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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

My current thoughts are to swap in a new HG, and to actually go ahead and get an L33 and a CD009 and stick those together and start actively getting more ready for that swap.
 
Yep. I was sort of half planning on doing it NA for a bit, then adding a turbo, but why bother setting up the exhaust without a turbo? I know damn well I'm going to put one on it anyhow.
 
plus you'll just be mad that it's only got like 350 hp and is loud. drink the cool-aid, go straight to the bewst.
 
Texas240 said:
Ls donors are rather cheap in Dallas when you check around the salvage yards here. You could probably do two swaps with what you've put into your 16v by now since we've met back in 2008
Click to expand...
Probably even cheaper now?! Hate to hear lots of hard work, time, and money be lost- particularly to a chebbie engine, but they are cheap power. After making exhaust on a NA V8 swap, I could see how the turbo would get it in a better position.
 
hah he won't *make* money parting it out. That's at least part of the reason I've still got mine kicking around in the wings.
 
Failure mode looked pretty familiar. It didn't seal in one spot, looks like compression was leaking all the way out of the block underneath the intake manifold for a little bit until it spread over to the coolant passage.

20170917_100240_zpsfjc7i8ue.jpg


The steel was split along the fire ring crimp:
20170917_100303_zps10ooilvp.jpg



This was on #2. #3 was also starting to go the same way:
20170917_100243_zpsvkbvxoyj.jpg


Mark opn the block showing where it was leaking out to the outside:
20170917_100326_zpsbvwgankk.jpg


Everything looks pretty nice inside there, though. (Other than THAT, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?) No signs of detonation, bores like nice and pretty, all 4 cylinders look pretty even in terms of deposits and soot. Another MLS headgasket and valve cover gaskets ordered.
 
What surface RA are you having the head/block machined to before installing these things? They require a VERY flat surface to function correctly. No where near as forgiving as traditional gaskets.
 
I noticed that the short headbolts on the intake short broke loose a little bit easier than the rest of the long ones. I did the same tightening procedure on all of them. Maybe I'll try tightening them a tiny bit more this time?

I didn't have a specific RA. I did tell the machine shop that I was using an MLS, they seemed to know exactly what I was talking about. The decked the block back when I first got it from the junkyard, they also shaved the head lightly. They both look smoother than 'normal', I'd am just assuming they did it appropriately?

Traditional gaskets need a rough surface to latch into mechanically, the MLS doesn't need it. It does look shiny around the fire rings, and to my untrained eye it sort of looks like it has been slid between moving surfaces which wore at it some. It's looked like that before when I've taken it apart, either with a failed HG or not.

ANd to the above question - yes, that is the belt I'm using. Blue Kevlar 850 belt used with the Yoshifab T-belt tensioner kit.
 
thx! :) ordered!

Hm.. i would just try a genuine headgasket.. and watch if it happens also with it.. didnt you have some troubles with much adv. ignition?
 
There was the broken wristpin, not sure what really caused that, might have been ignition advance, but I think it was also likely due to Wiseco supplying the 'turbo 16V' pistons with lightweight wristpins. Which are thinner than stock. Not really a place you want to be saving a little bit of weight when you're pushing 100 hp per cylinder (or close). When I rebuilt it I used extra stout wristpins.

I just have a suspicion that a regular HG would last an even shorter time. And regular HG's don't have gentle failure modes. The MLS fails under high boost, but will still seal and drive pretty normally when driven gently. Not blowing the fire ring out and then running on three cylinders and quickly chuffing all the coolant out the tailpipe.
 
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