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Coolant tank alternatives

DiverDonny

New member
Joined
Aug 8, 2012
Location
Jervis Bay, NSW
Has anybody changed out the stock coolant tank on a redblock? It looks pretty awful in my opinion and brings down what could otherwise be a nice engine bay in a lot of cars. I'm thinking of colour-coding it the same colour as the body and leaving something like an inch-wide strip to use as a sight-glass for coolant level. Has anyone done something similar or replaced it altogether with another nice metal unit? Cheers
 
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S13 Silvia Ebay expansion tank, has a level indicator, 1.1bar cap and the overflow is, well it is what it is. I made up a bracket that hold the FPR, tank, overflow catch, and PCV catch.
 
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Google found

1983_Volvo_242_Turbo_GLT_Brick_Homologation_Coupe_For_Sale_Engine_Bay_resize.jpg
 
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The various Volvo coolant tanks are the best coolant tanks in the world. They are the default option of the coolant tank world. Better builders everywhere use them. I've used them on Saab V4s, 900s, Opels, Capris, Mitsubishis, and even my 6,2 diesel van.. Seen and supplied them for use on various VW and Audi projects...

Get a clean/new one. Run some pretty colored coolant...problem solved.
 
The various Volvo coolant tanks are the best coolant tanks in the world. They are the default option of the coolant tank world. Better builders everywhere use them. I've used them on Saab V4s, 900s, Opels, Capris, Mitsubishis, and even my 6,2 diesel van.. Seen and supplied them for use on various VW and Audi projects...

Get a clean/new one. Run some pretty colored coolant...problem solved.

the pretty colored coolant is the lynchpin for the whole thing.
 
Rivet the slide-in bracket for the 240TIC/water cooled turbo style onto a sturdy fan shroud if going e-fan and put a drain for the radiator/lower hose Ted in and enjoy being able to lift the whole assembly in and out just by unbolting the radiator top brackets without making a mess. Granted you can drain the block if the block drain isn't clogged and then leave the lower hose on the radiator and lift the rad out with the lower hose on it to try to keep it clean too.

Or use the 140 round one that lasts a long time and is very compact?
 
i'd stick with the stock ones too. But thats just me. Good quality, no hassle fit, looks good enough when clean and available with sensors on some models so you get a low coolant warning.

In Sweden you can get weld-on threaded filler neck pieces from aluminium if you want to make your own and retain stock cap (which is good and easy to source if one gets lost or breaks far away from home)

Also, when fitting a new one, either Volvo or something else, mount in at the correct height. Mounting a reservoir lower or higher changes a lot. Mount it low enough and you'll never have enough coolant in the engine while the reservoir indicates 'full'. So be careful.
 
i spent a bunch of time trying to find a good aftermarket coolant tank fit for my engine bay.

in the end i found out that it was easier and cheaper to get a new Volvo one and scavenge the right mount from the pick and pull. It also means i get to use all factory hoses and what not.
 
The various Volvo coolant tanks are the best coolant tanks in the world. They are the default option of the coolant tank world. Better builders everywhere use them. I've used them on Saab V4s, 900s, Opels, Capris, Mitsubishis, and even my 6,2 diesel van.. Seen and supplied them for use on various VW and Audi projects...

Get a clean/new one. Run some pretty colored coolant...problem solved.

At first I thought you were joking, but then I thought you might actually be serious. I've seen them used a lot.

Moved to showroom. Not a performance topic. ;-)
 
Hmmmm. Would there be interest in alum resavoirs? I'm getting close to putting the drag far away for a bit and this could be a perfect re-intro back into making things
 
Hmmmm. Would there be interest in alum resavoirs? I'm getting close to putting the drag far away for a bit and this could be a perfect re-intro back into making things

I'd be interested! Especually since I could tap threads in it and add a sight tube super easily, unless you want to incorporate something like that into the design. Thanks for the good replies and ideas everyone.
 
I've been considering converting my riciest car to a Volvo pressure tank setup because it's got a cracked head/bad head gasket that blows bubbles and displaces coolant into the overflow tank that never gets pulled back in. If it was Volvo style I'd never have even noticed the head gasket issue, it'd just work. Before the last year or so I always looked at euro cooling systems with disdain, however I've come to appreciate the positive aspects of them. +1 for a clean one with nice green coolant and no rust :p -1 for converting to overflow style which oxygenates the coolant more than the Volvo style.
 
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