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Pdx dl

Replace your shifter bushings and play around with the reverse lockout doohicky.

I've no idea how, but my old 242 felt fantastic to shift. Every 240 I've encountered since has been dreadful.
 
Replace your shifter bushings and play around with the reverse lockout doohicky.

I've no idea how, but my old 242 felt fantastic to shift. Every 240 I've encountered since has been dreadful.

Thx. I've had the bronze (?) bushings on my bench for two months now. Hopefully those will improve things.

The clutch engagement is high. Does that indicate a worn disc?
 
I almost hate to ask, but what shocks should I get? Two coils off the front, one off the rear. Likely add sway bars and braces down the road. Just a street car. Do I need to worry about "short stroke" or any of that?
 
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Interior is looking sharp: new passenger arm rest, new glove box, all the knobs and block off plates are there, rear cargo trim panels in place. Yeah baby!
 
Picked up some Swedish Fish...

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You have to go a lot lower before you need shortened struts.

Glad to hear it. I may take 1/2 coil more, but that's about it. Thinking about 215/55R16's all around on the Hydra's. Somebody said a 10mm spacer on the rear would center the tires in the wheel houses. Does that sound right? Any brand recommendations? Are these cars hub concentric? Do I need to put in the longer studs with the 10's? The rear axle is over a smidge, but the 205's have lots of room so I don't think I'll need the adjustable track bar.

Took my 18 year old daughter out to the mall parking lot to show her the manual transmission. She did great. First gear. Start / stop - repeat. Round and round we went. I think she'll do fine. Maybe after a few more runs we'll get her on the back roads in the higher gears. Saw a joke on FB with an image of a manual shifter with the tag line: "Millennial Anti-Theft Device." Pretty funny.

Money check: Kind of lost track to be honest. A few runs to the junk yard. Maybe add $100. Say $2300 altogether. Mostly been cleaning and catching up with the stuff I already have.

Parts are on order for the damage to the motorcycle. Probably going to sell her. Haven't ridden in nine months. Pay off some bills and... get some Swede parts. Like to do the T-belt and front seals / $100. Shocks would be nice / $500. Will need tires by fall / $500. B234F / no wait...



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Glad to hear it. I may take 1/2 coil more, but that's about it. Thinking about 215/55R16's all around on the Hydra's. Somebody said a 10mm spacer on the rear would center the tires in the wheel houses. Does that sound right? Any brand recommendations? Are these cars hub concentric? Do I need to put in the longer studs with the 10's? The rear axle is over a smidge, but the 205's have lots of room so I don't think I'll need the adjustable track bar.

Yes, you will need longer studs with a 10mm spacer to get minimum safe engagement on the wheel stud threads. People run them without doing longer studs...... but I would never do it. Hit a big bump and have the wheel fly off. Yuck. Ben Kaplan sells a nice set.

With the wider tires and the spacer, you will need to roll the trailing edge of the fender lip as well. NBD, but it will cut your tires if you don't.

The adjustable panhard bar would be a good idea. It solves the 'crab walk' that these cars get when lowered without it.
 
Yes, you will need longer studs with a 10mm spacer to get minimum safe engagement on the wheel stud threads. People run them without doing longer studs...... but I would never do it. Hit a big bump and have the wheel fly off. Yuck. Ben Kaplan sells a nice set.

With the wider tires and the spacer, you will need to roll the trailing edge of the fender lip as well. NBD, but it will cut your tires if you don't.

The adjustable panhard bar would be a good idea. It solves the 'crab walk' that these cars get when lowered without it.

Very cool. Thx! Don't want it to look like an old Nova going down the highway.
 
Mythbusters 240 The Sunken Rear Wheels...

The rear wheel inset is to make the car handle right going around a corner, and it looks to be only 7mm total or 3.5mm per side which 3mm spacers would take care of without the need for hard to find longer studs.

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But if you want your car to push in the turns in exchange for some perceived better 'look' go right ahead.

:e-shrug:
 
Further thoughts on handling (and I'm sure I'll get this wrong):

A few factors (among many) that may cause a vehicle to tend toward under steer:

  • Tire pressure lower in front than rear.
  • Not enough negative camber.
  • Too small of a front sway bar.
  • Locking differential.
I know books have been written on the subject. Decades ago I autocrossed a Celica. This is what I remember.


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I think redwood may have it backwards... at least from my readings of track widths and suspension geo... Taking a car with neutral track (F and R width the same), tires, spring weights and travel, etc being same and then narrowing the rear track you load the front suspension more under cornering creating understeer or push... at least thats what I've understood from the effects of track width changes on suspension geometry
 
Wider front track in relation to rear increases front grip and cornering ability assuming the front wheels are the ones that do most/virtually all of the steering...

Though even an entirely rear steered car would be less likely to resist cornering with a wider front track most probably. Corner initiation, roll center and coming back to straight as well as propensity to tip would be wildly different...
 
Poke dem wrong bolt pattern RWD wheels into your chain clearance, give up snow chains skiing and fast dirt roads,cut dem sprangs put your roll center half way to the Spratleys, induce a bunch of body roll skying your A arms, then spend a couple grand with uncle blkaplan trying to get it working reasonably well again.
 
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