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Old 09-27-2018, 12:14 PM   #26
MikeSr.
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Yeah- gonna look for fan/ shroud combo to fit.
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Old 09-27-2018, 12:35 PM   #27
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I had my radiator custom built when I did my V8 swap 30 years ago. Heavy duty 4 core with brass tanks, the core opening is as big as the opening on the car,17"H X 24"W, 2 12" pusher fans with a thermo switch and a manual override, I run a 180 thermostat to get enough heat in the motor,and a remote expansion tank. Never ever had a cooling issue. The price in 1988,$ 375.00.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:37 AM   #28
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After talking to JohnMc at the Mountain Meet, I ordered the LOJ heater bypass valve. I think that no flow through the heater hoses when the heater valve is off is contributing to my cooling issues.
Thanks, John!
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:57 AM   #29
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Running into temp issues with the LS- my fans have no shroud. I vacuum-filled to purge air, still goes to 210 while idling.of course this was in 100* ambient temps.This is with NOS 240 diesel radiator. I have clearance issues with single 940 fan, so I am running twin 12” Mishimoto fans. I am installing a 160* thermostat and want to get some kind of shroud. Maybe fans with more cfm.
Lower temp t'stat won't solve the problem - might buy you a bit more time before temp rises. If the system won't reject enough heat to keep it below 210F, how is it going to reject the additional heat needed to keep things at 160F? Issue is likely not enough air flow as mentioned above. Once that's solved you'll find out if the stock rad has enough capacity to deal with the extra thermal load.
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Old 10-02-2018, 12:39 PM   #30
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I’m pretty sure the NOS diesel radiator will work. That LOJ valve should solve some of my issues- apparently with no flow through the heater hoses, the water pump cavitates and causes overheating. I talked to some hot rod guys who recommended the 160* thermostat, even suggesting drilling a couple of 1/8” holes to bleed air. Saw a ‘69 Camaro with this setup and a huge BeCool radiator with dual fans. Owner says even with this setup, gets to 210* idling in traffic. His motor was iron block- my aluminum block should cool better. Gonna look for a Lincoln MkVIII or Mercedes C class fan=4000 cfm.
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Old 10-02-2018, 03:53 PM   #31
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With a 187F t'stat (oem LS3) at the engine inlet, mine sits right at 196F (head temp sensor) as long as I'm moving fast enough to keep the fans off. If the fans have to come on, it sits right at 203F (fan control point on mine) regardless of load/speed/ambient/ac-on or off. If you have enough fan and enough rad capacity -- temps should be controlled by the t'stat and the fan control set point. I used a couple of Dorman T's to create a small (1/8") bypass for the t'stat. That's mainly an issue on cold start to warm up -- once at operating temp, it has no impact.

FWIW - I use the fully shrouded SPAL dual 11" fan set up. 15 years now. About as "thin" as these set ups get. Moves plenty of air. OEM supplier to many. And doesn't pull nearly as many amps at full speed as the Mark VIII will. If your rad is new - then this is probably not the issue. But Testpoint had overheating problems with his 5.0L and diesel radiator. Turned out the old diesel unit had about the bottom third non-functioning due to deposits. Re-cored - solved the problem.

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Old 10-02-2018, 06:20 PM   #32
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Yeah- my radiator is NOS. I tried the dual Spal fans, but had a clearance issue. I might try a 16” slim brushless fan if I can’t find a MkVIII.

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Old 10-02-2018, 06:44 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeSr. View Post
After talking to JohnMc at the Mountain Meet, I ordered the LOJ heater bypass valve. I think that no flow through the heater hoses when the heater valve is off is contributing to my cooling issues.
Thanks, John!
I was gonna say the ls overheats when you have the heater control valve on cold
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:33 PM   #34
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I tried the dual Spal fans, but had a clearance issue.
I feel your pain - when I had the 5.0L in mine, had about a credit-card's-width clear between idler pulley and one of the fan motors. Solved that with the LS using Corvette pulley spacing - got a good 2"-2.5" clear on this one.
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Old 10-03-2018, 10:25 AM   #35
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I was gonna say the ls overheats when you have the heater control valve on cold
mine doesn't, what are yall talkin' bout
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Old 10-03-2018, 10:41 AM   #36
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I certainly have no direct experience with it (yet), but I've just read that the LS needs coolant flow through the heater piping. Because otherwise, hot coolant might not get to the thermostat (or at least not very well) if it's closed all the way.

Mostly an issue (I've heard) on initial warmup.
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:00 PM   #37
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And tons of folks have no bypass at all and report no problems at all. Whatever issues it might cause are not universal. I put one on mine simply because the factory saw fit to do it - good enough for me.
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Old 10-03-2018, 01:31 PM   #38
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A modest/small hole in the thermostat probably works about as well. The thermostat is just stuck out in the waterpump, not in close contact with the head or block. If it's not moving coolant *at all*, it just has to slowly heat up by conduction, out from the head, over to the side, to the thermostat.


Actually, drilling a little hole is also said to be a good idea to get air/steam out of the system as well, plus it probably does about the same job in keeping coolant flowing by the thermostat when it's closed. And probably less of a hassle than trying to fit some sort of recirculating valve into the heater system.

It probably also encourages a much more even warmup. Volvo thermostats open a passageway between the two sides of the cooling system when they're shut. So coolant circulates around under pressure from the pump, inside the block. From the areas that get hot soonest to the ones that don't.

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Old 10-03-2018, 02:58 PM   #39
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I may have drilled a hole, but I fo sho didn't put a coolant bypass on it. Then again, iirc the heater valve that I'm using doesn't fully seal anyway because it's a cheap piece of ****--that doesn't leak. so... who knows. bleeding the system is a pain in the ass fo sho though.
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Old 10-03-2018, 05:16 PM   #40
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Well, my heat problem may be a combination of air, heater hose flow restriction and inadequate fans. I raised the front end and cracked the steam lines until coolant came out. No change.Then I got a vacuum filler and tried to get the air vacuumed out. No change. Next will try the bypass valve, then a bigger fan/shroud.
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Old 10-03-2018, 05:44 PM   #41
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mine doesn't, what are yall talkin' bout
Well over heat over heat, what I should have said mine always runs hotter when I have the dial on cold. Like about 205 sometimes after sitting in traffic for a long time. But move the dial slightly off cold and it runs 180 on the nose. May just be my car. I dunno
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:50 PM   #42
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I have no problems with not needing a bypass. I have no problem with my engine running around 204º. These engines dont mind running at the temp and modern engines are made to run hotter.
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Old 10-04-2018, 08:12 PM   #43
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IIRC what the folks at PSI Conversions told me, the 08 Corvette ECU I'm using turns fans (2) on/off at 220F/226F and 226F/232F. So, at least in the Corvette application, if I wasn't moving fast enough to have sufficient airflow to allow the t'stat to be "in control", the factory would have me running coolant temps in the 225-235F range. I use a separate PWM controller -- but operating temps in the 200F-210F range are significantly cooler than what these engines saw in their factory application.
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Old 10-04-2018, 08:45 PM   #44
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I’m using the Flexalite fan controller.
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Old 10-04-2018, 09:37 PM   #45
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IIRC what the folks at PSI Conversions told me, the 08 Corvette ECU I'm using turns fans (2) on/off at 220F/226F and 226F/232F. So, at least in the Corvette application, if I wasn't moving fast enough to have sufficient airflow to allow the t'stat to be "in control", the factory would have me running coolant temps in the 225-235F range. I use a separate PWM controller -- but operating temps in the 200F-210F range are significantly cooler than what these engines saw in their factory application.
Mine was set from the factory to come on at 196º slow speed then 203º high speed fan with my 960 e-fan
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Old 10-04-2018, 10:17 PM   #46
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Mine was set from the factory to come on at 196º slow speed then 203º high speed fan with my 960 e-fan
What ECU?
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Old 10-04-2018, 10:58 PM   #47
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What ECU?
04' avalanche
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