 09-05-2007, 10:17 PM   #14
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Are the rear shocks capable of handling such low spring rates well? I guess 170s aren't nearly as bad as 80lb'ers, but still.

And still, SWEET!

Chris, you're awesome, which in turn has made your 960 awesome. Better than awesome. Have you already been on the main front page as an article? If not, it won't be too much longer before you are... And damn well deserving, as well.
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Old 09-06-2007, 12:11 AM   #15
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i think it's not so bad since the actual wheel rate is different than the spring rate
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Old 09-06-2007, 12:48 AM   #16
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So the total price for the rear was in the 500 dallar range?

Love how it looks, The bottom shock mount looks like it could use to be boxed in. Hopefully one day, I can get done with this drafting degree and get some flow to build some bad ass stuff like you build.

Keep it up.

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Old 09-06-2007, 01:21 AM   #17
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i think it's not so bad since the actual wheel rate is different than the spring rate
Gooooood point!
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Old 09-06-2007, 08:59 AM   #18
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I don't know how I missed this thread before. The rear looks positively ORGASMIC. Hopefully the koni's up front do some good.
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Old 09-06-2007, 09:38 AM   #19
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The rear looks positively ORGASMIC.

...
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Old 09-06-2007, 12:16 PM   #20
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So the total price for the rear was in the 500 dallar range?
Eh, more like 400. It's pretty thrifty.
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Old 09-11-2007, 04:15 PM   #21
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I guess this is mostly rear suspension, so it'll go here. Part of the "eh, I guess I might as well" school of thought:





And although not related to rear suspension really much at all, here's more goo:



We'll see how long that holds up. Ideally, it should hold up indefinitely, seeing as that shouldn't be seeing much flex at all. If it pops out, something terribly odd is happening under the car.
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Old 09-13-2007, 08:05 PM   #22
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And although not related to rear suspension really much at all, here's more goo:



We'll see how long that holds up. Ideally, it should hold up indefinitely, seeing as that shouldn't be seeing much flex at all. If it pops out, something terribly odd is happening under the car.
Well this is certainly doing something. The car has a wicked shimmy at about 70mph. Am I right in thinking that the stiff CSB should be fine if the DS is very well balanced? Meaning, before I gooed it, the vibration was worked out by the very flexible support? Because I'd much rather just get the DS balanced then figure something else out to keep the driveshaft from wandering about under the car...
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:24 PM   #23
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could be a bad bearing too....can you be any more specific about the shimmy that is wicked?
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Old 09-14-2007, 03:00 AM   #24
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could be a bad bearing too....can you be any more specific about the shimmy that is wicked?
It just vibrates like hell at 70 mph. It didn't before I gooed up the CSB. It was perfectly smooth actually. When i pulled the driveshaft to do the fuel lines though, I found the middle u-joint was contacting the tunnel. Although...I don't know if thats recent. I'll probably just remove the urethane and try it out--I put some tape on the tunnel where the mark was. If it still does it, I'm not quite sure what to do...
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Old 02-13-2008, 01:53 PM   #25
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OHHHHH. I kinda forgot about that slightly important detail.

This may "only work" on Nivo cars! The composite leaf is still in place, with it's nebulus spring rate (which I could, for the life of me, not determine). The 80lb spring is in addition to the normal spring.

For non nivo cars, the spring will maintain the stock ride height. Increasing the spring rate would reqire raising the car with the CO springs enough so the spring rate doesn't suddenly change on droop.
I'm not sure the non-nivo cars will maintain stock height. Pretty sure my car's rear shocks are toast and the rear end sags a decent amount. I should detatch them and put the car on the ground to see.

As for the vibration in the rear - have you cleaned/greased the 'CV joint' on the rear part of the driveshaft?
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