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Old 10-07-2018, 09:56 PM   #26
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?


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Old 10-07-2018, 10:12 PM   #27
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Dual circuit ? Plus one outlet ?



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Old 10-07-2018, 10:21 PM   #28
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Old 10-07-2018, 10:21 PM   #29
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It’s $89 plus $20 in adapters unless you need lines

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Old 10-07-2018, 10:27 PM   #30
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Old 10-07-2018, 10:31 PM   #31
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And Brake Proportioning Valve $14.49 at PnP.

For whatever flavor of OE your warm little heart desires ...

I rest my case.
Free at the bottom of said car in nearest shopping mall
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Old 10-07-2018, 10:34 PM   #32
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Old 10-07-2018, 10:35 PM   #33
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Just make sure you get the right fittings.

Dykes with adjustable pliers is all you need
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Old 10-07-2018, 10:40 PM   #34
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Old 10-08-2018, 12:40 AM   #35
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Ya the Toyota thing is pretty clever design, IN THEORY not only does it account for the static load carried, it theoretically adjusts in real time as the axle bias changes under hard braking.



True but my point stands [at least I think it does] that a shrewd recombining of various OE junk piles can outperform a bunch of store boughten racing stuff not only dollar for dollar but in actual real world usage.
Ken, both in the above and in the description of how the really quite stupid short term fad that ATE convinced Volov BMW and BMC to use, you have too much faith in the descriptions of how it works--in theory..
In actual practice all the cutesy adjustable automatic bulls!t limited OEM type crap rarely work or work for long before they cease working...and for these car were talking 30= years ago..
In money terms it costs more to fawk around sdearching for some "trick' combination of old rusty junk that didn't work anyway, that to scrap that sh!t and replace with a simple in-line limiter---for $34.96


When I say it was a short term fad, the proof is Volvo themselves didn't bother with the complicated junk on their very next project, didn't use it across the whole product like just on 240s for a short while.
It is not sacred cow.

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Old 10-08-2018, 01:50 AM   #36
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I have 2 calipers in the back with each additional being controlled by a separate Volvo brake lever

Op post pictures of your whip
I dont currently have access to internet, and it seems to be impossible to upload photos directly off my phone to the site. It's lowered about 3 inches, gutted, welded diff, spherical adjustable rear end components, welded shut all the trim holes and painted the car brown. It's an na aw70 so it's nothing special, but I plan to v8 swap it after I finish settling the suspension and brakes. Bought the car stock and in pretty decrepit condition about 4 months ago. You can find it pretty easily on the wheel well website I think.
Thank you for your opinions, I'll be spending a bit more time looking at what I'm dealing with
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Old 10-08-2018, 02:41 AM   #37
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I dont currently have access to internet, and it seems to be impossible to upload photos directly off my phone to the site. It's lowered about 3 inches, gutted, welded diff, spherical adjustable rear end components, welded shut all the trim holes and painted the car brown. It's an na aw70 so it's nothing special, but I plan to v8 swap it after I finish settling the suspension and brakes. Bought the car stock and in pretty decrepit condition about 4 months ago. You can find it pretty easily on the wheel well website I think.
Thank you for your opinions, I'll be spending a bit more time looking at what I'm dealing with

Let me try to understand: you're going to finish setteling the suspension, and then drop in some big stinkin heavy V8..

Now I've done a little suspension work and a lot for cars that are supposed to go sideways both left and right.. One of the key points in suspension is what does this end weigh? and What's the available travel?
Then you choose springs, then you choose damping to control springs..

Sounds like you're going to do the springs and damper in the "settleling"
Then add a couple of hundred pounds on one end..

To which I have to ask: wot da fuq?

And a V8? which? Why? What clutch, gearbox and rear axle you going to put behind that?

Why not keep the Volvo 4 and turbochage the hell out of it? I see plenty of 2.4 240 Nissans getting pretty sideays with a KA24DE in them or even SR20DET...at a mere 2,0..
They seem to do just fine...That's a sh!t-ton easier (and lighter and leaves the excellent f/r balance of the car intact.)
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Old 10-08-2018, 03:03 AM   #38
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John he has no internet
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Old 10-08-2018, 10:09 AM   #39
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John he has no internet


Ok, I'm out, another waste of time thread.

Good luck kid, post picture when your brown V8 automatic uncontrollable drift Volvo is finished.
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Old 10-08-2018, 10:39 AM   #40
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Out.

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Old 10-08-2018, 05:23 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by John V, outside agitator View Post
Let me try to understand: you're going to finish setteling the suspension, and then drop in some big stinkin heavy V8..

Now I've done a little suspension work and a lot for cars that are supposed to go sideways both left and right.. One of the key points in suspension is what does this end weigh? and What's the available travel?
Then you choose springs, then you choose damping to control springs..

Sounds like you're going to do the springs and damper in the "settleling"
Then add a couple of hundred pounds on one end..

To which I have to ask: wot da fuq?

And a V8? which? Why? What clutch, gearbox and rear axle you going to put behind that?

Why not keep the Volvo 4 and turbochage the hell out of it? I see plenty of 2.4 240 Nissans getting pretty sideays with a KA24DE in them or even SR20DET...at a mere 2,0..
They seem to do just fine...That's a sh!t-ton easier (and lighter and leaves the excellent f/r balance of the car intact.)
I'm replacing all the bushings and such first with spehericals and poly. It's on cut springs from the previous owner. The front spring sleeves are shortened and most of that needs to be replaced further down the line. The car driving straight without slop and having adequate brakes takes precedent over power for me right now. I have already stitch welded the entire car and done a lot of small fabrication, I'm not sure why there are so many people trying to shoot me down like I have no idea what I'm doing. An aluminum block v8 with only the essential items is not really that heavy..
The original rear end should support up to around 400hp from what I've researched, especially considering that I wont have grippy tires in the rear. Will likely find an LS of sorts as much as some of you may hate the idea, fab mounts and do what I need to make it fit, use the donor ecu and harness, then run my own hacky little custom cluster and have a one piece driveshaft made. I also own an s13 I've been building for about 6 years that has a huge amount of money in it with an SR, I'm not a 4 cylinder hater but just want cheap reliable NA power out of this car so I can beat the hell out of it with minimal complexity.
Regardless, I was just curious to make sure I had the right idea in mind for my proportioning valve to use as a makeshift line lock. I picked this chassis because it was cheap and unique, as well as being sturdy and having a nice wheelbase. I'm not concerned about the difficulty or amount of work or will require to make the car effective, I was already aware of the challenge and looking forward to it for this build. https://wheelwell.com/Volvo/240/vehicles
The brown car on that listing is the piece of **** in question
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Old 10-08-2018, 07:10 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by StreetForged View Post
I'm replacing all the bushings and such first with spehericals and poly.

It's on cut springs from the previous owner.
The front spring sleeves are shortened and most of that needs to be replaced further down the line.
The car driving straight without slop and having adequate brakes takes precedent over power for me right now.

I have already stitch welded the entire car
and done a lot of small fabrication,

I'm not sure why there are so many people trying to shoot me down like I have no idea what I'm doing.


An aluminum block v8 with only the essential items is not really that heavy..

The original rear end should support up to around 400hp from what I've researched, especially considering that I wont have grippy tires in the rear.

Will likely find an LS of sorts as much as some of you may hate the idea, fab mounts and do what I need to make it fit, use the donor ecu and harness, then run my own hacky little custom cluster and have a one piece driveshaft made.
I also own an s13 I've been building for about 6 years that has a huge amount of money in it with an SR, I'm not a 4 cylinder hater but just want cheap reliable NA power out of this car so I can beat the hell out of it with minimal complexity.


Regardless, I was just curious to make sure I had the right idea in mind for my proportioning valve to use as a makeshift line lock. I picked this chassis because it was cheap and unique, as well as being sturdy and having a nice wheelbase. I'm not concerned about the difficulty or amount of work or will require to make the car effective, I was already aware of the challenge and looking forward to it for this build. https://wheelwell.com/Volvo/240/vehicles
The brown car on that listing is the piece of **** in question

This is why ^ up there...point after point just flat wrong..
And this:


Look, a lotta people here are anti-drift mindset.. I don't care as long as people are having good cheap fun..
But I do care when I see all the signs of yet another hack job that ends in death of a car, waste of time, waste of effort and sad people.

First: nothing unique about a 240 going sideways..Tens of thousands have been built, 100s of driftie 240s.. Nothing unique at all..
The mention of imagined "unique" is ALWAYS ALWAYS a bad sign..Always..
It says right away that a person is concerned with what he imagines the perception of others will be---rather than the actual functioning of the car/bike/whad-evar....
And when its wrong----as it nearly always is--everything has been built somewhere--and maybe is even common as sh!t someplace---(and 240s are and have been as long as cars have been going sideways)---it means the guy is in some fantasy world...and inevitably has been reading/talking to other equally ill-informed fan-bois...

And there's so many signs that's what you've been doing...
Example---the little useless blobs of "weld" all over the place...ONLY and SOLELY in the fan-boi world of driftie boys is that considered "stitch welding"...It isn't..
Lousy piccie but this is stitch welding..


This is a Ford Capri, normal stitch welding--normal reinforcing from chassi-leg to firewall>


Normal stitch-welding, normal link-boxes and normal towers welded in


Good welds 1/2" long every 1 1/2" or so..the little blobs are ONLY seen of driftie world--copying what they see in Japanese fapp-magazines...


The axle should be good..and it MIGHT be, but plenty of people twist the buggers off --and on there cars to with the same size axle shafts--Saabs, Xratties, BMW (! common!) on gravel.

But the main thing that shows unsound thinking, and is a CLEAR SIGN of lack of knowledge is the idea that you want a V8 to make power--power specifically to make the car accelerate and boil the hides and get sideways easily---and controllably..
This is simply immature/ignorant/ill-informed..

I hain't gonna waste too much time because that last bit there shows that you will argue and argue at a level which precludes you learning anything..so I'll just say this:

The way a car accelerates is down to a few factors..so for a given weight there's the motor, the gearbox and the final drive..
Motor makes power--torque---the gearbox multiplies that power...and the final drive multiplies it one more time..(and the tire diameter is overlooked in the equation but let's just say "given tire diameter")

You are relying on some motor to make a SH!T-TON of power.
Smarter guys say "What the motor doesn't do, the final drive does" >

You could skip all the silly Ellis-Juan V8 bullsh!t by just buying a short ring and pinion..
5.15 back axle ratio is typical for cars that have fairly hot 2,0 to 2,3 n.a. motors who want acceleration.. But a driftie guy on a short circuit could consider even shorter.

A near dead n.a. motor is going to be quick with 4,88, 5.15 or 5,35

Then you'll break the gearboxes, the halfshafts, and flex the fawk out of the bodyshell.

Don't get butt-hurt..
Learn to use the idea of paragraphs.

Stop listening to whoever you have been listening to and learn to research better.


PS: earlier today I watched a 27 minute vid of the local PNW driftie meet..
It was pretty bad...maybe 4 out of all the cars there did anything worth calling "drifting">all 240 Nissans..
I was watching to see how a local Mare-Kooooor Xratty boy was doing..
The one interesting thing was that EVERY SINGLE V8 powered car looked, went and sounded like sh!t and were ALL flat pitiful........exactly as I've seen before. Slow. all spun around the nose--and then made some smoke.
Lame

Why would YOU be different than ALL the other guys who have thought the same way?
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Old 10-08-2018, 07:21 PM   #43
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You need to do the front with long steering parts

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Old 10-08-2018, 07:40 PM   #44
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PS: earlier today I watched a 27 minute vid of the local PNW driftie meet..
Do you have a link of said PNW driftie meet?

You know, morbid curiosity.
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Old 10-08-2018, 07:44 PM   #45
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Do you have a link of said PNW driftie meet?

You know, morbid curiosity.
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Old 10-08-2018, 07:50 PM   #46
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I know you always desperately try to be funny, but... don't get it.
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Old 10-08-2018, 10:24 PM   #47
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This is why ^ up there...point after point just flat wrong..
And this:


Look, a lotta people here are anti-drift mindset.. I don't care as long as people are having good cheap fun..
But I do care when I see all the signs of yet another hack job that ends in death of a car, waste of time, waste of effort and sad people.

First: nothing unique about a 240 going sideways..Tens of thousands have been built, 100s of driftie 240s.. Nothing unique at all..
The mention of imagined "unique" is ALWAYS ALWAYS a bad sign..Always..
It says right away that a person is concerned with what he imagines the perception of others will be---rather than the actual functioning of the car/bike/whad-evar....
And when its wrong----as it nearly always is--everything has been built somewhere--and maybe is even common as sh!t someplace---(and 240s are and have been as long as cars have been going sideways)---it means the guy is in some fantasy world...and inevitably has been reading/talking to other equally ill-informed fan-bois...

And there's so many signs that's what you've been doing...
Example---the little useless blobs of "weld" all over the place...ONLY and SOLELY in the fan-boi world of driftie boys is that considered "stitch welding"...It isn't..
Lousy piccie but this is stitch welding..


This is a Ford Capri, normal stitch welding--normal reinforcing from chassi-leg to firewall>


Normal stitch-welding, normal link-boxes and normal towers welded in


Good welds 1/2" long every 1 1/2" or so..the little blobs are ONLY seen of driftie world--copying what they see in Japanese fapp-magazines...


The axle should be good..and it MIGHT be, but plenty of people twist the buggers off --and on there cars to with the same size axle shafts--Saabs, Xratties, BMW (! common!) on gravel.

But the main thing that shows unsound thinking, and is a CLEAR SIGN of lack of knowledge is the idea that you want a V8 to make power--power specifically to make the car accelerate and boil the hides and get sideways easily---and controllably..
This is simply immature/ignorant/ill-informed..

I hain't gonna waste too much time because that last bit there shows that you will argue and argue at a level which precludes you learning anything..so I'll just say this:

The way a car accelerates is down to a few factors..so for a given weight there's the motor, the gearbox and the final drive..
Motor makes power--torque---the gearbox multiplies that power...and the final drive multiplies it one more time..(and the tire diameter is overlooked in the equation but let's just say "given tire diameter")

You are relying on some motor to make a SH!T-TON of power.
Smarter guys say "What the motor doesn't do, the final drive does" >

You could skip all the silly Ellis-Juan V8 bullsh!t by just buying a short ring and pinion..
5.15 back axle ratio is typical for cars that have fairly hot 2,0 to 2,3 n.a. motors who want acceleration.. But a driftie guy on a short circuit could consider even shorter.

A near dead n.a. motor is going to be quick with 4,88, 5.15 or 5,35

Then you'll break the gearboxes, the halfshafts, and flex the fawk out of the bodyshell.

Don't get butt-hurt..
Learn to use the idea of paragraphs.

Stop listening to whoever you have been listening to and learn to research better.


PS: earlier today I watched a 27 minute vid of the local PNW driftie meet..
It was pretty bad...maybe 4 out of all the cars there did anything worth calling "drifting">all 240 Nissans..
I was watching to see how a local Mare-Kooooor Xratty boy was doing..
The one interesting thing was that EVERY SINGLE V8 powered car looked, went and sounded like sh!t and were ALL flat pitiful........exactly as I've seen before. Slow. all spun around the nose--and then made some smoke.
Lame

Why would YOU be different than ALL the other guys who have thought the same way?
May I ask your credentials that would suggest that a 5.0 rear end would be beneficial in drifting? You'll constantly be on the limiter in need of the next gear. The stock 3.8~ is pretty close to ideal, unless you're playing with b230 power. I want roughly 400 crank, I'm not sure where you get the impression that I'm living in some fantasyland when I want a cheap grassroots car I'm willing to build how I see fit.
Also, it's pretty immature to make assumptions of my intelligence or ability based on my profile picture on wheel well, immediately makes me want to disregard your opinion even further since you've proven yourself to be a kiddie. Look at my s13 build, I'd be interested to see if any of your cars can hold a candle to it.

I want basic power. I can waste a thousand or more dollars sourcing all the various parts necessary to put an m47 in this car and boost it, as well as tuning it for more power without some simple manual boost controller. Or I can spend near the same on a junkyard v8 and make the same power but more reliably, with more room to grow with time.

Sorry to **** on your parade because I'm not some purist, but I doubt anybody here who has contributed nothing but trash to the thread has done this, having concrete evidence that it's stupid when so many people have done swaps before me.

Give me an actual solid argument with credentials to make your point meaningful; I made this thread asking about proportioning valves. I dont care to hear some pep talk about weight distribution or to be insulted and assumed to be some stance boy looking for street cred because you worship the b230.

Edit: I should mention that the uniqueness doesnt suggest I'm the first to do it. Every grassroots event is cluttered with s-chassis, bmws, and mustang's, or at least around here. I wanted to avoid that route. You cant argue that the aftermarket for this chassis is far inferior to the aforementioned models I listed, and it adds more room for unique and one-off touches.

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Old 10-08-2018, 10:49 PM   #48
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I made this thread asking about proportioning valves.


I attempted to educate you about the brakes that are on your car so you could come to your own conclusions about what to do, but everybody's so busy talking about what they would do / you should do to build a drifter and shouting me down it got lost.

I will say this however, your initial plan is flawed because you do not understand how they work.


Good luck with your build,

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Old 10-08-2018, 11:03 PM   #49
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May I ask your credentials that would suggest that a 5.0 rear end would be beneficial in drifting? You'll constantly be on the limiter in need of the next gear. The stock 3.8~ is pretty close to ideal, unless you're playing with b230 power.


See?
Nobody have 3.8, and the have the incredible ability to shift gears when needed.

This:
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Originally Posted by StreetForged View Post
I want roughly 400 crank
And this:
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Originally Posted by StreetForged View Post
I'm not sure where you get the impression that I'm living in some fantasyland when
Is one of the most fantastic oxymoron I've seen so far.

Also, what happenend with the 200 hp idea?
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=342232

Noticed that some people also suggested to change the gearing?

I wonder why?

Do you?

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I want a cheap grassroots car I'm willing to build how I see fit.
Then stop typing, start building, come on, chop chop, post pictures and videos please.

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Also, it's pretty immature to make assumptions of my intelligence or ability based on my profile picture
Nope, your profile picture suggest that you are an ignorant kid, don't worry, ignorance can be fixed. WE are making assumption on your intelligence based on what you wrote here. It's called evidence based deduction, it could be apply to car building, you should try it dude, all the cool kids are doing it.

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on wheel well, immediately makes me want to disregard your opinion even further since you've proven yourself to be a kiddie.
John rarely gives opinions.

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Look at my s13 build, I'd be interested to see if any of your cars can hold a candle to it.

If only you were humble and curious enough to learn something.....

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I want basic power. I can waste a thousand or more dollars sourcing all the various parts necessary to put an m47 in this car and boost it
THIS proves you know nothing.

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Originally Posted by StreetForged View Post
as well as tuning it for more power without some simple manual boost controller.
Again, your assumption that you need MOAR PUWAH! Is simply more evidence to suggest your total inability or unwillingness to think.

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Or I can spend near the same on a junkyard v8 and make the same power but more reliably, with more room to grow with time.
Then get the chip off or your shoulder and do it.


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Sorry to **** on your parade because I'm not some purist, but I doubt anybody here who has contributed nothing but trash to the thread has done this, having concrete evidence that it's stupid when so many people have done swaps before me.
If you only knew who you are talking to. He is as far away from a purist as possible, he gave you good advices on this thread wich you are simply going to ignore because you are just one more ignorant kid passing by with great plans.


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Give me an actual solid argument with credentials to make your point meaningful
He's was building race engines long before you were born, know your place.

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I made this thread asking about proportioning valves.
Actually, they are reducing valves, not proportionning, but carry on.


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I dont care to hear some pep talk about weight distribution
So weight distribution is not important when you are trying to go sideways in a controlled manner?


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Originally Posted by StreetForged View Post
or to be insulted and assumed to be some stance boy looking for street cred because you worship the b230.
The only person worshipping anything here is you worshipping your internet avatar.


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Originally Posted by StreetForged View Post
Edit: I should mention that the uniqueness doesnt suggest I'm the first to do it.
That is what unique means.

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Originally Posted by StreetForged View Post
You cant argue that the aftermarket for this chassis is far inferior to the aforementioned models I listed, and it adds more room for unique and one-off touches.
What the **** are you talking about?
Even heard of Sweden?
Can you point it on a map whithout google?
They make parts there too, for serious ****.



Do you know how many kids like you we see per month?
It's not even funny anymore, so, if you really want to build this car, either shut up and give him a call and ask him questions, he will take time to share is knowledge if you are willing to learn or stop typing, go build your car like you want and prove us wrong.

I need to say that there is no animosity here, I'm not mad, simply tired of seeing the same thing over and over again.

Last edited by Vincent Gagnon; 10-08-2018 at 11:16 PM..
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Old 10-08-2018, 11:21 PM   #50
John V, outside agitator
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Location: Sleezattle, WA, USA
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Originally Posted by Vincent Gagnon View Post
Do you have a link of said PNW driftie meet?

You know, morbid curiosity.
It was some BaseFook link..Once closed it would be days of horrible sh!t to find it..
Besides it would send you into paroxysms..We'd be subjected to DAYS of


And if i was too look for it my poor daughter and wife would have to listen to


And I cannot subject the pauvre innocentes to that ^ for a such an embarrassment as that vid is..

Just imagine something a little worse than mid-pack Blubarus
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