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Old 05-27-2018, 09:02 PM   #101
PromiseRing
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Yeah have fun paying $30 for that 1ft fuel line.. at least you’ll never have to do it again.
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:05 PM   #102
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We’ll see how long this lasts. Like I said, I’ll be upgrading the pump/s eventually anyway, so it doesn’t have to last forever.
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:29 PM   #103
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Just wanted to make you aware of that potential issue down the road. I've had to replace the line in cars that used regular fuel line and by the time we did the work. The line was dissolved. lol. Small pieces of the braid from inside the line were all that was there.
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:37 PM   #104
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Did it start off of starting fluid?
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Old 05-27-2018, 11:31 PM   #105
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Never got around to it. I should be able to start it off of the fuel pumps tomorrow if all goes well!
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Old 05-28-2018, 03:42 PM   #106
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Finally tried the starting fluid, and it won't run on that. My constantly dying battery doesn't help, but after two or three attempts I couldn't start it.
Is it possible to put the distributor on backwards? Being that they slot is offset, I don't think you can, but I read that it's possible?
I feel that may be the reason it's not starting on fluid. Still doesn't explain my lack of fuel at the rail.

I started a new thread for that problem, but my lines seem to be clear and the pumps are running. I have probably 2-3 gallons of gas in the tank. Could that be the problem?
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Old 05-28-2018, 04:10 PM   #107
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Put more gas in. Maybe your intank hose is trashed and not sucking in fluid.

I don’t think you can put the dist in backwards, I wasn’t able to.
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Old 05-28-2018, 04:14 PM   #108
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In tank hose is good, just replaced it. I’ll put more gas in.
Good to know. I’ll have to play with the timing more.
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Old 05-29-2018, 01:45 PM   #109
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The story keeps changing, and now there are multiple threads, so it's difficult to understand what's really going on. You say you had power to the LH box, but you are saying you only have injector pulse if the relay is jumped. I don't see how that makes sense.

You say you have good spark, but claim it won't start on ether. That also doesn't make sense.

You say you hear pumps running, but no fuel. For that one I would just simply pull the outlet hose from the sender and jump power to the tank pump and see if fuel comes out. If you wanna check if it's wires backwards, reverse the polarity of your test equipment and see if fuel comes out.

It should run on starting fluid if your claims are accurate.
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Old 05-29-2018, 01:57 PM   #110
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^ see other thread lol, that’s what he did, and no fuel came out. I too suggested reversing polarity but i think he’s doing that now. Bypassing the relay and hearing things work suggests to me that the relay is bad?
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Old 05-29-2018, 04:50 PM   #111
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I don't see how it makes sense either, but that is the case. The noid light does not light with the WORKING relay, but it does when I jump it with the y-jumper and crank.

The only reason I can think of that it won't start on ether is the distributor is wet. The seal along the hood/firewall is damaged and leaking, and we've had ridiculous amounts of rain here lately, so I can't totally rule that out as a possibility.
Other than that, I have adjusted timing and that has made no difference.

Like PromiseRing said, I did that already. See my latest post on that thread for what I did about bypassing the in-tank fuel pump. https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=342303
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Old 05-30-2018, 03:13 PM   #112
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I think its time to take it to an indie shop
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Old 05-30-2018, 04:06 PM   #113
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^^^says a rookie that has clearly never spent a day in his life working in a shop.
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Old 05-30-2018, 05:36 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
^^^says a rookie that has clearly never spent a day in his life working in a shop.
ok
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Old 05-30-2018, 05:53 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lord_Athlon View Post
I think its time to take it to an indie shop
Never!
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Old 05-30-2018, 05:58 PM   #116
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Take that ignorant quote out of your sig. What do you think an Indy shop is would do to if they needed to look up a wiring diagram to figure it out? Google it? Ask on tbricks? I've tried quite a bit to help this guy out. Show what you know and try to help instead of just showing up to be a jerk.
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Old 05-30-2018, 06:14 PM   #117
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I now have fuel coming into the rail, but it still won't start. I have fuel, air, and spark. Haven't checked for compression, but I doubt it would magically lose compression since the last time I ran the car on ether.
Does anyone know if there is something inside of the distributor that could have been installed backwards? I really don't think so, but I guess it's possible.
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Old 05-30-2018, 06:15 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZVOLV View Post
I've tried quite a bit to help this guy out.
And I appreciate every bit of it!
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Old 05-30-2018, 11:04 PM   #119
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I don’t think you can install those head mounted distributors wrong. Make sure the engine is in time.
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Old 05-31-2018, 10:16 AM   #120
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Quote:
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I don’t think you can install those head mounted distributors wrong. Make sure the engine is in time.
Well, I'm referring to that offset slotted "key" that goes on the end and is held in by the pin. I think it's possible that I installed it backwards so the rotor is flipped 180 degrees from where it should be.
I'll pull it off and double check it today. Fortunately I have a spare distributor lying around somewhere.

I'm also going to pull off the timing cover and make sure the cam timing is right. I don't see any reason it wouldn't be, but crazier things have happened before.
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Old 05-31-2018, 10:21 AM   #121
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That’s what I’m saying, I don’t think you can install it backwards. Look at the back of the cam, the slots aren’t directly down the middle. They’re offset. I thought the same thing when trying to start this Regina car but I couldn’t install it 180 out. Check crank/cam timing.

I’m not 100% sure you can’t be 180 out, but either way it’s easy to time a head mounted car. All you need to do is make sure the little slot on the crank washer lines up with the line on the block. Then, make sure the dot on the cam gear lines up with the line on the timing cover. Don’t even need to touch the aux gear (though I do it anyway).

If the engine is mechanically in time, you can pull the dist cap and make sure the rotor is point to cylinder 1 at TDC. The rotor will be facing somewhat downwards to a contact point that leads to cylinder 1. Look at the inside of the dist cap and that will make more sense.

Here’s the crank washer.


And cam

Last edited by PromiseRing; 05-31-2018 at 10:40 AM..
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Old 05-31-2018, 04:30 PM   #122
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As I suspected, the distributor was backwards. The drive dog was put on backwards, so with cylinder 1 at TDC, the rotor was on cylinder 4.
Managed to get that stupid pin out after banging on it for hours, and now the pickup for the hall sensor is bent. I have another one, but it's pretty crusty... and I have to drive that damn pin out AGAIN.

This car better run after all this...
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Old 05-31-2018, 04:35 PM   #123
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Oh you meant the little thing that slides into the back of the cams slot? I didn’t know it could be removed! Glad you found it.
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Old 05-31-2018, 04:55 PM   #124
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Was the cam lining up with the TDC mark as well, or just the crank?
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Old 05-31-2018, 05:16 PM   #125
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Pop off the oil filler cap and see turn the engi e until the number one cam lobes are each pointed up about 45 degrees= number 1 TDC. Can't hurt to pull a plug and make sure piston is at the r
Top. Also camt hurt to check timing. And compression. Ok, now you're at number 1 known TDCcheck the rotor and make sure it's pointing to number 1 contact within the dist cap.

You smacked out the dowel on the dist at some point and took the key off!?

That's why I have the no start thread linked in my sig. We've been saying all along to run it on ether.
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