home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > maintenance & nonperformance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-11-2018, 11:01 PM   #1
ronisolomondds
Newbie
 
ronisolomondds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rochester, NY
Default Issue fitting the trans to my engine, 1996 Volvo 960

I recently removed the original engine from my '96 960 to replace it with one with 20k miles on it. (Factory reconditioned) I am reusing the original flex plate, torque converter, and transmission from my 960.

Now that the old engine is out, I am in the process of mounting the original transmission with the new motor. For some reason, the flex plate keeps hitting the back of the engine block and I am wondering if anyone has tips on refitting the engine with the transmission.

I have tried fitting the transmission two ways; once with the torque converter still attached to the flex plate, and a second way where the torque converter is seated inside the transmission bell housing, fitting the transmission is fitted to the back of the engine, then attaching the bolts through the flex plate to the torque converter.


Thanks in advance!
ronisolomondds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2018, 06:41 AM   #2
Lankku
Board Member
 
Lankku's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Finland
Default

The best way to install the transmission is with the torque converter. Torque converter might not be properly seated. You have to push and slightly wiggle it so that it goes all the way.
__________________
444 -55, 145 Express -71,
242 DL -80 (was 4.6l)sold, 245 -88 "B6284T" sold, 245 -90 "B6284T", 965 -93 B6304, V90 -98
Lankku is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2018, 08:01 AM   #3
HiSPL
Board Member
 
HiSPL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: College Station, TX
Default

There's 2 "clunks" when you seat the torque converter. Push in and twist "clunk" push in and twist some more "clunk". Then it's seated.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 240240 View Post
Beets taste like buttfeet.
HiSPL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2018, 09:39 AM   #4
2 old for this
Board Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Amarillo
Default

If you say the flex plate is hitting the back of the block maybe you forgot a spacer or ther is a different crank for different years. The only times I have delt with 960 engines is when I replace them with 4 cyls
2 old for this is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2018, 09:57 AM   #5
ronisolomondds
Newbie
 
ronisolomondds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Rochester, NY
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 old for this View Post
If you say the flex plate is hitting the back of the block maybe you forgot a spacer or ther is a different crank for different years. The only times I have delt with 960 engines is when I replace them with 4 cyls
You raise a good point, and I have read about this; both blocks have the same production date (1995) and neither had a spacer on the back of the flexplate.
ronisolomondds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2018, 10:30 AM   #6
wennstroma
Board Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Idaho
Default

When you install the torque converter into the transmission, there are two to three clunks before it is actually fully inserted into the bushing, pump, and stator. You have to support the weight of the converter while jiggling it up and down and rotating it to catch all of the different connections inside.

When it is not fully inserted, while wiggling it up and down, it will not have much play. When it is fully inserted, it will wobble up and down a little more. I never use the bellhousing bolts to force a trans onto an engine, and always check that the torque converter still spins freely when they are pushed together on the dowels before tightening anything. Start the bellhousing bolts by hand to help alignment, but don't tighten them until everything fits together freely.

If you have already bolted the trans to the motor, and the flexplate hit the block, the flexplate is probably now warped and the crank sensor will have problems getting a reliable signal off of it. (I've witnessed this multiple times before) It should be replaced with the other one you have if it hasn't been forced against the block too.

As far as I remember, none of the white blocks had a spacer behind the flexplate, that would only compound your issue. I haven't done any of that kind of work on one in years, so I may be wrong about whether any had spacers.

Last edited by wennstroma; 08-12-2018 at 10:39 AM.. Reason: Disclaimer
wennstroma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2018, 01:09 PM   #7
2manyturbos
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Monroe, OR USA
Default

There is no spacer on a 6 cylinder whiteblock. NEVER install an automatic transmission with the torque converter already bolted to the flex plate and NEVER pull the transmission into place with the bell housing bolts. When things are lined up properly, the transmission should easily slip into place. Pulling a trans into place with the bolts usually results in damage. Since you tried installing the trans with the converter already mounted to the flex plate, I would replace the pump seal. You may have damaged it trying to line things up. I never reinstall an automatic trans without replacing that seal anyway. They are only $5-$6 and you would hate to have to pull the trans sometime soon for something that cheap.
2manyturbos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2018, 04:30 PM   #8
dm245
Board Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Louisville,Ky
Default

I replaced the engine in my '96 960 a few months ago. Did not mess with the flex plate at all. But as far as the torque converter goes the converter does go in 2 or 3 steps sliding into the transmission itself. And if the converter is all the way home and the transmission is flush to the engine block,

You will be able to spin the converter with your finger to line up the converter to flex plate bolts.

If not the converter is not positioned all the way Into the transmission. And I'm wondering if you may have done damage to the transmission by trying to force it on using the bell housing bolts.

I'll say it again, with the converter properly positioned in the the transmission you will be able to simply spin the converter with your finger. When the transmission is flush to the block in its home position.
__________________
DAVE previous- 83-242 DL, 84-242t, 83-245t, 92-965, 94-965, 94-855, 95-945, 91-780, 98-V70XC, 95-964
present- 91-745, 96-964, 87-635CSi
dm245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2018, 04:44 PM   #9
ZVOLV
<Master Tech>
 
ZVOLV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
Default

Rookie move is to install the TC incorrectly and then slam the engine to it with the bolts. You will bend the flexplate and/or damage the TC/trans PUMP. I have done it. Learned that one the hard way.

There should be three clunks. Sometimes it feels like two. The toughest part can be getting the TC to line up with the two pump tangs. Spin as you push it in. And you should feel it clunk into place. It may also help to visually locate the two tangs and notches visually and get them aligned a bit before shoving.

There is also a spec for TC depth.
__________________
No Start Thread
ZVOLV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2018, 01:43 PM   #10
freevolvos
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: hillpoint
Default

is the flexplate backwards?
freevolvos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2018, 02:26 PM   #11
dm245
Board Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Louisville,Ky
Default

I've noticed something watching some of these car shows that shows possibly an easier way to engage the converter than doing it laying flat on the floor.

Try standing the transmission up resting on the tail shaft. Spin the converter until it drops all the way down.

I probably spent 15 minutes the last time I did it flat on the ground. After seeing it done standing up it looked like it only took a couple of revolutions of the converter to drop in. I'll certainly give it a try next time I have to do it.
dm245 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2018, 03:05 PM   #12
Broke4speed
Board Member
 
Broke4speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Marionville, Ontario, Canada
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dm245 View Post
I've noticed something watching some of these car shows that shows possibly an easier way to engage the converter than doing it laying flat on the floor.

Try standing the transmission up resting on the tail shaft. Spin the converter until it drops all the way down.

I probably spent 15 minutes the last time I did it flat on the ground. After seeing it done standing up it looked like it only took a couple of revolutions of the converter to drop in. I'll certainly give it a try next time I have to do it.
That's how I did mine, and I assure you, it's still a pain. It took a couple tries before that last satisfying 'thunk' happened.
__________________
1984 B6304S/AW30-40 w/Poi-Shift.
Broke4speed is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:02 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions Inc.